Chikaleshwar Devastana, Konnur

Chikaleshwara Devastana of Konnur is one of the least known Chalukyan temples. This is a group of temples in one compound, dedicated to Chikadeva, Mahalakshmi, Hanumanta, Mahadeva and Basavanna. The main temple is said to be Chikadeva aka Chikaleshwar was built by during Chalukyan rule in the X or XI Century CE. I learned about this temple from the website of ASI, Dharwad Circle.

September 23, 2022

The agenda for the day was to visit relatives at Yelimunnoli village near Hukkeri, then visit two historic places near Gokak on the way back to Dharwad. The two historic places were Arbhavimata and Konnur. The former is an ancient Lingayath monastery where the mortal remains of Raja Mallasarja Desai of Kittur lie buried. The latter i.e. Konnur is known for Chikaleshwar Devastana and prehistoric megalithic tombs (dolmen). We reached Arbhavimata around 12-30 pm. As we were looking at the impressive buildings of the monastery, we were asked to partake meals (Anna Prasada) along with few other visitors. After lunch we headed towards Konnur which is a short drive away. Just before Konnur is another village called Dhupdal where we stopped for a minute to take snaps of a 112 year old church. Few minutes later we entered Konnur village, a narrow street lead to the village square which is the access point for the temple complex.

At the square, as we asked directions to Chikaleshwara Gudi, we happened to bump into the caretaker Shankar Jiddimani and his son Shivu. I parked the car at the square and followed Shankar by walk. As mentioned before, this temple complex has five shrines, surely all are ancient. However, all shrines have been renovated with modern materials except Chikaleshwara Gudi which is a protected monument. So, here we are looking at the sandstone structure built in the X or XI Century CE.

This east facing temple is a fully enclosed shrine with one entrance and four ventilators on the sides. This is a standard design in Chalukyan architecture.

This is the rear diagonal view. The lines flowing vertically is an indication of the good workmanship of ancient builders.

Quoting the description of this temple from ASI Dharwad Circle website:

The Chikaleshvar or Chikadeva temple, which is in the later Chalukyan style has a garbhagriha, an ardhamandapa and a renovated navaranga. The garbhagriha is star-shaped and has a Kadamba Nagara shikhara with a shukanasa. The navaranga was renovated in 1973. An inscription of Chalukya Someshwar – I, speaks of a grant of land to a temple, whose name is lost and inscription is dated saka 955 (C. 1033 CE).

The sculpted block on the roof is an interesting piece. It is trapezium shaped and elegantly ornate. At the center is an image of Dhyanasta Shiva enclosed in three concentric tiers of different themes. The concentric circles are held gracefully by creepers. This sculpture is akin to a bindi on forehead.

It was nice to see the well maintained temple, both interior and exterior were clean and tidy. The interior is simple but has standard features of a Chalukyan temple.... Navaranga Mantapa, Anthrala with a perforated screen, and a pair of niches flanking the Garbhagudi. The columns of this temple are functional, aesthetically they are plain but elegant.

Diagonal views of the Navaranga.

A closer look at the sanctum. Along with the deity, Shiva Linga is Nandi as well. I think originally Nandi was in the Navaranga, for some reason Nandi has been moved into the sanctum when the temple was reconditioned.

That's it. We head back towards the car with a quick look at Lakshmi Gudi. This temple seems to attract huge crowds hence the arrangements for people to sit in shade.

A closer view of the shrine. The original components have been replaced or modified. The modifications have been done neatly, the whiteness of the shrine gives it a peaceful feel.

Back at the village square, I asked Shankar about the dolmen. Apparently local people call it Shantisagar Gufa. The word "gufa" means cave in Hindi. It seems an ascetic named Shantisagar practiced dhyana there, hence the name. Shankar appointed his son Shivu to take me to the dolmen site which was a couple kilometers from here. I thanked Shankar and left Konnur... very excited to be visiting another prehistoric site.

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