May 30, 2020

Stone chariot of Hampi

The first time I saw the stone chariot was Feb-1996 during the biking trip around Karnataka with my friend Gulveer. We spent a day at Hampi and covered the key monuments like Virupaksha temple, Kadlekalu Ganesha, Sasivekalu Ganesha, Badavi Linga, Lakshmi Narasimha, Elephant stables, Lotus Mahal, Chakra-Theerta, and Vittala Devastana. Those were the times of film-roll cameras. We carried a Yashica aim-n-shoot and few rolls of Konica/Kodak rolls. We had to exercise austerity for obvious reasons - cost of rolls, developing and printing. We got some decent shots, few bad shots and rest were okay but the trip was memorable.

We must've spent an hour at Vittala Devastana in the company of a guide, a soft-spoken person he was. He had patiently explained us the temple's features and demonstrated the sound effects in the musical pillars. We could actually hear different tunes in those pillars when he knocked gently with his fingers. He had told us stories about the stone chariot which was under maintenance, scaffolding pipes surrounded the it. That was disappointing. After the tour, we bought some banana from a vendor and sat under the Neem under next to the complex. A monkey out of nowhere, our guide gave it a banana or two. It was nice to see the trust between man and an animal.

This photo was shot during my second visit i.e. in 2003 with my brother, mama and two business associates from Goa. Hampi visit was a break during the business trip.

The history of the stone chariot goes like this: During one of the campaigns to Odisha,  Krishnadevaraya happened to see the chariot at Konark Sun temple. He was so fascinated by it that he got this chariot made. This is actually a temple, dedicated to Garuda, made to look like a chariot complete with wheels fixed over the shafts. Also, it seems like a monolith but its a clever assembly of multiple blocks. The pair of elephants are placed here for decoration, they do not belong to this monument. Originally a pair of horses drew the chariot. Just behind the elephants, the remnants of horses' legs can be seen. Between the elephants is the damaged stone-ladder to climb on to the shrine. When Hampi was discovered in the XIX Century by Alexander Greenlaw, this chariot had a crown which can be seen in his photographs. It is said that the chariot was painted during its heydays, so was the entire Vittala temple complex.

Now, I remember one thing our guide had told- when ancient musicians played on musical pillars, the music was heard over a radius of one kilometre. Yes, probably it was heard when air was still.

I visited Hampi few more times between 1996 and 2017. Over the years, crowds visiting Hampi has increased exponentially. During the last visit, the temple was so crowded that its almost impossible to photograph anything without any humans. You must see the groups posing for pictures.. shots after shots.. two more groups are waiting close by waiting to pounce.. some people really take things for granted! Its time we Indians respect basic etiquette at tourist places. Hopefully, in the future, I get to see the chariot peacefully. I guess the best time to do that is early morning as soon as the temple gates open.
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May 23, 2020

Himachali Topi

It was mid 1990s when I first saw a Himachali Topi. A friend had bought one during a trip to Himachal. I felt the cap was classy, elegant, it had a special look. That's the only time I ever saw one for real.

The second week of November-2019 I happened to visit Dhagpo Sheprupling Gompa, a Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Kais, a village between Kullu and Manali. The second day, I saw these people, the two ladies and gentleman had come to meet their boys who were monks here. I found the ladies attire lively. Until that moment I was assumed the cap was worn by men only, this was a pleasant surprise. With their permission I took a few pictures.

The nine-day visit was a great experience, thanks to the monks warm hospitality, and also to the kind & generous company of Rajesh, a business associate at the monastery. What little I traveled is all with him. This is Rajesh, at his home in Dharamshala. He looks handsome in the cap.

For many Himachali folks, topi is part of their daily wear, especially men folk. For the rest topi is reserved for special occasions. There are different types of Himachali Topi namely  Bushahri, Kinnauri, Kulluwi, Lahuli and Malana. I guess the names are specific to districts within Himachal. For example- Kulluwi might be specific to Kullu and its surrounding places. For me its just Himachali Topi.

When I expressed my wish to get one, Rajesh suggested Shanti's shop. Shanti is an electrician I'd met at the monastery, his shop is just a kilometer away, on the outskirts of Kais. The caps are stitched by his wife and other ladies while Shanti takes care of raw material and sales. Yes, this is his shop and he's always wearing a cap.


One can buy caps off the shelf or place an order. These caps come in different sizes and patterns. The patterns are basically two types- plain and geometric. Haven't seen any floral patterns. Its important to buy at cap that fits properly. My requirement was five caps, I'd to get the sizes (perimeter of head at forehead level) from two of my friends and Pushpa at home.. sizes, 4½, 6 and 7. For the patterns I wanted, Shanti needed three days to deliver.

Here are few shots Rajesh took while Shanti and I went over the sizes and patterns. The cap's body can be made of different types of material which varies from soft to stiff. Stiffer ones are better because they retain shape and last longer. So the first step is to make the open-end cylinder. Then the forehead band is stitched on to the side of the cylinder. Its not as easy as it sounds, lot of effort goes into stitching because of the shape. The last step is to iron the cap. A cylindrical block is used as a base to iron the caps.

Here are some of the patterns. To me all looked good but my selection criteria was Swastik.

Rajesh insisted a picture with Shanti and I wasn't it a mind to refuse. In spite of the bright sunlight, it was cold, had to be covered in warm clothing.

 That's my school time friend Ramesh wearing a Kulluwi Topi. It suits him well, isn't it.

Apart from the Topi, I got a chance to check out some Himachali shawls at Manali. I was surprised to see the varieties in terms of pattern, colors and price. Since I was short on time, I selected five shawls in 20 minutes. One of the shawls was yak wool, off-white color. Then at the monastery, I got a Bhuttico shawl as a gift from a monk. The single color gents shawl was made of sheep wool, in fact it carried the smell of sheep when it was new. Of course the smell faded with use. Bhuttico is a society of thousand weavers which produces different types of shawls but specialize in Kulluvi shawls.

Stay warm, be lively.. that's the Himachali way. Do take a look at the rural life of Himachal Pradesh.
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May 16, 2020

a glimpse of Himachal rural life - part 2

..continued from a glimpse of Himachal rural life - part 1.

We were at the Jai Shamshar Mahadev Mandir. The structure is a good example of Kath Kuni building made of wood, stone, cement blocks and cement. The entrance doorway is made of solid wooden blocks. The wood used here would be Deodar, the most favored type for temples and homes. Above the doorway is a pair of goat horns and a brass bell.. this is a common feature in temples of Himachal Pradesh. The temple door was ajar but we did not step in. Removing the shoes wouldn't be convenient at that moment. The temple seems old but it has undergone some repair work recently.

The structure is about 30' long and 18' wide. The wooden walls should be a foot thick. On the side is a small platform for visitors to sit. Part of the roof is covered with a thick layer of pine needles (leaves). I'm guessing the inside of the temple to be traditional i.e. the flooring would be cow-dung coated.

In the front yard is this little Nandi looking towards its lord inside the temple. The sculpture is simple, its a symbolic deity. Even the platform is a simple stack of slabs.

My wish to touch a pine cone came true. We found fallen pine cones on the carpet of pine leaves. Rajesh pulled out a seed from one of the cones (see inset). These cones are not used for anything else apart from burning them in stoves.

Close to the temple was a house next to the road. Its roof was in level with the road surface. Its quite common to see such houses on these mountains. I wanted to check out the building closely. A man as standing in the balcony, looking into the distant valley. We got his permission to see the house's exterior.

The structure seems to be 10 to 25 years old. Its built in the traditional style. The quality of construction is questionable. For example, the upper level column do not align with the lower level column. This way the load transfers to the ground is not ideal.

The earthen wall is reinforced by a dry wall made of stone. The dry wall allows breathing. During rains or snowfall, water to pass through it without eroding the dirt. The wall also allows the ground to dry uniformly. Had it been concrete, the effect would be damaging. Hence dry walls and gabion walls work better in hilly places.

The house owner seemed to be have a tight budget. Saying that because only one of three sides has railings. Many of the houses even have walls with window so that the interior space is more and keeps the core of the house warmer.

The ground floor is where fire wood is stocked. Workmanship on this side is slightly better. The layers of wood and stone in the walls is clearly visible under the layer of paint. Weather conditions can be pretty harsh here.. wind, rain, snow.. the house is designed to withstand all that.

The door frame is solid! The threshold is a foot thick, covers the entire width of the building, and it shares at least 25% of the load. Truly a marvelous piece of civil engineering.

Rajesh pointed to be the dirt patch next to the house went into the village. He suggested me to take a tour of the village and he would catch up with me on the lower side where it touched the road. I wish Rajesh had joined but it was okay to go alone.

As soon as I descended the first stretch, I ran into this group of children going home after school. They were shy for a minute or two. I asked them if I could take a picture. They lined up neatly. The girl's uniform pattern is a nice combination. Looks like olive green trousers is boys uniform color. Sweet bunch of kids. I took several shots, they waited patiently until I finished. I told them I wanted to see the village, one of the older boys pointed out to the path.. go down there and turn right. There are lot of dogs in the village, so don't go in. I wasn't sure if it was okay to asked them to guide me. We spoke Hindi, language wasn't an issue so far.

Having rained the previous day, the dirt was still wet and slippery. One part of the path was too wet & steep and no handhold. To add to that there was a tree trunk across the path. One wrong step, I would slip and slide below the trunk. Slowly I managed to cross over. I was at a fork wondering what side to go and there wasn't anyone in sight. Suddenly three kids came down the same path running. Man, these little guys are super! The rest of the kids too had followed them. Nice.

There they are, lined up on the steps of a home. They guided me until the last fork in the path. I said bye to them. Wish I could come back with gifts for them some day.

In this picture there's one traditional house. The house with white walls and green colored corrugated roof is a modern one. People are ready to experiment with new material. The village had several trash bins, separate bins for wet and dry waste I guess.

The path leading down to the main road was a narrow one, fence on one side. A cow appeared in my path. Luckily the cow was calm. Surely it knew I was a stranger but it didn't bother me. I passed by safely, just my arm brushed its plump belly.

This seems to be common area of this village. The fallen tree must be Deodar. Not sure if the tree was aged when it was cut down. The core is hollow, the tree must've been in its last days.

I find this scene serene. Its silent and air is clear. God bless this land.

It was close to 2-30 pm. Rajesh and I decided to head back to the monastery since we had have lunch and catch up with his team at the site. On the way down, we stopped for a cup of tea. We sat in the balcony with a view of the village homes roof tops. 90% of the homes on these mountains are traditional homes. They make do with material available on the mountains except plumbing and electrical material.

Back at Dhagpo Shedrupling Monastery, I had food cooked by the monastery cook. Rice, vegetables and curry. Then a short rest in my room before heading back to the site.

Do check out my account of visit to Shuru Manali.
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May 9, 2020

a glimpse of Himachal rural life - part 1

Nov 29, 2019
This was my second day at Dhagpo Shedrupling Monastery, Kais. It was a business visit. We were expecting a consignment around midday but the truck driver informed that he would be arriving a day late. So we had to wait and be patient. I was in no mood to remain idle in this amazing place, exploring the mountains would be a nice way to use the time. Also a business associate here was willing to be my guide and host. I informed a senior monk about my plan and left the monastery by 11-30 or so. Our transportation was Honda X-Blade. Rajesh made sure I wore a helmet. I was riding a two-wheeler after a decade, that too in these steep mountain roads. The road was wide enough for two cars to pass by slowly. Three kilometers from the monastery we stopped for a short break.

The main objective of this trip was to see the traditional Kath Kuni houses. The houses were typically two-storied, made of stone blocks, wood, and slate slabs. The foundation comprised of shaped slate blocks neatly stacked. The gaps between the stones allowed water to flow through reducing the scope for soil erosion. The lower was built of heaver stone and wooden blocks and surrounded by beams and columns which acted as a canopy for the lower floor and flooring for the upper level. The upper level is where the kitchen and bedrooms are. The wooden walls and flooring would keep the interior warm. The roof was made of slate slabs with a long overhang so that rainwater and melted snow would fall away from the wooden walls and column. Most houses had a separate shed to store cattle fodder. The houses were simply fascinating.

Here's a mass of slate sticking out of the surface. Nature has provided semi-finished raw material for construction. This is similar to Cuddapah stone of Andhra Pradesh and Shahabad stone of Gulbarga district. Wondering how many more regions in India have such stones.

The mountains, the valley, and Beas river. This is the scene to many a homes here. How fortunate they are. They have their difficulties and hardships, but they are blessed to be breathing fresh air and viewing this landscape.

Our journey up the mountain continues with stops to shoot pictures like these. For that matter, one should simply walk these roads which would be a lot more comfortable to shoot. Wish I had that luxury of time. Anyway, I was trying to make the best of this visit. Coniferous are stylish looking trees, especially the pine trees. They are all over the mountains especially the upper levels. I guess the entire slopes of these mountains were covered by coniferous before humans started making apple orchards and building homes.

We stopped to see a slightly larger village. Except two house roofs covered with plastic sheets, all houses merge into the surroundings. Most houses are built in traditional method, there are few houses built of red brick and cement too.

A closer look at the houses. Some of the houses could be 50+ years like the house in the foreground with dark walls. The house next to it is a classic example of Kath Kuni walls. The walls has layers of stone and wood. The ancient builders devised this method to make walls are earthquake proof. The same house has stored hay in the balcony. By doing so, the interior is better insulated and hay is aired sufficiently.

This village is next to a pine grove. The air inside the grove is definitely colder than outside. The forest is the source of wood for the village people here. There are certain unwritten rules in making firewood.. only the branches are cut but the main trunk is untouched so that trees grow back branches for the next year. People living in the jungles of Yellapur follow the same rule- they prune slender branches just before rainy season.

Below the spot where I stood to shoot pictures was a shrub with small leaves. I noticed a small lump on one of the branches. The lump had a hole. I zoomed into the image and saw its a part of the plant. Wondering if the plant had created a nest for some kind of insect. Rajesh and I searched the plant, we couldn't find another one. Need to consult a botanist about this matter.

Movements in the sky cut our attention on the plant. Two kites glided gracefully. I'd not seen any Kites over the monastery earlier in the day. These birds looked larger than the ones I'd seen at Bangalore.

The birds were soon out of our sight. Next were the pines, going by the color they would fall off in a week or two. These pines are the softer variety. The pine cones I'd collected from the botanical garden of Karnataka University were hard, almost wood like. The leaves are needle like so that they don't catch too much snow. How beautiful are the ways of Nature.

Here's a hamlet of some four or five homes. Looks like these homes belong to one family. Of all the villages so far this one is built on the steepest slope. The hamlet has stocked sufficient hay in the form of conical towers, hay wound around wooden poles like cotton-candy.

Another home. There are two houses- big and small. The larger house must be the landlord's home and the smaller one looks like worker's quarter. Family members have gathered in tight groups, warming themselves in sunlight.

The house sits far away from other houses. What a sight! Love those coniferous trees. Across the road, next to the woods is the village we saw earlier. Wish I could stay up here in one of the homes for a week during winter.

We had reached a point where the smooth road ended abruptly and the path ahead was too rough. May be one person could ride comfortably but it wouldn't be safe for two people. Had we gone another kilometer ahead we might have reached snow. The road lead to an ancient temple which is quite popular. It was tempting to go ahead but Rajesh said that wild animals might have come down due to snow We decided not to take too much risk, decided to turn back. This house was the last thing we saw on this mountain. Two women and a dog sat there soaking in the warmth of the afternoon sun. This house is a corrupt version of Kath Kuni architecture.

Mr. Lion checking out the two strangers entering his territory. That spot seems to be his favorite. He's super comfortable lying on a soft bed of dry grass. I envy that guy!

The two women and a man draped in locally made shawls. For one seeing this picture, the brightness of the place might give an impression its warm. Not really. Its cold, for city person like me, it was freezing. Had we gone further up, the temperature would be even lower.

Opposite the house, across the road, the mountain face is steep, we could see straight into the monastery. Rajesh's team would be working on the top most floor of the temple building. Wish I could see the same during winter, when the place is covered in snow.

On the way back, we stopped at another village to check out this temple which is known as Shamshari Mahadev Mandir. This structure is a good example of Kath Kuni architecture. The wood used would be Deodar, the local name for pine. The name Deodar is actually Devadar ~ wood of Devas. Locals believe this wood has special properties- both physical and chemical. It has a pleasant aroma which is retained for centuries. Hence this is the preferred wood for temples.

The temple is built by masons and carpenters. The builders have decorated the structure to the best of their means. Small windows to keep the warm inside. On the door frame is a pair of horns, probably the horns of a mountain goat.

We'll see more of this temple in the following post- a glimpse of Himachal rural life - part 2.
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May 2, 2020

What to see in Kolar district?

Kolar district is the eastern most district of Karnataka. Kolar district came into being in November 1956. Between 1956 and 2007, areas falling within Chikkaballapura district was also part of Kolar district. Nov-2007 Chikkaballapura became a separate district. The present day Kolar district is bound by four neighboring districts- Bangalore rural on the west, Chikballapur on the north-west, Chittoor of Andhra Pradesh on the east and Krishnagiri of Tamil Nadu on the south. Kolar has five taluqas namely Bangarapet, Kolar, Malur, Mulbagal, and Srinivaspura. Kolar is mostly flat with scattered hills and hill ranges. The only river that flows through this district is Palaar which originates on Nadi Betta in Chikballapur district.

Though Kolar district came into being in 1956, its history dates back to II Century CE when Gangas made Kolar their capital. In the IX Century. Kolar was known as many names such as Kolahala, Kuvalala and Kolala, and Kolahalapura. The name Kolahalapura (Kolahala + Pura) means “city of violence” since it was a battlefield during the war between Chalukyas and Cholas. Between 1004 CE and 1116 CE, Kolar was part of Chola kingdom. As a mark of bygone times ancient rulers have left behind few monuments namely Antara Gange, Kolaramma Devastana and Someshwara Devastana. Besides the historic monuments of Kolar city, there are a number of forts and ancient temples spread around the district. British historian, archaeologist and educationist Benjamin Lewis Rice recorded 1347 inscriptions in Kolar district of which 714 inscriptions are in Kannada, 422 are in Tamil and 211 in Telugu. Kolar also is also home to a geological monument. The Pyroclastics & Pillow lava rocks of KGF have been declared as national geological monuments by the Geological Survey of India.

The most notable part of Kolar district's recent history is gold mining. It is said that gold was first mined in in small scale in the II and III centuries CE. In the IX and X Centuries the scale of the operation grew. The modern era of gold mining in India started in 1875 CE which lead to the formation of Kolar Gold Fields (KGF) township. Gold mining was active for over a century, before ceasing operations early 2001 due to economical and environmental reasons. KGF holds the record for hosting India's first power generation unit in 1902, which supported gold mining operations. Bharat Earth Movers Limited was established in KGF to supply & service heavy earth moving equipment used for mining operations. Besides a production center, BEML also has a R&D center.

Present day Kolar is known for production of mango, milk, silk, vegetables and flowers. Farmers of this district progressive and known for their innovative ways to boost production.

Kolaramma Devastana, Someshwara Devastana
Anthara Gange, Kalyana Mantapa

Kotilinga Kshetra, Avani Ramlingeshwara Devastana
KGF Cyanide dumps, Avani Betta

Guttahalli Virupaksha Devastana, Mulbagal fort
Kurudumale fort ruins, Kaki Bise Gowdara Kote
Here's a list of important historic places of Kolar district-

  1. Antargange, Kolar - The shrine is known for its natural source of water and an ancient temple dedicated to Kashi Vishveshwara Swami. The water flows out of a crack in the rock hence the name Anatara Gange (underground stream). Having flown through the soil and rocks, this water is charged with minerals . Hence people of Kolar and surrounding villages come here for a bath in it and also carry it home for consumption. Being situated in the jungle covered hills, this is a popular spot for trekking. Antara Gange is situated in the Shathashrunga range of hills 4 kms west of Kolar city.
  2. Kolaramma Devastana, Kolar - Kolar city name is derived from the this temple's deity Kolaramma (a form of Parvati). This temple's history dates back to II Century CE. It was renovated by the Chola kings in the X Century and again during Vijayanagara rule. The temple walls are covered with inscriptions in Tamil from Chola period. Another deity of this temple is Chelamma, the scorpion goddess. It is said that the Maharajas of Mysore kingdom visited this temple regularly. In fact, the temple is still popular among local people. This temple is situated within the city, about 2 kms from the city bus-stand and two minutes' walk from Someshwara Devastana.
  3. Someshwara Devastana, Kolar - This is the largest temple of Kolar. This temple was built during the XIV Century CE by Vijayanagara kings. Within the premises are two temples dedicated to Someshwara (form of Shiva) and Parvati. The main temple and Kalyana Mantapa are full of amazing sculptures. Also there are two Kalyana Mantapa and Vasantha Mantapa. The temple's Gopuram is a towering structure. Also, besides the temple is an ancient Kalyani. This temple is situated within the city, about 2 kms from the city bus-stand and two minutes' walk from Kolaramma Devastana.
  4. Shiva Gange Devastana, Teerahalli Betta - An ancient temple dedicated to Shiva in Teerahalli Betta. Going by its architecture this group of seems to be built by Vijayanagara kings. The complex has a half-built Gopura, several shrines, Mantapas and a stepped Kalyani as well. The hill gives a nice view of Kolar city and surrounding plains.
  5. Paparajanahalli fort - Ruins of a small fort on Teerahalli Betta. It is said the fort existed from Chola times. However, going by the structures here, they seem to be built during Vijayanagara times. The fort is a good place for Nature lovers. Paparajanahalli fort is about 4 kms west of Kolar. The last kilometre needs to be walked.
  6. Mulbagal fort - Mulbagal is the corrupt form of Mulbagilu which is dervived from the word Mundinabagilu (front door in Kannada). Mulbagilu was the eastern most town of Mysore kingdom hence an important place. The town is situated at the base of a rocky hill on which are ruins of a fort. The fort gives a commanding view of the plains around it. Not much is known about this fort but it seems to be built during Hoysala or Vijayanagara time. At the base of the hill is Subramanya Swamy Devastana. The trekking point starts at the temple. Mulbagal fort is 95 kms from Bangalore and 26 kms from Kolar.
  7. Virupaksha Devastana, Mulbagal - This historic temple is known for its Atma Linga which changes color through out the day. Mornings its is blood red, afternoons it is white and evenings its is honey colored. The architecture of this temple is Vijayanagara, built during th rule of Devaraya II. Besides Gokarna Mahabhaleshwar Devastana, Virupaksha Devastana is the only other temple to have two Shivalingas. Of the two Lingas, one is believed to be worshiped by Atri Maharshi and the other one is Atma-Linga. Virupaksha-Guttahalli is situated 2 kms south-west of Mulabagilu and 28 kms east of Kolar.
  8. Sripadaraja Math and Narasimha Teertha - This Madhwa monastery was the residence of spiritual guru Sreepadaraja Swamiji (Sripadaraya) who lived 600 years ago. Sripadaraya was the Raajaguru for Vijayanagara kings. It is said that Swamiji had penned Keerthans which are still popular. He had composed a Grantha called Vagvajra. Narasimha Teertha is the sacred place where Swamiji lived and his Brindavan is present. Within the premises of this monastar is a temple dedicated to Swayamvyakta Yoga Narasimha.
  9. Kaki Bise Gowdara Kote, Harappanayakanahalli - This fortified residence belonged to a Palegara named Kaki Bise Gowda who served under Hyder Ali. His was responsible for keeping a check on other Palars. Kaki Bise Gowda is known for his role in capturing Chandragiri (near Tirupati in Andhra Pradesh). The historic home still remains occupied by the Palegara's descendants. Harapanayakanahalli is 11 kms north of Mulbagilu and 37 kms east of Kolar.
  10.  Kurudumale fort ruins - Kurudumale is said to be the capital of the Hoysala kingdom. Official records say that the capital Hoysalas was initially at Belur and later moved to Halebidu. It's possible that Kurudumale was capital for the eastern part of the kingdom. Nothing much remains of the fort except for crumbling walls on the hills and in the valleys. Close to the ruins are two ancient temples- Ganesha Devastana and Someshawara Someshwara Devastana. Kurudumale is 30 kms east of Kolar and 12 km north of Mulbagal.
  11. Dodda Ganesha Devastana, Kurudumale - At 13½ feet tall, this is one of the biggest ancient idols of Ganesha. It is larger than Dodda Ganapati of Basavangudi in Bengaluru but slightly shorter than Kadlekalu Ganesha which is approximately 15 feet tall. This temple's history goes back to Chola's time, however it was renovated during Vijayanagara rule.
  12. Someshvara Devastana, Kurudumale - This temple dedicated to Someshwara seems to be built by Hoysala Vijayanagara rulers. Situated over a solid rock bed on the village outskirts, the temple has highly ornate balustrade, columns, beams, walls and idols of Ganesha and Nandi. The temple is easily accessible and worth a visit.
  13. Budikote - This is an historic village dating back to the VIII Century CE. The name Budi-kote literally means fort of ashes. The name is connected to a holocaust that fell upon this place. Budikote is the said to tbe birth place of Hyder Ali, father of Tipu Sultan. The two important temples of this place are Venkataramana and Domeshwara Devasthanas. Budikote is 15 kms southwest of Bangarpet town and 43 kms south of Kolar.
  14. Chikka Tirupathi - Going by the place's name this can be considered as mini Tirupati. The temple's deity is dedicated to Prasanna Venkateshwara also called Srinivasa. The specialty of this deity is its upward pointing palm i.e. Abhayahastha whereas the idol at Tirupathi has a downward pointing palm i.e. Varadahasta. Chikka Tirupaati is 42 kms southwest of Kolar, 16 kms southwest of Malur and 37 kms east of Bangalore.
  15. Tyakal - Also known as Tekal is known for its 101 temples and 101 wells, hence it is known as little Kanchi. Of the 101 temples, only two have survived the  test of time- Varadharaja Devastana and Someshwara Devastana. Tyakal is 20 kms east of Malur and 37 kms southest of Malur. 
  16. Ramlingeshwara temple complex, Avani - This group of temples dates back to the times of Nolambas. The complex has shrines dedicated to Ramalingeshwara, Lakshmanalingeshwara, Bharateshwara, Shatrughnalingeshwara, Vali & Sugreeva, Ramanjaneya and Kamakshi. The temples are simple looking but the architecture and build is impressive. The temple complex is situated at the base of Avani hill. Avani is 23 kms southeast of Kolar.
  17. Avani Betta - The name Avani is derived from Sita's other name Avanisuta meaning 'daughter of Earth' since she was found while ploughing the earth. This hill is connected to tales of Ramayana. On the hill is a temple dedicated  to Sitadevi, one of the few Sita temples ever. Also, it has been believed that Sitadevi gave birth to Lava & Kusha here. The battle between Rama and his sons Lava & Kusha took place here. The trek up the hill would be a pleasant experience. Places to be seen on the hill are Sitadevi Devastana. Valmiki Moolashram, Agni Teertha, and Lakshman Teertha.
  18. Prehistoric site of Hunukunda - Kolar district is a collage of prehistoric sites. Hunkunda is one of the important sites which is connected to ancient gold miners. At Hunukunda, prehistoric artifacts such as  pot-sherds from Neolithic to Early Historic period were found. Also there are several cave shelters which were inhabited by prehistoric man. Hunkunda is situated 22 kms south-east of Kolar. 
  19. Markandeya Gudda and Devastana, Vokkaleri - A hill covered with forest and a temple at the summit. The temple is dedicated to Markandeya, a great disciple of Lord Shiva. The hill is situated close to Vakkaleri village, visitors can either drive up the hill or take the steps up the hill. Markandeya hills is 27 kms south-west of Kolar, off Kolar-Malur highway. 
  20. Mining relics and cyanide dumps - The century old mining center is a historical monument in its own way. The mining operations began in the year 1873 and active until it was shut down in 2001. In 1902 the mines were electrified, making KGF as the second place in Asia. In those 125 years operations, KGF produced several thousand tonnes of gold. Being an underground mine, shafts and tunnels were bored into the ground. KGF had close to 12 shafts of which the renowned are Gifford's Shaft and Tenet's Shaft at Champion Reef, Bullen Shaft, Old Golconda Shaft, New Golconda Shaft, Balaghat Shaft, Henry’s shaft, Road block, and Commercial shaft. The mining activity generated huge quantities of bored out earth and other matter which were dumped systemically. The dumps ended up like hills are known as Cyanide mountains. The dumps are health hazard since dust from it causes respiratory issues. A tour around KGF would be an interesting outing.
  21. KGF Club - This club was established in 1885, it was the first club of KGF and also fourth oldest golf club in India. The club buildings were built of stones quarried from the area itself and fitted with teak wood doors and windows. The century old club still has a colonial ambiance. Check out old photos of KGF Club.
  22. St. Michael's and All Angels' Church - This was the one of the first Anglican churches in KGF. The building is stone and mortar structure, a classic example of British architecture in India. The church came into existence when the original church i.e. St. Pauls Church was shifted from Oorgaumpet to Robertsonpet. It's history goes back to 1894 when a small structure was erected at Oorgaumpet. In 1903 construction of a  new building was commenced after the old church's condition started deteriorating. The church celebrated its centenary in 2005.
  23. St. Sebastian Church - This church established in 1899 was mainly for the Catholic people living in the mining areas of Balaghat, Coromandel, Gold Field Hill and Nandydroog Mine. This church is popular for its statue of St. Roch, a patron saint against plague cholera and skin rashes. The church's original building was brought down and a new one constructed recently.
  24. Kotilinga Kshetra - Kotilinga Kshetra name can be split into Koti + Linga. Koti means a crore (ten million), Linga is the symbol of Shiva and Kshetra means holy place. This centre consists of a temple and an open space next to it. At the center of the open space are huge idols of Linga and Nandi measuring 108 feet and 35 feet respectively. Rest of the open space is covered with eleven shrines and thousands of Shivalingas.. small, medium, and large sized idols. Every surface is covered with Lingas, even wall tops. The temple is situated 35 kms southeast of Kolar and 7.5 kms east of KGF. 
  25. Bethamangala lake and water works - Bethamangala is known for its reservoir formed by a dam across river Palar river. Next to the lake is Bethamangala Water Works which was established in 1904. The century old water treatment plant is functional to this day and continues to supply water to KGF township. This lake is also a popular tourist site. During the British times, a sailing club was established here. The European population came here for swimming, fishing, boating and picnic. The club house was was later converted into a government museum. Bethamangala lake is about 12 kms from KGF and 36 kms southeast of Kolar. 
  26. Bangaru Tirupati - This temple is said to resemble famous Thirumala Venkateshwara Devastana. Bangaru Tirupathi temple is situated on a rocky hillock near Guttahalli village. Its history dates back to Brigu Maharushi's time. Bangaru Tirupati is situated 38 kms southeast of Kolar and 18 kms northeast of KGF. Note- Bangaru Tirupati and Chikka Tirupati are two different places.
The source of cyanide dump image and bits of information in this post is Bridget White-Kumar's blog Memories of KGF. It wouldn't be wrong to call it an encyclopedia of KGF's history.

I might have missed out historic or interesting places. Do let me know the details, I'll be happy to update the post.

In case you would like to know about other districts of Karnataka, here's a list. Click on the district you would like to read about.
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