Cave temple and tourist bungalow ruins

This rock-cut shrine is part of the wide cluster behind the queen's bath house, the cluster which includes Chandrashekara Devastana, Saraswati Devastana and Octagonal water pavilion. It's a couple of minute's walk from Saraswati Devastana which sits atop an outcrop. While there are boards calling it 'cave temple' it is marked as 'Rathi temple' on Google Maps.

While most rock-cut shrines are at ground level or above it, this one is below the ground level. Looks like the builders excavated to reach the sandstone rock's base and built retaining walls to keep dirt in place.

A board close to the temple describes the cave temple in two lines. Then it describes the ruins of a guest house next to the cave temple:

ಗುಹಾಂತರ ದೇವಾಲಯವು ಮಹಾನವಮಿ ದಿಬ್ಬದ ಪೂರ್ವಕ್ಕೆ, ಅಷ್ಟಭುಜ ಸ್ನಾನಗೃಹದ ಉತ್ತರಕ್ಕೆ ಸಮೀಪದಲ್ಲಿ ಕಂಡುಬರುತ್ತದೆ. ಉತ್ತರಾಭಿಮುಖವಾಗಿರುವ ಈ ಗುಹಾಲಯವು ನೆಲಮಟ್ಟದಿಂದ ಸ್ವಲ್ಪ ಕೆಳಭಾಗದಲ್ಲಿ ನಿರ್ಮಿತವಾಗಿದೆ. ಇದು ಹಂಪಿಯಲ್ಲಿಯೇ ಏಕೈಕ ಗುಹಾಂತರ ದೇವಾಲಯವಾಗಿದೆ. ಈ ದೇವಾಲಯದ ಮುಂದಿನ ಪ್ರದೇಶದಲ್ಲಿ ಉತ್ಪನನ ನಡೆಸಿ ಆಡಳಿತ ಕಛೇರಿ, ದರ್ಬಾರ್ ಹಾಲ್, ವಾಸಗೃಹ ಮತ್ತು ಒಂದು ಭೋಜನ ಶಾಲೆಯೊಂದಿಗೆ ಪೂರ್ವಾಭಿಮುಖವಾಗಿ ಸರಣಿ ಶೌಚಾಲಯಗಳು ಬೆಳಕಿಗೆ ಬಂದಿವೆ. ದರ್ಬಾರ್ ಹಾಲ್ನ ಈಶಾನ್ಯ ಮೂಲೆಯಲ್ಲಿ ಒಂದು ಪ್ರವೇಶ ಮಹಾದ್ವಾರವಿದ್ದು, ಹೊರಗೆ ಒಂದು ಕುದುರೆ ಲಾಯವಿದೆ. ಈ ಕಟ್ಟಡಗಳ ಸಮೂಹವು ವಿದೇಶಿ ಬರಹಗಳನ್ವಯ ಪ್ರವಾಸಿ ಅತಿಥಿಗೃಹ ಆಗಿರುವ ಸಾಧ್ಯತೆ ಇದ್ದು, ಸನೀಹದಲ್ಲಿಯೇ ಎರಡು ಪ್ರಮುಖ ಮಹಾದ್ವಾರಗಳಾದ ಶೃಂಗಾರದ ಹೆಬ್ಬಾಗಿಲು ಮತ್ತು ಸೋಮವಾರದ ಬಾಗಿಲುಗಳು ಕಂಡುಬರುತ್ತವೆ.

ಅರಮನೆಗಳು ಎಲ್ಲಾ ಪ್ರದೇಶಗಳಲ್ಲಿದ್ದರೂ, ಶ್ರೇಷ್ಠರ ಅರಮನೆ ಆವರಣ ಮತ್ತು ಟಂಕಸಾಲೆಯ ಆವರಣದಲ್ಲಿರುವ ಅರಮನೆಗಳು ಮುಖ್ಯವಾಗಿದ್ದು, ಅವುಗಳ ರಚನಾ ಶೈಲಿಯು ಎಲ್ಲಾ ಅರಮನೆಗಳ ರಚನಾ ಶೈಲಿಯನ್ನು ಪ್ರತಿನಿಧಿಸುತ್ತವೆ. ಈ ಕಟ್ಟಡ ಸಮುಚ್ಚಯದಲ್ಲಿ ರಾಜರ ವಂಶಸ್ಥರು, ಶ್ರೇಷ್ಠರು ಅಥವಾ ಮುಖ್ಯ ಅತಿಥಿಗಳು ವಾಸಮಾಡಿರಬಹುದೆಂದು ಅವುಗಳ ವಿಸ್ತಾರತೆ ಮತ್ತು ರಚನಾ ಶೈಲಿಯನ್ನು ಆಧರಿಸಿ ತರ್ಕಿಸಲಾಗಿದೆ.

The Cave Temple is found to the east of Mahanavami Dibba, near the Octagonal Bath. This north-facing temple is slightly below the ground level and is the only cave temple in Hampi. In the front area of this temple, during the archaeological excavation a complex of structures consisting, an administrative block, a durbar hall, a royal residence and a Bhojana shala with series of toilets facing east. It has an entrance at durbar hall through a north-eastern entrance which also has a horse stables. Near by there are the two entrances of Sringarada Hebbagilu and Somavarada Bagilu. this could be the guest house for dignitaries visiting the great city as explained by foreign chronicles.

Though there are palaces in the entire region of Hampi, the palaces found in Noblemen's Quarters and Mint Area are prominent. Its architecture style resembles that of the other palaces. Based on the architectural style and its large proportions, it is believed to be the living quarters of the noblemen, royal family and their guests.

The north facing rock-cut temple has just two chambers. The outer doorway and walls are devoid of any decorative sculptures. However the sculptors have provided a wide overhang to prevent rainwater entry.

This is the north facing sanctum. Inside you can see the pedestal which is devoid of deity. There's a touch of decor around the doorframe, and on ceiling is divided into three sections just like rock-cut shrines at Badami and Aihole. I feel this was a Jaina Basadi or a shelter used by Jaina monks.

Due to its simplicity there's nothing much to see. We step out and check the yard in front. On the left is a platform, probably a natural rock with a leveled surface. 

We walk towards the guest house ruins. The neighboring rock formation is granite on which steps have been carved. On the top is a structure made of granite blocks and mortar. I'm not sure about the purpose of that structure, if it was a shelter or a water tank. Anyhow, at the base of the rock is a smaller structure which is a chamber connected to underground water canals. Hampi being an advanced city of it's time had a huge population and there was a need for fresh water, not just residents but also for visitors, animals like horses, cattle, camels and elephants. Hence the city has a network of water tanks, paviliosn and canals.

We found more such chambers and water tanks.

A glimpse of the palace ruins from ground level in dim light. I wanted to explore the ruins but fading light and thorny shrubs dissuaded me. Perhaps the exploration is for another day.

As we walk towards the octagonal water pavilion, I noticed ruins of a gateway. Again the path towards it was filled with thorny plants so dropped the idea of reaching it and decided to head back to my car and then go towards Bhojana Shala.

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Agasi and Kuparama Vatika, Hospete-Hampi road

Hampi being a wealthy capital of Vijayanagara kingdom surely had satellite towns around it. Malapanagudi has been identified as one of the prosperous places. The village has two gateways, one on the eastern end and other at the western end. During my first visit here in 1996, I remember these gateways weren't isolated, meaning they were part of Hosapete-Hampi road, traffic used to pass through these gateways. Sometime between then and few years ago, the gateways were marked protected monuments and isolated.

A board has been posted at the eastern gateway with below description:

ಈ ಅಗಸಿ ಅಥವಾ ದ್ವಾರ ಬಾಗಿಲು ಹೊಸಪೇಟೆ-ಹಂಪಿ ರಸ್ತೆಯಲ್ಲಿರುವ ಮಲಪನಗುಡಿ ಗ್ರಾಮದಲ್ಲಿದೆ. ಗ್ರಾಮವು ಐತಿಹಾಸಿಕ ಪ್ರಸಿದ್ಧತೆಯನ್ನು ಪಡೆದ ಗ್ರಾಮವಾಗಿದೆ. ಈ ಗ್ರಾಮದಲ್ಲಿ ಪ್ರಮುಖವಾಗಿ ಮಲ್ಲಿಕಾರ್ಜುನ ದೇವಾಲಯ ಹಾಗೂ ಊರಿನ ಸರಹದ್ದಿನಲ್ಲಿರುವ ಸೂಳೆಬಾವಿ ಅಥವಾ ಕೂಪರಾಮ ಬಾವಿ ಮತ್ತು ದ್ವಾರಬಾಗಿಲುಗಳು ಪ್ರವಾಸಿಗರ ಆಕರ್ಷಣೀಯ ಕೇಂದ್ರಗಳಾಗಿವೆ.
ಪ್ರಸ್ತುತದಲ್ಲಿ ಮಲಪನಗುಡಿ ಗ್ರಾಮವು ಚಿಕ್ಕ ಹಳ್ಳಿಯಾಗಿದ್ದರೂ, ವಿಜಯನಗರ ಕಾಲದಲ್ಲಿ ಇದು ಬಹು ಮುಖ್ಯ ಪಾತ್ರವಹಿಸಿತ್ತೆನ್ನಲಾಗಿದೆ.
ಈ ದ್ವಾರ ಬಾಗಿಲು ಪಶ್ಚಿಮದಿಂದ ಬರುವ ವ್ಯಾಪಾರಿಗಳು ಹಾಗೂ ಯಾತ್ರಾರ್ಥಿಗಳಿಗೆ ವಿಜಯನಗರ ಪಟ್ಟಣ ಪ್ರವೇಶಿಸುವ ಪ್ರಮುಖ ಹೆಬ್ಬಾಗಿಲಾಗಿ ಪರಿಗಣಿಸಲ್ಪಟ್ಟಿತ್ತು ಎಂಬ ಅಭಿಪ್ರಾಯಗಳಿವೆ. ಅಂಥ ಬೃಹತ್ ದ್ವಾರವನ್ನು ಇಂದಿಗೂ ಕಾಣುತ್ತೇವೆ. ಮಲ್ಲಿಕಾರ್ಜುನ ಗುಡಿಯಲ್ಲಿರುವ ಕ್ರಿ.ಶ.೧೪೧೨ರ ಕಾಲಾವಧಿಗೆ ಸಂಬಂಧಿಸಿದ ಶಾಸನವು ರಾಜಧಾನಿ ಪಟ್ಟಣಕ್ಕೆ ಪ್ರವೇಶ ಪಡೆಯುವ ಈ ದಾರಿಯನ್ನು ಮಹಾಪಥ (ಹೆದ್ದಾರಿ) ಎಂದು ಉಲ್ಲೇಖಿಸಿದೆ. ದ್ವಾರದ ಸಮೀಪದಲ್ಲಿ ನಿರಂತರವಾಗಿ ಬರುವ ಅಗಣಿತ ಸಂಖ್ಯೆಯ ಜನಮಾನ್ಯರಿಗೂ ಮತ್ತು ವ್ಯಾಪಾರಿಗಳಿಗೂ ಅರವಟಿಗೆ ಅನುಕೂಲಕ್ಕಾಗಿ ಮಾಳಿಗೆ ಕೂಪರಾಮನ ಬಾವಿಯನ್ನು ನಿರ್ಮಿಸಿರುವ ಬಗೆಗೆ ದೀರ್ಘವಾಗಿರುವ ವಿವರಗಳು ದಾಖಲಾಗಿದ್ದುಂಟು. ಇದೇ ರೀತಿಯ ಮತ್ತೊಂದು ದ್ವಾರಬಾಗಿಲು ಗ್ರಾಮದ ಪೂರ್ವಭಾಗದಲ್ಲಿದೆ.

This gateway, at the Malapanagudi village on the Hospet-Hampi road, is of historical significance. The Mallikarjuna Temple, the Sulebavi / Kuparama Well and entrance gateways are the main attractions of this village.
Though today Malapanagudi presents itself as a small village, it played a very important role during the Vijayanagara period. This impressive gateway, on the west, provided vital access to Vijayanagara. Travelers and merchants entered the kingdom through this gate which can still be seen. Inscriptions dating back to 1412 CE in the Mallikarjuna temple liken the passage through this gate to a highway. They also state that a tank was constructed near this massive gate. It is evident that an impressive amount of infrastructure was built to accommodate and to provide comfort to the large number of travelers and merchants to Vijayanagara This impressive tank, the Sulebavi / Kuparama well is one such example. On the east side of the village there is a similar gateway.

Across the road is another monumental well which is octagonal in plan and has steps descending into it. This was made for traveler's convenience. Vijayanagara kings made sure travelers had sufficient resting places which had shelters, fresh water wells and trees. I remember seeing such shelters and wells even in a far flung place in Cuddapah district. Since Krishnadevaraya was closely connected to Tirumala, the administration that time had constructed mantapas and wells on Hampi-Thirumala route.

A board planted close to the describes the well as follows:

ಇದು ವಿಜಯನಗರ ಕಾಲದ ಪುರಾತನ ಬಾವಿಯಾಗಿದೆ. ಹೊಸಪೇಟೆ-ಹಂಪಿ ರಸ್ತೆಯಲ್ಲಿರುವ ಮಲಪನಗುಡಿ ಗ್ರಾಮವು ಐತಿಹಾಸಿಕ ಪ್ರಸಿದ್ಧತೆಯನ್ನು ಪಡೆದ ಗ್ರಾಮವಾಗಿದೆ. ಈ ಗ್ರಾಮದಲ್ಲಿ ಪ್ರಮುಖವಾಗಿ ಮಲ್ಲಿಕಾರ್ಜುನ ಗುಡಿ ಹಾಗೂ ಊರಿನ ಸರಹದ್ದಿನಲ್ಲಿರುವ ಸೊಳೆಬಾವಿ ಅಥವಾ ಕೂಪರಾಮ ಬಾವಿಯು ಪ್ರವಾಸಿಗರ ಆಕರ್ಷಣೀಯ ಕೇಂದ್ರಗಳಾಗಿವೆ.
ಈ ಬಾವಿಯ ಪ್ರಾಚೀನತೆಗೆ ಸಂಬಂಧಿಸಿದಂತೆ ಹೇಳುವುದಾದರೆ ಕ್ರಿ.ಶ. ೧೪೧೨ರ ಕಾಲಾವಧಿಗೆ ಸಂಬಂಧಿಸಿದ ಶಾಸನವು ಕೆಲವು ಮಹತ್ವ ಸಂಗತಿಗಳನ್ನು ವಿವರಿಸುತ್ತದೆ. ಸಂಗಮ ವಂಶದ ದೇವರಾಯನ ಆಳ್ವಿಕೆ ಕಾಲದಲ್ಲಿ ಬುಳ್ಳನಾಯಕರ ಮಗ ಹೆಗ್ಗಡೆ ಸೋವಂಣ (ಸೋವಿದೇವ) ಬಿಸಿಲುಹಳ್ಳಿ ಕಣಿವೆ ಹಾಗೂ ಬುಡುವಲಿಯ ಕಣಿವೆ ಕೂಡುವ ದಾರಿಯಲ್ಲಿ ಅರವಟಿಗೆಯನ್ನು ನಿರ್ಮಿಸಿ ಮಾಳಿಗೆ ಬಾವಿಯನ್ನು ಮಾಡಿಸಿ ಆ ಅರವಟಿಗೆ ಯಾವಾಗಲೂ ಇರುವಂತೆ ಹಾಗೂ ಬಾವಿ ಶಿಥಿಲವಾದರೆ ಜೀರ್ಣೋದ್ದಾರ ಮಾಡಲು ಬ್ರಾಹ್ಮಣರಿಗೆ ಕೆಲವು ದತ್ತಿಗಳನ್ನು ನೀಡಿರುವ ಕುರಿತ ಮಾಹಿತಿಗಳು de ಶಾಸನದಲ್ಲಿ ದಾಖಲಾಗಿರುವುದುಂಟು.
ವಿಜಯನಗರ ಕಾಲದ ಪ್ರಾಚೀನ ರಸ್ತೆಯ ಪಕ್ಕದಲ್ಲೇ ಇರುವ ಈ ಬಾವಿಯನ್ನು ರಸ್ತೆಯಲ್ಲಿ ಹಾದುಹೋಗುವ ಪ್ರಯಾಣಿಕರ ದಾಹ ತಣಿಸುವ ಉದ್ದೇಶದಿಂದ ನಿರ್ಮಿಲಾಗಿದೆ. ಈ ಬಾವಿಗೆ ಇಳಿಯಲು ಮೆಟ್ಟಿಲುಗಳಿದ್ದು, ಕಟ್ಟಡದಲ್ಲಿ ಎರಡು ಹಂತದ ವೃತ್ತಾಕಾರದ ಮೊಗಸಾಲೆಗಳಿವೆ. ಮಧ್ಯದ ಹಂತದಲ್ಲಿ ನಡೆದಾಡುವಂತೆ ನಿರ್ಮಿಸಲಾಗಿದೆ. ಬಾವಿಗೆ ಇಂಡೊ-ಇಸ್ಲಾಮಿಕ್ ಶೈಲಿಯ ಕಮಾನು ಆಕಾರದ ಬಾಗಿಲುಗಳಿವೆ. ಈ ಬಾವಿಗೆ ಹಳೆಯ ರಸ್ತೆಯ ಕಡೆ ಮತ್ತು ಮಂಟಪದ ದಿಕ್ಕಿನಲ್ಲಿ ಪ್ರವೇಶದ್ವಾರಗಳಿವೆ.

This ancient well of the Vijayanagara period is located in the Malapanagudi village. It has historical significance and is on the Hospet-Hampi road. and Sulebavi well (or Mallikarjuna temple and Kuparamabavi well) are at the outskirts of the village and are a tourist attraction.
The inscription of 1412 C.E. mentions the significance of this well. During the rule of Devaraya of the Sangama Dynasty, Heggode Sovana, son of Bullanayaka constructed small tanks halfway through Bisiluhalli peak and Buduvali peak. He also made donations to the Brahmanas to maintain these tanks.
This tank which is adjacent to the ancient road of Vijayanagara has been constructed to quench the thirst of travelers. There are steps to get into the well and there are two levels of circular corridors in the structure. The middle level has been constructed with a walkable path. The well has Indo-Islamic style arched entrances which face the old road and the mantapa.

The lintel beam has an inscription in Kannada script.

Builders of those times had built water related structures in octagonal shape. I wonder why. Three other structures which are octagonal are the two water pavilions and Queen's bath house in the ruins of Hampi. Another similar well is Pari Bowli situated between Bidar and Astur.

The well also had projecting platform so that one could draw water using rope and pots.

Sridhar and I had arrived here from Dharwad. This stop was a nice way to start Hampi tour. From here we move towards Kamalapur with an objective to visit Pattabhirama Devastana & Pushkarni,  the Domed gateway and two other monuments situated in the farm lands near Kamalapur.

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