Dec 31, 2022

Baobab trees in Karnataka and Telangana

The first time I saw a Baobab tree was on a cinema screen, think it was "Gods must be crazy." Mostly shot in an African country, the cinema was a peep into the wilderness of the dark continent. Like many people I was fascinated by the unique looking tree. With huge bottle shaped trunks and spindly branches sticking out some of them looked like badly made scarecrows. As I remember there weren't many leaves. Probably the scenes were shot when Baobabs had shed leaves. Despite their odd looks, they were beautiful and ever interesting. With the available information back then, for me Baobabs existed only in Africa, I had no clue they existed in our country. The first time I saw a Baobab for real was at Savanur. It was a freak discovery. The purpose of my visit to Savanur was to see the remains of a fort. While inquiring about the scattered ruins, a local man told us to check out the huge trees of Dodda Hunase Mata, the word Baobab was never mentioned. When we reached the Mata, it was a pleasant surprise, happy to be seeing a rare tree.
Savanur Baobabs ignited the research of Baobabs in our country. Online search revealed Baobab sites mostly on the western side and a few deep inside. Apparently there (were) thousands in Gujarat and Maharashtra however the information needs verification. For the southern states, Baobab is a rare tree, the number in all four states can be counted in one or two hands. between 2011 and 2018 got to see 5 of 7 Baobab sites mentioned here. The remaining 2 were visited by my friends and I got to see those Baobabs through their eyes and cameras.
Below are pictures of the Baobabs of the 5 sites I have visited and 2 sites visited by my friends. Going by the forms & sizes of these trees, I feel the climatic & soil conditions have had a major role in the trees' development.
1. Dodda-Hunase Mata, Savanur: Pictures of Savanur Baobabs were taken on Apr 30, 2011. The trees are situated inside Dodda Hunase Mata. The monastery people have fenced the garden and planted boards showing the trees' dimensions. 
Tree no.Girth (m)Height (m)
115.715.5
212.9216.4
312.6215.7
Another board has a mythological story about the trees which cannot be verified. I'm guessing these trees could be 400 to 500 years old which means they were planted during XIV or XV Century CE. During that time Sufi ascetics travelled to Africa and back. It is said that the Sufis carried Baobab seeds & saplings, they planted the saplings as they travelled across the Deccan plateau. BTW, Baobabs have extremely long life spans, they can live upto 3000 years. Normally trees grow new branches but Baobabs grow new stems from the base. The new stems encircle the older ones, increasing its girth and continues to live like a new born tree.
Below is a collage of a grown Baobab and a year old sapling.  Its a nice initiative by the Mata to plant a Baobab sapling here but its has been planted barely two feet away from a building. How is it supposed to grow normally.
African people familiar with Baobabs eat its fruit, it is consumed in the raw form or cooked. Baobab fruit is supposed to be very nutritious, especially Vitamin-C. Here, one of the Mata worker told me that Baobab fruit & leaves have medicinal properties. A fully grown fruit has been kept in the mata pooja room. People here call it Dodda Hunase meaning "big tamarind." Hence the monastery's name. 
2. Ogapur, Vijayapura, Vijayapura district: I could locate the second Baobab (in Karnataka) on July 3, 2016 during our tour of Vijayapura. Again this discovery happened by chance. I had heard about the Baobab near Ibrahim Roza. The ticket collector at the monument told me that the Baobab had died couple years back. I guessed densely packed buildings around the tree must have suffocated it. Sad. Then the collector told us about the Baobab at Ogapur on the opposite side of Vijayapura city, off Vijayapura-Kalburgi highway, situated next to a Dargah. We could locate the Dargah and the tree easily. As you see its an umbrella shaped Baobab, very different from the Savanut Baobabs. Leaves are same.
A local man told us that these leaves and fruits have medicinal properties, He urged us to chew a leaf which I did. It tasted mildly sweet, I can't remember anything sticky or gooey. It felt as though I had had a green leafy vegetable. Also our friend mentioned that this tree was planted by Sufi ascetics. One thing I missed asking is what they called this tree. The tree at Golconda is called Hathiyan because its stem resembles elephant legs.
Here we were lucky to see Baobab buds and flowers. As I took pictures, a bee hovered and landed on the yellow core which I guess is the pollen mat. That bee must've brough pollen from other flowers and when it leaves it would carry pollen from this flower. Then on the left is a bud and fully developed flower. On the right are flowers in their final stages. Probably one or two of these dry flowers might have become fruits.
3. Mahalakshmi Gudi, Martur, Kalburgi district: On February 24th 2021 a comment on  comment on Martur fort and Mithakshara inscription  post gave the news that there was a Baobab at Martur itself. I had visited Martur in Nov 2013, spent one or two hours at the village but I missed the Baobab. The comment was posted by Amit Kumar. He also said that he knew how to make saplings from Baobab seeds. That sounded very interesting. Amit had left his mobile number, I contacted him and spoke about Martur Baobab and his collection of rare plants. He shared some details about germinating Baobab seeds and how to take care of the baby plants. Amit shared pictures and I dedicated a post to Martur Baobab. Thanks to Amit for the beautiful picture of Baobab fruit on the tree.
These four little plants are Baobab saplings which Amit produced. I hope the Baobabs have grown up into healthy young trees.
4. Lalbagh Botanical Garden, Bengaluru: As a school going kid I had spent countless number of hours at Lalbagh. Though I liked greenery, I never really showed deep interest... like looking for rare trees or learning their names and stuff like that. My interest remained a bud until I was 30+ which started blooming in late 2000s. My frequent visits to the botanical garden in Karnataka University, Dharwad introduced me to another rare tree which happens to be Krishna Ficus or Krishna's Buttercup. Thanks to Dr. Umesh Laddi for the clue. This tree with cup-shaped leaves is a divine connection between our legends and botany. Much before Baobab research, Krishna Ficus research had commenced.
During my visits to Bangalore in 2010s, I made it a point to spend one or two mornings at Lalbagh. At times I initiated meetups with school friends for a walk & breakfast. During one such meetup with primary school friends, I discovered the Krishna Ficus trees of Lalbagh - which was a complete surprise. That's the day I wondered if there was a Baobab as well. Someone far away read my thought and posted a comment on the Gigantic Silk-Cotton Trees of Lalbagh in Feb 2019 which said "There is a Baobab tree in Lalbagh near the fish tank building." With this lead I tried to locate the Baobab but the attempt was a failure. The elusive Baobab was located by my high-school friend Anil Prasad on October 29, 2022. Anil shared a few pictures while he was at the site.
Of all the Baobabs seen until now, Lalbagh Baobab is the smallest in terms of height. As you see there are three stems which grow into each other and become one large stem. 

A board planted next to the Baobab gives a few basic facts. Below are the transcripts of the board in Kannada and English.
ಆನೆ ಹುಣಸೆ 
ಸಾಮಾನ್ಯ ಹೆಸರು: ಆನೆ ಹುಣಸೆ ಬೇಯೋಬಾಬ್ 
ಸಸ್ಯ ಶಾಸ್ತ್ರೀಯ ಹೆಸರು: ಅಡನ್ ಸೋನಿಯಾ ಡಿಜಿಟಾಟ
ಸಸ್ಯ ಸಾಂಕ್ರಿಯ ಕುಟುಂಬ: ಬಾಂಬಕೆಸಿ 
ಮೂಲ: ಆಫ್ರಿಕಾ ದೇಶ 
ಈ ಮರವು ಪ್ರಪಂಚದಲ್ಲೇ ಬಹಳ ಬೃಹದಾಕಾರವಾಗಿ ಬೆಳೆಯುವ ಮರ. ಈ ಮರವು ೨೦೦೦ ವರ್ಷಗಳೂ ಮಿಗಿಲಾಗಿ ಜೀವಿಸುವ ಚೈತನ್ಯವುಳ್ಳ ಮರವಾಗಿರುತ್ತದೆ. ಇದರ ಕಾಂಡವು ಉಬ್ಬು ತಗ್ಗುಗಳಿಂದ ಕೂಡಿದ್ದು. ಬಾಟಲಿನ ಆಕಾರದಲ್ಲಿರುವ ಕಾಂಡವು ಬಹಳ ದಪ್ಪವಾಗಿದ್ದು ತುದಿಯಲ್ಲಿ ಮೊನಚಾಗಿ ನಂತರ ಕವಲೊಡೆದು ದಪ್ಪ ಕೊಂಬೆಗಳಾಗಿ ಬೆಳೆಯುತ್ತದೆ. ಇದರ ತವರೂರಿನಲ್ಲಿ ಹಳೆಯ ಮರಗಳ ಕಾಂಡಗಳು ಟೊಳ್ಳಾಗಿ ಸುಮಾರು ೧೨೫೦ ಲೀಟರ್ ನಷ್ಟು ಮಳೆಯ ನೀರನ್ನು ಸಂಗ್ರಹಿಸುವ ಸಾಮರ್ಥ್ಯವಿರುತ್ತದೆ. ಭೀಕರ ಬರಗಾಲದಲ್ಲಿ ಈ ನೀರನ್ನು ಜನರು ಕುಡಿಯಲು ಉಪಯೋಗಿಸುತ್ತಿದ್ದರು ಎಂದು ಉಲ್ಲೇಖಿಸಲಾಗಿದೆ. ಇದು ಒಂದು ಅಲಂಕಾರಿಕ ಮರವಾಗಿದ್ದು ಇದನ್ನು ದೊಡ್ಡ ಉದ್ಯಾನವನಗಳಲ್ಲಿ ಬೆಳೆಸುತ್ತಾರೆ. ಇದರ ಕಾಯಿಗಳು ಹಗುರವಾಗಿದ್ದು ಮೀನು ಹಿಡಿಯುವ ಬಳೆಗಳಿಗೆ ಉಪಯೋಗಿಸುತ್ತಾರೆ.
Baobab tree
Common name: Baobab Tree, Monkey Bread Tree
Botanical Name: Adansonia digitata
Family: Bombaceceae
Origin: Tropical Africa
It is a curious looking giant tree, thought to live more than 2000 years with a swollen bottle shaped trunk suddenly tapering upwards and dividing into a number of large branches. In its native country, the trunk of older trees get hollowed to such an extent to hold rain water as much as 1250 liters, by tapping which people survive over long drought periods. Leaves deciduous, flowers white and scented with purplish stamens. An ornamental tree planted in parks. Dry fruits are used as floats for fishing nets.
5. Naya Qila, Golconda, Hyderabad: I heard of Golconda Baobab after moving to Hyderabad, a trip tp Golconda had formed. On October 26, 2014 we first visited the hilltop fort and then went to Naya Qila which covers the plains adjoining the hillock. The Baobab is situated inside Naya Qila next to an ancient mosque. The tree is enclosed in a fence, a caretaker guarding it during day time. Local people call this Baobab as Hathiyan or Elephant tree since it's bark resembles elephant hide. Also one of the branches looks like elephant trunk and a part of its trunk looks like elephant legs. This tree's girth is 27.4m. Inside the trunk are two "rooms." To reach the rooms, one has to climb up the trunk and then descend in the hollow. Baobabs store huge amounts of water in its trunk.
A closeup of one of the branches. There are 5-lobed and 7-lobed leaves. This is the part of the stem which looks like elephant legs. Going by the girth, this tree could be 600 years or more. I feel Vijayapura Baobab and Hatiyan are similar in terms of foliage. Form-wise the Baobabs of Savanur, Martur, Lalbagh, Nalgonda & Nanakramguda can be one set, while Vijayapura and Golconda Baobabs is another set.
6. Shivalaya, Balachandruni Guttalu, Nalgonda: Besides Golconda Baobab, research had yielded the locations of Baobabs at Nalgonda, Nanakramguda and  Chengicherla Reserve Forests. On December 24, 2017 we visited Nalgonda. First we saw Chaya Someshwara Devalaya, the temple known for its mysterious shadow behind the deity throughout the day. Then we headed towards the hill path leading upto the Shivalaya next to which the Baobab is situated. Close to this hill is another temple, which is dedicated to Durgadevi and a Dargah at the hilltop. As mentioned in the previous para, Nalgonda Baobab is similar to Savanur Baobabs.
Of all the Baobabs this one is special because it has a passage to its hollow trunk. Unfortunately people here have been insensitive- see how close the constructions are. Then the metallic frame & gate have been nailed into the trunk. Then a coat of paint! I wish people treated this rare tree like how they treat themselves i.e. with care. Inside the hollow is a shrine, an idol of an ascetic is the deity. Of all the Baobabs seen, this is the only one situated on a hill, rest are on plain ground.
7. Near Ranganatha Swamy Devastana, Nanakramguda, Hyderabad: As per online sources this Baobab was situated in a ground adjoining Ranganatha Swamy temple. On January 6, 2018 we went in search of the tree. At the temple we learned that the tree was inside a neighboring construction site. A ground with several trees had been cleared and construction activity was in full swing. Its just luck that the Baobab happened to be at the border - hence it was spared. The site security wasn't willing to let me take pictures, I managed to convince them and took a few pictures quickly before the site manager turned up.
A picture of the same tree by Desi Traveler shot sometime 2017. 
Hoping to see more Baobabs in the coming years. Also, I would like to revisit Savanur to check on the sapling. I would also like to get a few saplings from my friend Amit Kumar and plant them near Dharwad.
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Dec 24, 2022

Scharer Memorial Methodist Central Church, Dhupdal, Gokak

July 23, 2022
We were on a day trip with a short agenda. The primary purpose of the trip was to visit Pushpa's relatives at Yelimunnoli, a village near Hukkeri town. Since we were traveling by car, I decided to add couple of places to the agenda- 1. Arbhavimata and 2. Konnur. The former is a ancient Lingayath monastery. The mortal remains of Raja Mallasarja Desai of Kittur passed away here and his mortal remains were buried here. The latter is a small village known for a Chalukyan shrine, and also remains of prehistoric megalithic tombs. As planned we reached Yelimunnoli around 9 am, stayed with our relatives till noon and then went to Arbhavimata, which is close to Gokak city. Then we headed towards Konnur village via Ghataprabha village. Between Ghataprabha and Konnur is a village called Dhupdal. As we approached Dhupdal, we could see several stone buildings which were surely built in the pre-independence years. Some of the buildings were inhabited while some were abandoned. On the outskirts of Dhupdal I saw a beautiful little church building on the right hand side. I stopped for a few pictures. Since the gates were locked I shot from the road.

I was trying to imagine this place in the 40s, on a Sunday morning. British families walking in this aisle towards the church. A peaceful ambience in this remote location would be something the British loved.

The arch on the gates states that the church was established in 1910. So that makes this a 112 year old church. May be the church building is 90 or 80 years old. This road goes towards Dhupdal, Konnur and then Gokak waterfalls. Gokak waterfalls was a busy place then due to the power generation plant and textile mills. At least one of the mills is still operational.

Not much is known about this church. Had I got a chance to go into the building may I could've known who this person Scharer was. We carry on towards Konnur to see Chikaleshwara Gudi and the megalithic tombs, locally known as Munivasada Guhegalu.

While drafting this post, I remembered a few older articles:
4. Medak Cathedral
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Dec 21, 2022

Search tips for Journeys across Karnataka

A few years ago my brother had mentioned that searching posts in JaK wasn't easy. The blog template used has a few options which requires some familiarity with the layout, and of course patience too is needed. So, I came out with this post about these search options.

1, Blog Search box - On the top-left corner just below the URL bar is the simple search box. Type your keyword or key-phrase in the box and click the lens icon. Posts containing the word or phrase are shown in the results. This feature is available only while viewing the blog in web version and not in mobile version.

2. Search by labels - Every blog post has one or more label(s) at the end of the post. These labels are like categories. For example; this screenshot shows 3 labels and they are linked. If you click on Baobab, then all posts labelled Baobab will be displayed. Same works for other labels as well.


3. Labelled posts - This section shows a few labels for quick reference. Except for two labels, all are Indian state names. If you click Himachal Pradesh, then you get to see all posts having that label.

4. Blog archive -  can be seen on the right hand side. This image below is a collage of series of images. In the home page view you see the completely collapsed view, only the years (number of posts) is displayed. If you click on any of the year, the view expands showing months of that year. For example; here you see December 2022. If you click December, the view expands further showing the post names in that month. Like wise other years and months. Of course this a manual search. Search box, labels, labelled posts and archive features are available only while viewing the blog in web version, and not available in mobile version.

5.  Internal links - Most articles have hyperlinked words or phrases. When you click on such text, you are taken to a related blog post. For example; in a post listing Baobab sites in India, the place name is linked to a separate post on that site.
6. Google search - This is an external way of searching within JaK. In Google use site search. For example; if you search site:karnatakatravel.blogspot.com ficus, the result will include all posts with the word ficus.

Hope this post helps.
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Dec 17, 2022

What to see in Dambal

Dambal is a little village close to Gadag and Lakkundi. With a fort, a large water tank, two Chalukyan temples, a stepped well of Chalukyan times, a Lingayath monastery established in XV Century, and several smaller historical shrines, Dambal was a place of importance during Chalukyan rule i.e. between X and XII centuries. Also, it is said to be a Buddhist center during Maurya and Satavahana's time based on relics discovered in and around Dambal. In the XIX century, British government under Queen Victoria renovated Dambal lake to increase its capacity. Since then the lake was called Victoria Lake. Water from Dambal lake is supplied for domestic usage and also to irrigate farmlands.

When you plan a visit to Lakkundi, it would be good idea to add Dambal to the agenda. One may need about two hours to cover the historical spots listed below.

Doddabasappa Devastana - This is a Chalukyan temple built in the XII Century. This east-facing temple is dedicated to Shivalinga, it's doorframes, pillars, walls and Shikhara a very ornate. The star attraction here is a lifesize idol of Nandi. The texture of Nandi idol is unique, gives it a realistic look. Also there's an inscribed slab of XII Century. Morning rituals are performed by a poojari from Dambal, one could see the deity between 7-30 and 8-30 am. Doddabasappa temple is situated on the outskirts of Dambal. Travelers coming from Gadag side see Doddabasappa and Someshwara temples as they approach Dambal.


Someshwara Devastana - This temple was built by the Chalukyans sometime XI or XII Century. This east facing temple too dedicated to Shivalinga. A pillared hall and sloping canopies are marks of this temple. Compared to Doddabasappa, Someshwara is less ornate. The exterior is quite plain while the interior pillars and doorframe are ornate. The three entrances of Someshwara have paired balustrades. Apparently rituals do not happen on this temple.


Japada Baavi - The XI or XII Century stepped well too is east facing and a Chalukyan creation. This truly is an architectural marvel. Within the walls of the well are a dozen or so mini shrines. The purpose of this well is to let people take bath and perform rituals while dripping wet. The person can start rituals immediately after bath i.e. one need not take chances of coming in contact with physical impurity trying to reach a shrine. This well is situated on the village outskirts, on the road to Dambal lake, less than a kilometer from Doddabasappa. 


Shivalaya near Japada Bavi - This temple is within eyesight of Japada Baavi. The temple is most likely built in the XI or XII Century. This too is east-facing, has two entrances and one sanctum. 


Dambal lake & Ruins of Dambal fort - Approximately a kilometer from Doddabasappa is the lake and ruins of the fort. The fort is roughly oval shaped, has several bastions and a moat. Part of the moat remains neglected and parts of it has been converted into agricultural plots. Space inside the fort too is mostly farm plots. The lake can be seen by climbing on to the bund.


Kote Ganesha Gudi - This is an ancient shrine with an ancient deity idol however the temple is a simple structure, nothing remarkable about it. This temple is close to the fort entrance hence it is called Kote Ganesha.

Tontadarya Siddalingeshwar Math - This is a Lingayath Mata established in the XV Century CE by Yediyuru Sidalingeshwara. Besides preaching the teachings of Jagatjyori Basaveshwara, the Mata also runs educational institutions. Within the premises of this Mata is a small temple with ornate pillars.

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Dec 10, 2022

Baobab tree of Lalbagh, Bengaluru

People are attracted to Lalbagh for different reasons... for fresh air & silence, for a brisk walk or a energizing run, to see greenery & winged creatures, private moment with a special one, to look for rare plants or to simply look at the gigantic forms of trees like silk cotton. Quite often I'd come to Lalbagh just to enjoy the silence and to see the towering silk-cotton trees. One of the silk cottons is not so towering, rather it is spread out like an octopus. Even that is an amazing sight. Of the rare trees, Krishna Ficus is one variety one gets to see here. I discovered the Krishna Ficus of Lalbagh in December 2014 during a meetup with primary school friends. That's the time I wondered if there was a baobab as well. In February 2019, a comment was posted on Gigantic Silk-Cotton Trees of Lalbagh which said "There is a Baobab tree in Lalbagh near the fish tank building." Following this comment, I visited Lalbagh to look for the baobab but I simply couldn't locate it. It was very disappointing and I never made another attempt to look for it and gave up on it.

October 29, 2022. A message posted by a high-school days' friend Anil Prasad in Whatsapp was a pleasant surprise. He had located the baobab of Lalbagh. I'm not sure if it was an accidental discovery or an intentional one, but the elusive tree had been found. Superb news. I had a phone call with Anil while he was still at Lalbagh, asked for more pictures of the tree which were promptly sent to me. So here's the rare tree.. the three stemmed Baobab of Lalbagh.
It looks like three trees but it is actually one. It seems the plant grew branches close to the ground which competed with the stem to the extent they look like triplets now. Going along with my theory, the limb on the right is the stem and the 'stems' emerging up from the main stem are branches. Below is a diagonal view of the tree.
Its a good thing that horticulture department has labelled many trees in Lalbagh and Cubbon Park too. Surely students and people interested in plant life will find the information handy. The bark of this baobab is similar to the baobabs seen at Savanur, Bijapur, Hyderabad and Nalagonda.

Besides the smaller labels, horticulture department has also planted a board stating a few basic facts of baobabs. Below are the transcripts of the board in Kannada and English.

ಆನೆ ಹುಣಸೆ 
ಸಾಮಾನ್ಯ ಹೆಸರು: ಆನೆ ಹುಣಸೆ ಬೇಯೋಬಾಬ್ 
ಸಸ್ಯ ಶಾಸ್ತ್ರೀಯ ಹೆಸರು: ಅಡನ್ ಸೋನಿಯಾ ಡಿಜಿಟಾಟ
ಸಸ್ಯ ಸಾಂಕ್ರಿಯ ಕುಟುಂಬ: ಬಾಂಬಕೆಸಿ 
ಮೂಲ: ಆಫ್ರಿಕಾ ದೇಶ 
ಈ ಮರವು ಪ್ರಪಂಚದಲ್ಲೇ ಬಹಳ ಬೃಹದಾಕಾರವಾಗಿ ಬೆಳೆಯುವ ಮರ. ಈ ಮರವು ೨೦೦೦ ವರ್ಷಗಳೂ ಮಿಗಿಲಾಗಿ ಜೀವಿಸುವ ಚೈತನ್ಯವುಳ್ಳ ಮರವಾಗಿರುತ್ತದೆ. ಇದರ ಕಾಂಡವು ಉಬ್ಬು ತಗ್ಗುಗಳಿಂದ ಕೂಡಿದ್ದು. ಬಾಟಲಿನ ಆಕಾರದಲ್ಲಿರುವ ಕಾಂಡವು ಬಹಳ ದಪ್ಪವಾಗಿದ್ದು ತುದಿಯಲ್ಲಿ ಮೊನಚಾಗಿ ನಂತರ ಕವಲೊಡೆದು ದಪ್ಪ ಕೊಂಬೆಗಳಾಗಿ ಬೆಳೆಯುತ್ತದೆ. ಇದರ ತವರೂರಿನಲ್ಲಿ ಹಳೆಯ ಮರಗಳ ಕಾಂಡಗಳು ಟೊಳ್ಳಾಗಿ ಸುಮಾರು ೧೨೫೦ ಲೀಟರ್ ನಷ್ಟು ಮಳೆಯ ನೀರನ್ನು ಸಂಗ್ರಹಿಸುವ ಸಾಮರ್ಥ್ಯವಿರುತ್ತದೆ. ಭೀಕರ ಬರಗಾಲದಲ್ಲಿ ಈ ನೀರನ್ನು ಜನರು ಕುಡಿಯಲು ಉಪಯೋಗಿಸುತ್ತಿದ್ದರು ಎಂದು ಉಲ್ಲೇಖಿಸಲಾಗಿದೆ. ಇದು ಒಂದು ಅಲಂಕಾರಿಕ ಮರವಾಗಿದ್ದು ಇದನ್ನು ದೊಡ್ಡ ಉದ್ಯಾನವನಗಳಲ್ಲಿ ಬೆಳೆಸುತ್ತಾರೆ. ಇದರ ಕಾಯಿಗಳು ಹಗುರವಾಗಿದ್ದು ಮೀನು ಹಿಡಿಯುವ ಬಳೆಗಳಿಗೆ ಉಪಯೋಗಿಸುತ್ತಾರೆ.

Baobab tree
Common name: Baobab Tree, Monkey Bread Tree
Botanical Name: Adansonia digitata
Family: Bombaceceae
Origin: Tropical Africa
It is a curious looking giant tree, thought to live more than 2000 years with a swollen bottle shaped trunk suddenly tapering upwards and dividing into a number of large branches. In its native country, the trunk of older trees get hollowed to such an extent to hold rain water as much as 1250 liters, by tapping which people survive over long drought periods. Leaves deciduous, flowers white and scented with purplish stamens. An ornamental tree planted in parks. Dry fruits are used as floats for fishing nets.

The Baobab inside Golconda fort is locally called as Hathiyan, meaning elephant tree. The texture of the bark does resemble elephant skin. The color and folds of elephant hide can be seen on Baobabs.

Lets take a look at the leaves. For a huge tree, the leaves are small. The leaves of this baobab definitely resembles the leaves of other baobabs.... color, shape, size, etc.

Coming to the base of the trunk, a warty texture is a feature in most baobabs.

With this picture one should be able to locate the tree at site. This is near the aquarium buildings, situated between the clock and band stand. This spot is equidistant from West gate and Main gate.

For the reader's benefit, I'm posting a list of known Baobab trees of India-
  1. Hilltop Nightclub, Vagator, Goa
  2. Cabo Raj Bhavan, Dona Paula, Goa
  3. Quepem, Goa
  4. Bamboo Motels, Goa
  5. Mahalakshmi Gudi premises, Martur
  6. near Ibrahim Roza, Bijapur, Karnataka (this tree died a few years ago)
  7. near the tombs of Yogapur, Vijayapura
  8. Dodda Hunashe Matha, Savanur, Karnataka
  9. Attapur, Hyderabad
  10. Purana Qilla, Golconda Fort, Hyderabad, Telangana
  11. Vansthalipuram, Hyderabad, Telangana
  12. near Chappel Road, Hyderabad, Telangana
  13. Ranganath temple at Nanakramguda Hyderabad, Telangana
  14. Uppal in Chengicherla Reserve Forests, Hyderabad, Telangana
  15. Shivalaya on Balachandruni Guttalu, Nalagonda, Telangana
  16. Nellore, Andhrapradesh
  17. Theosophist Society Gardens, Chennai, Tamil Nadu
  18. The American College campus, Madurai, Tamil Nadu
  19. Chinmaya Vidyalaya's campus, Ilanthope, Rajapalayam, Tamil Nadu
  20. Mangaliawas near Ajmer, Rajasthan
  21. Vadodara, Gujarat
  22. Dayapur, Gujarat
  23. Kutch, Gujarat
  24. Bhanagar, Gujarat
  25. Baroda, Gujarat
  26. Victoria Garden, Ahmedabad, Gujarat
  27. Mulund, Mumbai, Maharashtra
  28. Byculla zoo, Mumbai, Maharashtra
  29. Outside the Vasai fort, Maharashtra
  30. Tilak road and Ghole road, Pune, Maharastra
  31. near Aurangabad, Maharashtra
  32. Mandavgad or Mandu, Madhya Pradesh
  33. near Sangam, left bank of the Ganga, Prayag, Uttar Pradesh 
  34. Sanjay Gandhi Biological Park, Bihar
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Dec 3, 2022

Megalithic burial chambers of Konnur

The prehistoric site of Konnur was on my list of items for a few years. My efforts to locate it on Google Maps went in vain. The only way to locate it was to inquire with at Konnur. Quite often remotely situated prehistoric monuments are lost mainly due to human interference. So I wasn't sure if I'll be able to locate it all.

September 23, 2022
We arrived at Konnur around 2 PM. There were two items to see here- 1. a Chalukyan temple named Chikaleshwara Gudi and 2. Prehistoric megalithic tombs. We drove through the narrow streets of Konnur asking directions to the temple and parked our car at a junction. As we were inquiring about the temple, a shopkeeper noticed the temple caretaker and hailed him. The caretaker was friendly, he and his son lead me to Chikaleshwara Gudi. After a quick tour of the temple I inquired about the dolmen. Apparently the megalithic tombs are called as Munivasada Guhegalu (caves used by ascetics) or Shantisagar Gufa. The caretaker, Shankar Jiddimani, appointed his son Shivu to take us to the site. The site is situated a couple kilometers from the village. Shivu was familiar with the locale and we reached the site in a few minutes. The site is protected with a fencing wall around it, and has just one entry point. The caretaker of this site, Ravi welcomed us with a respectful smile. The site is L-shaped, the megalithic tombs are situated at the far end, rest of the area is just open ground with a few trees. Within this enclosure are tombs of Jain Munis as well. The little stone shelter in front of the five mantapas is one of the tombs.
I was so happy to be here, looking at another group of megalithic tombs. These are as rough as they can get, like the ones at Aihole, Rajan Kollur, Kutkankeri, and other remote locations. This rough little structure, despite its primitive form, has an artistic look. The sloping faces of the side slabs defines its stylish looks. The inside is dim, the floor is dirt. According to Ravi, the inside is a pit filled with dirt washed in by rainwater. The rocks buried around the tomb may not be there naturally, they have been fixed in a circle around the tomb. This is the first time I'm seeing a stone circle around a megalithic tomb although it is a feature of prehistoric tombs. Lets call this tomb #1.

Moving on to another tomb, let us call this tomb #2. Compared to tomb #1, tomb #2 slightly bigger. There are other differences as well. Their orientation; tomb one facing east and this tomb below is facing south. Also this tomb vertically fixed slab in the front. I think originally it was a pair of vertical slabs, now one of them is missing. Then there is a U-shaped extension to its right. Ravi said that during the recent rains, flowing rainwater deposited dirt in the tomb's chamber. Else we would've seen a square pit inside.

This is the rear view of the tomb. Going by its size, this could have been a tomb of a small child i.e. assuming the body was buried. However, it is possible that bodies were cremated and ashes buried in a tomb, in which case the size of the tomb doesn't matter.

Next to the western edge of the enclosure is this particular tomb. The slabs are granite, also it is larger and construction is slightly different.

The next one is a much larger one. Also it has a large chamber inside, large enough for an adult man to sit inside it. I think the stones piled up next it originally formed a circle around the tomb.

Konnur megalithic site details are available in ASI Dharwad Circle website. I'm quoting the description as it is: At Konnur, near the Gokak Falls, are extensive group of dolmens scattered in the fields. Like those of Aihole over the hill, these have also been enclosed with slabs but unlike them, they all face the south. The sherds of pottery and ash have been found. An interesting architectural element is, in front of their southern entrances, are set up two flat slabs on edge leaving a narrow lane of approach between them. The cells vary in size, but average about four feet square inside, and are proportionately high. Locally these tombs are called as Pandava houses while the Jaina call them as Munivasada Guhegalu.

This particular tomb is the largest of all in this enclosure. However it has been modified in the process of reconditioning it. The slabs forming the lane seem to be in original positions. The chamber inside(see inset) is much larger compared to the previous tomb. An adult of average height could easily step into the pit and sit comfortably.

Since this site has a Jaina connection, this tomb might have been used by Jaina ascetics to do Dhyana in isolation. Ascetics are known to vow silence & fasting for a certain period, so during that period they keep bare minimum contact with others. People serving the ascetics normally bring water, milk and fruits once a day, place them at the entrance and retreat. The stone masonry wall seen on the right is a recently built structure. Ravi said there's a tomb inside it.

This is the inside of the building . The little doorway on the right is the passage to an underground chamber. The chamber is large enough to accommodate 2 or 3 adults. The walls of the chamber are rough-cut slabs like the ones seen earlier. What I feel is this place was (may be still is) for performing Sallekana. Its a vow taken by certain Jaina ascetics who fast until death. Its my guess this room served that purpose. That's just a guess, my guides didn't mention that, they just said that Jain Munis lived here. This little fellow is Ravi's son Basu. A silent, energetic and active kid.

We had seen all the tombs in the enclosure. Ravi mentioned about a few more tombs behind a farmhouse opposite the enclosure entrance. The farmhouse and the adjoining farmland were owned by a Gowda, a village headman. Ravi said its okay to take a look. There were three tombs of which one was large and in good condition. In fact this is the largest seen here. The parallel slabs are akin to outstretched arms, as though the tomb is beckoning those looking at it. This tomb was 4 to 5 feet tall. A person of average height could easily pass through the doorway. Despite the crudeness of the structure, its has a certain quality, sturdy, stable and unshakable.

Fifteen-twenty feet away is another tomb, approximately the same size. This is where it flashed to me that all tombs were facing south except tomb #1.

That's the farmhouse and my guides- Ravi and Shivu. Ravi is pointing towards the sugarcane plantation on the other side of this house where there are a few more tombs, rather ruins of tombs.

This plot was recently tilled by a tractor, walking through this uneven land requires twice the effort. Like I said before these are ruins of what were beautiful structures. There's little doubt that human hands were behind the mutilation. Probably a few years later the ruins would go missing.

This must have been a really big one. The capstone and rear slab are missing. On its front (the other side) is one of the partially buried slabs.

Within the same tilled plot is another set of three tombs, again all have been disturbed, several parts of the tombs are missing.

Of the three, this is the best preserved one. If we assume this as the original form, then this design is different compared to other tombs here.

With that tomb, we were almost done with this site for the day. Time for a group photo. As an exception, I joined the group, all because of our little friend Basu. See how he's holding a corn cob in his little hand, probably that's his lunch or afternoon snack.

Basu and I with the last tomb of the day. When I lifted Basu, I hardly felt this mass, feather light guy.

We thanked our friends for showing us the tombs patiently. We said bye to Ravi & Basu. As we drove towards Konnur - Gokak waterfall road, Shivu pointed towards another tomb in a sugarcane field. That tombs has been converted into a Devi shrine. That shrine is visited by people and rituals are performed regularly. We decided to skip that tomb, may be next time. We dropped off Shivu at the main road and headed towards Dharwad via Gokak waterfall. As I was thinking about these tombs, I felt the tomb building technology gradually evolved into temple building technology. What do you think.
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