May 2, 2020

What to see in Kolar district?

Kolar district is the eastern most district of Karnataka. Kolar district came into being in November 1956. Between 1956 and 2007, areas falling within Chikkaballapura district was also part of Kolar district. Nov-2007 Chikkaballapura became a separate district. The present day Kolar district is bound by four neighboring districts- Bangalore rural on the west, Chikballapur on the north-west, Chittoor of Andhra Pradesh on the east and Krishnagiri of Tamil Nadu on the south. Kolar has five taluqas namely Bangarapet, Kolar, Malur, Mulbagal, and Srinivaspura. Kolar is mostly flat with scattered hills and hill ranges. The only river that flows through this district is Palaar which originates on Nadi Betta in Chikballapur district.

Though Kolar district came into being in 1956, its history dates back to II Century CE when Gangas made Kolar their capital. In the IX Century. Kolar was known as many names such as Kolahala, Kuvalala and Kolala, and Kolahalapura. The name Kolahalapura (Kolahala + Pura) means “city of violence” since it was a battlefield during the war between Chalukyas and Cholas. Between 1004 CE and 1116 CE, Kolar was part of Chola kingdom. As a mark of bygone times ancient rulers have left behind few monuments namely Antara Gange, Kolaramma Devastana and Someshwara Devastana. Besides the historic monuments of Kolar city, there are a number of forts and ancient temples spread around the district. British historian, archaeologist and educationist Benjamin Lewis Rice recorded 1347 inscriptions in Kolar district of which 714 inscriptions are in Kannada, 422 are in Tamil and 211 in Telugu. Kolar also is also home to a geological monument. The Pyroclastics & Pillow lava rocks of KGF have been declared as national geological monuments by the Geological Survey of India.

The most notable part of Kolar district's recent history is gold mining. It is said that gold was first mined in in small scale in the II and III centuries CE. In the IX and X Centuries the scale of the operation grew. The modern era of gold mining in India started in 1875 CE which lead to the formation of Kolar Gold Fields (KGF) township. Gold mining was active for over a century, before ceasing operations early 2001 due to economical and environmental reasons. KGF holds the record for hosting India's first power generation unit in 1902, which supported gold mining operations. Bharat Earth Movers Limited was established in KGF to supply & service heavy earth moving equipment used for mining operations. Besides a production center, BEML also has a R&D center.

Present day Kolar is known for production of mango, milk, silk, vegetables and flowers. Farmers of this district progressive and known for their innovative ways to boost production.

Kolaramma Devastana, Someshwara Devastana
Anthara Gange, Kalyana Mantapa

Kotilinga Kshetra, Avani Ramlingeshwara Devastana
KGF Cyanide dumps, Avani Betta

Guttahalli Virupaksha Devastana, Mulbagal fort
Kurudumale fort ruins, Kaki Bise Gowdara Kote
Here's a list of important historic places of Kolar district-

  1. Antargange, Kolar - The shrine is known for its natural source of water and an ancient temple dedicated to Kashi Vishveshwara Swami. The water flows out of a crack in the rock hence the name Anatara Gange (underground stream). Having flown through the soil and rocks, this water is charged with minerals . Hence people of Kolar and surrounding villages come here for a bath in it and also carry it home for consumption. Being situated in the jungle covered hills, this is a popular spot for trekking. Antara Gange is situated in the Shathashrunga range of hills 4 kms west of Kolar city.
  2. Kolaramma Devastana, Kolar - Kolar city name is derived from the this temple's deity Kolaramma (a form of Parvati). This temple's history dates back to II Century CE. It was renovated by the Chola kings in the X Century and again during Vijayanagara rule. The temple walls are covered with inscriptions in Tamil from Chola period. Another deity of this temple is Chelamma, the scorpion goddess. It is said that the Maharajas of Mysore kingdom visited this temple regularly. In fact, the temple is still popular among local people. This temple is situated within the city, about 2 kms from the city bus-stand and two minutes' walk from Someshwara Devastana.
  3. Someshwara Devastana, Kolar - This is the largest temple of Kolar. This temple was built during the XIV Century CE by Vijayanagara kings. Within the premises are two temples dedicated to Someshwara (form of Shiva) and Parvati. The main temple and Kalyana Mantapa are full of amazing sculptures. Also there are two Kalyana Mantapa and Vasantha Mantapa. The temple's Gopuram is a towering structure. Also, besides the temple is an ancient Kalyani. This temple is situated within the city, about 2 kms from the city bus-stand and two minutes' walk from Kolaramma Devastana.
  4. Shiva Gange Devastana, Teerahalli Betta - An ancient temple dedicated to Shiva in Teerahalli Betta. Going by its architecture this group of seems to be built by Vijayanagara kings. The complex has a half-built Gopura, several shrines, Mantapas and a stepped Kalyani as well. The hill gives a nice view of Kolar city and surrounding plains.
  5. Paparajanahalli fort - Ruins of a small fort on Teerahalli Betta. It is said the fort existed from Chola times. However, going by the structures here, they seem to be built during Vijayanagara times. The fort is a good place for Nature lovers. Paparajanahalli fort is about 4 kms west of Kolar. The last kilometre needs to be walked.
  6. Mulbagal fort - Mulbagal is the corrupt form of Mulbagilu which is dervived from the word Mundinabagilu (front door in Kannada). Mulbagilu was the eastern most town of Mysore kingdom hence an important place. The town is situated at the base of a rocky hill on which are ruins of a fort. The fort gives a commanding view of the plains around it. Not much is known about this fort but it seems to be built during Hoysala or Vijayanagara time. At the base of the hill is Subramanya Swamy Devastana. The trekking point starts at the temple. Mulbagal fort is 95 kms from Bangalore and 26 kms from Kolar.
  7. Virupaksha Devastana, Mulbagal - This historic temple is known for its Atma Linga which changes color through out the day. Mornings its is blood red, afternoons it is white and evenings its is honey colored. The architecture of this temple is Vijayanagara, built during th rule of Devaraya II. Besides Gokarna Mahabhaleshwar Devastana, Virupaksha Devastana is the only other temple to have two Shivalingas. Of the two Lingas, one is believed to be worshiped by Atri Maharshi and the other one is Atma-Linga. Virupaksha-Guttahalli is situated 2 kms south-west of Mulabagilu and 28 kms east of Kolar.
  8. Sripadaraja Math and Narasimha Teertha - This Madhwa monastery was the residence of spiritual guru Sreepadaraja Swamiji (Sripadaraya) who lived 600 years ago. Sripadaraya was the Raajaguru for Vijayanagara kings. It is said that Swamiji had penned Keerthans which are still popular. He had composed a Grantha called Vagvajra. Narasimha Teertha is the sacred place where Swamiji lived and his Brindavan is present. Within the premises of this monastar is a temple dedicated to Swayamvyakta Yoga Narasimha.
  9. Kaki Bise Gowdara Kote, Harappanayakanahalli - This fortified residence belonged to a Palegara named Kaki Bise Gowda who served under Hyder Ali. His was responsible for keeping a check on other Palars. Kaki Bise Gowda is known for his role in capturing Chandragiri (near Tirupati in Andhra Pradesh). The historic home still remains occupied by the Palegara's descendants. Harapanayakanahalli is 11 kms north of Mulbagilu and 37 kms east of Kolar.
  10.  Kurudumale fort ruins - Kurudumale is said to be the capital of the Hoysala kingdom. Official records say that the capital Hoysalas was initially at Belur and later moved to Halebidu. It's possible that Kurudumale was capital for the eastern part of the kingdom. Nothing much remains of the fort except for crumbling walls on the hills and in the valleys. Close to the ruins are two ancient temples- Ganesha Devastana and Someshawara Someshwara Devastana. Kurudumale is 30 kms east of Kolar and 12 km north of Mulbagal.
  11. Dodda Ganesha Devastana, Kurudumale - At 13½ feet tall, this is one of the biggest ancient idols of Ganesha. It is larger than Dodda Ganapati of Basavangudi in Bengaluru but slightly shorter than Kadlekalu Ganesha which is approximately 15 feet tall. This temple's history goes back to Chola's time, however it was renovated during Vijayanagara rule.
  12. Someshvara Devastana, Kurudumale - This temple dedicated to Someshwara seems to be built by Hoysala Vijayanagara rulers. Situated over a solid rock bed on the village outskirts, the temple has highly ornate balustrade, columns, beams, walls and idols of Ganesha and Nandi. The temple is easily accessible and worth a visit.
  13. Budikote - This is an historic village dating back to the VIII Century CE. The name Budi-kote literally means fort of ashes. The name is connected to a holocaust that fell upon this place. Budikote is the said to tbe birth place of Hyder Ali, father of Tipu Sultan. The two important temples of this place are Venkataramana and Domeshwara Devasthanas. Budikote is 15 kms southwest of Bangarpet town and 43 kms south of Kolar.
  14. Chikka Tirupathi - Going by the place's name this can be considered as mini Tirupati. The temple's deity is dedicated to Prasanna Venkateshwara also called Srinivasa. The specialty of this deity is its upward pointing palm i.e. Abhayahastha whereas the idol at Tirupathi has a downward pointing palm i.e. Varadahasta. Chikka Tirupaati is 42 kms southwest of Kolar, 16 kms southwest of Malur and 37 kms east of Bangalore.
  15. Tyakal - Also known as Tekal is known for its 101 temples and 101 wells, hence it is known as little Kanchi. Of the 101 temples, only two have survived the  test of time- Varadharaja Devastana and Someshwara Devastana. Tyakal is 20 kms east of Malur and 37 kms southest of Malur. 
  16. Ramlingeshwara temple complex, Avani - This group of temples dates back to the times of Nolambas. The complex has shrines dedicated to Ramalingeshwara, Lakshmanalingeshwara, Bharateshwara, Shatrughnalingeshwara, Vali & Sugreeva, Ramanjaneya and Kamakshi. The temples are simple looking but the architecture and build is impressive. The temple complex is situated at the base of Avani hill. Avani is 23 kms southeast of Kolar.
  17. Avani Betta - The name Avani is derived from Sita's other name Avanisuta meaning 'daughter of Earth' since she was found while ploughing the earth. This hill is connected to tales of Ramayana. On the hill is a temple dedicated  to Sitadevi, one of the few Sita temples ever. Also, it has been believed that Sitadevi gave birth to Lava & Kusha here. The battle between Rama and his sons Lava & Kusha took place here. The trek up the hill would be a pleasant experience. Places to be seen on the hill are Sitadevi Devastana. Valmiki Moolashram, Agni Teertha, and Lakshman Teertha.
  18. Prehistoric site of Hunukunda - Kolar district is a collage of prehistoric sites. Hunkunda is one of the important sites which is connected to ancient gold miners. At Hunukunda, prehistoric artifacts such as  pot-sherds from Neolithic to Early Historic period were found. Also there are several cave shelters which were inhabited by prehistoric man. Hunkunda is situated 22 kms south-east of Kolar. 
  19. Markandeya Gudda and Devastana, Vokkaleri - A hill covered with forest and a temple at the summit. The temple is dedicated to Markandeya, a great disciple of Lord Shiva. The hill is situated close to Vakkaleri village, visitors can either drive up the hill or take the steps up the hill. Markandeya hills is 27 kms south-west of Kolar, off Kolar-Malur highway. 
  20. Mining relics and cyanide dumps - The century old mining center is a historical monument in its own way. The mining operations began in the year 1873 and active until it was shut down in 2001. In 1902 the mines were electrified, making KGF as the second place in Asia. In those 125 years operations, KGF produced several thousand tonnes of gold. Being an underground mine, shafts and tunnels were bored into the ground. KGF had close to 12 shafts of which the renowned are Gifford's Shaft and Tenet's Shaft at Champion Reef, Bullen Shaft, Old Golconda Shaft, New Golconda Shaft, Balaghat Shaft, Henry’s shaft, Road block, and Commercial shaft. The mining activity generated huge quantities of bored out earth and other matter which were dumped systemically. The dumps ended up like hills are known as Cyanide mountains. The dumps are health hazard since dust from it causes respiratory issues. A tour around KGF would be an interesting outing.
  21. KGF Club - This club was established in 1885, it was the first club of KGF and also fourth oldest golf club in India. The club buildings were built of stones quarried from the area itself and fitted with teak wood doors and windows. The century old club still has a colonial ambiance. Check out old photos of KGF Club.
  22. St. Michael's and All Angels' Church - This was the one of the first Anglican churches in KGF. The building is stone and mortar structure, a classic example of British architecture in India. The church came into existence when the original church i.e. St. Pauls Church was shifted from Oorgaumpet to Robertsonpet. It's history goes back to 1894 when a small structure was erected at Oorgaumpet. In 1903 construction of a  new building was commenced after the old church's condition started deteriorating. The church celebrated its centenary in 2005.
  23. St. Sebastian Church - This church established in 1899 was mainly for the Catholic people living in the mining areas of Balaghat, Coromandel, Gold Field Hill and Nandydroog Mine. This church is popular for its statue of St. Roch, a patron saint against plague cholera and skin rashes. The church's original building was brought down and a new one constructed recently.
  24. Kotilinga Kshetra - Kotilinga Kshetra name can be split into Koti + Linga. Koti means a crore (ten million), Linga is the symbol of Shiva and Kshetra means holy place. This centre consists of a temple and an open space next to it. At the center of the open space are huge idols of Linga and Nandi measuring 108 feet and 35 feet respectively. Rest of the open space is covered with eleven shrines and thousands of Shivalingas.. small, medium, and large sized idols. Every surface is covered with Lingas, even wall tops. The temple is situated 35 kms southeast of Kolar and 7.5 kms east of KGF. 
  25. Bethamangala lake and water works - Bethamangala is known for its reservoir formed by a dam across river Palar river. Next to the lake is Bethamangala Water Works which was established in 1904. The century old water treatment plant is functional to this day and continues to supply water to KGF township. This lake is also a popular tourist site. During the British times, a sailing club was established here. The European population came here for swimming, fishing, boating and picnic. The club house was was later converted into a government museum. Bethamangala lake is about 12 kms from KGF and 36 kms southeast of Kolar. 
  26. Bangaru Tirupati - This temple is said to resemble famous Thirumala Venkateshwara Devastana. Bangaru Tirupathi temple is situated on a rocky hillock near Guttahalli village. Its history dates back to Brigu Maharushi's time. Bangaru Tirupati is situated 38 kms southeast of Kolar and 18 kms northeast of KGF. Note- Bangaru Tirupati and Chikka Tirupati are two different places.
The source of cyanide dump image and bits of information in this post is Bridget White-Kumar's blog Memories of KGF. It wouldn't be wrong to call it an encyclopedia of KGF's history.

I might have missed out historic or interesting places. Do let me know the details, I'll be happy to update the post.

In case you would like to know about other districts of Karnataka, here's a list. Click on the district you would like to read about.
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4 comments:

Anonymous said...

Good info.

siddeshwar said...

thank you.

Nikhil said...

I like these sumaary posts of yours, give a good picture of a regions whenever one plans. Noticed that the link (Someshvara Devastana, Kurudumale) is incorrect. At Kurudumale there are so many temples, some not even protected. Have you covered them all? I had been there on a trip with Karnataka Itihasa Academy, it was a wonderful place to be in the evening.

siddeshwar said...

The incorrect links have been fixed, Nikhil. Good you noticed them. Kurudumalae has many temples and ruins on the hills but we were short of time, couldn't even explore the hills. Except Ganesha and Someshwara, all the other monuments are in a state of neglect. During my visit to Kolar, I completely missed the Shiva-Gange temple complex and Paparajanahalli fort in the hills, east of Kolar. I guess both are relatively easy to reach. Thank you again, Nikhil :)