Apr 29, 2017

What to see in Bijapur district?

The name Bijapur evokes thoughts of a hot & dry place and Gol Gumbaz. The capital city of Adil Shahis, Bijapur had its name restored as Vijayapura - the city of victory. Vijayapura district consists of 5 talukas - Vijayapura, Indi, Sindagi, Basavana Bagewadi and Muddebihal. The district is generally flat with vast stretches of black soil fields. The district's northern and southern borders are marked by two major rivers - Bhima and Krishna. Bhima eventually merges into Krishna near Rayachoor. Though considered hot & dry Bijapur is known to receive good rainfall. Bijapur is also known for its biting cold winters; temperature as low as 4° C have been recorded. Then Bijapur is known for its jowar both in terms of quantity and quality. Bijapur farmers are experts in growing grapes, the green variety which are sold fresh and also made into raisins. Talking about food, its said that the concept of Khanawali (eateries which serve home-made jolada-rotti oota ~ jowar roti meals) has originated from Bijapur.

The district capital, Vijayapura city needs no introduction, yet tourists often are ignorant of the place's heritage monuments. The city it self has close to 50 spots of interest, if not more. The fortified capital of Adil Shahi kingdom is built in a large man-made bowl. The fort surrounding the city was formidable and defended by several cannons of which a handful have remained. During the Adil Shahi rule, the city had the most advance infrastructure.. water was supplied from two large tanks through pipe lines. It is said that the city never faced water shortage even during summer months. Today, you may not find the pipe lines but most of its monuments remain standing which includes at least one 500 years old Baobab tree.

Here are some of the spots to check out within the city-
  1. Saharasapani Parshwanath Basadi - About three kilometers from the city on Dargha-e-Hazrath road is this Jain Mandir. The main deity of this temple is Parshwanath. The idol was discovered about a century ago while excavating a mound. A meter tall black-stone idol depicts Parshwanath shaded by a serpent with 1008 hoods like an umbrella. The temple also has two other ancient Jain idols. The three idols are said to be of 10th, 14th & 15th centuries.
  2. Sangeet Mahal at Navaraspur - to the east of Bijapur, next to Torvi village lies the ruins of Sangeet Mahal, meaning Palace of Music. Ibrahim Adil Shah had launched a project of developing a new town called Navaraspur however the plans were abandoned when Malik Amber's invasion left the project in ruins.
  3. Laxmi-Narasimha Devasthana at Toravi village is an ancient shrine dedicated to Mahalaxmi.
  4. Saat Qabr - the graveyard of Afzal Khan's 64 wives. To the north of this graveyard is the mosque of Afzal Khan, a powerful army commander.
  5. Afzal Khan Cenotaph - a tomb-mosque complex built by Afzal Khan for his own burial. It is said that this is the only two storey mosque in Bjapur. Afzal Khan was killed by Shivaji and his bodyguard at Pratapgad and lies buried at the base of the hill.
  6. Ibrahim Rauza - the grand tomb of Ibrahim Adil Shah II, his queen Taj Sultana and other family members. The tomb-mosque complex is situated just outside the fort, close to Malik-e-Maidan Tope.
  7. Baobab tree near Ibrahim Rauza - this is one of the trees planted by the Sufi Peers who had brought saplings from Africa. 
  8. Maili-e-Maidan Tope - one of the largest guns of Bijapur. The five-metal alloy cannon, situated on the western wall, doesn't heat up even during summer days.
  9. Uppli Buruj - also known as Hyder Buruj is a eighty feet high tower near Malik-e-Maidan Tope. The tower provides a good view of the neighborhood.
  10. Bara Kaman - the incomplete tomb of Ali Adil Shahi II. The plan was to build a tomb surpassing so tall that its shadow would reach Gol Gumbaz during sunset. 
  11. Siddarameshwar Devasthana - a shrine dedicated to the Lingayath Saint Sri Siddarameshwara of Solapur, Maharastra.
  12. Taj Baudi - one of the water bodies which still supplies fresh water. This is situated near Mecca Darwaza.
  13. Landa Kasab Tope - is the cannon on the southern wall, probably the largest surviving cannon of Bijapur.
  14. Fateh Darwaza - one of the five major entrances to the fort. The name means 'victory gate'. The name was given by Aurangzeb when he marched into the city on conquering it.
  15. Jod Gumbaz - the twin tombs of 1. Khan Muhammad and his son Khawas Khan and 2. Abdul Razaq Qadri, the religious teacher of Khawas Khan.
  16. Mehtar Mahal - is the ultra grand multi-storey entrance to a relatively simple mosque. The workmanship is intricate that it gives a feeling the structure is made of wood though its made of stone.
  17. Jumma Masjid - this is one of the biggest mosque of Bijapur. The mosque is known for its richly decorated Mehrab in gold paint. This mosque's construction started during Ali Adil Shah-I. Coloring of the Mehrab was carried out by Sultan Muhammad Adil Shah. Later when Aurangzeb conquered the city, he raised the ornamental green gateway on the eastern side.
  18. Gagan Mahal - means literally palace in sky. This building was supposedly a royal residence and court. While the Durbar was situated in the ground floor, the private apartments were situated on the upper floor. The building was constructed by Ali Adil Shah - I.
  19. Sat Manzil - this is a seven-storey apartment building close to Gagan Mahal.
  20. Jal Manzil - right opposite Sat Manzil is this little structure. As the name suggests, it is a water tank with a tower in the center.
  21. Mallika-e-Jahan Masjid - is situated to the west of Sat Manzil. It is also known as Janjiri Masjid.
  22. Asar Mahal - was built around 1640 by Sultan Muhammad Adil Shah. This was supposedly the hall of justice. Originally it was called as Dad Mahal.
  23. Adaulat Mahal - this is another hall of justice built by Sultan Muhammad Adil Shah.
  24. Arsh Mahal - is situated next to Adaulat Mahal. It was a pleasure house of the Adil Shah kings.
  25. Jahaz Mahal - this building resembles a ship hence the name. The two storey building is situated to the north of Asar Mahal; it was used for administration of Bijapur. 
  26. Chinch Diddi Masjid - this mosque is built on a bastion near Asar Mahal.
  27. Andu Masjid - this is a two storeyed building. The mosque is situated in the upper floor. It was built around 1608 CE by Eitibar Khan, a minister during Ibrahim Adil Shah - II and Muhammad Adil Shah. The mosque's dome is melon shaped and ribbed.
  28. Ali-ka-Rauza - is the tomb of Ali Adil Shah - I. It is situated near Andu Masjid.
  29. Mecca Masjid - this moque will have atleast one brick made of soil fom Mecca.
  30. Chand Baudi - this well was created in 1579 by Ali Adil Shah - I in honor of his wide Chand Bibi. The well is situated near Shahapur gate in the north-western part of the city.
  31. Sikander-ka-Rauza - tomb of Sikander Adil Shahi, the last of Adil Shahs is situated next to the tomb of Peer Nasrullah, his spiritual teacher.
  32. Faroukh Mahal - was buit by Yusuf Adil Shah for the use of royal house hold, Durbar, high level state officials, granary and armoury.
  33. Mustafa Khan Masjid - is situated close to the citadel on the eastern side.
  34. Badi Kaman - is a huge arch on the entrance to palace grounds. The arch is situated close to Mustafa Masjid.
  35. Ali Shahid Pir Masjid - this mosque is built by Ali Adil Shahi - I in honor of Hazrat Sayed Ali Shahid.
  36. Purana Jumma Masjid
  37. Tombs of Shaikh Hameed Qadri and Latifullah Qadri - they were two holy men who dies in 1602 and 1612. The tomb was built by Fatima Sultana, widow of Ali Adil Shah.
  38. Tomb of Shah Karim Muhammad Qadri - this is situated near the south-east corner of the courtyard of Jumma Masjid.
  39. Bukhari Masjid - is a small but beautiful looking building.
  40. Malik Sandal's Masjid and Rauza - situated close to Bukhari Masjid is the tomb of the man who designed and built Bijapur.
  41. Zamrud Masjid - with just 12 square feet area, this is is said to be the smallest mosque in Bijapur.
  42. Dhakhani Idgah - situated within the walls of Bijapur fort, the mosque is said to be built by Khwaja Najjar Ghaflet in 1538 during the rule of Ali Adil Shah - I.
  43. Chota Asar - is a small mosque situated to the east of Dhakhani Idgah. The mosque is known for its rich ornamentation in stucco which covers the walls,, ceiling and facade.
  44. Yaqut Daboli's Masjid and Rauza - tomb and mosque dedicated to Yaqut Daboli.
  45. Ibrahimpur Masjid - the mosque is situated a mile south of the fort. The mosque is said to be buuilt by Ibrahim Adil Shah in 1526 CE.
  46. Begum Talab - was constructed by Muhammad Adil Shah to supplement the water supply of the city. It is said that Afzal Khan was out in charge of the construction of this tank.
  47. Gol Gumbaz - the largest building of Bijapur is the tomb of Muhammad Adil Shah. Apart from its colossal size, the building's self-supporting dome and the echoing gallery are engineering marvels. Gol Gumbaz's dome is said to the second largest self supporting dome next to the dome of Vatican Cathedral.
  48. Naqquar Khana / Government Museum - the drum house of Gol Gumabaz has been converted into a museum of historical artifiacts.
  49. Aldi Buruj cannon on eastern wall- close to Gol Gumbaz, this cannon has somehow managed to remain on a bastion while most others have disappeared.
  50. Gigantic Shiva statue - The 85 foot tall statue is situated at Shivagiri on Ukkali road. A temple is built underneath the huge idol.
  51. Baobab tree of Yogapur Masjid - a tree planted by the Saufi Peers next to Yogapur Masjid and the tombs of Sayed Shah Imamuddin Quadri, Hazrath Sayed Shah Abdul Gafoor Quadri Shaheed Peeran and Sayeda Bibi Amatal Haleem.
  52. Ain-Ul-Mulk ka Rauza - tomb of Ain-Ul-Mulk, an officer in the court of Ibrahim Adil Shah.
  53. Jahan Begum's Tomb - This incomplete structure was planned on the same lines of Gol Gumbaz. If completed it would have been a copy of the great Gol Gummata in terms of size and looks.
The last four items in the above list are situated on the eastern side of Bijapur. To reach them you'll have to drive across the national highway towards Devar Hippargi. While the Shiva statue is on the right side, the other three spots are on the left hand side.

The remaining places are scattered around the district-
  1. Adil Shahi summer resort at Kummatgi - Kumatgi is situated 10 kms east of Bijapur on Sindhagi road. The summer resort was created by Mohammad Adil Shah between 1627 and 1656 CE. The resort consists of a lake, rows of tamarind trees, palaces & bath houses surrounded by gardens. It was a place for the royal family members to escape the searing heat of Bijapur plains. Even to this day, one can see the channels and towers which were used to fed the lake water to the bath house.
  2. Shri Mallayyana Devasthana, Devara Hipparagi - Mallayya is another name of Lord Shiva. Mallayya Devasthana is situated on the eatern outskirts of Hippargi town. The town is called Devara Hippargi because of Mallayya temple. The temple is ancient is knwon for its tall lamp tower. It is said that the light from this tower was visible at Bijapur at nights. The lamp tower guided travelers during night times.
  3. Tamarind trees of Hippargi -  At Mallayya Devasthana entrance are tamarind trees which are said to be 800 years old.
  4. Basavana Bagewadi – this is the birth place of Jagat Jyoti Basaveshwara. Bagewadi is about 45 kilometers from Bijpaur. The house where Basaveshwara was born has been converted into a memorial - Basava Smaraka. The town also has an ancient shrine names Basaveshwara Devalaya.
  5. Almatti Dam and Lal Bahadhur Shastri Sagar – The dam across river Krishna is the largest in Karnataka. Since it is located close to Almatti village, is is called as Almatti Dam. The dam's gardens are a great tourist attraction. The dam is about 56 kilometers from Bijapur.
  6. Shri Korwareshwar Devasthana, Korwar - this temple was established by Sri Shakaracharya. Korwar is about 60 kilometers from Bijpaur in Sindagi taluq.
  7. Gollaleshwar Devasthana, Golageri - Golageri is about 22 kilometers from Sindagi.

Apr 22, 2017

Sangameshwara Devasthana, Kudala Sangama

January 30, 2016
The spot where two or more rivers or streams meet (confluence) is called Sangama and such spots are considered sacred in Hinduism. When two rivers meet it is called Sangama and the where 3 rivers meet is called Triveni Sangama. Within the borders of Karnataka state are several confluences; the well known are Hemavati-Kaveri, Kabini-Kaveri, Arkavathi-Kaveri, Tunga-Bhadra, Ghataprabha-Krishna, Malaprabha-Krishna and Bheema-Krishna. Of all these confluences, Malaprabha-Krishna Sangama known as Kudala Sangama is the most visited. On the wedge shaped land between the two rivers stands the temple dedicated to Lord Shiva known by the name Sangameshwara Devasthana. The shrine has a long history.. the temple we see today is said to be built early 13th Century CE. However, it is said that it was originally built during Chalukyan period.

The east-facing temple is built of sandstone in Jain architecture. It has two entrances, one each on the eastern and northern walls. The temple interior has 4 parts - Mukhamantapa, Navaranga, Antarala and Garbhagriha. The centre of Navaranga is a dance floor surrounded by 4 beautifully carved pillars. In this hall are idols of Basaveshwara, Neelambike, twin-Basava and Ganapati. The Garbhagriha is preceded by a Torana, an arch rich in design depicting floral designs and animal figures. And finally in the Garbhagriha is a Shivalinga known by the name Sangameshwara or Sangamanatha or Sangamadeva.

Here's the temple, heavily modified to suit the needs of the day. Recalling from what I remember from the short visit with maternal relatives of early 80s. The temple stood on black-soil courtyard with barely any structure made of cement. The temple all stone structure.. probably its original condition. The circular wall was being built around the Aikya Mantapa which stood in the river bed close to the sloping bank. The well was being built to prevent the Aikya Mantapa from being submerged in Basava Sagar, the reservoir created by Narayanpur Dam. I was disappointed for not having seen the original spot :( I climbed the scaffolding around the well, managed to reach the top and got a glance at the Aikya Mantapa. However, I could not muster the courage to descend into the well. The next visit was in 2009, finally I could see Basavanna's Aikya Mantapa. Coming back to the present..

This is the bathing ghat next to the temple. Visitors can take bath in Basava Sagar.

This is the east-facing porch of the temple ~ Mukha Mantapa with Sukhanasi. A pair of elephants flank the entrance.

One of the beautifully carved tuskers with royal decorations.

This is the front view of the Navaranga Mantapa. In the center are the pair of the Basavas facing the deity in the Garbhagriha. Check out the Torana (arch) across the vestibule connecting the Navaranga Mantapa and Garbhagriha.

The Garbhagriha door-frame has multiple rings and includes pair of Dwarapala.

OmNamah Kudala Sangamadeva.

If you take a close look at the columns and walls, you can see they are pockmarked. Surely those wouldn't be part of original design. I inquired with the priest on duty. Any guesses how? It seems the pits were drilled to fit in decorative lights for a political event! Shocking to know who approved that brilliant idea. Wondering if any of the politicians ever felt a historic monument has been vandalized.

The pair of meditating Nandi. Their posture seems so serene.

The rear view of the temple. The lower rear portion is mostly original however the upper half is recently constructed.

This small plain structure is said to be the tomb of Jatadeva Muni, the ascetic who ran a  school where Basaveshwara was a student.

Close to the main entrance of the temple is an inscription in Kannada. The slab is damaged but the letters are legible. This is one of the two inscriptions found at Kudala Sangama.

Besides this temple, there are several modern constructions at Kudala Sangama such as museums and conference halls. Pilgrims visiting the place can stay here and enjoy its peaceful ambiance.