This temple was discovered while I researched historical places situated within Davangere District. It was my wish to visit this temple for more than a year. The opportunity came when I had to travel from Bangalore to Dharwad mid of February. Besides Neelagunda Bhimeshwara Devastana, I planned to visit two more temples close by- Kalleshwara Devastana, Halavugalu (Halavaglu) and Kalleshwara Devastana, Bagali. The itinerary for the day was to leave Bangalore early, visit these three temples and reach Hubli by 5PM to pickup Pushpa and then head to Dharwad.
February 16, 2020
The journey started around 3-30 AM, reached Davangere by 7-15. On Davangere-Harihar bypass road, I decided to visit our home deity. At Shamnur I left the highway, turned into Davangere and headed straight to Bathi Gudda which is off Davangere-Harihar road. By 7-30, I was in front of the temple. The air was cool, soft chanting flowing out of the temple, the ambiance was pleasant. The temple was open, morning pooja was in progress. I performed the customary washing, entered the temple and waited until the rituals were done. Yes, it felt nice to be seeing morning pooje. I had packed bread, cheese slices, tomatoes and cucumbers for the journey. I had sandwiches watching the sun rise over the paddy fields, feeling the cool breeze and the listening to Om Namah Shivaya from the temple. Nice way to start a day.
Done with breakfast, I resumed my journey.. at Harihar I found the road to Harappanahalli. The distance between Harihar and Neelagunda is about 32 kms. The two-lane state highway was in good condition. On the way I saw people walking, all bare foot, carrying bags. I guessed they were heading to attend some annual fair. There were hundreds of people, young & old, boys & girls, men & women, all were barefoot. Some had canes in their hands. Arrangements were made for rest, water and refreshments. At one point I stopped to get directions to Neelagunda from two elderly men who were also walking pilgrims. I learnt they were walking to Kottureshwara which is around 70 kms from Harihar. People from Ranebennur, Haveri and surrounding villages walked more than 100 kms. One has to admire their determination and belief.
I reached Neelagunda village by 9-45 AM. Bheemeshwara temple was a kilometer away, on the bank of an man made water tank situated next to a hillock. Looks like this tank and temple were made at the same time. I could lot of people washing and bathing in the water tank. All these people had taken a small diversion from their route to rest and refresh. What a lovely location! Wishing there were more trees planted along the road.
An ancient water level measuring system in the tank. The device has been modified to accommodate a let off valve to regulate the level during rainy season.
Situated on a isolated spot, the Trikutachala temple has a serene look. The eucalyptus and coconut trees add charm to the place. Minus the crowd this place will have a serene ambiance.
Within the temple premises is a small collection of hero-stones and inscription slabs. I was little disappointed because of the crowd and the clothes spread around the monument. Anyway, nothing much could be done about it.
A board planted at the entrance gate describes the temple as follows:
Bhimesvara Temple, Nilagunda
Nilagunda, known for its steatite (Soapstone) quarries, was an important village right from the times of Kalyana (Circa 12th Century).
The temple is constructed during the last quarter of the 11th Century A.D. under the rule of Chalukyas of Kalyana. The temple is in Vesara style. On the plan of the temple consist of three Garbhagrihas each with an Antarala on the north, west and south, opening on to the Sabhamandapa and Mukhamandapa on the east with lateral steps at the entrance, and shrine of Surya attached to the Mukhamandapa on the east. The walls hav projections and recesses decorated with Vesara turrets on double pilsters and with Dravida turrets on single pilaster. he western cella has its upper structure intact and as a whole it is Tritala Vesara Vimana. Each Tala is composed of composite Sala, Panjara and Kuta units. Under the Kirtimukha of each Sala are Siva as Nataraja, Maheshvara, etc. The Garbhagriha doorway is carved with five Sakhas and at the base are Saiva Dvarapalas flanked by female Chauri-bearers. Similarly the doorways of the northern Garbhagriha and the west Antarala are finely carved. The Sabhamandapa has four ornate pillars on the raised floor at the centre. Its interior niches accommodate sculptures of Ganesa, Mahishamardini, Saptamatrikas and seated Yaksha. A small bull is kept in front of the west Garbhagriha, in the Sabhamandapa.
There were at least a hundred people in the temple premises. Out of that crowd a bearded man appeared and told that photography is prohibited. He claimed that his officer has verbally instructed that shooting with a DSLR banned but mobile cameras were allowed. I inquired if that was given in writing. The man said it was written on the board, I checked the board - no such thing was written. In fact it clearly stated photography was allowed while smoking, littering and writing on the monument was banned. Wondering why ASI officers and their subordinates are afraid of DSLRs. Their methods are unfriendly and irritating. Anyway, I started shooting with my mobile camera.
This is the temple entrance. Unlike a typical Trikutachala, this temple is like a star. The entrance lobby is where the three Garbhagudi's axis meet. The three Garbhagudi's of the temple face east, south and north.
Flanking the entrance steps was a pair of imaginative four-legged creature and floral art. This is Hoysala art for sure.
The creature has body of an ox, legs seem to be lion's, elephant's head & trunk and peacock's feathers for a tail. The men astride these creatures must be Dwarapala ~ door keeper.
The walls directly ahead form the north facing Garbhagudi. The temple's Shikhara sits on the east-facing Garbhagudi.
On the temple walls are miniature Shikhara and columns. The lower portion of the structure has a layer of Kirthmukhas. Notice the large column on the right. Its section is primarily square. The detailing is awesome.
I go around the temple in clockwise direction. The Kirthimukha aligned in different angles can be seen here. This pattern is same all around the temple. Not sure what the wall seen in the background form.
The profile of the east-facing Garbhagudi with its full Shikhara. Somehow the temple is well preserved except for minor acts of vadalism. I'm not sure if the structure was reassembled in the recent times by ASI.
This is the south-facing Garbhagudi. The roof canopy is quite an elegant piece of work. The lines running along the edge are perfectly parallel and aligned. Amazing workmanship.
Lets check out the Kirthimukha layer. The object is a head of an imaginary creature with powerful jaws and strong teeth. The upper jaw is curved and lower is straight. Together they look like rack and pinion. A tongue as long as the upper jaw sticks out from its throat. I'm not sure what it represents or its significance.
This is another form of Kirtimukha. A fierce looking face with its popping eyes, bared fangs and a long pair of mustache. Flanking the Kirtimukha is a pair of standing creatures which have lion's body and man's head.. the opposite of Lord Narasimha. The creatures are also meant to exude a fierce or fearsome look. On the left is another creature with a lion's body and elephant head. Wonderful imagination. Our fictional creatures must've inspired a lot of comic book artists in the western countries.
A closer look at 'jaw Kirtimukha'. In the profile view, the foremost tooth is clearly a canine and the rest are incisor and molar teeth. Adjoining the jaw is a set of finely carved arcs and circular grooves. It seems to be incomplete work. We'll find out as we go around the temple.
Here's a well carved Kirtimikha. The decorative jewelry is stylish. The pattern wouldn't be easy to carve. The lines are fine and the string of beads is superbly made. Unfortunately the heads are missing from the lions' bodies which must've been human heads.
Here's a corner Kirtimikha right next to a regular one. There was no limit to creativity of ancient sculptors.
I'll close this post with a look at the columns, two are part of walls while the middle one is the junction where the two walls meet. The walls are great examples of geometric design.. perfectly straight & parallel lines and right angle corners. If one wants to replicate the same with today's technology, god knows how many millions would the machine, fixtures, tools, tool posts and cutting bits would cost. Wondering how ancient people achieved this precision.
this article will continue in Bhimeshwara Devastana, Neelagunda - part 2.
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February 16, 2020
The journey started around 3-30 AM, reached Davangere by 7-15. On Davangere-Harihar bypass road, I decided to visit our home deity. At Shamnur I left the highway, turned into Davangere and headed straight to Bathi Gudda which is off Davangere-Harihar road. By 7-30, I was in front of the temple. The air was cool, soft chanting flowing out of the temple, the ambiance was pleasant. The temple was open, morning pooja was in progress. I performed the customary washing, entered the temple and waited until the rituals were done. Yes, it felt nice to be seeing morning pooje. I had packed bread, cheese slices, tomatoes and cucumbers for the journey. I had sandwiches watching the sun rise over the paddy fields, feeling the cool breeze and the listening to Om Namah Shivaya from the temple. Nice way to start a day.
Done with breakfast, I resumed my journey.. at Harihar I found the road to Harappanahalli. The distance between Harihar and Neelagunda is about 32 kms. The two-lane state highway was in good condition. On the way I saw people walking, all bare foot, carrying bags. I guessed they were heading to attend some annual fair. There were hundreds of people, young & old, boys & girls, men & women, all were barefoot. Some had canes in their hands. Arrangements were made for rest, water and refreshments. At one point I stopped to get directions to Neelagunda from two elderly men who were also walking pilgrims. I learnt they were walking to Kottureshwara which is around 70 kms from Harihar. People from Ranebennur, Haveri and surrounding villages walked more than 100 kms. One has to admire their determination and belief.
I reached Neelagunda village by 9-45 AM. Bheemeshwara temple was a kilometer away, on the bank of an man made water tank situated next to a hillock. Looks like this tank and temple were made at the same time. I could lot of people washing and bathing in the water tank. All these people had taken a small diversion from their route to rest and refresh. What a lovely location! Wishing there were more trees planted along the road.
Bhimesvara Temple, Nilagunda
Nilagunda, known for its steatite (Soapstone) quarries, was an important village right from the times of Kalyana (Circa 12th Century).
The temple is constructed during the last quarter of the 11th Century A.D. under the rule of Chalukyas of Kalyana. The temple is in Vesara style. On the plan of the temple consist of three Garbhagrihas each with an Antarala on the north, west and south, opening on to the Sabhamandapa and Mukhamandapa on the east with lateral steps at the entrance, and shrine of Surya attached to the Mukhamandapa on the east. The walls hav projections and recesses decorated with Vesara turrets on double pilsters and with Dravida turrets on single pilaster. he western cella has its upper structure intact and as a whole it is Tritala Vesara Vimana. Each Tala is composed of composite Sala, Panjara and Kuta units. Under the Kirtimukha of each Sala are Siva as Nataraja, Maheshvara, etc. The Garbhagriha doorway is carved with five Sakhas and at the base are Saiva Dvarapalas flanked by female Chauri-bearers. Similarly the doorways of the northern Garbhagriha and the west Antarala are finely carved. The Sabhamandapa has four ornate pillars on the raised floor at the centre. Its interior niches accommodate sculptures of Ganesa, Mahishamardini, Saptamatrikas and seated Yaksha. A small bull is kept in front of the west Garbhagriha, in the Sabhamandapa.
This is the temple entrance. Unlike a typical Trikutachala, this temple is like a star. The entrance lobby is where the three Garbhagudi's axis meet. The three Garbhagudi's of the temple face east, south and north.
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Nice description of the wonderful architectural monument of India.
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