Nagarjunasagar and Nagarjunakonda - part 3

..continued from Nagarjuna Sagar and Nagarjunakonda - part 2

Having seen the Megalithic tomb and Simhala Vihara, we arrive at Bodhisri Chaitya. This structure is similar to Uddesika Stupa seen at Simhala monastery, a cylinder with a dome enclosed in an apsidal brick wall. The only difference is the missing half-moon stone at the Chaitya entrance. Another thing- this wall is thicker than the ones seem earlier.

A stone tablet describes the monument as follows-

Bodhisri Chaitya (3rd Cent CE)
Originally this Chaitya formed part of Chuladharmagiri Vihara. The inscription on the floor slabs registered the gifts by disciple Upasika Bodhisri.

Quoting a line from Wikipedia: A Stupa (Sanskrit: "heap") is a mound-like or hemispherical structure containing relics (śarīra - typically the remains of Buddhist monks or nuns) that is used as a place of meditation. So Stupas are somewhat like Gaddigae aka Khabar aka tomb. The structure is designed for meditation, especially the rounded end converges the vision unlike sharp corners which seem to distract. At the base of the hemisphere runs a circular channel, no idea what the purpose is. At the base of a cylinder is a white stone ring which depicts a lotus in full bloom. Here we actually go "around" unlike the conventional square paths around Garbhagudi.

A thought- modern day space observatory buildings resemble this structure. Over the dome view of the Stupa. The sculptors skill in creating this 3D assembly is commendable.

Here's the map of Nagarjunakonda island showing the positions of monuments on it. To cover all the monuments one need to be prepared to walk six kilometers. So its good to arrive here by the first boat in the morning. The boat operators announce that you have one hour, just ignore it, you can take another boat for the return journey, there's no rule that you have to take the same boat for onward and return journeys. However, you have to stick to the operator i.e. Telangana or Andhra Pradesh. Generally its warm here, good to wear light shades of cotton, wear shoes, carry an umbrella, water, citrus fruits and snacks.

Next item on our path is a Hindu temple which was originally built here. There are two or three other Hindu shrines on this hill on original locations. The temple has a Garbhagudi and a Mukhamantapa without roof, not sure if it was ever completed or if was damaged at some point of time. On the right side of the temple you can see a hemispherical object, that's a Stupa, we'll be going there next.

The temple's design is similar to temples built during Vijayanagara or Kakatiyas time. Had it been complete, there would be s stepped Shikhara. There's no deity inside, no rituals performed here.

Lets move on to the Stupa now which is known as Chamtasri Chaitya Griha. A tablet planted here describes the monuments as-
This Chaitya Griha with its votive Stupa was built by queen Chamtasri sister of Vasishthiputra Chantamula for the use of monks living in the adjoining Mahavinaya Seliya Vihara.

Like the stupas at Simhala Vihara and Bodhisri Chaitya this too is apsidal, built of red bricks and grey stone. It looks like every stupa had caretaker monks, it would be their responsibility to maintain and protect it. Also, its a belief that any building should be inhabited lest evil spirits haunt if its vacant.

The white ring symbolizes a lotus. The remains of Buddhist monk or nun enshrined in this Stupa is placed in the Divine flower. Fortunate are those who built this monument.

A close look at one of the slabs on the Stupa. The concentric circles indicate it was turned in a lathe like device. Also, notice the curvature of the slab. All slabs around the Stupas have turn marks on them. This stone is known as Shahabad stone in northern Karnataka.

A stone's throw from Chamtasri Chaitya Griha is the Maha Chaitya. For pious Buddhists, this is the most important monument on this island. In terms of physical size this is the largest Stupa too. In fact Dalai Lama had paid a visit to this monument in 2006.

Description of this monument on a stone tablet planted here-
Mahastupa (re-constructed) 3rd Cent CE
This is the principal stupa found in the Krishna valley and referred to in the inscription on the Ayaka pillars as "Maha Chaitya." It contained a sacred bone relic probably of the Lord Buddha himself. Chamtamula built this Mahastupa under the supervision of the reverend Anand, a disciple of Buddha, during the 6th regnal year of the King Sri Virupashadatta of the Ikshvaku line (3rd Century CE) of about 27.5 m marked by ayaka platforms surmounted by ayaka pillars in the four cardinal directions.

Now you know why Maha Stupa's significance, because of the possible physical connection with Gautama Buddha. The white column seen here is the Ayaka pillar at the Northern side.

I go around it clockwise. This wall runs around the Stupa, with entrances at the four cardinal directions.

Here's the bird's eye view of Mahastupa. Thanks to Google Satellite Maps and Wikimapia. The overall diameter is 43 meters (140') and diameter of the inner Stupa is 26 meters (85'). Overall height is around 10' excluding pillar height.

A close look at the Ayaka platform and pillars marking South. These are the original bricks which have withstood the test of time.

Another view of the southern platform with its share of pillars.

As I came to this platform i.e. marking west direction, a group of Tibetan Buddhist were offering prayers here. The group included a nun and a monk too. I watched them from a distance.. they had traveled so far to visit this sacred monument which means I was fortunate enough see this as well. The reason for the pillar's importance is the inscription it carries. There's no information about the inscription here so I'm guessing that it mentions the presence of Buddha's bone in this Stupa.

A close look at the Ayaka pillar and its inscription. I'm guessing the text is Brahmi.

The northern platform, this Ayaka pillar is the tallest remaining pillar on this island.

This Peepul tree planted by Dalai Lama on Jan-2-2006. For a 10 year old tree, its quite a slow growing tree but it looks healthy. Thanks to the caretakers.

Most tourists who made it to Maha Chaitya turn and go back towards the museum. I'd to force my companions Pushpa and Bhuvana to join me.. the heat was sapping out our energy. Moreover we'd forgotten a hat and umbrella.

This is the desolate path going towards the two remaining monuments- Aswamedha Tank and Swastika Stupa.

The tour continues in Nagarjuna Sagar and Nagarjunakonda - part 4.
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