Sep 1, 2018

Nagarjunasagar and Nagarjunakonda - part 2

..continued from Nagarjuna Sagar and Nagarjunakonda - part 1

Now we are at the restored remains of Simhala Vihara, a monastery dedicated to monks from Sri Lanka. This structure seen here is a Stupa, as seen from a corner of its square base.

Here's the map of Nagarjunakonda island showing the locations of all monuments. We are approximately at the center.


A small board planted by the archaeology department carries this description.
Simhala Vihara (Circa 3rd Cent CE)
This monastery evidently meant for Ceylonese monks, it is interesting for its two apsidal Chaitya grihas juxtaposed to each other and enshrining an image of Buddha and Uddesika stupa respectively. The moon stone and decorated pillars of the central mandapa are notable features.

This is the Google maps view of  the monastery. Its good to be familiar with the layout before we go around.

The Stupa's north-eastern corner. On its northern face is a pair of staircase positioned opposite to each other (see inset). Tourists are not allowed to climb over it, a very alert security guard makes sure of it. Since these are brick structures they are prone to fast wear and tear.

Behind the Stupa are two more Chaityas, group meditation hall and individual meditation cells. In the foreground are two cells, beyond that is the Uddesika Chaitya and on the right are pillars of the central mantapa i.e. the group meditation hall.

I'm going around the periphery first and then to the center. Here in the foreground is another long hall. I'm guessing this to be a dormitory.

Another long hall. Outside the hall, along the wall is a platform meant for sitting. I was wondering what this stone lined pit was for. It seems to create by caretakers to let rain water in so that the ground dries faster.
A similar seat along a row of cells is finished with stone slabs. Trying to imagine a small group of monks seated here engrossed in a serious discussion. I don't think they engaged in idle chatter but can't say they lacked sense of humor.

At the end of the long seat is the door to the central area. The entrance is decorated with a half-moon step and flanked by a pair of simple sculptures. Half-moon slab at entrances seems to be a standard design here. In the background, towards the left is the statue of standing Buddha.

The central hall with its remaining pillars. These pillars are referred to as Ayaka pillars. In the foreground is another half-moon stone and the sculpted slabs.

Closer look at the arrangement. It seems like a dragon's head with its tongue stretched out and curled. This is the Buddhist version. Hindu temple steps too are flanked by a pair of similar sculptures which are much larger and grander. The tongue actually curls into a deep spiral. On the fly I can quote one example at Shambulingesvara Devasthana, Kundgol.

The central area is enclosed by rows of meditation cells, or they could be monks' living quarters.

While most of the calls are mud-floored here's one with tiled floor. The archaeology department could have created one cell or dormitory completely, I mean full height walls, roofing and windows.

Front view of the tiled floor cell. I think the idea behind the half-moon stone is to avoid sharp edges so that one hurts their feet accidentally.

Lets turn our attention to the two most important parts of this monastery, the two apsidal Chaitya Griha. This one is the Uddesika Chaitya. Griha means house.

The Uddesika Stupa. Physically its a cylindrical structure with a domed top. Notice how carefully the individual pieces are assembled to form a circular wall and the dome. At its a base is a white ring with detailed etchings. I think monks go around the Stupa in clockwise direction. Wondering if this Stupa originally was built to rotate on its axis like a huge Buddhist prayer wheel.

Right opposite to the Uddesika Chaitya Griha is the Boudha Chaitya.

The larger than lifesize Buddha is made of white stone, symbolizing peace. Buddha's posture exudes serenity. He seems to be meditating while standing, holding the free end of his clothing with the raised left arm. The detailing of Buddha's robe is amazing. The Chaitya Griha's apsidal design helps focus on the idol i.e. the view converged into Buddha. A square or rectangular chamber\s corners could be distracting but a rounded wall has the opposite effect.

The rear-side view of the Boudha Griha. Of all the temples I've seen there's only temple which is apsidal and that's at Halae Mahakoota near Badami.

One last look at the Stupa of Simhala Vihara. This is the only monument with an idol of Buddha on this island.

From here we go to Bodhisri Chaitya. The tour continues in the next post - Nagarjunasagar and Nagarjunakonda - part 3
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