a trip with brother, Chandragutti-1

It had been more than two years since I'd seen my brother. He was home for a vacation and we had planned a get-together at Dharwad. Besides spending a few days at Dharwad, we planned a tour. The original plan was to spend a day at Bhadravati, then go to Kumathi and lastly Hampi. Bhadravati is where we spent our early years. Deepak wanted to see the town, the house we lived in and the school we went there. Close to Kumathi are two prehistoric sites. Deepak wanted to see one of them- the two anthropomorphic statues. Hampi was my idea, I wanted him to see some of the rarely seen spots in and around Hampi. During one of our chats, the hill-jungle-fort Chandragutti was spoken of and Deepak was interested in it. The route was frozen- Dharwad to Chandragutti - Bhadravati - Kumati - Hampi - Dharwad.

Jan 27, 2025. We left home by 5-45 AM, heading towards Tadas cross on NH48. At Tadas cross we left NH48 and took the road towards Mundgod. The curvy road flanked by greenery was a treat to our eyes. Around 7 AM we noticed a large waterbody to our right, it looked like a good spot to stretch out a bit.

The fresh air worked up an appetite. We had home-packed breakfast of bread, tomato curry and boiled eggs. We resumed the journey, driving nonstop through forest area, open fields, villages & towns until we reached Chandragutti. We went straight to Renukadevi Devastana, parked the Brio at a spot where we expected shade. This was my second visit here.. I was trying to recollect the memories of Oct 8th 2011. I could recall the row of little shops selling flowers, fruits, coconuts and other things needed for the temple rituals. We wore our camera loaded bags and commenced the trek.

A board planted close to the temple outlined the history: Chandragutti, (Chandraguptapura of ancient times) was a stronghold of the Kadambas of Banavasi (third-sixth centuries A.D.), In an inscription dated A.D. 1396 of the reign of Vijayanagara king Harihara II (A.D. 1377-1404), Bachanna, a local chieftain claims to have ruled over Chandragutti later the area was under the Keladi Nayakas.
The Renukadevi temple situated on the summit of an elevated spot and is a large natural cave approached by a flight of steps enshrining a small masked Sivalinga. The place has been associated with saint Jamadagni and his wife Renuka. The colossal hip like boulders in the cave are identified as Renuka in hiding when Parashurama pursued her. The outer facade of the cave forms the vestibule, which is in the Chalukyan style. A pillared hall was added the during Viiayanagara period. Almost at the foot of the Renukamba temple facing west is a temple of Bhairava.

Our destination was the fort so we took the path bypassing the temple slightly. Anybody taking the main staircase to the temple must be barefoot, the alternate is the roundabout path which we took. Even on the path we took there were couple of minor shrines, one is Bairava Gudi, I think. The path we treaded is an ancient one, made of rough-cut stones. Walking barefoot or with slippers can be difficult here, even with shoes we had to be watchful of every step. We reached a steep flight of steps which led to the side of Renuka temple. The path to the fort started from a fork there. I was confused like before, we did a bit of back and forth before taking the right path. The first major landmark were the shallow pond and the gateway in the outer fort walls. In those few minutes two dogs had latched on to us, they would follow us, and lead us at times.

This is the narrow passage in the fort wall. In the background the pond can be seen. Out fur legged friends were sniffing intensely on the shore but rejoined us as we went ahead. The stony path seen here is the ancient one. During rains this place will be maze of crisscrossing streams, water can wash away open soil. I guess that's the reason for paving this part with stones. One thing I was clear about was about the sharp right turn down this path. During the previous visit, it was an effortless climb as though I was guided by some unseen force. That afternoon, weather was pleasant, the hill wore a fresh green look, soil was damp and soft. This time it was a contrast.. dry and warm.

Around 10-30 we passed through a gateway in the inner ring of fortification. We found a shady spot and stopped for a break. From the spot we could see the fortified summit. While I and the two canines rested, Deepak launched his DJI Mini2 for a couple of minutes.

Our destination is just behind those walls up there.

We moved on. This spot is just below the third gateway, a flat open spot. I guess this was a major checkpoint.

A ruined lies neglected on the side of the opening. Not just neglected, it seems to be vandalized on a regular basis. However, it has managed to survive.

The entrance to this opening is just behind the rock, it's a naturally curved path.

In the background is the cannon spot. Deepak and the canines stand camouflaged in the shade. While we sipped water we were concerned about our friends. We poured a little water in a concave surface on one of the stones but our friends didn't bother to have it. May not be thirsty.

The gateway seen from the shady spot. I recall leaving my sandals at this gateway and continuing barefoot. While trekking, it's either barefoot or a pair of thick-soled shoes. Nothing in between works.

Unlike other historical spots, we cannot see any kind of maintenance here. Vegetation is taking over many structures here. Do check out the blog post of 2011 to see the place back then- Chandragutti fort.

In this picture, to the left is a walled water-tank and a stone trough. That trough is surely for horses and cattle. Maybe military had elephants too. During my last visit, the water tank was free of vegetation. This time, the inner space of the tank was filled with small trees and bushes.

Further on, I was expecting another gateway but to my shock it was a huge pile of boulders. The entire structure had collapsed. It was a beautiful gateway, a passage between two high walls. This sight saddened me. I wonder if treasure seekers vandalized a part of the gateway leading to its collapse. We bypassed the pile and clambered up a rather steep stretch. It was so steep that descending it would be too risky.

That's where we reached after the steep ascent. Had we passed through the gateway, we would've come to a narrow hairpin like curve. I remember running into a herd of cows during my previous visit. They were returning home after grazing up here. From here the end of the trail is not far, maybe ten minutes away.

That's the highest point of the trail but not the end.

View from that high point. We made way through the jungle seen below... fortifications, gateways and all.

It was almost noon. We had climbed two hours. Back in 2011, I had reached the end of the trail in 45 minutes. Yeah, it was literally a nonstop trek. I'd started around 4 PM, with just two and half hours daylight, I hadn't the luxury of taking breaks.

From the above view, panning to the right, the ruins come into sight.. water tanks, shelters and walls. Right ahead of me is the largest water tank here. It's pretty deep!

Panning more to the right.. another shelter and water tank. This one is smaller but deep enough to drown a adult man.

Last time here the water level was higher and, a cow was floating in it. I guess the poor little creature must've slipped and fallen in. Surely there was no way for it climb out. I still remember hearing thunder in distance but I wasn't afraid somehow. One of the most unforgettable treks of my life.

Deepak and head down towards the ruins without having to worry about time. In fact, we would need a nice break from the blazing sunlight. I'll continue this story in the following post.. a trip with brother, Chandragutti-2.

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Chintamani temple complex, part-2

...continued from Chintamani temple complex, part-1.

The first half of Chintamani temple complex comprises of Kashi Paduke shrine, Rudrakshi Matha and  Lakshmi Narasimha Devastana among other minor shrines. Shrines of this complex are all ancient and most of them are active. After the morning rituals these shrines remain closed until the following day unless it's a festive day or when there's a request for a special pooja. Now we are well past the half way point of the complex. Here's an unnamed temple..

The boulders mark the arrival of the natural rock shelter which is connected to Rama.

I guess this mantapa was made for pilgrims' convenience. Just imagine this place a few hundred years ago.. a group camping in this lodge on the river bank, a makeshift kitchen, washed clothes hanging between pillars, mats spread on the floor, people resting and chatting while kids are scampering around.

Stepping out of the mantapa, we reach the most revered spot of Chintamani. The two blocks seen on the rock are Rama Padha ~ Rama's feet. Some say that this is the spot from where Rama aimed and shot an arrow at Vali the king of Kishkinda.

Next to Rama Padha is an engraved image of a bow & arrow points the direction in which the arrow went. Of these two Padha, the one on the left seems to be ancient while the one on right is relatively new. The new Padha is made of marble and has a lot of details carved into them. Also there's an inscription n Kannada.

The feet has embossed and engraved images depicting humanoids, serpents, sun, stars, geometric figures and other religious symbols. The Kannada inscription's transcription: ವನವಾಸದ ದಾರಿಯಲ್ಲಿ ಇರುವ ಅನೇಕ ತೀರ್ಥಕ್ಷೇತ್ರಗಳ ಪಾವನ ಧೂಳಿಯಿಂದೊಡಗೂಡಿದ ಶ್ರೀ ರಾಮನ ಚರಣಾರವಿಂದದ ಪೂಜೆ ದರ್ಶನಗಳು ಜಗತ್ತಿನ ಎಲ್ಲ ತೀರ್ಥಕ್ಷೇತ್ರಗಳ ಪುಣ್ಯವನ್ನು ನೀಡುತ್ತವೆಂದು ಶಾಸನಗಳು ಸಾರಿವೆ.

Right besides Rama's feet is the natural rock shelter. At the entrance of the cave is a memorial stone honoring a couple. They don't seem to be warriors, rather they look like a married couple. Going by the look of the stone, it seems to be of Viajayanagara times.

That's Sridhar posing at the cave's mouth.

During my first visit here i.e. in July 2012, a local guy accompanying us told that Rama did penance here after slaying Vali. However, now people say that this is the place of Sugreeva and Rama's first meeting. That colorful painting wasn't there in 2012. Looks like it was made when Anajanadri Betta became popular and tourists started visiting in large numbers.

Our little guide looks at the painting of the meeting of Rama, Lakshmana, Hanuman, Sugreeva and Jambavan. Whoever painted it has created a master piece. I hope the artist maintain the painting since it is bound to fade with time.

That's the cave's mouth. This place is peaceful and quite cool even in hot summers.

The temple and mantapa next to the Rama-Sugreeva cave. It's the same one seen in previous pictures. This place gives a great view of Tungabhadra. I must visit this place during the months of August-September. That's when monsoon fills up the dam at Hospete and water is let out.

Having done with the temple complex, we descend into the river path and look back at the complex. Usually at this time of the year, gates at the dam are shut barring one or two gates to feed irrigational canals. Close by a group of women from Anegundi were washing clothes. We chose a spot to sit and wet our feet. Cool water is so soothing after walking around in blazing sunlight. Also the gurgling sounds of water flowing through rocks was music.

Another ancient mantapa, surely built during Viajayanagara times. It looks nice from here but the inside is untidy, littered with plastic bottles and clothes. Wish our people learn the basics of public etiquette. 

Turning to the right we can see Rudrakshi Matha.

Back at the complex entrance, Sridhar, I and our guide had sugarcane juice. It felt very refreshing and energized, ready to continue the tour of the day. Our next destination was Malyavanta Raghunatha Devastana.

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Chintamani temple complex, part-1

Dec 10, 2024. The day started with an early trek up Anjanadri Betta. Considered as the birthplace of Hanuman, Anjanadri hill is situated 3.5 km from Anegundi entrance. After spending 30 minutes at the hilltop and getting a relaxed darshan of Anjanadevi, we descended and had good breakfast of idli and paddu at a bandi eatery. Then we headed to Pampa Sarovara, the natural spring pond nestled in the slopes of Rishimukha Betta. It is beleived that Rama & Lakshmana had bathed at Pampa Sarovara during their stay at Kishkinda. The place is also connected to Shabari, and also known for Sri Vijayalakshmi Devastana. Then we headed to Anegundi with a sole objective of visiting Chintamani. Anegundi is an ancient fortified town situated on the left bank of Tungabhadra at the point where the river turns northwards. Here we stand at the gateway to the place. Take left to go to enter the river, and take right to enter Chinatamni temple complex.

The temple complex is an elongated premises consisting of temples and mantapas mostly built on the rocky shore. Straight ahead is the small structure named Ishwara Kashi Paduke, Further ahead is the multistoried structure of Rudrakshi Matha.

Also, there's a small structure on the boulder on the right hand side.

A board planted by Karnataka Tourism department describes this complex as follows:
The Chintamani temple complex is located in the southeast corner of Anegundi. According to the local legends, it is believed to have been established by a sage in the late 15th century, during the reign of Tirumalaraya. The tradition of matha (monastery) was ancient. The River Tungabhadra turns from the south to the north at this point, marking it as a sacred spot for many pilgrims. The Rudraksha Mantapa, Lakshmi Narasimha Temple and the Ganesha temple are prominent temples of this complex. There is a pedestal in the middle part of the garbhagriha and a carving of the Shivalinga on the lintel of the entrance. There are three arch carvings on the mantapa constructed with stucco. The mantapa is erected on square-shaped pillars. Nearly a one-foot height sculpture of a devotee with folded hands (Anjali Hasta) is found in front of the matha along the shore of the river. The terrace is lined with fertility stones - these have carvings of Nagashilpa (cobras in relief). There is a cave nearby which might have been a place of penance for the ancient sages. Further from this terrace is the Rama Pada, where footprints, said to be of Rama, are engraved in stone - this marks the spot from where he hid behind a tree and killed Vali. Further ahead is a cave, which is believed to be the first meeting spot of Rama and Anjaneya.

Side view of Rudrakshi Matha.

The arched gateway of Chintamani complex from Ishwara Kashi Paduke temple. All shrines of this complex face east and the river too.

The simple shrine with an open pillared hall on three sides.

The deity of this temple is a pair of feet, Paduke. Going by the name of the shrine these feet are Ishwara's.

Chintamani gateway, Ishwara Kasi Paduke and the little shrine atop the rock. Notice the window in the Paduke shrine's wall which gives a view of the river.

Here's the staircase connecting the river and Rudrakshi Matha. As I know during a good rainy season, the river swells raising the water level right upto the staircase here.

This is Rudrakshi Matha. As you see the structure has three levels- ground, first and second. The staircases on either sides of the building lead straight to the second floor, to the level where the Rudrakshi Mantapa is housed.

A unique temple indeed.

This is the Rudrakshi Mantapa. Long strings of Rudraksha are wound around the pillars and lintel beams. In the Hindu religious tradition Rudraksha symbolizes spiritual alignment, resonates with positive energy, and promote spiritual development. Inside the Mantapa are idols of Shiva Linga, Ganesha and Annapurneshwari. I regret not inquiring about the mantapa, must do it during my next visit.

The open space and pillared hall offers ample space for at least a couple of hundred people.

A splendid sight from Rudrakshi Matha.. Tungabhadra and Tara hill. The pillared hall sitting in the river is believed to be built in memory of the most popular king of Vijayanagara, Krishnadevaraya. It has 64 pillars set in a 8x8 matrix. It is said that Krishnadevaraya had mastered sixty four subjects required to be become an effective ruler.

Panning to the left.. Ishwara Kasi Paduke shrine comes into view.

This little structure is the highest point of Chintamani complex. Through it's narrow doorway one can see there's a platform. It seems to be a temple.

Moving on, we go deeper into the complex. This must be Sri Lakshminarasimha Devastana.

An ancient Brindavana. I guess all these temples are active, probably rituals are performed every morning, and surely there would be special rituals on festive days.

The path continues.. more temples to be seen. However names and histories of many of these temples are unknown. Perhaps, during my next visit I must make inquiries in Anegundi village.

Chintamani must be a bustling place during Vijayanagara times. This place with flowing water is an ideal place to perform rituals and ceremonies for deceased relatives. Of course, rituals for happy occasions would also be performed.

Here's a collection of Nagashilpa i.e. fertility stones. Maybe these are donations of people who wished for progeny or continuation of their lineage in the future.

There's more to see here. This article will continue in Chintamani temple complex, part-2.

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