Hidimba Devi Mandir, Manali

My trip to Kais, a village between Kullu and Manali, was decided in October. My tickets were booked in November, my onward journey would start on Nov-27th night. This was a business trip, so I did not really research on what to see. As planned, I left home Nov-27th night and reached Kais on Nov-28 11-30 AM. I went to straight to Dhagpo Shedrupling Monastery, met the senior monks who were so caring. I was happy to be working here and the monastery would be my home for the next 9 days. I got along well with the local team who have working here for past six months or so.

The monastery is situated on a mountain slope overlooking Beas river flowing through the valley and skyline was towering snow capped mountains. This was my first ever feel of Himalayas, the beauty was breathtaking, mesmerizing, and what not. Oh yes, I was yet to come in terms with the weather conditions.. the guest house did not have water heaters, I had to manage with the cold water.. which was really colllddd!!

The next day a team from Delhi arrived. We were expecting some material which arrived a day later i.e. Nov-30 and our work started immediately. The mountains cast their shadow into the valley as early as 3-30 pm, then the temperature starts dropping rapidly. By 5-30 it would be dark. To catch up with lost time, we worked as late as 10-30 in the freezing temperatures. The work was done on Dec-4th afternoon, the team Delhi left and I could relax. I planned to take the next day off, visit Manali and Shuru village. The local team's head Rajesh agreed to take me to Manali. Always good to have a local guide.

December 5, 2019
After planning the team's work for the day, Rajesh and I left Kais by 10-30 on a Honda bike. Kullu-Manali road runs in the valley along Beas river. That's the Himalayan way.. roads usually run parallel to rivers. It's been ages since I biked on a highway however, I was comfortable with Rajesh's riding. On the way, we stopped to see a bathhouse where one can bathe in sulfur-water from a geyser. The bath tanks were yellow tinted, the water was warm. Nature's wonders! We reached Manali by noon. We had to negotiate the narrow twisty winding climbing streets of the mountain town. For those roads the traffic was thick, lucky we were on a bike. As we approached our destination, buildings replaced tall coniferous trees, almost no sunlight reaching the road. It was 12-20 PM when we reached Hidimba Devi Mandir.

Having seen only south Indian temples, looking at this great wooden and stone structure was a completely new experience. It looked like a stack of pyramids.. Architecture of Himachal Pradesh is known as Kath-Kuni. Buildings are constructed of dressed stone blocks and wood. The combination is such that the buildings are earthquake proof.

Hidimba is a well known character from the legend Mahabharata. She's Bheema wife and her son's name is Ghatotkacha. Hidimba is considered as a Devi hence she's worshiped and temples dedicated to her.  A board planted near the temple described the temple as follows:
Almost hidden by giant Deodars on the outskirts of the village Dungri stands this wooden temple dedicated to goddess Hidimba. An inscription engraved on a wooden panel at the side of the entrance records that this temple was caused to be built by Raja Bahadhur Singh in the year corresponding to A.D. 1553. The sanctum is covered with three tiered roof constructed of narrow wooden planks, one over the other. The three lower ones are in the usual form projecting canopies, showing traces of wooden fringes here and there. A large metal umbrella, surrounded by a metal finial forming the fourth roof crowns the summit of the temple. On the three sides the temple is enclosed by a narrow verandah which is raised to a height of 12 feet above the ground. The facade and windows on each side of it are richly carved and present a handsome appearance while over the entrance is a wooden balcony. The quadruple wooden frame is ornamented with carvings of various deities and decorative devices such as knots, scrolls, plait-works, animal figures, pot-and-foliage, etc. Mahisasuramardini and a devotee with folded hands and Siva with Parvati on Nandi are shown on the right side at the base where as Durga, a devotee with folded hands Vishnu and Lakshmi on Garuda are shown on the left side. The figures of Ganesa is in the center of the lintel. On the beam above the lintel appears Navagraha panels. The upper most part is decorated with motifs of Buddhist characters in view of its historical and architectural importance the temple was declared protected as a monument of national importance vide notification no. P.4/4/67 dated 18.04.1967.

This is the back side of the temple. The temple's sides at the base is different but the upper parts are same on all sides. The first and second floors of the temple seems to have some kind of living quarters. The steep and low canopy keep out rain and snow and helps retain warmth inside the structure.

This is the other side. The walls are made of alternating layers of stone and wooden blocks. The corners have vertical wooden members as well. On the walls are several pairs of horns.. could be goat and other Himalaya species. Still curious of the upper floors.. are they the priest's home?

Closer look at one of the corners and walls. For a 500 year old structure, this is well maintained. If the wood is 500+ years old, then the trees from which the wood was obtained would have been another 100 to 150 years old. That's the power of plant life! Their lives go beyond their death!

 Four pairs of horns.. most likely Himalayan ibex horns.

More horns on display on the other side. Here's a head of deer as well.

The canopy on the other side. Amazing ancient carpentry.. columns, beams, window frames, shutters and roofs. Most of the wood would be Deodar since its the most common variety in these hills.

This is the front side of the temple. The facade is completely wooden. These are the intricate wooden sculptures described in the temple description. No photography inside the temple. As we pass through the low door, we step down and what we see is a small rock shelter. The shrine of Hidimba is in the shelter, attended by two priests. Rajesh and I stood to a side and tried to absorb the interior details. I did not see any staircase as such. It was so cold, even the wood was cold but definitely better than touching steel or glass.

Temple entrance as seen from the other side.  The facade is symmetrical but the details are unique. I took a few close up shots of the sculptures.

This seems like Brahma the creator of this universe.

This sculpture is in the middle of the top of the right hand side window frame. Turmeric and vermilion have been applied to the images, it must be one of the Trimurthy. Notice the carvings flanking it.

This spiral is eye-catching. It's a type of Swastik.

Wish I'd taken close up shots with the DSLR. Anyway, I was happy to have seen and touched the wonderful art work - salute the ancient artisans. Just beside the temple is a handsome stone sculpture of a roaring lion. Wish the lion was free from decoration.. would've been nice to see the bare sculpture.

Rajesh posing for a picture on a mound like rock next to the lion. This is how one needs to be dressed generally for December weather. Even this will not be of much help if one is riding a bike.

One last look at Hidimba Devi Mandir. From here we planned to see her son Ghatotkacha's shrine, just 100 meters from here. Like his father Bheema, Ghatotkacha was known for his strength and valor. Ghatotkacha fought on the Pandava's side in the Kurukshetra war, he was slain in the battle with Karna.

At the temple premises, tourists have options for being photographed riding a Himalyan Yaks or holding a white rabbit or attired in the local dresses. I just hope the animals are well cared for. Yak wool shawls are quite popular.

Vendors have costumes handy for adults and kids, they can dress up entire families, complete with a cane basket filled with flowers. Here's one such family looking for a nice spot for a photo shoot.

We made our way to Ghatotkacha shrine and then to Museum of Himachal Culture and Folk Art.
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