Pampa Sarovara and Vijayalakshmi Mandir, Kishkinda

The first time I heard and saw Pampa Sarovara was June 23, 2012. This is another spot connected to Ramayana. It is said that during the exile Rama and Lakshmana visited this place which is a part of Kishkinda kingdom. The brothers bathed in this pond and hence considered a holy spot.

Dec 10, 2024. This is an aerial view of the pond nestled in an valley formed by the slopes of Rishimukha Betta. At the top-right corner is another watery patch which is Tungabhadra waters. See how close Pampa Sarovara is close to Tungabhadra.

Coming closer to the ground level. This is a view from the viewing platform behind Vijayalakshmi Devastana. This spot was much more greener back in 2012. More than a dozen large trees dotted the pond's perimeter back then. I don't understand why trees are removed in the name of development.

Panning to the left, Vijayalakshmi Devastana comes into view. Here too there were two Neem trees in 2012. The temple premises looks so desolate. I wish the engineers had left those trees alone.

Panning more to the left.. Sridhar comes into view. We were on a 3-day tour of Anjandari, Anegundi and Hampi. This was the second day. The day had started off with a trek up Anjanadri Betta. At the top we spent a peaceful half-an-hour.

Right below the viewing platform is a cavern, a natural rock shelter. During our visit, there was a tourist group of elderly folks. The group had descended except for the eldest who was enjoying a solitary moment at the top. I just loved the way he's perched himself on the railings, like a child.

Here's Sridhar posing in the mouth of the cavern. We did check the interior which can accommodate four or five grownup men. The shelter might have been a meditation chamber in the past.

That's a side view of Vijayalakshmi Mandir. On the left is an open pillared hall. The temple and mantapa are ancient structures, built during Vijayanagara time. However their history of this temple goes back much longer... back to Ramayana period.

This mantapa is comfortable for resting in the afternoon i.e. when sun is the western side.

We went around the pond. This is the northeastern corner. This is where a freshwater stream flowing down from Rishimukha Betta falls into this pond. I don't remember seeing this during my last visit.

View from the southeastern corner.

I wish local people plant a few Neem saplings around the pond. Surely greenery will have a charming effect and keep the surroundings cooler.

On the rocks around the vehicle parking space warning notices were painted. The messages warned people to keep distance from river otters since their bites cause grievous injuries. I was surprised to know that river otters existed in our state. I actually saw one big otter at Chakra Tirtha during another visit in Jan 2025. I saw it only for a couple of seconds when it surfaced and dove back after seeing people.

......... 

Granaries at Hampi

Hampae being the Rajdhani of the thriving Vijayanagara Samrajya was a populous city. The city was the largest trade center which means it supported a great amount of floating population besides it's own residents, both civilian and military. And in those times transportation force consisted of animals like oxen, horses, camels and elephants. This combination of people & beasts required a certain quantity of food, water and shelter. Hampae had ample guest houses and stables. It's well known that it had an elaborate aqua network consisting of tanks, canals and aqueducts. Coming to food, we have already seen the remains of a Bhojanashala, a dining area. Surely there would be many such dining areas with easy access to granaries. There would be small and large granaries, both aboveground and subterranean. A stone's throw from Hazara Rama Devastana are the ruins of granaries which are mostly aboveground.

There are two circular walls measuring approximately 45 feet in diameter, 4 feet high and 4 feet thick. I guess the walls were much higher and domed top just like the granaries at Badami fort.

The granary walls have been restored to the present condition. 

There are rectangular structures as well. This isn't the only one, there are several of them. In fact this particular enclosure is quite large with one part of it under excavation.

Here's another structure situated on a mound.

The ground in this enclosure is littered with broken bits of earthenware like pots and bowls. Surely larger artifacts found at this site would be preserved in archaeological offices and museums.

These are the granaries which have been restored for the benefit of tourists. There would be hundreds more neglected and lost. The subterranean granaries would've collapsed due to lack of care. Apart from earthen granaries, wooden storage bins were also in use at temples and palaces. Wondering how many of them have survived.

.........

a few shots of Anjanadri Betta

Here are a few shots of Anjanadri Betta, the birth place of Hanuman known for his strength, unwavering devotion, and humility.

ಜೈ ಶ್ರೀ ಹನುಮಾನ್

The first picture was shot from ground and all the remaining from air. These pictures were shot on two different days- Dec 10th 2024 and Jan 30th 2025.

Jai Sri Hanuman

......... 

Band tower, Hampi

In the ruins of Hampi there are quite a few stone-brick-mortar structures which have withstood the forces of Nature and meddling human hands too. Naming a few such structures- Lotus Mahal, Treasury building, watch towers of Zenana enclosure, Queen's bath house, Octagonal water pavilion, Domed gateway, watch tower at Dhandanayaka enclosure, and the Band tower. These are the ones I can recall, there could be a few more.

The Band tower is situated inside the Dhandanayaka (military commander) enclosure. The two tier tower is an octagonal structure with massive columns and arches. Attached to the octagonal tower is a cuboid structure housing the staircase. The staircase looks like an extra fitting. Maybe the original design did not have a staircase at all. One had to use ladders to reach the upper level which wouldn't be convenient for many. Then the aesthetics had to be sacrificed for the sake of safety. 

Talking about the purpose of this building- this wasn't meant to be a band tower for sure. The building looks more suitable for personal relaxation. It seems like the commander's office and lodge since it's a part of the military compound. The lower level is to meet people and the upper level for confidential meetings, entertainment and rest.

It's architecture is similar to that of Kamal Mahal, the lotus palace, a mix of Hindu and Islamic ideas. In the background is another structure which happens to be a mosque built over a base which is was meant for a temple or a kalyana mandapa or a palace.

The structure is quite big. The side and rear walls have projections, probably roof beams.

So here's the mosque with three beautiful arches. Looks like there was a plan to expand the mosque hence the extending side walls. The roofing somehow did not happen I guess.

Both the side walls have arched niches. Looks like this was meant to be a grand structure. Now take a closer look at the lower part of the picture. Such sculptures are seen in Hindu structures like temples or mandapas.

Floral art and panels depicting elephants, lions and warriors. Unsure if it's a scene showing wild beasts being tamed.

Such sculptures can be seen on the side and front portion of the base. Wondering why the building plan changed. Surely an abrupt change that was.

Within the Dhandanayaka enclosure are few other structures which could be a store house for arms or a horse stable. Also there's a standalone wall with an arched niche. At the entrance of the enclosure is a watch tower. I'll cover those structures in the following post.

.........

Lokapavani, stepped well of Pattabhirama Devastana

Lokapavani, the stepped water tank of Pattabhirama Gudi is just 300 meters away. The rectangular tank has steps on all four sides. Also there are remains of colonnades at two corners. Going by the look of the colonnade, it seems like an incomplete project.

At the center of the tank is a four pillared mandapa with a Shikhara. The mandapa has been repaired in recent times by adding buttresses. I guess this tank was fed naturally i.e. groundwater. There's no arrangement of external source.

Many tanks of Vijayanagara times have central mandapa. Wondering what purpose it served. The water tank at Kanakagiri, close to Shri Kanakachala Lakshminarasimha Devastana, too has a mandapa at its center.

An incomplete colonnade along the western edge.

As seen from the eastern side. Beyond the vegetation in the background is Pattabhirama Gudi.

This water tank is need of maintenance. I think government must come up with a scheme which lets ASI employ tourist volunteers for cleaning projects. That way tourism will have another dimension. Perhaps the volunteers can be rewarded in a way of discounts at state owned lodges & restaurants.

Amazing that these free standing pillars and beams are in equilibrium for the past five and half centuries.

In the present day, men cannot make use of these historical water tanks but no one can stop creatures of Nature. A cormorant relaxes on the steps. Looks like that spot is a favorite.. the white stains of droppings say that.

Cormorants are waterbirds hence they are seen near waterbodies. They are expert swimmers, divers and good at flying too. A gifted creature indeed. These two are having a peaceful moment on the mandapa's canopy.

Done with the watertank, we head towards the Domed Gateway, a five minute walk away.

......... 

Pattabhirama Devastana, Hampi

Dec 9th 2025. Our day started early, Sridhar and I drove from Dharwad to Hampi with a breakfast stop between Gadag and Koppal. A few kilometers after Hampi we stopped briefly to check out Agasi and Kuparama Vatika, the ancient gateway of Hampi and the octagonal shaped well. Then we stopped at  Anantashayana Gudi at 9-00. We spent about 30 minutes admiring the humongous structure. The next stop on our morning itinerary was Pattabhirama Gudi, Lokapavani, Domed gateway, and a Shivalaya. The first three were situated at Kamalapur while the last one was a few kilometers away on Kamalapur-Daroji road.

Pattabhirama Gudi is one of the largest and well preserved temples of Hampi. It's a large complex comprising of the main temple, a secondary temple, a pillared hall, an open well, tourist shelter along the perimeter, a Gopura on the eastern wall, a kitchen and wide open space around the temples. The eastern entrance is blocked and the southern entrance is the only way to access the complex.

Here's the transcription of the description of Pattabhirama Gudi:

ಪಟ್ಟಾಭಿರಾಮ ದೇವಾಲಯ 

ಶ್ರೀರಾಮ ದೇವರ ದೇವಾಲಯವನ್ನು ಪ್ರಾಚೀನ ಸ್ಥಳವಾದ ವರದರಾಜಮ್ಮನ ಪಟ್ಟಣ ಎಂಬಲ್ಲಿ ತನ್ನ ಮಡದಿಯ ನೆನಪಿಗಾಗಿ ಅಚ್ಯುತರಾಯನು ಸ್ಥಾಪಿಸಿದನು. ಇದರ ಕಾಲ 16 ನೇ ಶತಮಾನ. ಈ ದೇವಾಲಯವು ಪೂರ್ವಾಭಿಮುಖವಾಗಿದ್ದು ಗರ್ಭಗೃಹ, ಅಂತರಾಳ, ಅವುಗಳ ಸುತ್ತಲೂ ಪ್ರದಕ್ಷಿಣಾಪಥ. ನಂತರ ಸಭಾಮಂಟಪ, ಮಹಾಮಂಟಪವನ್ನು ಒಳಗೊಂಡಿದೆ. ಇವೆಲ್ಲವೂ ಚೌಕಾಕಾರವಾಗಿವೆ. ಆವರಣದ ವಾಯುವ್ಯದಲ್ಲಿ ಅಮ್ಮನವರ ಗುಡಿ ಮತ್ತು ಆಗ್ನೆಯದಲ್ಲಿ ಕಲ್ಯಾಣಮಂಟಪ ಇವೆ. ಇವೆಲ್ಲವನ್ನು ಪ್ರಾಕಾರವು ಸುತ್ತುವರಿದಿದ್ದು, ಅದಕ್ಕೆ ಉತ್ತರ ಮತ್ತು ದಕ್ಷಿಣದಲ್ಲಿ ಪ್ರವೇಶದ್ವಾರಗಳು ಮತ್ತು ಪೂರ್ವದಲ್ಲಿ ಐದು ಅಂತಸ್ತಿನ ಗೋಪುರವಿದೆ. ಪ್ರಾಕಾರದ ಒಳಮುಖವು ಸ್ತಂಭಗಳಿಂದ ಕೂಡಿದೆ. ಸಭಾಮಂಟಪಕ್ಕೆ ಉತ್ತರ ಮತ್ತು ದಕ್ಷಿಣ ದಿಕ್ಕುಗಳಲ್ಲಿ ಮುಖಮಂಟಪಗಳಿವೆ: ವಿಶಾಲವಾದ ಮಹಾಮಂಟಪದಲ್ಲಿ ವಿವಿಧ ರೀತಿಯ 58 ನಯವಾದ ಸಂಕೀರ್ಣ ರೂಪದ ಕಂಬಗಳಿವೆ. ಪೂರ್ವ, ಉತ್ತರ ಮತ್ತು ದಕ್ಷಿಣ ದಿಕ್ಕುಗಳಲ್ಲಿ ಕೈಪಿಡಿಗಳಿರುವ ಮೆಟ್ಟಿಲುಗಳಿವೆ. ಕಂಬಗಳ ಮೇಲೆ ವೈಷ್ಣವ ದೇವತೆಗಳು, ಹನುಮಂತ, ಗರುಡ, ನರ್ತಕರು, ಸಂಗೀತ ವಾದ್ಯ ಮೇಳದವರು, ಯಾಳಿ, ಇತ್ಯಾದಿಗಳ ಉಬ್ಬುಶಿಲ್ಪಗಳಿವೆ. ಗರ್ಭಗೃಹದ ಮೇಲೆ ಮೂರು ಅಂತಸ್ತಿನ ದ್ರಾವಿಡ ಶೈಲಿಯ ಶಿಖರವಿದೆ. ಅಮ್ಮನವರ ಗುಡಿಯು ಪೂರ್ವಾಭಿಮುಖವಾಗಿದ್ದು, ಗರ್ಭಗೃಹ, ಅಂತರಾಳ ಮತ್ತು ಸಭಾಮಂಟಪವನ್ನು ಹೊಂದಿದೆ. ಇದಕ್ಕೆ ಎರಡು ಅಂತಸ್ತಿನ ಶಾಲಾ ಶಿಖರವಿದೆ.. ಕಲ್ಯಾಣಮಂಟಪವು ದಕ್ಷಿಣ ದಿಕ್ಕಿನ ಪ್ರಾಕಾರದ ಗೋಡೆಗೆ ಹೊಂದಿಕೊಂಡು ನಿರ್ಮಿತವಾಗಿದ್ದು ಉತ್ತರ ದಿಕ್ಕಿಗೆ ಮುಖಮಾಡಿದೆ. ಇದರ ಕಂಬಗಳ ಮೇಲೆ ಮಹಾಮಂಟಪದಲ್ಲಿ ಕಂಡುಬರುವಂತಹ ಉಬ್ಬುಶಿಲ್ಪಗಳಿವೆ.

This temple, dedicated to Rama was built in the ancient city of Varadajammana Pattana founded by Achyutaraya, named after his wife. The temple is dated to 16th century CE. The temple faces east and consists of a garbhagriha (sanctum), an antarala (antechamber), a pradakshinapatha (circumambulatory passage) around garbhagriha and antarala, a sabhamandapa (pillared hall), a mahamandapa (a large pillared hall). It also has an Amman shrine in the northwest and a kalyanamandapa in the southeast. All these are enclosed in a prakara wall with entrances on the north and south and a five storeyed gopura on the east. The inner face of the prakara wall is lined with colonnades. The garbhagriha, antarala, sabhamandapa and mahamandapa are all square. The sabhamandapa has on its north and south sides mukhamandapas. The spacious mahamandapa stands on 58 slender composite pillars of various types and has flight of steps flanked by balustrades on east, north and south. The pillars have depictions of Vaishnava deities, Hanuman, Garuda, dancers, drummers, yali, etc. The superstructure over the garbhagriha is a three storeyed Dravida style shikhara. The Amman shrine faces east and has a garbhagriha, an antarala, and a sabhamandapa. It has a two storeyed shala shikhara. The kalyanamandapa, built abutting the south prakara wall faces north and has sculptural scheme similar to that of mahamandapa.

A view of the open pillared shelter for tourists and pilgrims. Sridhar remarked that tying a sheet of cloth across pillars will create a 'cubicle' for those who wanted little privacy. Maybe slots were allotted on the basis of the number of members of a group. I'm wondering if bullock carts were allowed inside for convenience. Maybe yes since the gateway floor is flushed to the ground (see previous image).

Here's a screen-shot taken from Google Maps, the aerial view with individual components marked.

A - Gopura on eastern entrance

B - the main temple

C - Kalyana Mantapa

D - southern entrance

E - secondary temple

F - kitchen

Between the main temple and Gopura is a small mantapa with two pillars holding a wall. I guess this is an incomplete temple since there's a Shikhara sitting over the beams. The Gopura and Shikhara, both built of brick and mortar seem to be built during the same period of time.

Gopura as seen through the incomplete temple. The granite blocks are really well finished. I guess even the least trained apprentice sculptor could produce such blocks in the ancient times.

Here's a diagonal view of the main temple which happens to be dedicated to Sri Rama. As per archaeological sources, this was built during King Ahyutaraya's rule. Incidentally, the temple presently known as Achyuthraya Devastana which was dedicated to Sri Krishna was also built around the same time. Coming back to Pattabhirama Gudi, it has a large mahamandapa i.e. the outer meeting hall. It's a sixty four pillared hall arranged in a 8x8 matrix like a chess board. Each of the pillars four faces carry three images each which makes it twelve per pillar. The outer pillars are exceptions since their designs are slightly different.

Sridhar climbs the balustraded steps and about to step into the sixty four pillared hall. Among all the temples of Hampi, this is one of the best preserved. Of course, some parts of the temple have been repaired. The two balustrades feature a imaginary creature called the Yali. Such balustrades can be seen in Chalukyan temples as well but they might've been added during Hoysala or Vijayanagara times.

A view of the pillared hall. The foremost pillar has images of Hanuman and a squatting lion. At the top are images of Garuda and a dancing girl. Likewise, if one checks out each of the pillars, one can feel the creativity of the ancient sculptors through this imagery.

From the mahamandapa, we step into the sabhamandapa, the inner meeting hall. This hall has two side entrances placed on the northern and southern sides. At the center of the hall is the Rangamandapa in which dance performances used to take place.

This is the mandapa sheltering the southern side. The doorway has been reinforced with additional support in recent times. In this view, the temple's Shikhara comes into view. Unlike Hoysalas and Chalukyas. Vijayamagara builders preferred brick & mortar towers to stone towers. I guess the thought behind brick & mortar Shikhara was to reduce the load over the lower structure.

The three storeyed Dravida style shikhara.

Coming around to the rear of the complex. The secondary temple comes into view which is dedicated to Amma as per the information board. Even this temple has undergone repair work. A reinforcement wall has been added to support the original structure.

This is the northern side of Pattabhirama Gudi. The exterior walls are almost plain except for the niches. Originally every niche would've had a particular deity.

Sridhar checks out Amma temple from outside, we had no thought of stepping in. The pillars  of the sabhamabdapa are plain but have the standard three sections. There's only one entrance to this temple which is in alignment to the Garbhagriha door. The front steps are flanked by balustrades featuring elephants.

Turning attention back to the main temple; this is the northern side. The side entrance is similar to the southern entrance. In plan the temple is symmetric in the east-west axis.

At the northeastern corner of the complex are the kitchen house and an open  well. Surely a permanent kitchen is required since a Kalyana Mantapa is present. Vijayanagara temples are the best organized for celebrating cultural events like birthdays, weddings, naming ceremonies, etc. The required infrastructure was in place. In fact part of the pillared shelter along the compound wall was also used as dining area.

The five tiered Gopura has withstood the tests of time. Most of the plaster has peeled off making it east for vegetation to thrive on the structure, yet the building blocks have held together. That's the quality of ancient works. As you see the passage is gated, obviously to keep out vandals.

Wish I could see this grand structure in it's original form. The stucco figures have managed to hold on but they are crumbling slowly. I guess there's a limit to maintenance spending, we have to accept that fact. Ultimately, everything has to bow down to Nature.

Frontal view of the main temple. The mahamandapa has concealed every other part of the temple including the Shikhara. The Shikhara remains hidden because of the temple's length. This structure's footprint is approximately 68m x 28m which comes to 1900 square meters. The entire complex measures 166m x 96m which comes to 16000 square meters. Wow!

This north-facing pillared hall is the Kalyana Mantapa. The day being cloudy, photos are rather dull. The pillars are decorative and awe-inspiring. One could spend hours gazing at the figures on the pillars.

Pillars along the edges are complex compared to the inner ones. However the pillars of the Ranga Mantapa or the central stage are complex too, at times the most decorative pillars there.

Done with the tour of this temple we head towards the Pushkarni which is about 200 meters away. Every temple must have a source of water. The ancient builders made sure of that and built stepped tanks or dug wells. Life back then was simple but wholesome, I guess.

.........