Sep 26, 2020

Madhukeshwara Devastana, Banavasi - part 2

...continued from Madhukeshwara Devastana, Banavasi - part 1.

Madhukeshwara temple complex is a group of dozen temples. The main temple being dedicated to Madhukeshwara and the next most important is Parvati temple. These two temples are side by side. Inside the main temple is a 7' tall Nandi idol which is positioned in such a way that its left eye looks at the main deity i.e the honey colored Shivalinga and the right eye looks at Parvati's idol. The remaining sub-shrines are built around the premises. One of the sub-shrines is a box-like structure which houses the idol of Shiva and Parvati astride Nandi. While Madhukeshwara and Parvati temples are Chalukyan creations, these smaller structures seems to be built during Vijayanagara / Sonda king's rule.

Coming to the these three temples, these are brick and mortar structures. Their arches are different- rectangular, simple arch and pointed arch. The architecture of the pointed arch is Indo Sarcenic, which was in practice from Vijayanagara times. The shrine with rectangular door has seven little lamp-nests. Those nests add character to the facade. Every builder-artist had a unique idea.

This is the fourth largest sub-shrine. The lathe-turned columns seem to be from Chalukyan time. I did not venture inside.

Three more brick & mortar structures similar to the ones seen earlier. Their doorways are arched and has murals for decoration. Take a look at the crown of the temple on left hand side. Its the lotus emblem seen in the buildings of Bijapur built during Adil Shahi time. It looks like the rulers imposed elements of Islamic architecture on Hindu temples.

Now we are on the southern side of the complex. This is the profile of the main temple. The Shikhara is a narrow tall pyramid. Subsequent rulers have imposed their artworks over the original structure like the arched niche above the square stone window. The arch is brick & mortar work added during or post Vijayanagara time. Anyway, the proportions of the original structure is classic, very much a Chalukyan. The southern wall too is covered with pairs of Shivalinga & Nandi. It looks like the walls were painted white and ocher long time back, the colors have faded over time but holding on.

This twin temple is the third largest structure in this complex. It's two deities are Ganesha and Mahishamardini.

The twin temple as seen from the front. This is the east-facing door. The other door is on the northern side which faces one of the side entrances of the main temple.

The crown over the eastern door is brick & mortar work added on during Vijayanagara time. The Shikhara is similar to the main temple tower. The proportion is perfect.

The twin temple interior. Its hall is dominated by a central Mantapa formed by four turned pillars. This is the northern door which connect to the side entrance of Madhukeshwara temple.

On two of four column bases are inscriptions in Kannada. The inscriptions seem to be of Vijayanagara times.

Now to the most important item of this temple- Kallina Mancha ~ the stone cot. This artifact is placed in a shed with collapsible shutters, can be seen but cannot be touched. This ornate cot is an assembly of individual sculptures- four legs, one platform, four pillars and a canopy. Its an amazing piece of work, quite rare actually.  The only other stone cot I know of is at Sonda fort, about 40 kms northwest of Banavasi.

Photographing this monument is a circus. Of the seven shots, the two which cover the cot from top to bottom have been used here. The four columns which support the canopy are complex art works featuring four lions and elephants in each. The canopy's periphery is sloped and ribbed, like a temple's canopy. The flat surface has fifteen lotuses. All lotuses centers are hollow excepting the central one. Looks like the holes are through... wondering for what purpose. An electrician managed to fix a bulb holder into the canopy!

The main temple has its Dhwajastambha which is situated between the temple and the complex door. This is the pillar's stepped base. The step faces are covered with murals of Shivalinga ans Nandi, just the walls of the main temple.

We had to end our tour and move on. We had two more temples to visit and then reach Bhadravathi before dusk. On the way out I noticed this panel of extruded flowers. This piece of work is unique, can't recall seeing such work anywhere else.

Finally, we say bye to the two stone elephants which greet people to this historical temple. One must closely see the details, you'll be amazed by the imagination of the sculptors.

Across the street is a flight of steps which goes down to river Varada. The river blows in a tight semicircle before flowing in the northeasterly direction. We skipped it due to time constraint. While scanning the area, I noticed a place marked as Jain temple across the river. Also we missed seeing the other temples of Banavasi, especially Allama Prabhu Devastana. Banavasi is known for handicrafts manufacturing. Hopefully, I'll make another visit to catch up with the missed places.
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