Sri Chennakeshava Swami Devastana, Araluguppe

...continued from Chennakeshava Devastana, Turuvekere. 

Jan 27, 2023. After a good breakfast I left Turuvekere. On the way out I bought avarekayi since this is area is avarekayi belt. A similar looking avarekayi is grown around Dharwad but this variety lacks the aroma of southern Karnataka avarekayi. During the stop I inquired the route to Aralaguppe, two or three people I asked didn't know the exact route. And Google Maps may not be reliable in this part. Anyway, I followed the road in the general direction of Araluguppe. After 12.5 km at Banasandra I turned left. The road was condition was good, almost zero traffic, it was kind of desolate, lot of forks and side roads, it was a little confusing at forks... what side to go and no one in sight. I followed my intuition and the moment anyone came into sight, I stopped and confirmed if that was the right way. I reached Aralaguppe without getting lost and then I saw a board stating "Chennakesava Temple" less than 100 meters from it. This was the situation with Nagalpura as well. I wish government departments or local youth groups plant boards at junctions showing directions.

Aralaguppe seemed like a clean and peaceful little village. I parked my car close to the temple and as I entered the caretaker appeared. Like other ASI protected monuments, this caretaker told me not to shoot with DSLR but mobile was okay. To hear this verbal rule is always irritating. Why can't ASI put it in writing? I told the caretaker to convey my displeasure especially after having struggled to reach the place. I don't think he would convey my message to his boss at ASI. Anyway, let me start the tour of this magnificent temple built around 1250 CE during the rule of the Hoysala king Vira Someshwara.

A board planted in front at the entrance describes the temple as follows:

This Ekakuta temple was constructed in 13th century ad during the Hoysala period. It is built on a 4 feet high Jagati. The temple has a Garbhagriha, Sukanasi and Navaranga with an entrance porch at east. A separate shrine is built for Narasimha at south. The basement of the temple consists of fine friezes of rows of elephants, horses, scrolls and depiction of Puranic scenes. The walls are embellished with sculptures of Vishnu in his twenty-four forms flanked by Sridevi and Bhudevi, sculptures of Yaksha and Yakshi, Latangis and other secular themes all under Patralata-Torana. The noteworthy sculptures are Narayana, Lakshmi, dancing Ganesha, Mohini, Shadbhuja-Saraswati, Venugopala, Krishna, Lakshmi-Narasimha and Ugra-Narasimha etc. Many of these sculptures have the name of the sculptor as Honnoja inscribed below them. The Garbhagriha has a beautiful Shikara in four tiers of Vesara type. It is decorated with miniature turrets.

At the interior the Navaranga has beautiful pillars of Hoysala architectural features. The niches on the walls have sculptures of Ganesha and Mahishamardini. There is also a sculpture of Keshava about 6 feet high. The central ceiling (Bhuvaneshvari) has a row of Yakshas and a hanging flower bud. The Sukanasi doorway has Jalandras, Dwarapala and sculpture of Narayana flanked by miniature turrets. The Garbhagriha houses sculpture of Keshava of Hoysala period. The Prabhavali has miniature sculptures of Dasavataras of Vishnu.

This substructure is actually the Mukhamantapa. Normally Mukhamantapa are open, like a porch, but here the Mantapa has perforated slabs around it. The doorframe is relatively simple since it has a pair of undecorated slabs.

The architecture is standard Hoysala type with the temple sitting on a platform, the rear part of the platform is start-shaped in plan. The exterior walls have 3 main sections above which is the canopy. Every section has a theme of sculptures. The upper one has scale model temples, the mid section consists of idols of Vishnu and other characters, and the lower section is further divided into six tiers with specific theme. Starting with the lowest tier... elephants, horses, creepers, panels of legendary tales, Yalis and the topmost tier has swans.

Let's go around the temple in clockwise direction. The first idol is Vishnu seated on a coiled serpent Adishesha, the serpent's seven headed hood is sheltering Vishnu. Next, facing south is a four-armed Ganapati.

The following idols are mostly Vishnu & Lakshmi in different forms & postures. One of the idols here is Lakshmi-Narasimha, Lakshmi seated on Narasimha's lap.

I guess the idol on the left is Lakshmi-Narayana and on the right is four-armed Vishnu with Varada-Hasta the hand that grants boons.

Here are idols of standing Vishnu with Abhaya-Hasta the hand that assures protection & safety.

A glance at the upper section of the wall and the canopy. The star-shaped plan is consistent from the temple platform to the walls, the canopy and the Shikhara. The canopy's inner side too has details as seen in wood work. The canopy designs of Chalukyan temples and Hoysala temples are different.

Then here's a four-armed Vishnu with Shankha, Chakra, sword and shield. He looks he's ready for a small confrontation.

Vishnu on the right has both Varada-Hasta and Abhaya-Hasta.... take a boon and be protected. Vishnu on the left is holding a plant like object with his rear-right hand. No idea what it signifies.

Moving on, there's a Vishnu's Avatar Krishna. Krishna is subduing Kaliya the evil serpent by stepping on its head. Part of the serpent is missing, broken by the same vandals who have defaced many of the idols here.

On the south-western side of Chennakesava temple is another structure which is fully enclosed. This second temple, a south-facing one, is dedicated to Ugra Narasimha sits on a rectangular platform. This temple has no Shikhara but an ornate stucco crown. Going by the architecture this seems like a Vijayanagara time addition.

There was news about plans for relocating this temple however the plan was shelved due to objections from village folks. If not for this temple, we would've had a clear view of Chennakesava temple.

A glance at the highly complicated Shikhara also called Vimana. This is a three tiered Shikhara.

One of the corners of the star-shaped platform. This particular corner is aligned to the Garbhagudi Theerta. The other interesting thing here are the stone elephants placed at few of the corners. Going by the looks of the stone work of the platform, it seems like original condition. Even if it were redone, it was not later than Vijayanagara times, I feel.

A closer look at one of the elephants.

Coming to the northern side. Most of the idols of Vishnu were more or less the same unless I missed something. I wonder why other Avatars of Vishnu haven't been represented, for example Matsya, Kurma, Varaha or Vamana. Anyway, on this side I found some interesting sculptures of bullock carts and wagons. See the tandem carts and three pairs of oxen hitched on to them.

Here we have one cart and two wagons. On the cart are two people and a piece of furniture. Behind the cart are stacks of pots, probably waiting to be loaded and transported. In those times for wagons to be used roads must've been pretty good. It would be interesting to delve into the traffic rules of those times ...wondering if there are any records.

The northern wall of the Sabhamanatapa, idols of Vishnu in his usual form.

Back to the front, the other side of Mukhamantapa. Perforated stone slabs between the pillars blocks direct view of the interior.

A pair of Mantapa flanks the platform steps. None of the Hoysala temples seen in Tumkur district have had balustraded steps which is a common feature in Chalukyn temples.

I thanked the caretaker and prepare to leave. One other spot to see at Aralaguppe is Kalleshwara group of temples situated on the lake bank. A few yards from the temple gate are a pair of standing stone slabs. Lets take a look at them in the next post.

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Chennigaraya Devastana, Turuvekere

...continued from Moole Shankareshwara Devastana.

Jan 27, 2023. My plan for the morning was to cover temples of Vignasante, Turuvekere and Araluguppe. I started with Lakshmi Narasimha Devastana, Vignasante and then drove to Turuvekere. At Turuvekere, I first stopped at Beteraya Devastana but the temple gates were locked, I moved to Gangadhareshwara Devastana which was under renovation. I missed seeing the deity, saw only the big idol of Nandi and the stone bell. Then a minute's walk away was Moole Shankareshwara which too was under renovation but I could see the deity and the inside of the temple. Then I walk to the last item on Turuvekere list, Chennigaraya or Chennakeshava Devastana, just 300 meters away. On the way I knocked on the Archaka's house door and requested for a Darshan. The Archaka obliged and let me see the deity, a beautiful idol of Vishnu made of black stone. Photography of the interior wasn't allowed, I can show only the exterior.

This is the east-facing Ekakuta temple with a Mukhamantapa, a Sabhamantapa with Natyamantapa, a Antharala and Garbhagudi. The Garbhagudi plan is star-shaped. As per inscriptions on the walls this temple was completed early XIII Century CE. Inscriptions at this temple are said to be of XIII Century and XVI Century.

This temple has seen some repair work recently hence it's good condition. This is relatively simple in terms of ornate sculpture but an elegant structure. The Mukhamantapa (porch) has four turned pillars and a Sukhanasi (seating platform). Each of the pillars of ancient structures like this are an assembly of 3 or 4 self-aligning components. They are designed to maintain equilibrium during earthquakes.

This is the Mukhamantapa ceiling. Nine lotus flowers grace the spaces formed by the roof slabs.

On the lintel beams are several lines of Kannada inscription.

The external walls are in standard design seen in most ancient temples of our land.

Coming to the rear of the temple, we get a full view of Garbhagudi walls and Shikhara. This temple like Moole Shankareshwara and Vignasante Lakshmi Narasimha is a completed structure. For the reader's information, I would to add here that the two temples of Nagalapura are incomplete, work had stopped for some reason. 

North-eastern view. The temple platform has been washed with water, it was a nice feeling to walk barefoot on freshly watered stone slabs.

Time to move on to my next destination- Araluguppe. Before that I had to take care of hunger. I went in search of an eatery serving tatte idli. I found one opposite APMC yard. Though the place was a little cramped, food served was fresh-n-hot.

Just as I finished breakfast, my friend Sridhar called me after being unreachable for two days. He was on his way to Bhogasandra which is about 13 km from Nittur. Our original plan was to travel together from Bengaluru to Bhogasandra. The plan was to catch up at Bhogansandra now. However, I was supposed to travel back to Dharwad that afternoon soon after Araluguppe visit. So the decision to go to Bhogasandra was on hold for time being.

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Moole Shankareshwara Devastana, Turuvekere

Historically Turuvekere was a Agrahara, an enclave of Brahmin people who pursued academics. Also Turuvekere was a religious center during Hoysala times, probably even earlier too. Today, Turuvekere is home to several temples of which four are tourist attractions- 1. Gangadhareshwara, 2. Chennigaraya Swamy, 3. Moole Shankareshwara and 4. Beteraya Swamy. These temples are concentrated in the north-western part of this little town, walkable distances from each other.

Jan 27, 2023. On reaching Turuvekere, I first stopped at Beteraya Devastana, the gates will still locked. I moved on to Ganagadhareshwara Devastana, an ancient shrine dedicated to Shiva. This temple was under renovation hence temple was closed, probably pooja was not being done. The two main attractions of Gangadhareshwara Devastana are- 1. a large idol of Nandi and 2. a big bell made of soapstone hanging from the porch of the side entrance. Next I headed towards Moole Shankara Gudi, about 120m away. This part of Turuvekere is basically a residential locality, it was peaceful. Moole Shankara Gudi is situated close to the town, beyond the coconut trees seen in the picture below, is Turuvekere lake. Apparently this temple was flooded with lake water and remained neglected for sometime. Currently the temple is being renovated, a construction team had just begun their day's work.

As per online sources, Moole Shankareshwara Devastana was completed around 1260 CE during the rule of Hoysala king Narasimha II. This is a Ekakuta meaning a temple with one sanctum and one entrance. Although the temple door is south-facing, the sanctum is east-facing. The temple plan is said to be Bhumija Nagara style on Moola-prasada (semi-stellate base) hence the name Moole Shankareshwara. The temple is complete with a Shikhara over its Garbhagudi.

The Mukhamantapa (porch has a Sukanasi (sitting platform). On entering the temple, its the Sabhamantapa with a central NatyaMantapa. Before sseeing the interiors, I'll go around the temple first.

This is the eastern wall. In this wall is a port hole which gives a view of the Sabhamantapa and Garbhagudi. On the right hand side is the Stambha, not sure what it's called... Dwajastambha, Vijayastambha, or Deepastambha.

The porthole in the eastern wall. This temple has been restored, the roof especially has been done up fully.

North-eastern view. The temple has a wide open space on its backside which is being levelled with granite slabs. This space would be convenient during special rituals.

Back at the front... a side view of the Mukhamantapa.

At the temple entrance is a damaged idol of Shankara seated on a throne with a Kirtimukha at its head.

View of the Sabhamantapa. Directly ahead is the Garbhagudi connected to the Sabhamantapa through an Antharala (vestibule). The deity is a Shivalinga. The Garbhagudi is flanked by idols of Ganesha and Shanmugha. The lady seen here is the caretaker who opened the temple for my visit.

Nandi seated opposite Shivalinga.

The pillars are simpler compared to other Hoysala temples in Turuvekere taluq.

Having seen the inside of the temple and a quick Darshan of Moole Shankara, I thank the lady and step out. Before I close this post, lets take a quick look at the base of the Stambha. The southern face has a carving of Nandi.

Not much is known about this temple but happy it has been protected and preserved. I move on, towards Chennakeshaava Devastana, about 300 meters away.

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Sri Gangadareshwara Devastana, Turuvekere

Present day Turuvekere is a taluq capital in Tumakuru district. Historically it was an Agrahara where Brahmin people pursued academic paths. As per XIII Century inscriptions found in Hoysala temples, Turuvekere was known as as Sarvagna Sri Vijaya Narasimha Pura. Turuvekere is home to several temples of which the following are visited by tourists: 1. Gangadhareshwara, 2. Chennigaraya Swamy, 3. Moole Shankareshwara and 4. Beteraya Swamy. All these temples are concentrated in the north-western part of this little town, walkable distances from each other.

Jan 27, 2023. The started with a short visit to Sri Lakshminarasimha Devastana at Vignasate. Then a 25 minute drive to Turuvekere. First I went to Beteraya Devastana but the gates were still closed. This part of the town is basically residential with temples scattered in between. There are so many smaller temples, all are ancient but their structures are modern. Negotiating the narrow streets I proceeded towards Gangadhareshwara Devastana. I parked my car in the open space in front of the temple. The temple gateway just a few meters away was unrecognizable because of construction debris. Ganagdhareshwara temple was being renovated.

This is the pillared mantapa in front of the temple under which sits a huge Nandi. One could call this Nandi Mantapa.

The Nandi was covered in a plastic sheet to protect it from dust. The construction team was camping in a room next to Nandi Mantapa. I requested them to remove the sheet and they were kind enough to oblige. The 5' high Nandi idol is situated on a 3' high platform. The idol is made of black stone, surface is mirror like. Wish I had seen this Nandi well before the renovation.

Nandi covered in cement dust. Hope the renovation gets done soon.

Ganagdhreshwara shrine was kept closed, not sure if pooja was being performed because of construction activities. Shiva is called as Gangadhareshwara and Shashidhara because of Ganga & Shashi (Moon) on his hairlocks.

The southeastern view of this north-facing temple. I think this is a Ekakuta meaning a temple with one sanctum. It seems to be having a large Sabhamanatapa which connects to the Garbhagudi through a Antharala (vestibule). Its my observation that many Shiva temples are either east or north-facing, having a main door and one side door as well. For example- Someshwara Devastana, Dharwad or Kalleshwara Devastana, Bagali or Sangameshwara Devastana.

Besides the Nandi idol, the other amazing piece of sculpture is the stone bell which hangs from the mantapa attached to the side entrance. It's my estimate that the bell is 18" diameter at its rim and probably 30" high. I could touch the bell with my hands. Out of curiosity I knocked it with a finger and it produce a metallic sound. This bell is supposed to be made of soapstone. In fact many temples in Turuvekere taluq are built of soapstone blocks.

A closer look at the bell. It has a greenish coat, just like greenish layers seen on copperware. It's truly an amazing piece or artwork.

Ringing stones are one of many wonders of Mother Nature. And our ancient builders vast and deep geological knowledge enabled them to enhance Nature's wonders. I was so curious that went on knocking on the inside of the bell's rim, the soft sound was so pleasant. I wanted to tap it with a piece of hard wood but couldn't find any. Usually metallic bells have metallic or wooden gongs. Then there are gongs made of animal bone. I think Marikamba Devastana at Sirsi has a bell with bone gong.

The rear wall of the sanctum. The Shikhara is brick & mortar construction which mainly became a regular feature from Vijayanagara time.

A small south-facing shrine. If I'm right there wasn't any deity in it.

This is another temple, aligned at a right angle to Ganagdhareshwara. I couldn't make out of the sanctum had any deity.

Done with the temple tour, I thanked and said bye to the construction team. I had parked my car close to a Deepstambha which appears to belong to Gangadhareshwara. Only one face of the pillar had relief works- a Nandi and a praying couple.

A minute's walk from here towards north is Moole Shankareshwara Devastana and a 3 minute walk in the westerly direction is Chennigaraya Devastana.

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