Manikyeshwara Gudi n Musukina Bavi, Lakkundi

Lakkundi was once known as Lokkugundi. By the mid of X Century, Lokkugundi was Chaluyan empire's major commercial center with a mint operations here. By XII Century, this city had a cluster of temples, wells and reservoirs. So besides being an economic center, Lokkugundi was a religious center. In the ravages of time, empires came and went, cities grew and collapsed but the memories of ancient rulers lived on. Chalukyans left indelible marks in the form of temples, tanks & inscriptions. Folk lore says that Lakkundi once had a hundred temples & wells. Now, in the present day, Lakkundi has retained only a fraction of hundred temples... less than twenty can be seen. These remaining monuments are awe inspiring and thought provoking. The architecture and artworks of these temples makes one wonder how intense was the concentration of power & effort behind creating them. Hard to imagine that.

Of the twenty temples, Manikyeshwara Devastana is the most unique item. Its uniqueness is the combination of a simple Trikutachala and its Kalyani... a temple with three sanctums accompanied by a veiled stepped well. Its veiled because part of the well is concealed by a platform hence the name Musukina Bavi. So, here's the temple and the flat space in the front is the veil.

This is basically an east-facing temple. Since it has three sanctums it qualifies to be a Trikutachala. The primary sanctum faces east while the secondary sanctums face south and north. In plan, this temple has a Sabhamantapa (meeting hall) around which the three sanctums are placed. In this picture below, the east facing sanctum is seen. The vestibule (passage connecting the meeting hall and sanctum) has a perforated screen. While the deity, a Shivalinga, is in the sanctum, Nandi is placed in the vestibule. The two polished pillars are part of the four-pillared Ranga Mantapa (dance stage).

A closer look at the sanctum. Its doorframe is a grand looking five tiered piece. Also in front of the sanctum entrance is a low platform in floral pattern.

A diagonal view of the east-facing vestibule.

On the right wall of north-facing sanctum is a mural of a Mantapa with its crown resembling a pillared mantapa. The floral pattern on the sloping roof of the Mantapa is exquisite.... a horizontal band of creeper and hanging strings of beads. In between the curls of the creeper are a swan, a bull and elephants.

This is the north-facing sanctum. Its vestibule also has a perforated screen, so does the south-facing sanctum. The circular pit in front of the door seems to be a later creation by the people who might have occupied this place before the ASI took over.

Lastly the perforated screen of south-facing Antharala.

Now lets see the exterior which is is simple but elegant. The floor plan of the temple is T-shaped. This is the rear part. The walls enclosing the three Garbhagudi and Antharala are seen here.

This is the south-eastern corner. Except for a few miniature pillars and Shikaras, the walls are more or less plain looking.

This is the opposite side, looks wise the walls are identical. As you see, the roof are flat, no Shikaras over the Garbhagudi. I think this temple is incomplete, may be the builders has plans for Shikhara and and an extended Sabhamantapa. Had it been completed, Manikeshwara Devastana would've looked like Bhavani Shankar Devastana situated at Old Hubli.

Looks like this temple was restored and being actively maintained.

Amazing floral patterns on the roof level. The eight petal floral creation enclosed in circles is a clever piece of work. The flanking floral murals are also brilliant, the finishing of the stones gives it a realistic look.

On the north-eastern side of the Trikutachala is the stepped well. Compared to other stepped wells this one is relatively complex with four sets of steps descending into the water. The main steps are on the well's southern side. These steps pass under a bridge like platform supported by beams and columns.

With sufficient rainfall over this region, the well is almost filled to its brim. Except for the top 7 or 8 steps, the rest are submerged. The bridge is seen on far end of the water surface.

View of the well from the bridge.

This is the southern end of the well. The steps descend and pass under the bridge. Green moss has accumulated over the water surface. I hope the caretakers clean it up before the entire surface is taken over by moss.

I'll close this post with pictures of the well sans water shot a decade earlier. This gives a clear view of the subterranean structure of the well. Going by the looks of this well, this cycle of low and high water levels was an ancient phenomena. One feature of the temple are the mini shrines meant for performing rituals immediately after a bath. The practice of bathing and then sitting down for worship while dripping wet existed in the past. Hence those shrines within the well.

View of the well from inside.

During the recent visit I learned that Aikyasthala of Shivasharana Ajaganna is near Manikeshwara Devastana, just off the path going to the main road. Apparently Sharana Ajaganna kept the Ishtalinga in his mouth unlike the regular practice of holding the Ishtalinga in the palm. Ajaganna composed Vachanas with this pen name Mahaghana Someshwara.

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