Jul 6, 2019

Manjrabad fort

Among all the forts I've known, Manjarabad fort's plan is the most perfect i.e. geometrically. Its a eight pointed star when viewed from the sky. The fort was built for Tipu Sultan by French engineers, its construction was completed in CE 1792. The fort was strategically located on a hillock in the Western ghats on the highway connecting Kodagu and Mangaluru. It is said that when Tipu reached the fort for inspection, the place was shrouded in fog hence the name Manjarabad. Manju means fog or mist in Kannada and Abad is a term for city in Persian. Probably it was called Manjinaabad and with time it became Manjarabad.

May week 1
Plan for the weekend was to attend primary school classmates' gathering at a resort near Sakaleshpur. I would be meeting for the first time in 40 years. I had studied UKG, LKG, I Std and II Std with them at St. Charles Borromeo School, Bhadravathi. Actually I was a stranger to them at the moment. I'd spoken to just two people- Srinivas and Anil. I chose to hire a cab and Anil tagged along.

My-11 2019
We left Bangalore around 5-45 AM, 45 minutes behind our schedule. With all the toll gates on Bangalore-Hassan highway and two breaks, we averaged 55 kmph. We reached Sakaleshpur around 9-45, quick stop at Sakaleshwara Swamy Devasthana and then the short but slow drive to Manjarabad fort. It was around 10-10 AM when we took the concrete footpath going up the hillock. The concrete path makes way from a flight of steps.. it was about 12 minute trek to the fort entrance. Like most forts, the entrance has a zig zag path enclosed with high walls. That's the way we just came in, in the background are the jungles of Western Ghats.

These walls including the rampart walls are made of dressed granite blocks and lime mortar. I think the plastering is a recent addition. The fort entrance is on the right of the dead-end.

This is the outer entrance to the fort. The zig zag path and sloped walls reminds me of Mirjan fort which has no connection with French engineers. The wall opposite the entrance is a screen blocking direct view of the interior. At the corner on the top is a sentry nest with a good view of the zig zag path. The architects have created a marvelous monument indeed.

The arched and hooded entrance. The mural over the canopy is similar to a temple wall. The hood is a special requirement for this location because of heavy rains during monsoon.The passage through the walls is flanked by platforms which were definitely used as security office.

View from the passage, the floral arch and the inner walls. With so many walls, security system was elaborate here. The passage opens to a courtyard surrounded by high walls. The courtyard itself is divided into two parts by a thick wall creating another zig zag path which links the outer gateway to the inner gateway.

The passage as seen from the courtyard. On the right are small shelters, soldiers barracks.

I climb on to the side wall to get a better view of the courtyard. On the right is the outer gateway and on the left is the inner gateway. This space is a like a trap to stop anyone trying to enter or exit.

The inner walls are made of granite blocks, red bricks and lime mortar. On the right, the remains of an arch can be seen, its bricks arranged in an arch are exposed. The passage seen here links this courtyard to the inner fort.

Before entering the inner fort, I had a quick look at the outer gateway roof. These funnels help drain out water and prevent rain water from seeping into the walls. Even the wall tops are rounded to drain away water. From here we get a view of the rampart walls and one of the gun slots. On the right, there's a small projection with vents.. that's a sentry point where guards remained out of sight.

This is the passage to the inner fort, the floor slopes outwards to allow water flow. Either side are platforms which were probably used as inner security office and soldiers barracks. The passage is such that it does not allow direct view of the inner space.

The arch is made of red bricks. The core of the fort is enclosed by sixteen rampart walls which together form a eight-pointed star. All around the perimeter is a high and wide shoulder. The shoulder is hollow in some places, the space inside were barracks.

The 'star' if enclosed in a circle, will be 143 meters in diameter. Each of the outer walls are 26m long and 5m thick. The inner perimeter of the fort is 416m. The shoulder is 10m wide. At the center of the star is the cross-shaped well. Each of the arms 4m wide have steps descending into the well which is the only source of water.

Next to the well are two funny looking structures with sloped roof and single door. These are the entrances to two separate bunkers which were used as barracks, armory and stores. Wish I had the time to explore the innards.

View of the fort from the southeastern point. The entrance is on the right hand side where a group of people are seen. That group was here for a photo shoot.. newly engaged or newly wed couples were having themselves shot by professionals. It was amusing how the couples were being directed by the cameramen-director to pose.. walk casually, smile, jump, etc. etc. Madness!

From the same point, I turned around for a view of the outer wall and surprised to see the moat. Yes, forts do have moats but at this height is something. And it runs all around except at the entrance. What was the source of water for this moat? The rain water which drained out from the for itself is a possibility because of the amount of rainfall here.

View of the rampart walls and gun slots. The two young men on the wall were shooting pictures, as I know for almost the entire 30 minutes I spent here. Such are the people who wore of the plaster and exposed the bricks inside. When will our people learn to respect monuments.

This is the western side of the fort. The shoulder is hollow here, one can tell that by these funnels.

Such neat construction. They could stand the forces of Nature but not people's acts.

The bunker cover reminds me of Firozabad fort near Kalburgi. Inside that fort are structures with pyramid shaped roofs.

I went around the perimeter of the fort, an interesting tour it was. This is entrance passage, the roof is arched through the length. One has to admire the engineering of this fort though built by the evil-minded Tipu Sultan.

On the way our Anil pointed out n art work on the passage ceiling. It was this mural, plan of this fort clearly showing the moat, rampart walls with gun-slots and shoulder which runs along the perimeter. Brilliant.

I wish the fort caretakers and concerned authorities take steps to protect and preserve this monument.

Descending the hill was easy. At the base we had tender coconut water and headed towards Aroha's Eco Hill Resort the venue f our gathering.
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4 comments:

  1. Srinivas KharidhiJul 6, 2019, 7:15:00 AM

    Hi Sid... nice job man.. you literally took us around the Manjrabad Fort..
    Eagerly waiting for your next blog about our classmates’ meet at Arohas’.. cheers!!

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  2. This looks so interesting. Thanks for sharing Sid

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  3. Wonderful narration & beautiful photos as ever.You may consider writing for newspaper & magazine books.I was searching how to reach the place.I saw your story was by good chance.Pl write if it is a lonely place, if entrance tkts are sold, is the fort under ASI, is food sold,do buses go from Bangalore, Distance from Bangalore.I am eager to visit from Bangalore. I am concerned about safety.

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  4. Thank you, Srini. The post will be live next Saturday morning :)

    Nirdesh, its an interesting fort, you have to see it once.

    Soul, its not a lonely place, no tickets, there are plenty of shops at the base of the hill selling snacks and water. From Bangalore, go to Sakaleshpur and then take a rickshaw to Manjrabad fort. Have a good trip.

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