Lower Shivalaya, Badami

Badami can be split into four major parts in a tourists perspective. The four parts are: 1. Southern hill which consists of four rock-cut temples. one natural cave, Arali Honda & fortifications atop the hill, 2. Agastya Thirta, Yellamma Gudi, Bhutanath complex, Tattukoyi complex, Vishnu Gudi, Kostaraya temple, 3. Northern hill which includes Mantapas, Lower Shivalaya, Upper Shivalaya, fortifications, inscriptions on rocks & the archaeological museum, and 4. Jambulinga Gudi, Virupaksha Gudi and Malegitti Shivalaya. Most tourists start their tours from part-1 i.e. the caves and then move on to northern fort.

July 17, 2022

We too started our tour of Badami from the cave temples... we spent about an hour at the caves, then came down to Agastya Thirtha, saw Yellamma Gudi and went to the northern side. South hill provides a panoramic view of north hill, one can see the structures on it in one glance. We were at the right time to get this nice shot of Lower Shivalaya.

Here's a panoramic view of the hill and partial view of Agastya Thirtha.

At the entrance of north fort, we decided to check out the hill first and then see the museum on the way out. The path snaking through the cleft in the north hill is interesting... the towering sandstone cliffs, the narrow gaps in the massive rock formation, the projecting & overhanging rocks are sights to behold. Living among these rocks are the agile monkeys, their scary antics are captivating. With so much to see, one hardly feels the effort on the uphill path. Here is Lower Shivalaya as seen from ground level.

As per the Heritage series booklet on Badami, Lower Shivalaya was built in the latter half of VI Century CE. This temple was in a badly damaged state before it was restored to this form. Originally it had an enclosed Pradakshinapatha, now only a column and beam remain of it. As you see the temple is two storey but there's no staircase to access the upper storey. Atop the upper storey is the octagonal dome which is said to be made during Vijayanagara rule.

Here are two closeup shots of the dome and four Kuttas around the dome, as the booklet calls them. Each of the corner pieces (Kuttas) feature a man in squatting position. These humanoid figures are said to be mortar sculptures. This is the front view of the crown while the next picture is the side view.

The temple's doorframe is multi-tiered with decorative bands of creepers. At the bottom is a pair of Ganas armed with spears. On the projecting beams are also Ganas with happy expressions.

A closeup shot of a spear-holding Gana wearing a pendant and a band around his waist. The Gana seems to be sporting long hair and wearing some kind of a cap.

These are the smiling Ganas on a broken beam. These Ganas seem to be crowding into a small space. 

This is the Garbhagudi (sanctum). The oval tub like piece is the pedestal. As per the booklet the deity of this temple was probably Brahma, Vishnu, Ganesha or Karthikeya.

Since Lower Shivalaya is situated on a projection, it is surrounded by sheer drops on three sides. Across the drop in front of the temple are these two mantapas which are said to be kings' meeting place. We will visit these mantapas in another post.

This is the view of Lower Shivalaya as seen from the two mantapas (previous picture).

Lastly, this is the view as seen from Upper Shivalaya. I feel this is the best angle available. Of course if with a drone, one could get better shots.

I would like to close this post with a picture of Upper Shivalaya as seen from Lower Shivalaya.

Next we will be heading to Upper Shivalaya. The path connecting these two temples is even more interesting.

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Yellamma Gudi, Badami

Badami was once known as Vatapi, over a period of few centuries, Vatapi transformed to Badami. Probably one of the reasons is the almond (Badami in Kannada) colored sandstone formations. With a numerous natural shelters, Badami hills were inhabited by humans since the Stone Age. Evidences like stone implements and rock-paintings have been found on these hills. During the common era (CE), in the VI Century, a dynasty named Chalukyas emerged here, ruled over the region, stayed in power for two centuries expanding their kingdom into an empire. The Chalukyas were a religious, powerful, prosperous and cultural people. It was during the Chalukyan time, the evolution of temple architecture took place, countless temples were built. Chalukyan temple builders were masters in creating rock-cut (cave) temples and structural temples. One can see both cave temples and structural temples at Badami. Besides, cave and structural temples, monolithic temples were also created - each temple was made by sculpting a single boulder. At Badami, there are two temple complexes and also several standalone temples. Among the standalone temples, Yellamma Gudi is one of the restored monuments. Having built so many temples, a natural source of water- Agastya Thirta -was also renovated with a retaining wall to harvest rainwater. Along the west and northern embankment are steps for easy access. Yellamma Gudi is situated on the western embankment.

July 17, 2022

Our tour of Badami started with the cave temple complex. Then as we made our way from the south hill to the north hill, we had cut through the town's congested locality to the west of Agastya Thirta. Our path touched the paved shore on the southwestern corner of the tank, then we took the steps leading up to the top of the embankment directly in front of Yellamma Gudi. This is an east-facing temple with a pillared hall having a seating platform on three sides, and one entrance. This hall in temple terminology is called ad Sabhamantapa.

At the center of the Sabhamabapa is the Rangamantapa, the space enclosed by these four similar looking pillars. Beyond the Rangamantapa is a doorway with a perforated screen. The doorway is the only access to the Garbhagudi (sanctum) via the Antharala (vestibule).

A series of little niches with floral motifs on the side and front walls of the Sabhamantapa. The tier below the floral series is a series of notches. One may wonder the purpose of these notches... my guess is they are made to hold oil lamps. During Deepotsava, the temple is decorated with glowing lamps. Mud cups can be easily placed in these notches.

Lets go around the temple once. This temple is a classic example of Chalukyan architecture. The design is simple but elegant. The Sabhamatapa (meeting hall) has ample ventilation even during warm months. Badami weather is usually dry and warm, being situated in a cleft, air movement can is limited which makes it sultry. So the designers opted for an open hall rather than an enclosed space. Its Shikhara type is known as Karnataka Dravida or Vesara.

Heritage Series booklet on Badami says that Yellamma Gudi was built by an ascetic named Paramanandadeva during the rule of Kalyana Chalukya king Jagadekamall II in 1139 CE. An inscription stating this information found here is now an exhibit at the historical museum here. This temple was originally dedicated to Yoga Narayana called Yogeshwara Narayana. It is possible that the deity of this temple- a XII Century CE idol of Dattatreya -is kept at another temple a short distance from here.

View of the temple side wall, Agastya Theerta waters and the southern sandstone cliffs.

Here is a glimpse of the exterior walls of the sanctum. The wall is made to resemble a series of miniature pillars. In the foreground are two stone objects- a Kalasha and a stone tub -both.

The seven tiered Vimana of Karnataka Dravida type. This part of the temple is really complex. Its a wonder how the builders managed to align the pieces in a 3D jigsaw puzzle. Thinking of present day puzzles, the ones with weird shapes and complex solutions, must have roots going back to historic times.

The front edge of the Sabhamantapa. The outer pillars are relatively simple and not so simple at the same time. Note the top of the pillars, the precisely formed grooves going around the pillar. Atop each of the pillars is are components supporting the roof firmly yet able to neutralize seismic forces to an extent. In the background are the cliffs of south hill. Atop the rocks are the rampart walls. On the cliffs are the mouths of Cave IV and the natural cave. At the base of the separate rock between the cliffs and the temple is a shrine which I'm yet to see. Surely its an ancient shrine, probably been there since the prehistoric times.

A group of friends from a nearby city touring Badami like us. The view of Agastya Thirta is truly breathtaking. Rainwater from the hills flow down into this tank. The builders have made way for excess water to flow out once the tank is filled to capacity. During a good rain, a gorgeous waterfall can be seen on the sandstone cliffs. Its a rare sight, one has to be lucky... rather one has to be here at the right time to see the glorious sight with their own eyes.

The stepped embankment. Residents of this part of the town come here to wash clothes and also to bathe in the cool waters. Yellamma Gudi is one of the monuments here which is rarely visited because of its location.

Finally, Yellamma temple as seen from the courtyard of Cave IV.

From Yelllamma temple we walk through the narrow lanes of the locality which are rather filthy despite the efforts of civic departments. I wish local people develop basic civic sense and keep their locality clean so that tourists leave with good memories.

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Srimadvirashaiva Shivayogi Mandira, Govanki

July 17, 2022

This was our first vacation together since we moved into our new home at Dharwad. Our plan was to visit Badami, Pattadakal, Mahakoota, Shivayogi Mandir, Aihole and Siddanakolla.  Pushpa hadn't visited any of these historical places and also wanted a break from her work, hence this trip. We left Dharwad around 5-30 am, reached Badami Caves by 8-30 am. Having spent 3½ hours we saw the caves, Yellamma Gudi, Agastya Theerta, north fort & its temples, and the museum. We left Badami around 12-30, went to Mahakoota where we spent about 30 minutes and then reached Shivayogi Mandir around 1-15 pm. This is the main entrance of Shivayogi Mandir premises.

Shivayogi Mandir is situated on the left bank of river Malaprabha. It was established in the year 1909 to protect local breed cows. Today Shivayogi Mandir is better known as an institute which trains Matadipathis i.e. Lingayath and Veerashaiva monastery heads. The institute's library is unique as it possesses Talegari Shasana (scriptures written on palm leaves). It is also known for its Ayurvedic hospital and Vibhuti manufacturing center. Shivayogi Mandir Jatre is very popular and attended by thousands of people to see its Theru (tall wooden chariot). Last but not the least, like almost every Lingayath / Veerashaiva monastery, Shivayogi Mandir also conducts Anna Dasoha.

As we parked the car inside the campus, we realized it was Anna Dasoha time. After the hectic time at Badami we were famished, we decided to partake Prasada first and then go around the monastery. It was a satisfying meal of rice and sambar. Adjoining the lunch hall is the cowpen and the Vibhuti factory. We took a quick look into the cowpen, only Jawari Aakala were present. Cow dung & urine are collected and sent next door to the factory to produce Vihuti.

The Vihuti factory runs on women-power. As I understood local women are employed here, they handle all stages of the process. This heap of dark powdery material is dried & burnt cow dung ash. This ash is stored in a special container for 3 days before bringing it here. In the background mud pots are seen, water is stored in them probably to maintain the water at a certain temperature. 

The processed ash and water are mixed well to form a thick paste. The ash paste is pressed into small blocks using a hand powered press.

The blocks are then finished by hand with the aide of a wooden table and spoon like device seen here. The dark colored hexagonal prism shaped blocks are set aside for 24 hours to set & dry. Next the blocks are burnt in a kiln. The heat treatment transforms the color to white which means Vibhuti is ready. As I understand, small and big Vihuti are made and sold to public. Probably larger blocks are made and supplied to temples and matas. There's an exclusive sale counter. Since they are made in limited quantities, one can get only one Vibhuti. We were lucky to get one, we were one of the last three or four people to get the Vibhuti.

Next we went towards the two shrines. This artistic building enshrines Hangal Sadashiva Swamiji's Gaddige.

Weather was warm and humid since morning. A light rain fell for about 10 minutes, which made the weather even more humid.

The ambiance of the place is serene. One could sit here and experience calm vibes. There could be slight disturbance once in a while when large groups come here.

This buiilding enshrines Sri Kumareshwara Swamiji's Gaddige.

In this open hall sits a vendor selling books and souvenir items like finger rings, necklaces, bands, etc. 

One has to appreciate the cleanliness of this place, Very neat and tidy.

Next we head to the library enclosure within this campus. This is the view of the shrine we just left, as seen from the library enclosure.

This single floor building is the library for the students who are aspiring to become Matadipaths. In this library are ancient palm leaf scriptures - absolutely invaluable stuff stored in here. This library is out of bounds for general public.

This tower is the parking shed for the Mata's Theru. This building is approximately 50' tall. The chariot must be 40 to 45 feet tall. A pair of channels 150 meters long emerge from the shed, they are tracks for the Theru. This is a great idea considering safety. 

Lastly, a quick look at the Ayurveda hospital campus.

The hospital seems to have wards for inpatients as well.

Four or five Ficus trees dominate the hospital campus. These marvelous beings keep the place cool & calm, give shelter to birds and insects. I just wish the staff let the ariel roots take root.

 

Thanks to this monastery for its service to the society in multiple ways. Next time I'll inquire into its history. One of the online articles mentions Sri Kumaraswamiji of Navilteerth connection to this monastery. This is something that needs to be verified.

From here we head towards Pattadakallu, the coronation center of the Chalukyas.

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Chikki temple complex, Aihole

July 19, 2022

This was our third and final day of Badami-Pattadakal-Aihole trip. After a quick tour of Charantimath complex and Kunti temple complex, we had breakfast and stopped to see Chikki temple complex. Unfortunately the gates were locked, so I had to take a few pictures from outside.

Chikki group is situated close to Durga temple complex, probably two minutes walk. Like most other temples of Aihole, the name of this temple might be the name of the occupier in the recent times. Chikki complex consists of three separate temples; two are regular Chalukyan structures, while the third one is an open shrine.

This temple below is the main temple of the group. This east-facing temple has balustraded steps, a Mukhamantapa (verandah), a enclosed Sabhamantapa with windows on the sides walls. It has sloped roof and a rectangular crown which could be the base of missing Shikhara. On the sloping roof are long blocks of stone similar to the ones seen at Lad Khan temple. The entire structure is made of sandstone. Going by the idol of Nandi in front of the temple, we can say the deity inside is a Shiva Linga.

This temple seems to be built in the 5th Century CE as per online sources.

I tried to get a diagonal view of the structure but thorny bushes prevented me from going further. This is the best I could manage. I thought of going across the wall, then decided not to do so. ASI might have locked it on purpose, better not to violate. 

To the left of the main temple is this shrine. I think this temple is incomplete. The Antharala and Garbhagudi have been made. The Antharala entrance has a perforated screen. For some reason the Sabhamantapa was never built. Next to is remains of another temple which has stopped at the foundation level.

Here's a slightly zoomed in picture of the second temple. I feel this structure has been restored by the archaeology department. 

The last item here is the open air shrine; a Shivalinga, an arch, balustraded steps and flooring are seen. I'm not sure if this is an incomplete temple or if it is still in the process of restoration.

The total number of individual temples from all groups in Aihole could exceed hundred. And there are temples of various sects- Shaiva, Vaishnava, Jaina, and Bouddha. Aihole also has remains of ancient quarries, prehistoric paintings and megalithic tombs. To see a complete list of monuments, check out What to see in Aihole.

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