Sep 28, 2019

Ramthirth Pushkarni of Santhebennur

A visit to this historical tank was due several years. I'd driven countless times on Bangalore-Davangere road, a visit never materialized. Finally, it was on the itinerary of our Dharwad visit. Besides Santhebennur, we had plans to visit Kalleshwara Devasthana near Davangere and few temples between Haveri and Hangal.

July-25-2019
We left Bangalore early around 5-30 AM. This was our first drive on a highway in the New Wagon-R, I was still getting to understand the car's behavior at speeds over 90 kmph. We stopped at Chitradurga for breakfast and reached Santhebennur by 10-00 AM. Its a small town, the historical monument was easy to locate. Situated on the outskirts, its a peaceful place. There was the caretaker and his assistant besides few other visitors.

At the entrance is a board which reads as follows:
Musafirkhana and Honda
The large pond (Honda) has its sides veneered with granite steps. Out of eight towers at the cardinal points, only six are intact in various stages of preservation. The most striking feature of the pond is its ornate pavilion built on a square plinth with an arched entrance which has a flight of steps leading to the first tier. The first tier is an open pavilion with slender pillars at the periphery and austere railings in between. Towards the cardinal directions are elegant arched pavilions supported by heavy stone, Pushpa Potika, corbels. The second tier is repetition of the first one over which moderate eaves support a heavy parapet with slender minarets. The inter-spaces pierced with arches topped by foliate merlons. Two rows of elephants, swans and Gandaberundas (mythical twin headed bird) adore the pavilion. The ribbed dome jutting out at the center is topped by a final and its neck is decorated with lotus petals bordered by Guldastas. The Musafirkhana built on the western side as a spacious structure of granite having a large pillared hall with pointed arches probably as a prayer hall as well.

Wondering why the board doesn't state Honda and Musafirkhana?

It is said that Paleygar Kenga Hanumantappa Nayaka, ruler of Santhebennur under the Vijayanagar kings, built this Pushkarini in the XVI Century CE. The tank was built for the temple dedicated to Lord Rama hence it was called as Ramthirtha Pushkarni. The tower at the center of the tank is called Vasanta Mantapa was built to mark Kenga Hanumantappa’s victory over the Adil Shahis of Bijapur.

The construction is precise. Due to its superb design and workmanship the structure has stayed intact for centuries. Of course, efforts by ASI has preserved with wonderful monument.

The tank has totally 8 Mantapas. Five around the perimeter wall, two on its steps and one in the water. The grandest of all is the central Vasanta Mantapa.

Perhaps, its ten because one Mantapa on the steps is a double Mantapa.. each of the Mantapas can be accessed separately. Probably these two Mantapa were used to perform rituals.

The architecture is Vijayanagara as seen in many more tanks across Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh. After the great battle Rakkasgi-Tangadgi, the Muslim rulers modified many Hindu monuments by installing their symbols and designs. I think, the masonry atop this Mantapa is the modified version.

Some say that the Vasanta Mantapa as made to appear as though it was floating in water. It is said that Theppotsaava was held here. The deity is placed in a coracle with all the decoration and paddled around. Usually that's a evening ritual, oil lamps light up the place creating a dramatic effect.

A closer look at the crown of double-decker Mantapa.. brick and mortar. Of the nine Mantapas, six have crowns, the remaining three are flat topped.

Another view of the double-decker Mantapa. The arched building in the background is Musafirkhana, the guest house which was later added by Muslim rulers. They conveniently placed it between the temple and its tank, cutting out the temple's view completely. Now it looks as though the Musafirkhana and Pushkarni were built together. Perhaps, it won't be wrong to call it cultural invasion.

Pushpa poses with the monument.

In the background are two large trees, close to the tree on the left is Sri Rama Devasthana. Now you get how the new rulers inserted their guest house to cut off the temple's view? And, newspaper carrying an article on this place says there was religious harmony back then!!

View of the tank from northeast corner Mantapa. Every Mantapa is unique in design. Back then builders rarely built duplicates.

Pushpa hugs a pillar to get respite from the heat. Though it was cloudy, it was quite warm.

This is the northern Mantapa. The pillars have unique sculptures just the temples and Mantapas seen at Vijayanagara. Check out the mural work on the crown.

A pair of entwined serpents shown artistically. Every such face of every column carry images of Gods, warriors, animals, birds, floral or geometric forms.

Image of Lord Hanuman.. has to be present where Lord Rama is.

Lord Ganesha, the remover of obstacles has to be present. Vijayanagara temple builders must have standardized this design so that it helps educate people.. they get to see the different forms of life, flowers, creative designs, legendary characters, and puzzles too.

View of the tall Mantapa in the background of straight lines formed by steps. Amazing workmanship from stone dressers and masons laying them perfectly.

Having gone around the tank, we come to its main entrance.. this is where people entered the tank coming from Rama temple. The simple Mantapa is the caretaker's post, he gets a view of the entire place.

Besides the Pushkarni are these remains.. seems like a feeder tank. Rainwater must be flowing into this pit which was then fed to the Pushkarni. May be they were two two independent tanks.

Vijayanagara builders had their own water management technology. You can see some examples at Hampi like the Queen's bath and the Octagonal water pavilion.

Having seen the Pushkarni, we enter the Musafirkhana.
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14 comments:

  1. Great narration and pics! 👌👌

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  2. shashank.m.gowda.91@gmail.comOct 15, 2021, 1:46:00 PM

    really in detail explanation about the place.... Wondrfull mannn... keep up the good work...

    and most importantly, thanks a lottttt for the information...

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  3. Good post and nicely written. Keep up your hobby.

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  4. Lovely summary , thanks a ton. Nowhere I found the real mention of the who built it nor ASI cared to show the right name

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  5. ASI prefers to go with generic descriptions, often skipping hard facts. Well, politics to please a certain section.

    Thanks for reading & commenting :)

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  6. Great info.. it always feel good to know how our ancestors have created such wonders..

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  7. Right. This is one of the reasons to protect our heritage and pass on the knowledge to future generations.

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  8. Good post, well documented

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  9. We are traveling to Davangere tomorrow and I am hoping to visit the Pushkarni. As always before visiting any place in Karnataka I look up your blogs. Your blogs inspire me always. Thanks a lot for the posts .

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  10. Thank you, Aparna.
    Wishing you a pleasant trip to Davangere and hopefully to Santhebennur too.

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