Sri Anjaneya Gudi, Badami north fort

Inside an Indian fort there has to be at least one idol of Anjaneya, the god of strength. Some forts have more than one shrine dedicated to Anjaneya. Inside the northern fort of Badami there are two shrines as I know, one each in the two routes to the summit. The two routes can be called eastern route and western route. The eastern route starts next Tattukoti temple group which also happens to be the starting point of Badami-Mahakoota footpath. 250 meters into the path, there's a staircase on the left hand side which goes straight to Anjaneya Gudi. That's Karun looking at the sandstone tower, at its base is the shrine.

Anjaneya's idol is carved on the rock itself and this structure has been erected to give shelter to the idol and people conducting pooja here. That's Karun son Mahottam walking across to join his father & sister who were checking our another shelter on our left.

Leaning on the wall is an ancient sculpture depicting a couple. The man is holding a bow, he must be an archer, and the woman must be his wife or lover. The sculpture seems to be a memorial honoring the memory of the warrior archer who might've lost life trying to protect this shrine.

That's Anjaneya's rock-cut image. Also there's a smaller idol placed in the corner. This shrine has been renovated recently, maybe a year or two ago. Normally Kannada text is seen in Karnataka however we have Devanagari text here. Probably the renovation was funded by a Hindi speaking group, like the group who look after Anjana Mandir on Anjanadri Betta near Anegundi. 

This place is usually deserted hence it is peaceful. Tourists rarely come here, mostly local people come here on Saturday's or Tuesdays. We noticed this oil-paint sketches next to the temple, surely the work of an artist. Maybe the same artist who painted the texts in the temple. The sketches depict Sun & Moon, a line of humanoid figurines, a matrix of dots, and a human figure seemingly a woman wearing jewelry.

I found this particular set interesting. A column of eight men heading towards the viewer. The artist has a great sense of perspective.

Before closing this post, let's take a look at the Anjaneya idol which can be seen when you take the western path. That path starts next to the museum. That too is a rock-cut image. Besides the image there are two sets of Kannada inscriptions here.

Om Namo Anjaneyam.

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Prehistoric diving platform

During an earlier visit to Badami, our guide Shri Satarkar showed us some spots seldom visited by tourists. These spots were along the southern shore of Agastya Thirta. We saw Vishnu Gudi & Koshtrayana Gudi, an unnamed rock shelter shrine and a diving platform. Yes, a diving platform which was created a long long time ago. May be during the Chalukyan times. Possibly in the prehistoric times.

Just trying to imagine the history of this platform. Before that, let me tell that the wall seen here is a recent creation, may be built late 2000s. Earlier the shoreline was well beyond the grooved boulder. Anyone could dive off the boulder into the water. Meanwhile some brilliant mind came up with the idea of adding a few more feet to the dive. The creative minds found a long slab and positioned it on the boulder so that the edge was right above the water surface. Who know how many people dived off this platform into the waters naturally charged with herbs and minerals. 

Here's a zoomed out view of the ancient platform, right at the base of the slope.

If you wish to see it for real, go to the southwestern corner of Agastya Thirta and walk along the shore. Take care not to step into water, can never say how deep these waters go. 

Despite seven or eight visits to Badami, I can't say that there's nothing new to see. If you explore deeply and look carefully, Badami is bound to surprise you. Here's the link to the previous post- What to see at Badami -which I expect to grow.

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Tea shop's catchy sketch

Srinu and I were on a two-day trip of Badami-Pattadakal-Aihole on Aug-29th & 30th. We had homemade chapati rolls for breakfast near Badami. As we entered Badami we found a tea shop close to the main T-junction of the town. We happened to notice this cool paint-sketch on the tea-shop wall. The painting depicts the classic way of mixing tea or coffee thoroughly. A beautiful work of art, whoever the artist is. Srinu, with his sense of humor charged up after a few sips of hot tea ...placed his tea-cup at the tea-fall!

That's the humble little tea shop at a very convenient location provided it's early morning. This road is really busy and crowded between 10AM and 9 PM. About the tea, Srinu liked it, I think he had two cups.

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Anantashayana and Koshtharaya rock-cut shrine, Badami

At the southeastern end of Bhootnath group is a cave shrine in which have rock-cut relief sculptures, the prominent one being of  Vishnu. Hence this is shrine called Vishnu Gudi. Just above the steps, the small opening between the floor and boulder is the temple entrance. One has to crouch to enter it.

Once inside, adults cannot really remain erect because of the low ceiling. We had to remain bent or had to kneel down. This temple is a combination of rock-cut and structural. Only the side walls have been built hence this is more of a rock-cut shrine. On the center wall is Anantashayana i.e. Vishnu reclining on the seven headed serpent Adishesha.  Vishnu is attended by Sridevi, Bhoodevi and Gaurda. Vishnu's symbols Shankha & Chakra are clearly seen. 

A closer look at Anantashayana. On the arch above are miniature images of Dashavatara i.e. the ten incarnations of Vishnu- Matsya, Kurma, Varaha, Narasimha, Vamana, Parashurama, Rama, Krishna, Buddha and Kalki.

The side walls are also decorated with relief sculptures. On the left are the Trimurti- Vishnu, Maheshwara & Brahma. On the space below Trimurti are incomplete images of Basavanna and unknown characters. Over the Trimurti is a grand looking Shikhara & Kalasha.

On the right is an interesting image of a seemingly royal couple seated in half-lotus posture. With the couple is a cow & nursing calf. Next to the cow is a plant.. coconut sapling? Then there are two other plants which seem like stalks of food grains. Is this possibly a scene of Sankranti being celebrated. There's another plant behind the cow which seems like a Peepul tree. Would be nice to an expert historians opinion.

Also in this cave shrine was a niche with a circular embossing. Since there's no deity in it, this seems like a nest to place an oil lamp.

A short distance from Vishnu Gudi is another rock shelter called Koshthraya's Cave. On the rear wall is an image of a man seated in half-lotus posture on a lion-throne under a peepul tree. There's a halo around his head. Apparently there are Shankha & Chakra, symbols of Vishnu. Then there is an imaginary creature to the man's left which is usually seen in Jaina images. For example- similar creature can be seen at the rock-cut Jaina Basadi at Aihole. Also there are two attendants both holding fans. He has a sacred thread around his torso. I'm not clear whose image this is.

One of the side walls has this image of a well built man sporting long hair and a well shaped beard.  He's seated in half-lotus position. There's a symbol on his forehead but it isn't clear. Next to him is a staff. Again no idea who this man depicts.

There are several rock shelter shrines on the slopes of Hiregudda, the sandstone hill of Badami. While on this topic I must mention Arali Honda or Aralikatte rock-cut shrine a the edge of the sandstone formation. It's not visible from here. To access it one has to reach the plateau and walk along the edge overlooking Agastyatirtha.

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Rock-cut shrines near Bhootnath temple complex

Right besides Bhootnath group is this huge sandstone boulder on which relief sculptures are present.

On the northern face are four Shivalinga, two of the Shivalinga have their own Nandi.

Closer look at the sculptures. Shivalingas are housed in Garbhagudi, complete with Shikhara.

Another view of the northern face. On the extreme left is an image of four-armed standing Vishnu.

As we go around the rock formation, a natural shelter is seen. The rock faces under the overhang are filled with sculptures of Hindu gods.

There are two rows; the lower row consists of ten male characters in seated position, mostly in meditative position. Most of the images have been damaged, seemingly an intentional act of vandalism. The upper row, left to right, has Boovaraha, Ganapati, Brahma, Maheshwara, Vishnu, Mahishamarshini and Ugranarasimha. To the extreme right is a Shivalinga inside a Garbhagudi. Each of the characters have an arch, probably incomplete arches. Just above the arches are inscriptions of signatures in Kannada. I guess those are sculptors' banes. Over the inscriptions are seven square holes, five small and two large. It's my guess those are meant for placing oil lamps.

On the other face under the overhang are three images; one complete and two incomplete. On the left is Shivalinga inside Garbhagudi; in the middle is standing Vishnu with incomplete housing; and to the right is an image in very early stages. For some reason work was abandoned. On the lower part of the face is a small Shivalinga. Further lower and to the left is a square outline. Looks like that's another incomplete Shivalinga.

As we go around the boulder to the opposite side. a small structural temple is present. The temple has been built in a very tight space. From here it looks as though a cube has been pushed into the boulder.

On the left of the footpath is a boulder with natural slits. The lower slit which is open to sky catches rainwater. The ancient sculptors made a narrow groove to funnel out water. The boulder isn't large enough to hold water to sustain a flow lasting more than an hour. Maybe it lasted more than what I ca imagine.

Caretakers have maintained a neat lawn and flowering plants here. The pink Oleanders and green leaves enhance the place's charm.

Another look at the squeezed in temple. The more I look at this temple, the more I admire the clever idea.

This seems to be another incomplete rock-cut shrine. Not sure is this was meant to be a rock-cut shrine or a combination of rock-cut and structural temple.

View of the spot from an elevated spot.

This is my friend Srini from Hyderabad. Srinu and I were on a two-day tour of Badami, Pattadakal and Aihole. Our tour had started from the four cave temples. Then we drove around to the North fort side. We had done quite a bit of walking under the blazing sunlight. We took a short break while it was partly cloudy. This waterbody is home to water fowls and other water birds.

At a distance was a flock of cormorants resting on rocks amidst the waters. Cormorants are good fliers and swimmers. With their webbed feet, they swim well on the surface and even underwater. The way they take from water is a sight to behold.

Turning back the sandstone formations, I noticed a unique feature here. On the surface were irregular lines which looked like dried sticky matter.

On the lower part of this picture, there are bands of lighter shades. Amazing how this texture came into being. Sandstone, a sedimentary rock, is formed when grains of quartz or feldspar are held together under pressure for millions of years. During the process other minerals too get trapped and remain embedded in sandstones.

A closer look at the dripping and sliding lines. Is it possible that some matter were squeezed out under pressure, like concrete escaping through gaps of centering plates.

Lastly, at the end of Bhootnath group enclosure is a rock-cut cave shrine known as Vishnu Gudi. Inside that cave temple are several images, the chief image being that of Anantashayana. We'll see Vishnu Gudi in detail in the following post.

In the above picture, on the left hand side are two incomplete images. Once is Ganapati for sure. The other image could be meant to be Vishnu. Having written this post, I feel I must visit Bhootnath group again and catch up with missed out sculptures.

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Bhootnath temple complex, Badami

Situated at one corner of Badami, Bhootnath group receives the least number of visitors. Of the tourists coming here, most are city folks or foreigners since the place is mostly free from hordes, most times it has a peaceful ambiance. The best part is the charm of the waterbody - Agastyatirtha. Then there are young couples looking for privacy find this place convenient. 

This group consists of 8 temples including the small ones. The largest structure of the group is Bhootnath Gudi and other would be dedicated to other deities. Then there are a dozen or so relief sculptures on the huge boulder a stone's throw away. On the boulder are two small structures as well. I'm not sure if those rock-cut shrines and smaller temples are part of Bhootnath group. Totally there are 12 structural temples and more than a dozen rock-cut shrines.

I've visited this group three or four times, the memorable ones being in Sept 2012 and Aug 2023. During my earlier visit there were information boards which describe this monument as below.

ಭೂತನಾಥ ಸಂಕೀರ್ಣ
ಶ್ರೀ ಪೈಗರ ಶ್ರೀಧರ ಭೂತೇಶ್ವರ' ಎಂದು ಎಂಟನೆಯ ಶತಮಾನದ ಶಾಸನದಲ್ಲಿ ಉಲ್ಲೇಖಿತವಾದ ಭೂತನಾಥ ದೇವಾಲಯವು ಮುಖ್ಯವಾಗಿರುವ ಈ ದೇವಾಲಯಗಳ ಸಂಕೀರಣದಲ್ಲಿನ ಈ ದೇವಾಲಯ ಹಲವು ಬಾರಿ ಜೀರ್ಣೋದ್ದಾರಗೊಂಡಿದೆ. ಇದರ ಮುಂದಣ ಒಂದು ಶಾಸನದಲ್ಲಿ "ಕರಿಯಮ್ಮ ಸ್ಥಾನದ ದೀವಿಗೆ" ಎಂದಿದೆ. ಈ ಸಂಕಿರಣದ ಈಶಾನ್ಯಕ್ಕೆ ಒಂದು ರಾಷ್ಟ್ರಕೂಟರ ಕಾಲದ ಮಂದಿರವಿದ್ದು ಅದರಲ್ಲಿ ಲಕುಳೀಶನ 7 ಇಲ್ಲವೇ 8ನೆಯ ಶತಮಾನದ ಪೂಜಾ ಮೂರ್ತಿಯಿದೆ. ಇಲ್ಲಿ ಕಲ್ಯಾಣ ಚಾಳುಕ್ಯರ ಕಾಲದ ಹಲವು ಗುಡಿಗಳಿದೆ.

The Bhutanatha Group
This group has the main temple called 'Sri Paigara Shridhara Bhuteshwara' in a record of the eighth century. The temple has undergone repairs many times, and is a simple structure. An inscription in front speaks of "Kariyamma Sthanada Divige." There is a Rashtrakuta temple to its north-east with Lakulisha image within and the image is assigned to the 7th or 8th Century. There are many shrines of Kalyana Chalukya times around this.

The temples in this group are either west-facing or south-facing except one north-facing temple. The temple seen here in the background is the second largest here. In the background is the boulder with two temples on its top.

A closer look at the boulder-top temples. The only access to these temples has been blocked out of concern for tourist safety, maybe there are other reasons. Ancient builders imagination and ability to build at unusual location is simply amazing.

Turning our attention to the main cluster. The temples ate packed together leaving ample space around the cluster. As you see, this group of temples have access to the waters of  Agstyatirtha. This waterbody is fed by the streams flowing down the sandstone hill. 

When there's a good rainfall, a waterfall appears on the cliff. It's a sight to behold. This is the entrance to Bhootnath group. On the left is a special pillar, unsure of its purpose.

The first temple as we enter the cluster. This could be the Rastrukuta temple with an image of Lakulisha. Lakulisha is said to be the 28th and the avatar of Shiva. He is depicted with a lakut (mace) hence the name. Lakulisha is considered as the founder of the Pashupata sect and propounder of Yoga system.

Here's the idol of Lakulisha.

A smaller temple with a sloping canopy.

Rear view of the group. The well preserved Shikhara of Bhootnath temple seems to be a Vimananagari type. Shikhara of smaller temples are stepped pyramids. I feel these are experimental models like the temples of Galaganatha group at Aihole.

Rear diagonal view of Bhootnath Gudi. It's a beautiful structure with a wide pillared hall with two side entrances i.e. northern and southern sides.

At the southern entrance is a pillar similar to the one seen at the group entrance (fourth picture). At the first glance they look similar but with a small difference in the orientation of drilled holes . The pillar here seems to be a torch holder.

The side entrances are right next to the Antarala walls (vestibule). On the right hand side is a damaged sculpture. The reminder of the image is intriguing... what could that have been? Going by the looks of the interior, it seems this temple has been modified at least once. May be this hall was extended to accommodate more people.

Right opposite the Garbhagudi (sanctum) sits Nandi, and behind Nandi is a chamber which seems like a secondary sanctum. If it is another sanctum, we could call this temple a Dwikutachala.

A view of the packed space between the structures.

There goes Srinu my friend from Hyderabad. We were on a tour of the Chalukyan realm- Badami, Pattadakal and Aihole, Srinu's first visit here.

These small structures can be seen even at Pattadakal temple complex. In fact there are even smaller ones, 2" cubical temples. I feel these little structures were assignments or projects for apprentice sculptors.

Ancient builders planning was so careful, every little detail was looked into. Ancient temple sites rarely disrupted natural flow of rainwater around them. Same applies to Bhootnath group. The rainwater flows downhill forming a stream which joins Agstyatirtha right next to the group. On the left side of the picture is a small bridge, that's where the water flows in from. I really must visit here during a rainy season... wishing, hoping & praying for good rains this season.

Done with Bhootanath group of structural temples we move ahead to see the rock-cut shrines.

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