Dec 26, 2020

Channabasaveshwara Gudi, Ulavi

Ulavi is one of the remotest shrines. Nestled deep inside the Western ghats, the roads leading to Ulavi traverse over hills, pass through valleys, go across streams and rivers. The journeys are interesting as long as one is okay being moved around in a closed vehicle. I've visited Ulavi three times earlier- first to attend a wedding, second time was a solo drive on humid day which eventually turned into a rainy afternoon, and the third time was with my brother and niece. We stayed overnight and the following morning we visited two caves - Pachalinga Gavi and Aakal Gavi. There are many more caves and ancient temples around Ulavi but one needs time and energy to visit them. I had hopes of seeing few during my future visits.

August 26, 2020
This visit was planned two days ahead, as soon as we saw a break in the rainfall. We- uncle, aunt, Pushpa and I- left Dharwad around 7-45 AM, despite heavy rains the roads were okay for a small car. We passed through Haliyal and Dandeli. Just across river Kali, we stopped to fill the thermos with tea as we had planned to stop at Syntheri rocks for breakfast. We were the only four at Syntheri rocks parking lot where we had bread, cheese, Kemp-chutnee, Pundiplaya, a sweet and tea. We descended into the valley for a look at the monolith and river Kaneri. The river was gushing fiercely through the rocks, kicking up a light mist. The new thing here was the open air museum of rock specimens along the stairs descending into the valley. However, we couldn't stay long because of sultry conditions. We left the spot and resumed our journey towards Ulavi.

It was cloudy and we expected rains but surprisingly it was a dry day. No surprises in the jungle like fallen trees or bamboo. Soon we reached the arch of Ulavi Channabasaveshwara Gudi. From here the temple is about 12 km. This is a junction of three roads- roads going towards Ulavi, Dandeli and Joida.

It was around noon when reached the temple. Being midweek, there weren't too many people. This is the gateway of Channabasaveshwara Gudi. The gateway is crowned by a mantap with a life size idol of Channabasaveshwara.

Channabasaveshwara, nephew of Jagatjyoti Basaveshwara, was one of the prominent Shivasharanas of Kalyana Kranti the social revolution of XII Century. Kalyana was the capital of Kalachuri king Bijjala's capital. Due to misplaced trust the Shivasharanas were persecuted which results in mass exodus. The Shivasharanas scatter in three groups going in different directions, two of which travel south and eventually reach Ulavi which was a part of Kadamba kingdom.

The Shivasharanas settle here. Their leader Channabasaveshwara attains Samadhi and his tomb becomes a shrine for his followers. A temple is built over the shrine. With time Ulavi becomes popular attracting people from all over north Karnataka. There are people who visit Ulavi once a year at least - especially to attend the annual fair which takes place in Jan or Feb. Besides buses and cars, people travel by foot, bicycles, even bullock carts. The pilgrims make sure they enjoy the journey and the destination as well.

The temple obviously has undergone lot of changes over the centuries. Today we have here a cement and steel structure in the traditional design. The Shikhara is a eight sided structure with a dome. Each of the eight faces has a niche in which idols depicting prominent Shivasharana's are placed. The two seen in this view are Abiger Choudayya and Madara Channayya. The next tier i.e. just below the dome has sixteen idols. Any one keenly observing the Shikhara will learn/remember the names of Shivasharanas who first strove to improve social conditions and then to protect Vachana Sahitya (collection of literature composed by Shivasharanas).

The temple has a spacious courtyard with few trees. This open space is a good place for visitors to relax or to pass time while waiting. Around the courtyard are lodging for the visitors' convenience.

The largest tree here is the Arali-Mara ~ Peepal tree. The tree is said to be 800+ years old. A lore says that a cradle used to be hung from the tree in which Shivasharanas attained Aikya as the cradle swung. In my opinion, this tree looks quite new. Probably a tree did exist here which was replaced by this new tree. At the base of the tree is a natural stone which resembles a bull.

Here's the stone which does resemble a bull in sitting position hence revered as Basava.

The temple as seen from the front. This is an east-facing temple but the premises is accessible to public only from the southern side. On the eastern side is a gateway which opens into the paddy fields. Next to the temple eastern gateway is a Kalyani ~ an open stepped well for pilgrims to bathe.

The temple interior. The Garbhagudi has a silver arch and all the idols are of silver. The sight of the main deity covered in colorful flowers is a pleasant sight, a sight to behold. The priests are very efficient here.. performed the rituals quickly yet gave ample time to see the deities.

This is the Kalyani. I wish people had a better civic sense.. instead of discarding soap wrappers in and around the tank, they could've put them into the trash cans. I pray that people start thinking of others as well rather than themselves - then the thought of "let the next person too have a nice experience" has a chance.

The temple southern gateway as seen from the inside. On the right are the newer rooms and administrative office. On the left is a small bus-stop like shelter where a series of pictures with captions are displayed. The series narrates the story of Shivasharanas journey from Kalyana to Ulavi. The pictures are originally paintings by S S Hiremath of Itagi village near Kittur.

Pilgrims need not worry about meals here because the temple provides free meals everyday between noon and 6-00 PM. It was around 12-45 when we finished our temple visit. It was a but too early for lunch as we had had late breakfast. So we decide to see a temple or two close by. It was a minute's climb to Anjaneya temple. This is the view of Channabasaveshwara temple from Anjaneya temple. The tree dominating the temple yard is the Aralimara. I wish the place was more photography friendly.

After 20 minutes or so we went back to the temple, headed straight to the lunch hall. Dasoha Prasada was Sajka, Shira, Palya, Anna-Saru and Limbi Uppinkayi. The items were simple yet so tasty. I would've gone for another helping if we had plans of staying back. I find it difficult to travel with a full tummy, so. After lunch we spent some time at the temple. Then the ladies wanted to pick up circular stone slabs to grind sandal paste. I had Pushpa buy a Vibhuti cake as well. Done with shopping we wanted to check out the other temples, few of which were inside the jungle. A temple worker advised us against venturing into the temple due to leeches. So we dropped the plan and visited the ones next to the main street i.e. Yetti Kayuva Basavana Gudi and Veerabhadra Gudi.

Veerabhadra Gudi is at the end of the street, next to a large water tank. The temple sits on a mound and has a nice view of paddy fields across the street. As we rested here, Pushpa spotted a swallowtail butterfly with blue wings. It was flying from flower to flower barely staying motionless for two or three seconds. I managed to get a few shots of the beautiful creature.

This is the water tank next to Veerabhadra Gudi. During my last visit, it was almost dry. This is where we had seen lot of dragonflies of different colors. Deepi had shot closeup shots with his camera.

The sight of paddy fields, many more months before harvest time. I guess these are mostly non-hybrid varieties and grown organically.

We decided to leave early so that we reach Dharwad before dark. Driving into the dark is one thing I avoid. I'm fine with driving into light i.e. start journeys early. We took Ulavi-Joida-Dandeli-Haliyal-Dharwad route. Near Joida, we picked up a bag of rice from a mill. The rice was the unpolished variety, tasted much better than the polished ones.

Another visit to Ulavi during dry season is pending to see the ancient temples.
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Dec 19, 2020

swallowtail butterfly at Ulavi

This lovely creature is a swallowtail butterfly, a Blue mormon seen at Ulavi deep inside the Western Ghats jungles. This large butterfly is a graceful flier. It is said to be a pollinator.

It was around 2- 30, we were resting at Sri Veerabhadra Gudi when Pushpa spotted it. The butterfly was gathering nectar from a peacock flower (Caesalpinia pulcherrima) tree in full bloom.

These are a few lucky shots since the space was limited and sometimes the butterfly would fly around the other side of the tree. It has a blue patch on the upper side which was out of sight most times.


This is one of my favorite shots. The posture is a perfect symmetry, almost perfect.

The only shot when its wing span at its max. The dark part of the wings have blue patches hence the name Blue mormon.

During our stay at Ulavi and drive through the jungle, I spotted three more Blue mormon. Wondering how many are there deeper inside the jungles away from human beings.
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Dec 12, 2020

Chatrapati Shivaji Circle, Haliyal

As one enters Haliyal from Dharwad side, the first landmark seen is Shivaji Circle. A handsome idol of Shivaji astride a horse, his sword high up in the air greets visitors to Haliyal.

The idol is fixed on a pedestal that depicts one a hill. Also part of the sculpture are smaller idols of soldiers and a canon. Shivaji was known for guerrilla warfare, he and his soldiers were so elusive that enemies lost most of the skirmishes.

Today, Shivaji is synonymous with bravery and an inspiration to fight the evil within our nation. Jai Shivaji!
 
Haliyal was a once a stronghold with a fort. It was under Shivaji's control for many years. One can still see the ruins of Haliyal fort situated next to a large pond. Close to the fort's main entrance is Tulaja Bhavani Mandir.

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Dec 5, 2020

What to see in Belagavi District?

Belagavi is the largest district of Karnataka. Perched on the edge of western ghats, it is one of greenest regions in Karnataka. The district is blessed with eight rivers flowing through it- Krishna, Malaprabha, Ghataprabha, Markandeya, Mahadai, Hiranyakeshi, Vedaganga and Doodhaganga. With so many rivers, the district boasts of waterfalls and scenic spots. In fact Belgavi city has cool weather throughout the year, especially in the rainy season. The district has also recorded single digit temperatures during winters. Belagavi consists of ten taluqas- Athani, Bailhongal, Belgaum, Chikkodi, Gokak, Hukkeri, Khanapur, Ramdurg, Raybag and Saundatti. The district is bound by Uttara Kannada, Dharwad, Gadag, Bagalkot, and Bijapur districts of Karnataka and Maharashtra and Goa states on the northern and western sides respectively.

Belgavi was founded in the XII century CE by the Ratta dynasty, who shifted from Saundatti. The place was originally named as Venugrama or Venupura which means "village of bamboo." In the XIII Century, Belagavi came under the rule of Yadava dynasty. Later it was ruled by Delhi Sultanate, Vijayanagara, Bahmanis and Marathas before the British took over. During the British rule, Belagavi was part of Bombay Presidency. Post independence, it became part of Karnataka state.

Chatrapati Shivaji believed in the strength of possessing forts. During the Maratha rule, strategic sites were identified and new forts were built. The existing forts were renovated and strengthened. A communication chain was established between the forts. It is said that during fire was used to convey messages which were relayed across forts covering long distances in a short time. Many of the forts are still standing strong.

Belgavi Kote | Rayanna Samadhi
Ramakrishna Ashram | painting of Rani Chennamma and Rayanna

Savadatti Kote | shops near Yellamma Gudi
Parasgad Kote | Navilu Theertha

Mauli Gudi, Kankumbi | Ramtheerth near Halasi
Thatteshwara Mahadev Gudi | Mahadayi Nadi

Vallabhgad | Subapur Kote
Sirasangi Vaade | Gokak Jalapatha

Mudkavi Kote | Bhootnath Gudi
tombs at Hukkeri | Torgal Kote

Here's a list of important historic places of Belagavi district-
  1. Belgavi fort - This fort was built in the XII century CE by Ratta dynasty when they shifted their capital from Saundatti to Belagavi. Currently the fort is under the control of Indian Army however general public is allowed inside. Within the fort are several ancient Hindu shrines, Jain temples, a mosque and Ramakrishna Ashram.
  2. Kamala Basti - This is one of the two Jain temples inside Belagavi fort. The temple is said to be built by the Chalukyas 1204 CE. The temple is known for its architectural beauty, especially the mirror finish pillars in the open hall.
  3. Kapileshwar Devastana- Situated in the heart of Belagaum city, this is said to be one of the oldest temples dedicated to Shiva. The deity of this shrine is said to be self-originated and called as “Dakshina Kashi." The pilgrimage of twelve Jyotirlinga across India is complete only after a visit to Kapileshwara. 
  4. Mallikarjuna Devastana - this is another ancient shrine of Belagavi city.
  5. Military Mahadev Devastana - is one of the favorite outing spots for Belagavi people. This Shiva temple is known for its well maintained temple, garden, children's play area, mini zoo and scale models of few forts ruled by Chatrapati Shivaji. The temple is situated within the Maratha Light Infantry Regiment camp.
  6. Military Durga Devastana - is another popular shrine which is situated at the main entrance of Belagavi fort.
  7. Ancient churches of Belgaum - Belgaum was an important military center during British rule. With a significant Christian population, a number of churches were established. Some of the oldest churches are Central Methodist Church, Divine Mercy Church, Fatima Cathedral, Immaculate Conception Church, Mount Carmel church, Seventh Day Adventist Church, Saint Anthony’s Church, Saint Mary’s Church and The Belgaum Church. These churches are beautiful examples of foreign architecture in Karnataka.
  8. Ramakrishna Ashram - As mentioned previously the monastery is situated inside the fort. This Ashram was graced by Swami Vivekananda's visit in 1892. Vivekananda stayed here nine days i.e. from October 19th to October 27th.
  9. Vallabghad fort - This is a fort said to be built during Chatrapati Shivaji's rule. Situated on a hillock of laterite, the fort summit gives a clear view of the surrounding plains. This is one of the forts which has been built with material available at the site itself. Vallabhgad is about 60 km north of Belagavi.
  10. Kakati fort - Kakati is the birthplace of Rani Chennamma. The present day village is on plain land while the ruins of a fort can be seen on the hill. Kakati is 52 km north of Kittur and 11 km north of Belgaum.
  11. Bhimgad fort - This fort was built by Chatrapati Shivaji to protect the kingdom from Portuguese forces in Goa. The fort is situated on a hill deep inside the jungles of Khanapur. Bhimgad is about 65 km west of Belagavi. 
  12. Machigad fort - This is a fort situated on a thickly wooded hill. The area being Maratha control, its highly likely the fort was built by them. Machigad is 45 km south of Belagavi and 4 km west of Halasi. To reach the fort one needs to trek through the jungle.
  13. Malaprabha Ugamasthala, Kankumbi - Malaprabha the major tributary of river river Krishna starts its journey in the hills of western ghats at Kankumbi. The river starts from a spring situated next to Mauli Gudi near Kankumbi village. Kankumbi is about 43 km southwest of Belagavi. 
  14. Jamboti waterfall - one of the spectacular waterfalls situated in the wilderness of Western Ghats. Jamboti is about 30 km southwest of Belgaum.
  15. Vajrapoha waterfall - One of the popular waterfalls of this district. Mahadayi river dives down 200m forming a spectacular sight. Vajrapoha falls is about 55 km southwest of Belagavi and 28 km east of Khanapur.
  16. Talaewadi - is a hamlet situated deep in the jungles of Khanapur taluq. Close to Talewadi flows river Mahadeyi. Talewadi is one of the highest points, the hilly slopes descend towards Goa from here. Talewadi is about 25 km from Khanapur. One may require Karnataka Forest Department permission to enter the jungle.
  17. Rajhansgad fort - This is a small fort occupying a hill top with a commanding view of the surrounding land. Going by its architecture, the fort seems to be built by Maratha builders. At some point of time the fort was under Chatrapati Shivaji's control. Rajhansgad, also known as Yellurgad is 12 km south of Belgavi city. 
  18. Rakkaskoppa - The name is a product of two words Rakkasa and Koppa which mean demon and hamlet. Folklore says that a demon lived in a cave in the laterite formation on a hillrock at this place. Also, close to this village is a dam across river Markandeya. The dam reservoir is a popular picnic spot and people flock to see spectacular sunsets here. Rakaskoppa is 17 kms west of Belagavi city.
  19. Hidkal dam - The official name of this dam is Raja Lakhamagouda dam. The dam is built across river Ghataprabha, one of the tributaries of river Krishna. The reservoir covers an area of 68 sq km when full. The water caters to a hydro-electricity plant and irrigational requirements.
  20. Honnurgad fort - This is a fort created by hacking out the laterite top of a hillock. The flat top hill was a natural safe place which has been improvised for easier access and better security. The hill fort is situated right next to Hidkal reservoir north shore. about 48 km northeast of Belagavi.
  21. Gumbaz of Hukkeri - The name Hukkeri is derived from the phrase Hoovina Keri meaning street of flowers. The place was a major flower market during Adil Shahi time. It is said that roses were sent from Hukkeri to the kingdom's capital Bijapur. The administrator in-charge of Hukkeri had built a fort and three tombs here. Hukkeri is about 53 km north of Belgavi city.
  22. Yamakanmardi fort - this is a small village which had a well built fort once upon a time. Going by the architecture, the fort seems to be built during Maratha times. Today only two towers of the fort remain. The village also has ancient temples and a monastery. Yamakanmardi is about 38 km north of Belagavi.
  23. Saundatti fort - Originally known as Savadatti, Saundatti was the capital of Ratta dynasty. The fort is situated on a hillock which gives a commanding view of the surrounding places. The original fort is enclosed by an octagonal shaped fort with its main entrance on the eastern side. The outer fort was said to be built in the middle of XVIII Century by Jayappa Desai of the Navalgund-Sirasangi Sansthan.
  24. Yellammadevi Devastana - This is an temple complex with the main shrine dedicated to Goddess Renuka, also called as Yellammadevi. The sub-shrines are dedicated to Eknath, Ganesha, Mallikarjuna, Parshurama, and Siddeshwara. The temple's history goes back to Chalukyan and Rashtrakuta times, that's when the original temple was built. The temple is situated in a sprawling range of sandstone hills which was originally known as Siddhachal Parvata, now commonly known as Yellamma Gudda. The shrine attracts devotees not only from Karnataka but also from Goa, Maharastra, Telangana and Andhrapradesh.  Yellamma Gudda is situated 90 km east of Belgaum and 14 km east of Saundatti town.
  25. Parasgad fort - this is another fort built by the kings of Ratta dynasty. The fort is situated on the southwestern side of Yellamma Gudda. While western plains were watched from Savadatti fort, the southern plains were watched over from Parasgad fort. The eastern entrance of Parasgad fort is 4 km southwest of Yellamma Devastana.
  26. Navilutirtha dam and Renuka Sagar - Navilutirtha is a gorge in a hill range through which river Malaprabha flows. At the end of the gorge is a dam across the river which forms the reservoir named as Renuka Sagar. Navilutirtha a popular picnic spot can be accessed from the dam site. Navilutirtha is 10 km northwest of Saundatti and 86 km east of Belgaum. 
  27. Munvalli fort - Munvalli is a small town on the bank of river Malaprabha. The fort too is situated on the river bank. Within the fort are several temples but Hanuman Gudi is the outstanding one. The architecture seems Maratha with a touch of Indo-Saracenic. Also, on the outside of the fort, on the eastern there are few smaller temples probably built mid of XIX Century. Munvalli is about 80 km east of Belagavi.
  28. Subapur fort - Subapur is remote village situated next to a hillock with a fort on the top. The fort's architecture is Maratha and one of the strategic forts which formed a link in the communication chain between major forts. Subapur is 22 km northwest of Munvalli and 61 km east of Belagavi.
  29. Gokak waterfall - This spectacular water fall is in the path of river Ghataprabha. During rainy season when the river is flowing bank to bank, the waterfall is a sight to behold. The other attractions near the waterfalls are the Mahalingeshwara Devastana built during the Chalukyan times, the hanging bridge and stone buildings built by the British government. Gokak falls is 65 km northeast of Belgaum and 6 km from Gokak city.
  30. Dolmen of Konnur - Konnur is an important prehistoric site due to the presence of dolmens which are scattered in the fields. These are similar to the dolmen of Aihole. Locally these tombs are called as Pandavara Manee or Munivasada Gavi. Konnur is 5 km northwest of Gokak waterfall and 60 km northeast of Belagavi.
  31. Chikaleshwara Devastana, Konnur - This is a group of temples dedicated to Chikadeva, Mahalakshmi, Hanumanta, Mahadeva and Basavanna. The main temple i.e Chikadeva was built by the Chalukyan kings in the XI Century CE.
  32. Godachinmalki waterfall - This twin waterfall is one of the favorite picnic spots, especially during the rainy season when Markhandeya river is flowing in full force. Situated amidst wooded hills, the river first dives 25 meters and then dives again 18 meters. Godachinmalki is about 18 km southwest of Gokak.
  33. Anandgadh fort - This hill fort is situated on the edge of a wooded hill range. Long back the plains surrounding the hill range was also covered by forest with clearings for agricultural plots. Most of the fortification has crumbled but the place retains its importance because of Durga Devi temple. Also this hill is popular for trekking because of the long winding wooded path.
  34. Mahadeva Devastana, Thatteshwar - This is an ancient shrine dedicated to Shiva. The ancient temple seems to be built during Kadamba rule. The structure is simple but elegant and it seems to be in the original condition - thanks to its remote location.
  35. Sangolli Rayanna tomb, Nandaghad - Rani Chennamma's brave lieutenant Rayanna's mortal remains are said to be buried under a Banyan tree here. In fact when the British army had Rayanna captured and executed, they wanted his grave to be a secret. However, one of his close friends found the spot and planted a Banyan sapling which grew into a big tree and continues to keep Rayanna's name alive. About 3 km from his grave is the place of his execution. Nandgad is about 40 km south of Belgaum.
  36. Bhu-Varaha Narasimha Devastana, Halasi - Halasi was an important place during the times of early Kadamba Dynasty. Also it was a minor capital for the Goa Kadambas. Today Halasi is known for BhuVaraha Narasimha Gudi, Kalmeshwara Gudi, Suvarneshwara Gudi, Rameshwara Gudi and a Jaina Basti. Halasi is situated 42 km south of Belgaum and 6 km south of Nandgadh.
  37. Ramtheerth - This is a temple situated close to a cliff of a hillock overlooking the jungles of western ghats. At the spot are two small temples built during the Kadamba times. The journey to the spot and the beauty of the spot is an attraction. Ramtheerth is 3 km southwest of Halasi.
  38. Dohara Kakkayya Aikyasthala - Dohara Kakkayya was one of the prominent Shivasharanas of Kalyana. Due to persecution by king Bijjala, the Shivasharanas fled Kalyana while being chased by Bijjala's army. The Shivasharanas had to take to arms in self defense, clashed with the army near Kadrolli village, many Shivasharanas were injured and died but managed to chase away Bijjala's forces. Kakkayya was grievously injured and died at a place which was named as Kakkeri in memory of Kakkayya.
  39. Gokak fort - Gokak is a taluq capital place. The city is situated around the sandstone hill next to river Ghataprabha. On the hill are the ruins of fort walls and a temple dedicated to Mallikarjuna.
  40. Arabhavi Mata and Kittur Raja Mallasarja Desai memorial - Mallasarja Desai was the king of Kittur kingdom and husband of Rani Chennamma. It is said that his mortal remains are buried at Arbhavi Matha, a Lingayath monastery. The monastery is situated 10 km north of Gokak city.
  41. Sogal - This is an ancient shrine of Shiva, named after an ascetic named Sugola Muni. The shrine is situated in the cleavage between two hills through which flows a stream. Visitors to Sogal are welcomed by a beautiful waterfall and a short climb to the shrine. There are several temples here, the chief ones being Someshwara and Bramarambika. Close to the temple is a smaller waterfall where devotees bathe before going into the temple. The temples history goes back Chalukyan times. Sogal is about 63 kms east of Belgaum.
  42. Halae Somapur fort - this is a partially built fort in a remote location near Tallur. The fort is built on a hill slope, on a rock bed next to a small gorge. Close to it is an ancient shrine named Ramlingeshwara Theertakolla. The trek to this fort would be an interesting experience, specially during the end of rainy season.
  43. Ramdurg fort - During the British times, Ramdurg was a princely state. After independence, the Sansthan merged into India. Ramdurg fort and palace are situated on a hillock close to river Malaprabha. To this day, the ancient structures are well maintained even though the family members do not reside there. Ramdurg is about 101 km east of Belgaum.
  44. Torgal fort - This is one of the biggest forts of Ramdurg taluq. With seven rings of walls, multiple gateways and situated on the bank of river Malaprabha, Torgal was a formidable fort. It belongs (belonged) to a Jagirdhar (landlord) named Meherban Shrimant Udaysinhrao Narsojirao Shinde. Within the fort are two temples dating back to Kadamba period. Torgal is about 13 km west of Ramdurg and 86 km east of Belgavi.
  45. Varavi Siddeshwara - This is an ancient shrine dedicated to Shiva situated in the cleft of the sandstone formation which spans several kilometers covering a large area. A stream flows  into the cleft forming a waterfall and flows through gap. Close to the waterfall is a cave temple with Shivalinga. The place's natural beauty is enchanting, especially after rains. Varavi Siddeshwara is 6 km southeast of Munvalli and 86 km east of Belagavi.
  46. Hooli fort - Hooli had been important center during the Chalukyan times. Hooli is situated on the southern side of sandstone formation previously mentioned. The fort is situated on the rocky hillock which has a commanding view of the plains below. Hooli fort was like a sentry point and a link in the chain of forts. Hooli is about 100 km east of Belagavi.
  47. Hooli Panchalingeshwara Devastana & other temples - Hooli boasts of several temples built during Chalukyan times. The main temple i.e. Panchalingeshwara is situated on plain ground while the other temples are on the slopes of sandstone hill. Panchalingeshwara Gudi is under ASI care and in good shape. The other temples though ruined are worth seeing.
  48. Sirasangi - Sirasangi is a village full of historical monuments namely Sri Lindgraj Desai's Vaadae, Kalikadevi Devastana, Gavi Siddeshwara and Babbudangiri Durgah. Lingaraj Desai was a wealthy landlord who contributed to educational institutes. His Vaadae is a monument worth seeing. Kalikadevi temple is an ancient shrine with beautiful idols of Shiva & Parvati, Ganesha and Shanmugha. Gavi Siddeshwara is a cave shrine and the Durgah is the tomb of a Sufi saint. The last two are situated outside the village, close to the base of the sandstone formation. Sirasangi is about 100 km east of Belagavi.
  49. Shabarikolla - This is an ancient shrine situated in the cleft of a rocky hillock. The shrine is named after Shabari, the aged woman disciple of Rama who offers him Jamoon after tasting them so that she's sure of the fruits' sweetness.
  50. Mudkavi fort - One of the ancient forts whose history is lot with time. Going by the arhitecture this fort was expanded during Maratha rule. The fort situated on a slope has two tiers, a water tank sufficient to last a year and the core of the fort is made of 20+ feet walls. Mudkavi is 115 km east of Belgavi and 18 km east of Ramdurg.
  51. Nargund fort - Nargund town's icon is the hill studded with sandstone formations. Sources state that Nargund fort was was built during Chhatrapati Shivaji's time. Not much remains of the fort due to excavation during erection of windmills. The hill top can be reached by steps on the southwestern face. On the hill are shrines of Amba Bhavani and Siddeshwara. Nargund is also known for its Venkateshwara Devastana but sadly the structure is poorly maintained due to lack of funds. Nargund is is about 120 km east of Belagavi.
  52. Shri Ashwatha Narasimha Devastana - This Narasimha shrine is said to be renovated by  Vijayanagara king Achyutaraya hence it is locally known as Achyutarayana Katti. This shrine is walking distance from Gangambike memorial.
  53. Gangambike Aikyasthala - Jagajyoti Basaveshwara's first wife Gangambike attained Aikya (left this world) here. A temple at the spot marks her grave situated on the bank of river Malaprabha.
  54. Kittur fort and palace - Kittur town was the capital of Kittur kingdom which was last ruled by the warrior queen Chennamma of Desai family. The fort walls are almost intact except for natural erosion and damages during the last battle. The fort's moat can be seen in places. From the palace ruins, one can see the floor plan, few walls, water tanks, drainage system and remnants of the kitchen. Within the fort walls is a museum where artifacts from Chennamma's time are on display.
  55. Kamalanarayana Devastana, Degoan - This twin shrine temple was built by in the XII Century by the kings of Kadamba dynasty. The temple is unique in terms of plans and elevation, it has two entrances both on the same side. Degoan is about 7 km southwest of Kittur.
  56. Kalgudi of Degulahalli  - Kalgudi means stone temple and Degulahalli means village of a temple. The temple's deity is unknown hence a generic name. Going by the architecture, the temple seems to be built during Chalukyan times. Though in ruins, the temple's beauty is not to be missed. Degulahalli is about 2.5 km northwest of Degoan.
  57. Parshwnath of Kasamalagi - Kasamalagi is a small village between Kittur and Bidi. on April 24, 2004 a beautiful 3' tall black-stone idol of Parshwanath was discovered while excavating earth for a house foundation. The idol could be from the XI or XII Century. The temple was built and the idol installed making Kasamalagi an important Jaina center. Kasamalagi is 14 kms west of Kittur.
  58. Sri Siddeshwara Vibhuti Gavi - this is a cave shrine on a small hillock. This place is 10 km north of Kittur and 2 km northeast of Gudikotabagi village.
  59. Basaveshwara Devalaya, ChikkaNandiHalli - This shrine is known for its 5 feet tall idol of Basavanna (Nandi). Nandi Halli is 5 km north of Kittur.
  60. Sangolli - This is the birthplace of Rayanna, the most trustworthy lieutenant of the warrior queen Kittur Rani Chennamma. A statue and a temple exist at this village in memory of the brave warrior. Sangolli is situated 15 kms northeast of Kittur and 50 km southeast of Belgaum.
  61. Turamari - This is a remote village which happened to be the major location for the Kannada cinema Ondanondu Kaladalli. The cinema's lead actor was Shankar Nag, it was directed by Girish Karnad. It was mostly shot in the jungles near Dandeli and at Turmari village headman's house (Gowdara Mane). At that time the house had 101 doors. The house built of stone, bricks, mud and wood is a fine example of ancient architecture. Turamari is about 54 km southeast of Belagavi.
  62. Hunashikatti - This village is known for Shivasharana Rudramuni's Gaddige (tomb) & Ashram which are situated next to Malaprabha river. The village also happens to be the birthplace of Sri Kumaraswamiji who practiced meditation at Navilu Theertha, attained enlightenment and established Tapovan at Dharwad. Hunasikatti is about 45 km southeast of Belagavi.
  63. Rani Chennamma Samadhi, Bailhongal - After the fall of Kittur, Chennamma was imprisoned at Bailahongal fort. She died in the jail in 1829 and her mortal remains were buried in Bailhongal. A bust of Rani Chennamma under a elegant mantapa surrounded by a garden at the town center is a simple memorial in honor of the brave queen. Bailhongal is about 50 km east of Belagavi.
  64. Ramlingeshwar Devastana (Kalgudi) Bailhongal - This is an Ekakuta temple built during the Chalukyan times. Two large slabs with Kannada inscription have been found here. This temple is a protected monument.
  65. Antique water tank tower, Bailhongal - A five story tall water tank supposedly built in 1950s is an architectural beauty. The tower was built to supply water to the town residents. Its stands there but neglected.
  66. Yellamma Devastana and Jain temples, Vakkund - These temples were built in the XI or XII Century CE. The temples are situated on river Malaprabha left bank, on a hillock which becomes an island when Renuka Sagar fills up. The temples are of great importance since they hare under ASI care. Vakkund is 55 km east of Belgaum and 7 km southeast of Bailhongal.
  67. Veerabhadreshwara Devastana, Belawadi - Belwadi is better known for its warrior queen Mallamma who fought Chatrapati Shivaji's soldiers defending her husband's kingdom. Though the queen was captured, Shivaji admired her bravery and released her. Veerabhadra Gudi is probably the oldest shrine and biggest temple of the town. Belawadi is about 63 km southeast of Belagavi.
  68. Siddeshwara Devastana, Athni - Historically, Athni was a fortified town where the armies of Maratha and Mughals clashed. In the present day, nothing remains of the fort but an ancient shrine of Siddeshwara continues to thrive. Siddeshwara Devastana is the largest temple of Athani town which attracts thousands of devotees. Athani is about 150 km northeast of Belagavi.
  69. Chachadi Vaade - Vaade is fortified residence of wealthy and powerful landlords. Chachadi Vaade is said to be 800 years old, currently it is owned by the 24th generation of the family.
  70. Mamadapur fort - Ruins of a small fort can be seen at this town. 
  71. Nerli fort - Ruins of a small fort can be seen at this village. Nerli is 56 km north of Belagavi.
  72. Nipani fort - This is the fortified palace of Nipani Sansthan. The fort walls and palace can still be seen. Nipani is situated 80 km north of Belagavi. 
  73. Kuternatti fort - Ruins of a small fort can be seen on the hillock close to Kuternatti which is 53 km east of Belagavi.
  74. Ananthapur fort - Ruins of a small fort can be seen just outside the village. The fort is square in plan, whatever remains of the walls and bastions indicate a presence of a formidable fort. Ananthapur is 117 km northeast of Belagavi, around 2 km from Karnataka-Maharashtra border.
  75. Jama Masjid, Sampgaon - A mosque with a Gumbaz and four minar built during Adil Shahi. Sources say that this mosque stands over a temple site. Sampgaon is 50 km southeast of Belgaum and 14 km east of Hire Bagewadi.
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Nov 28, 2020

few shots of river Beas

December 5, 2019
Beas' originates at Rohtang Pass at an elevation of 4361 metres above sea-level. Beas travels through Himachal Pradesh and enters Punjab where it's 470 km long journey ends by merging into river Sutlej at 225 MAMSL. 

During my travels between Kullu and Manali, I learnt that all major roads of the state ply along the river, crisscrossing few times. The fresh mountain water appears blue or greenish blue in most places. During the cold months water level is low and the flow is narrow exposing the rock strewn riverbed. Here are few shots of Beas from my DSLR and mobile phone.

This is the river bed near Kais at a point where a stream joins the river. Countless mountain streams join along the journey increasing Beas' width and depth.


Just after the river-stream confluence is a hanging bridge, one of the many such bridges on this route.

I happened to see five or six bridges, identical in looks and build. A pair of anchor towers positioned opposite to each other on the banks hold the suspension cables and all the paraphernalia.

View of the downstream from the bridge entrance. The riverbed is about 100 feet wide or more at places. Presently the river is under 30 feet but it flows with great force here. One can't really wade through the water here.

The bridge is about 2 meter wide, enough for a Tata Sumo MPV to pass through it. As we were about to enter this bridge on a bike, a car entered from the other side, we gave way for the car. There are unspoken rules on these bridges. However, some bridges which are busy, like the one close to Kullu, have traffic controllers. Driving reverse on a narrow shaky bridge can be super tricky, so to avoid such incidents controllers handle the traffic.

Beas as seen from another point. Take a look at the riverbed color. Its whitish, if you go closer on a sunny day the glare can be blinding. Also, you can see shiny dots in the sand which is dues to the presence of mica which is quite high. Masonry works made of this sand and cement have shorter life compared to the ones built with mica-free sand. 

As we move higher up the hills towards Manali, the mountains have more vegetation, mostly fir, pine, and spruce. The local names are Cheel, Deodar, Kayal, Rye, Saal, and Safeda.

Blue-sky, snow-capped mountains and Deodar forest. It looks so scenic but the conditions on the mountains are not really friendly for humans. Yet the locals have their own survival techniques. 

Himachal being a favorite tourist destination offers many adventure sports like paragliding, hot-air ballooning, river rafting, trekking, skiing, and what not.

Few kilometres before Manali, we stopped for a break, went off the highway. Rajesh poses by the fresh gushing gurgling bluish water.

A pointy rock pokes out from the bed. One needs to be really careful while playing in such places. 

A natural washing stone held by the darker rock below.

The beauty of this place is so captivating that one might want to stay here for a long long time.

Do check out little bit of Himachali rural life.

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Nov 21, 2020

Sunnadahalli Anajneya Devastana and Aalaemanae

Sunnadahalli is a small village on the right bank of river Bhadra, near Bhadravathi. Sunnadahalli literally means 'lime village' (Sunna + halli). Probably the village was known for lime production. I've known this village since my childhood days when we lived in Bhadravathi. We used to go walking from our home in MPM Colony to Sunnadahalli Anjaneya temple. A foot bridge connected the two banks. I used to be scared while crossing the bridge when the water level was high. Often the bridge would remain submerged for days. Apart from casual walks, we went to the river during Ganesha Habba. Colony people sent their Ganeshas away in river Bhadra.

Farmers in and around Sunnadahalli grew mostly paddy and sugarcane. The latter was fed to sugar mills or to Aalaemane (jaggery production unit). I remember seeing one Aalaemanae, a bright red glow was visible from a kilometer.

Pushpa and I stayed overnight at Bhadravathi while traveling from Dharwad to Bangalore via Sirsi.

February 23, 2020
Bhadravathi to Sunnadahalli is around four kilometers. We reached the village by 7-40 am. This is the arch across the village entrance.

The temple wasn't open. A hand written board said it opened at 9-00 AM. I was surprised and amused, temple opening like an office. Anyway, we did Namaskara to the temple and left. The place had changed over the years. A big ficus tree dominated the village square and there used to be lot of monkeys. The trees gone, so are the monkeys. In a way, this village has lost its charm.

At the village entrance was a Aalaemanae. On the way out, I suggested we see it. Pushpa was seeing one first time. The cane crusher was not running at that moment but the large pan of sugarcane juice was boiling on the stove fueled by bagasse.

The landlord of this mill is a local man, he was away on some work. His workers monitored the pan.. the liquid needs to stirred every few minutes and the fire needs to be fed. The white material on the floor is bagasse, the fibrous residue of sugarcane after the juice is extracted. After crushing, bagasse is dried & stacked for future use.

Sugarcane juice is boiled for eight hours continuously so that it loses water and becomes a thick liquid jaggery. Next to the pan is a special floor, lined with stone slabs. The pan is hoisted using a chain pulley and pour the hot liquid jaggery on to the floor. The thick liquid is allowed to cool naturally and solidify. The workers make small cakes or blocks for retail sale.

One batch- crushing, boiling and cooling -runs upto 24 hours. The workers man the operation is shifts. These people spoke Hindi, their Kannada was broken. They seems to be immigrants form up north.

Bagasse stack, looks like last year's stock. New bagasse is being dried on the side. The workers gifted us a small cake of dark brown jaggery.

The short stopover was nice. As we turned in to the highway, I noticed this stone slab with the village's name inscribed on it. May the inscription remain as is for a long time to come.

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