May 24, 2014

Talikoti fort ruins

Talikoti, this little town is has an important place in history of South India. January 26, 1565, in the battle at Talikoti between Vijayanagar and Deccan Sultanates resulted in collapse of Vijayanagara empire. The battle occurred on the plains between Rakkasgi and Tangadgi villages on the left bank of river Krishna in the present day Bijapur district. The much larger Vijayanagara army lead by Aliya Rama Raya was vanquished by the Muslim forces lead by Ali Adil Shah. After the battle, Muslim soldiers looted and killed hundreds of thousands of defenseless Hindus. Talikoti battle was one of the worst in South Indian history.

November 26, 2013
Talikoti is situated on the left bank of Doni, a tributary of river Krishna. While most of the fort is destroyed and walls have vanished, few bastions and walls remain to be seen. Originally the fort had two rings of defense, inner fort and outer fort. While most of outer fort has vanished, some part of inner fort known as Raj Vaadhe remains. This is the gateway to the inner fort.

The gateway is flanked by large bastions.

The courtyard was a busy place.. plenty of youngsters hanging around doing nothing in particular. I inquired about the fort but received an answer that nothing much remains to be seen. I asked them to show me whatever they knew of. We start with Shiva Bhavani temple, opposite the fort entrance. The temple, though an ancient shrine is simple modern structure. A 3' diameter grinding stone is said to be an ancient one.

My guides- second and third from left. One of them is Santosh Chaudary, I cannot recall the other name.

That's the palace building, everything in ruins however, some parts of it has been let out to Khadi Kendra.

The buildings are made of stone slabs typical to this area. These stones are available aplenty in the neighboring Gulbarga district. In fact entire forts have been built with this stone, example Malkhed fort. The doorway is said to be original, sadly its stripped off wood and metal fittings.

These ancient structure of stones might have protected the interior from the harsh summer heat.

Ancient wooden beams and columns. I did not venture too deep inside, not very hygienic in there. This place is in a sad state, some parts are outright filthy.

A large well concealed by grass and thorny bushes.

My hosts take me to another ancient temple, the Garbhagudi is lower than Sabha Mantap level. Though painted the columns are pretty ancient. The deity, Shivalinga is an ancient one and opposite was a black stone Basavanna. At one corner of the temple was a pile of ancient sculptures.

Our hosts at their favorite hangout, next to Shiva Bhavani temple. One of the members here suggested me to see another shrine called Doni Raja temple. Only school boys could be accompanying me there. I thank Satosh and his friend and say bye.

At the fort entrance we meet an elderly resident, a priest at Shiva Bhavani temple.

Doni Raja temple is part of the outer fort, in fact it is on the banks of the river Doni. The bastion seen here is one of the few remaining outer fort bastions.

The temple is ancient, architecture is similar to mosques of northern Karnataka. Many ancient temples are built in this style in Bidar, Bijapur, Gulbarga, Yadgir and Raichur districts.

This is a subterranean temple just behind the 'blue' temple. The boys said there's a tunnel start here. Must be an ancient escape route.

Here's the gang which accompanied me to Doni Raja temple. I thank them and said bye. Liely bunch :)

My next destination was Budhihal. As we exit Talikoti town, we had to go across Doni river. We stopped on the bridge to get a glimpse of remains of outer fort wall.

The day was not normal at Talikoti, businesses were closed as a protest against bad connecting roads. Talikoti streets were deserted, even buses stopped outside town limits. Its true, roads are in bad state in these parts. The same day our journey from Rajan-Kollur to Hunasgi was tiring.. bad roads and heavy traffic was a deadly dangerous combination for smaller vehicles. Hope the protest bore some positive effect.

Talikoti coordinates: 16°28'19"N   76°18'39"E
.........

No comments: