Showing posts with label Bijapur district. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bijapur district. Show all posts

May 2, 2026

Rickshaw Run Autos

This is a 9yo memory of seeing two gaily painted autorickshaws at Sabala Heritage Home, Vijayapura on Aug 18th 2017. Pushpa and I were traveling from Dharwad to Hyderabad, on the way we had stopped to see two historical monuments of Vijayapura. We had entered the historical city from the southern side and stopped to see the huge cannon named Landa Kasab Tope. Then we headed to the northern edge of the town to see the canon on Aldi Buruj. Unfortunately the tower was not tourist friendly, there was no way to climb the tower without the help of ladders. Also it was almost dusk, darkness was setting in. I moved up to a slightly elevated ground and got a glimpse of the canon which is quite long. We were tired and just wanted to find a lodge for the night. I guess we found a place just outside the city limits, a lodge situated inside a farm called Sabala Heritage Home.

We liked the heritage home's ambiance instantly. The hosts, lady owner and her colleagues, were friendly. Our first floor rooms had a view of neighboring fields, the only sounds we heard were insects. We had had lemon-grass tea and freshened up. The dining was on the ground floor. Menu was jolada rotti oota which included salad and sweets. Food prepared by village ladies was home food, no other word or phrase to describe it. There were a few other guests and their presence was hardly felt. We hit the sack early and woke up early to start the journey towards Hyderabad.

We chatted with the owner and found that she had good knowledge about plants. She grew vegetables, fruits, herbs, flowers and other crops. One of the herbs was a five in one spice. When we sniffed at the crushed leaf we got aromas of clove, pepper, cinnamon.. can't remember the other two. After the pleasant chat we said our byes and headed to the parking area where found two gaily painted autorickshaws. A group of young western foreigners were on a tour of India. Journeys would be slow but they weren't in a hurry, I guess.



On this flaming rickshaw was poster with website address rickshawrun.com which redirected to The Adventurist. Until now I never knew that touring in rickshaws was a craze among western tourists, particularly in Rajasthan. Do check out the website, it's big phenomena at another level.

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Feb 4, 2026

Buddies at Basavana Bagewadi

While researching for the blog post Shivasharanara Aikysthalagala Nakshe I had to delve into my photo archive and landed on this photo of Jan 29 2016 shot at Basavana Bagewadi. Pushpa and I were at Basaveshwara Devalaya, I think that's where we met these two boys. Can't remember if they asked to be photographed or I volunteered. Now seeing this photo I feel a strong friendship existed between these two. I can't recall their names, can't remember what we spoke. Hoping their friendship has become stronger and they are doing well.

The boy on the left seem to be protective of his friend, right?

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Dec 31, 2022

Baobab trees in Karnataka and Telangana

The first time I saw a Baobab tree was on a cinema screen, think it was "Gods must be crazy." Mostly shot in an African country, the cinema was a peep into the wilderness of the dark continent. Like many people I was fascinated by the unique looking tree. With huge bottle shaped trunks and spindly branches sticking out some of them looked like badly made scarecrows. As I remember there weren't many leaves. Probably the scenes were shot when Baobabs had shed leaves. Despite their odd looks, they were beautiful and ever interesting. With the available information back then, for me Baobabs existed only in Africa, I had no clue they existed in our country. The first time I saw a Baobab for real was at Savanur. It was a freak discovery. The purpose of my visit to Savanur was to see the remains of a fort. While inquiring about the scattered ruins, a local man told us to check out the huge trees of Dodda Hunase Mata, the word Baobab was never mentioned. When we reached the Mata, it was a pleasant surprise, happy to be seeing a rare tree.

Savanur Baobabs ignited the research of Baobabs in our country. Online search revealed Baobab sites mostly on the western side and a few deep inside. Apparently there (were) thousands in Gujarat and Maharashtra however the information needs verification. For the southern states, Baobab is a rare tree, the number in all four states can be counted in one or two hands. between 2011 and 2018 got to see 5 of 7 Baobab sites mentioned here. The remaining 2 were visited by my friends and I got to see those Baobabs through their eyes and cameras.

Below are pictures of the Baobabs of the 5 sites I have visited and 2 sites visited by my friends. Going by the forms & sizes of these trees, I feel the climatic & soil conditions have had a major role in the trees' development.

1. Dodda-Hunase Mata, Savanur: Pictures of Savanur Baobabs were taken on Apr 30, 2011. The trees are situated inside Dodda Hunase Mata. The monastery people have fenced the garden and planted boards showing the trees' dimensions. 

Tree no.Girth (m)Height (m)
115.715.5
212.9216.4
312.6215.7

Another board has a mythological story about the trees which cannot be verified. I'm guessing these trees could be 400 to 500 years old which means they were planted during XIV or XV Century CE. During that time Sufi ascetics travelled to Africa and back. It is said that the Sufis carried Baobab seeds & saplings, they planted the saplings as they travelled across the Deccan plateau. BTW, Baobabs have extremely long life spans, they can live upto 3000 years. Normally trees grow new branches but Baobabs grow new stems from the base. The new stems encircle the older ones, increasing its girth and continues to live like a new born tree.

Below is a collage of a grown Baobab and a year old sapling.  Its a nice initiative by the Mata to plant a Baobab sapling here but its has been planted barely two feet away from a building. How is it supposed to grow normally.

African people familiar with Baobabs eat its fruit, it is consumed in the raw form or cooked. Baobab fruit is supposed to be very nutritious, especially Vitamin-C. Here, one of the Mata worker told me that Baobab fruit & leaves have medicinal properties. A fully grown fruit has been kept in the mata pooja room. People here call it Dodda Hunase meaning "big tamarind." Hence the monastery's name. 

2. Yogapur, Vijayapura, Vijayapura district: I could locate the second Baobab (in Karnataka) on July 3, 2016 during our tour of Vijayapura. Again this discovery happened by chance. I had heard about the Baobab near Ibrahim Roza. The ticket collector at the monument told me that the Baobab had died couple years back. I guessed densely packed buildings around the tree must have suffocated it. Sad. Then the collector told us about the Baobab at Ogapur on the opposite side of Vijayapura city, off Vijayapura-Kalburgi highway, situated next to a Dargah. We could locate the Dargah and the tree easily. As you see its an umbrella shaped Baobab, very different from the Savanut Baobabs. Leaves are same.

A local man told us that these leaves and fruits have medicinal properties, He urged us to chew a leaf which I did. It tasted mildly sweet, I can't remember anything sticky or gooey. It felt as though I had had a green leafy vegetable. Also our friend mentioned that this tree was planted by Sufi ascetics. One thing I missed asking is what they called this tree. The tree at Golconda is called Hathiyan because its stem resembles elephant legs.

Here we were lucky to see Baobab buds and flowers. As I took pictures, a bee hovered and landed on the yellow core which I guess is the pollen mat. That bee must've brough pollen from other flowers and when it leaves it would carry pollen from this flower. Then on the left is a bud and fully developed flower. On the right are flowers in their final stages. Probably one or two of these dry flowers might have become fruits.

3. Mahalakshmi Gudi, Martur, Kalburgi district: On February 24th 2021 a comment on  comment on Martur fort and Mithakshara inscription  post gave the news that there was a Baobab at Martur itself. I had visited Martur in Nov 2013, spent one or two hours at the village but I missed the Baobab. The comment was posted by Amit Kumar. He also said that he knew how to make saplings from Baobab seeds. That sounded very interesting. Amit had left his mobile number, I contacted him and spoke about Martur Baobab and his collection of rare plants. He shared some details about germinating Baobab seeds and how to take care of the baby plants. Amit shared pictures and I dedicated a post to Martur Baobab. Thanks to Amit for the beautiful picture of Baobab fruit on the tree.

These four little plants are Baobab saplings which Amit produced. I hope the Baobabs have grown up into healthy young trees.

4. Lalbagh Botanical Garden, Bengaluru: As a school going kid I had spent countless number of hours at Lalbagh. Though I liked greenery, I never really showed deep interest... like looking for rare trees or learning their names and stuff like that. My interest remained a bud until I was 30+ which started blooming in late 2000s. My frequent visits to the botanical garden in Karnataka University, Dharwad introduced me to another rare tree which happens to be Krishna Ficus or Krishna's Buttercup. Thanks to Dr. Umesh Laddi for the clue. This tree with cup-shaped leaves is a divine connection between our legends and botany. Much before Baobab research, Krishna Ficus research had commenced.

During my visits to Bangalore in 2010s, I made it a point to spend one or two mornings at Lalbagh. At times I initiated meetups with school friends for a walk & breakfast. During one such meetup with primary school friends, I discovered the Krishna Ficus trees of Lalbagh - which was a complete surprise. That's the day I wondered if there was a Baobab as well. Someone far away read my thought and posted a comment on the Gigantic Silk-Cotton Trees of Lalbagh in Feb 2019 which said "There is a Baobab tree in Lalbagh near the fish tank building." With this lead I tried to locate the Baobab but the attempt was a failure. The elusive Baobab was located by my high-school friend Anil Prasad on October 29, 2022. Anil shared a few pictures while he was at the site.

Of all the Baobabs seen until now, Lalbagh Baobab is the smallest in terms of height. As you see there are three stems which grow into each other and become one large stem. 

A board planted next to the Baobab gives a few basic facts. Below are the transcripts of the board in Kannada and English.

ಆನೆ ಹುಣಸೆ 
ಸಾಮಾನ್ಯ ಹೆಸರು: ಆನೆ ಹುಣಸೆ ಬೇಯೋಬಾಬ್ 
ಸಸ್ಯ ಶಾಸ್ತ್ರೀಯ ಹೆಸರು: ಅಡನ್ ಸೋನಿಯಾ ಡಿಜಿಟಾಟ
ಸಸ್ಯ ಸಾಂಕ್ರಿಯ ಕುಟುಂಬ: ಬಾಂಬಕೆಸಿ 
ಮೂಲ: ಆಫ್ರಿಕಾ ದೇಶ 
ಈ ಮರವು ಪ್ರಪಂಚದಲ್ಲೇ ಬಹಳ ಬೃಹದಾಕಾರವಾಗಿ ಬೆಳೆಯುವ ಮರ. ಈ ಮರವು ೨೦೦೦ ವರ್ಷಗಳೂ ಮಿಗಿಲಾಗಿ ಜೀವಿಸುವ ಚೈತನ್ಯವುಳ್ಳ ಮರವಾಗಿರುತ್ತದೆ. ಇದರ ಕಾಂಡವು ಉಬ್ಬು ತಗ್ಗುಗಳಿಂದ ಕೂಡಿದ್ದು. ಬಾಟಲಿನ ಆಕಾರದಲ್ಲಿರುವ ಕಾಂಡವು ಬಹಳ ದಪ್ಪವಾಗಿದ್ದು ತುದಿಯಲ್ಲಿ ಮೊನಚಾಗಿ ನಂತರ ಕವಲೊಡೆದು ದಪ್ಪ ಕೊಂಬೆಗಳಾಗಿ ಬೆಳೆಯುತ್ತದೆ. ಇದರ ತವರೂರಿನಲ್ಲಿ ಹಳೆಯ ಮರಗಳ ಕಾಂಡಗಳು ಟೊಳ್ಳಾಗಿ ಸುಮಾರು ೧೨೫೦ ಲೀಟರ್ ನಷ್ಟು ಮಳೆಯ ನೀರನ್ನು ಸಂಗ್ರಹಿಸುವ ಸಾಮರ್ಥ್ಯವಿರುತ್ತದೆ. ಭೀಕರ ಬರಗಾಲದಲ್ಲಿ ಈ ನೀರನ್ನು ಜನರು ಕುಡಿಯಲು ಉಪಯೋಗಿಸುತ್ತಿದ್ದರು ಎಂದು ಉಲ್ಲೇಖಿಸಲಾಗಿದೆ. ಇದು ಒಂದು ಅಲಂಕಾರಿಕ ಮರವಾಗಿದ್ದು ಇದನ್ನು ದೊಡ್ಡ ಉದ್ಯಾನವನಗಳಲ್ಲಿ ಬೆಳೆಸುತ್ತಾರೆ. ಇದರ ಕಾಯಿಗಳು ಹಗುರವಾಗಿದ್ದು ಮೀನು ಹಿಡಿಯುವ ಬಳೆಗಳಿಗೆ ಉಪಯೋಗಿಸುತ್ತಾರೆ.
Baobab tree
Common name: Baobab Tree, Monkey Bread Tree
Botanical Name: Adansonia digitata
Family: Bombaceceae
Origin: Tropical Africa

It is a curious looking giant tree, thought to live more than 2000 years with a swollen bottle shaped trunk suddenly tapering upwards and dividing into a number of large branches. In its native country, the trunk of older trees get hollowed to such an extent to hold rain water as much as 1250 liters, by tapping which people survive over long drought periods. Leaves deciduous, flowers white and scented with purplish stamens. An ornamental tree planted in parks. Dry fruits are used as floats for fishing nets.

5. Naya Qila, Golconda, Hyderabad: I heard of Golconda Baobab after moving to Hyderabad, a trip tp Golconda had formed. On October 26, 2014 we first visited the hilltop fort and then went to Naya Qila which covers the plains adjoining the hillock. The Baobab is situated inside Naya Qila next to an ancient mosque. The tree is enclosed in a fence, a caretaker guarding it during day time. Local people call this Baobab as Hathiyan or Elephant tree since it's bark resembles elephant hide. Also one of the branches looks like elephant trunk and a part of its trunk looks like elephant legs. This tree's girth is 27.4m. Inside the trunk are two "rooms." To reach the rooms, one has to climb up the trunk and then descend in the hollow. Baobabs store huge amounts of water in its trunk.

A closeup of one of the branches. There are 5-lobed and 7-lobed leaves. This is the part of the stem which looks like elephant legs. Going by the girth, this tree could be 600 years or more. I feel Vijayapura Baobab and Hatiyan are similar in terms of foliage. Form-wise the Baobabs of Savanur, Martur, Lalbagh, Nalgonda & Nanakramguda can be one set, while Vijayapura and Golconda Baobabs is another set.

6. Shivalaya, Balachandruni Guttalu, Nalgonda: Besides Golconda Baobab, research had yielded the locations of Baobabs at Nalgonda, Nanakramguda and  Chengicherla Reserve Forests. On December 24, 2017 we visited Nalgonda. First we saw Chaya Someshwara Devalaya, the temple known for its mysterious shadow behind the deity throughout the day. Then we headed towards the hill path leading upto the Shivalaya next to which the Baobab is situated. Close to this hill is another temple, which is dedicated to Durgadevi and a Dargah at the hilltop. As mentioned in the previous para, Nalgonda Baobab is similar to Savanur Baobabs.

Of all the Baobabs this one is special because it has a passage to its hollow trunk. Unfortunately people here have been insensitive- see how close the constructions are. Then the metallic frame & gate have been nailed into the trunk. Then a coat of paint! I wish people treated this rare tree like how they treat themselves i.e. with care. Inside the hollow is a shrine, an idol of an ascetic is the deity. Of all the Baobabs seen, this is the only one situated on a hill, rest are on plain ground.

7. Near Ranganatha Swamy Devastana, Nanakramguda, Hyderabad: As per online sources this Baobab was situated in a ground adjoining Ranganatha Swamy temple. On January 6, 2018 we went in search of the tree. At the temple we learned that the tree was inside a neighboring construction site. A ground with several trees had been cleared and construction activity was in full swing. Its just luck that the Baobab happened to be at the border - hence it was spared. The site security wasn't willing to let me take pictures, I managed to convince them and took a few pictures quickly before the site manager turned up.

A picture of the same tree by Desi Traveler shot sometime 2017. 

Hoping to see more Baobabs in the coming years. Also, I would like to revisit Savanur to check on the sapling. I would also like to get a few saplings from my friend Amit Kumar and plant them near Dharwad.

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Aug 18, 2018

Bara Kaman, Bijapur

February 1996

My friend Gulveer and I were on a biking journey across Karnataka. We traveled on my Hero Honda Splendor. Back then NH4 was a simple 2-lane road and Chitradurga-Hospet road was single lane. Day-1 we visited one ancient temple near Hospet and TB Dam gardens. We camped at KSTDC lodge, near TB Dam, Hospet. Day-2 was spent at Hampi. Day-3 we traveled to Bijapur, reached there late afternoon. Whatever was remaining of that day, we visited Malik-e-Maidan, Upli Burj and Bara Kaman. This is Gulli posing below the arches of Bara Kaman, shot with Yashica aim-n-shoot.

August 18, 2017
Pushpa and I were traveling from Dharwad to Hyderabad, with a stopover at Bijapur. Again we reached late afternoon. This time we visited Landa Kasab Tope and Bara Kaman. This is the entrance gate of the incomplete tomb of Adil Shah II, his wife Chand Bibi and other family members. Had this tomb designed by Malik Sandal was to surpass Gol Gumbaz in size and beauty. It would be so tall that its shadow before sunset would reach Gol Gumbaz which is a good 1.8 kms from here. What a royal wish!

Gol Gumbaz was built by Muhammad Adil Shah as his own tomb. He didn't want another building to shadow the glory of his own tomb and has his son Ali Adil Shah II murdered. With that Bara Kaman's construction stopped for good. Well, that saved an immense burden on the kingdom's subjects which was mostly Hindu. It seems only Muslim kings had this craze to glorify themselves even in their death.

Whatever is the background, one cannot resist being amazed at the engineering skills of those days. The platform is 65m long, 65m wide around 20' thick. These arches are at least 35' high. The columns are approximately 8' x 8' and there are 64 arranged in a 8 x 8 square matrix. Gol Gumaz's overall dimensions are 48m x 48m x 51m.

The arches are designed to transfer the load to the pillars and into the ground below.

 This is the platform center, the resting place for the mortal remains of Ali Adil Shah II and family.

In Islamic tradition, the pointed tops mark a man's grave and flat-hollow tops  for women.

Looks like the plan was to create a central hall for the tombs. The stone used here are dark colored and hard usually found in Bijapur, Gulbarga, Bidar and neighboring districts of Maharashtra.

Not all columns are connected by arches, there are gaps. Looks like they were never built.

The structure's four corners have a tower each. Each of the tower has a builtin staircase. This staircase is enclosed unlike the open staircase of Gol Gumbaz.

One of the towers. Just to raise this structure it must have taken 3 years.

Looking up towards a column and its arches aka Kamans.

Iron rings embedded into the walls. Such rings can be seen all around the structure.

There another incomplete tomb on the eastern side of the city, called as Jahan Begum's tomb. This and In-Ul-Mulk tomb are to be seen during my next visit to Bijapur.

In case you want to know.. what to see in Bijapur district - click this link.

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Dec 6, 2017

view of Almatti waters from Kolhar bridge

August 18, 2017
The road from Dharwad to Bijapur goes across river Krishna, where Almatti reservoir backwaters can be seen submerging village and farm lands. Here are few pictures of coconut trees and fields in water.

The bridge near Kolhar village is named after it. Its one of the longest bridges spanning approximately 3.2 kilometers.

At the edge of the water are standing sugarcane. No worry of watering them ..however there will be challenges during harvest time if the water remains at this level.

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Nov 8, 2017

500 year tamarind tree of Devara Hipparagi

August 19, 2017
Devara Hipparagi is a village east of Bijapur on Bijapur-Jevargi road. On the outskirts of the village is stream, on its bank is Mallayya Devasthana. The temple is quite popular in this region. The temple has 1000+ years history. The temple popular by itself is also known for its tall Deepatambha (also called as Mahalagumb) and tamarind tree. The lamp-tower is almost 70 feet tall. Its is said that light at fire at the tower top was visible as far as Bijapur hence this was like a lighthouse for travelers. The tower was probably built during Adil Shahi's time. The tamarind tree is said to be planted back then ..going by the look of its trunk, the tree is really old. It is similar to the trees seen at Adil Shahi summer resort at Kummatgi.

I'm guessing this isn't the only ancient tree. Probably there are few more trees in the vicinity especially along the stream.

Next time when I visit Devera Hippargi I'll check out points D and E marked in this Google Maps screen-shot here.

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Sep 30, 2017

ಸಾಠ ಕಬರ್, ಬಿಜಾಪುರ್

೧೮ ಆಗಸ್ಟ್ ೨೦೧೭ ಧಾರವಾಡದಿಂದ ಹೈದರಾಬಾದ್ಗೆ ಹೊರಡಲು ಬೆಳಿಗ್ಗೆ ಸುಮಾರು ೬ ಗಂಟೆಗೆ ಮನೆ ಬಿಟ್ಟೆವು. ಸಿದ್ದಿ ಈಗಲೂ ಕೂಡ ಕೆಲವು ಜಾಗಗಳನ್ನು ನೋಡಲು ಮೊದಲೇ ಯೋಚಿಸಿದ್ದರು. ಹಂಪಿ, ಆನೆಗುಂದಿ ಎಲ್ಲ ಸುತ್ತಾಡಿ ಚರ್ಮ ಸುಟ್ಟಿದ್ದರೂ ಸಿದ್ದಿ ಜಾಗಗಳನ್ನು ನೋಡುವ ಯಾವ ಅವಕಾಶವನ್ನೂ ಬಿಡುವದಿಲ್ಲ ಎಂದು ನನಗೆ ಗೊತ್ತಿತ್ತು. ಹುಬ್ಬಳ್ಳಿಯಲ್ಲಿರುವ ನಮ್ಮ ಸಂಬಂಧಿಕರನ್ನು ಸಂಧಿಸಿ, ಸ್ವಲ್ಪ ಸಮಯ ಅವರೊಡನೆ ಕಳೆದು ಮುಂದೆ ಹೋಗುವದರಲ್ಲಿ ಸ್ವಲ್ಪ ತಡವೇ ಆಯಿತು.ಆದ್ದರಿಂದ ಕಲ್ಬುರ್ಗಿಯಲ್ಲಿ ಉಳಿದುಕೊಳ್ಳಬೇಕು ಅನ್ನುವ ವಿಚಾರವನ್ನು ಬದಲಿಸಿ ಬಿಜಾಪುರದಲ್ಲೇ ಉಳಿಯುವದೆಂದು ನಿರ್ಧರಿಸಿದೆವು.

ಇದು ಬಿಜಾಪುರಕ್ಕೆ ನನ್ನ ಸಿದ್ಧಿಯೊಂದಿಗೆ ಎರಡನೇ ಭೇಟಿ. ಮೊದಲ ಸಲ ಬಂದಾಗ ಯಾವ ಜಾಗಗಳನ್ನು ನೋಡಲಿಕ್ಕೆ ಆಗಿರಲಿಲ್ಲವೋ ಅವುಗಳನ್ನು ನೋಡುವದು ಎಂದು ನಿರ್ಧಾರವಾಗಿತ್ತು. ಅದರಂತೆ ಬಿಜಾಪುರಕ್ಕೆ ಬರುತ್ತಿದ್ದಂತೆ ಲಂಡಾ ಕಸಬ್ ತೋಪನ್ನು ನೋಡಿ ಸಾಠ ಕಬರ್  ನೋಡಲು ಹೊರಟೆವು. ಈ ದಿನ ಅಷ್ಟೊಂದು ಬಿಸಿಲಿರಲಿಲ್ಲ. ನಮಗೂ ಸರಿಯಾದ ದಾರಿ ತಿಳಿದಿರಲಿಲ್ಲ. ಗೂಗಲ್ ಡೈರೆಕ್ಷನ್ ಮ್ಯಾಪ್ ಆನ್ ಮಾಡಿದೆ. ಸ್ವಲ್ಪ ದೂರ ಹೋದ ಮೇಲೆ ಅದು ಕೂಡ ಸರಿಯಾದ ದಾರಿ ತೋರಿಸದಾಯಿತು. ಅಲ್ಲಿ ಯಾರನ್ನಾದರೂ ಕೇಳೋಣ ಎಂದು ಕಾರ್ ಕಿಟಕಿ ಇಳಿಸಿ ಇಬ್ಬರಿಗೆ ಕೈ ಮಾಡಿದೆ. ಅವರು ನಾವು ಕೇಳುವ ಮುಂಚೆಯೇ ನಮಗೆ ಆ ಕಡೆ ಹೋಗಬೇಕೆಂದು ಹೇಳಿದರು. ಬಹುಶ ತುಂಬಾ ಜನ ಪ್ರವಾಸಿಗರಿಗೆ ಮಾರ್ಗದರ್ಶನ ಮಾಡಿದ ಮಹಾನುಭಾವರಿರಬೇಕು .. ಅವರಿಗೆ ಧನ್ಯವಾದ ಹೇಳಿ ಅವರು ಹೇಳಿದತ್ತ ಹೋದೆವು. ಸಿದ್ದಿ ಮೊದಲೊಮ್ಮೆ ಇಲ್ಲಿಗೆ ಬಂದಿದ್ದರು. ಆದ್ದರಿಂದ ಸಮೀಪ ಹೋದಾಗ ಅವರಿಗೆ ಜಾಗ ನೆನಪಿಗೆ ಬಂತು. ಕಾರ್ ಅಲ್ಲಿಯವರೆಗೂ ಹೋಗಲ್ಲ ಇಲ್ಲೇ ನಿಲ್ಲಿಸಿ ಹೋಗೋಣ ಎಂದರು. ಸರಿ ಎಂದು ಕಾರ್ ಅಲ್ಲೇ ನಿಲ್ಲಿಸಿ ನಡೆಯತೊಡಗಿದೆವು. ಮಣ್ಣಿನ ಇಕ್ಕಟ್ಟಾದ ದಾರಿ, ಎರಡು ಕಡೆ ಕಂಟಿ ಬೇಲಿಗಳು. ಅದರಲ್ಲೂ ಬಣ್ಣ ಬಣ್ಣದ ಹೂಗಳು ಹಾಗೂ ಸಾಕಷ್ಟು ಬಣ್ಣ ಬಣ್ಣದ ಚಿಟ್ಟೆಗಳು. ನಡೆಯಲು ತುಂಬಾ ಖುಷಿ ಎನಿಸಿತು. ತುಂಬಾ ದೂರ ಏನಿಲ್ಲ ಸುಮಾರು ೨೦೦ ಮೀ ದೂರ ನಡೆದರೆ ಸಾಕು ನಾವು ಸಾಠ ಕಬರ್ ಬಳಿ ತಲುಪಬಹುದು.




ಸಾಠ ಕಬರ್ ಬೇರೆ ಐತಿಹಾಸಿಕ ಸ್ಮಾರಕಗಳಿಗಿಂತ ಭಿನ್ನವಾಗಿದೆ. ಇದರ ಕುರಿತು ಸರ್ಕಾರ ಅಷ್ಟೊಂದು ಚನ್ನಾಗಿ ನಿಗಾ ವಹಿಸಿಲ್ಲ. ಇಲ್ಲಿ ಹೆಚ್ಚು ಜನ ಬರದೇ ಇರುವ ಕಾರಣದಿಂದ ಈ ಜಾಗ ಬಿಕೋ ಎನ್ನುತ್ತಿರುತ್ತದೆ. ಇಲ್ಲಿರುವ ಅರವತ್ತು ಗೋರಿಗಳಲ್ಲಿ ಕೆಲವೊಂದಿಷ್ಟು ಒಡೆದಿವೆ, ಕೆಲವು ಬಿರುಕು ಬಿಟ್ಟಿವೆ, ಕೆಲವುದರ ಮೇಲೆ ಕಸ ಬೆಳೆದಿದೆ. ಇದು ಬಿಜಾಪುರದ ಐತಿಹಾಸಿಕ ಸ್ಮಾರಕಗಳಲ್ಲೇ ಕಪ್ಪು ಚುಕ್ಕೆಯಾಗಿ ಉಳಿದುಬಿಟ್ಟಿದೆ. ಆದರೂ ಕೂಡ ಬಿಜಾಪುರಕ್ಕೆ ಬಂದ ಪ್ರವಾಸಿಗರು ಇದನ್ನು ನೋಡದೆ ಹಿಂತಿರುಗಲು ಇಷ್ಟ ಪಡುವದಿಲ್ಲ. ಎಣಿಸಿ ನೋಡಿದರೆ ಇಲ್ಲಿ ಒಟ್ಟು ಅರವತ್ತಮೂರು ಗೋರಿಗಳನ್ನು ಕಾಣಬಹುದು. ಗೋರಿಗಳು ಅಷ್ಟೊಂದು ಆಕರ್ಷಕವಾದ ವಿನ್ಯಾಸವನ್ನೇನು ಹೊಂದಿಲ್ಲ, ಬೇರೆ ಐತಿಹಾಸಿಕ ಗೋರಿಗಳಿಗೆ ಹೋಲಿಸಿದರೆ ತುಂಬಾ ಸಾಧಾರಣ ವಿನ್ಯಾಸದಲ್ಲಿವೆ.


ಗೋರಿಗಳ ಕಟ್ಟೆಗೆ ಹತ್ತಿಕೊಂಡು ಒಂದು ಕಟ್ಟಡವಿದೆ. ಅದರ ಮೇಲೆ ಹತ್ತಲು ಮೆಟ್ಟಿಲುಗಳನ್ನು ಕೂಡ ನಾವು ಕಾಣಬಹುದು. ಅದರ ಕಟ್ಟಡ ಬೇರೆ ಮುಸ್ಲಿಂ ಐತಿಹಾಸಿಕ ಕಟ್ಟಡಗಳ ವಿನ್ಯಾಸದಲ್ಲೇ ಇದೆ. ಮೇಲೆ ಹತ್ತಿ ನೋಡಿದರೆ ಆ ಅರವತ್ತಮೂರು ಗೋರಿಗಳ ವಿಶಾಲ ನೋಟ ಕಾಣಬಹುದು.



ಈ ಕೆಳಗಿನ ಚಿತ್ರ ಗೋರಿಗಳ ಹಿಂದೆಯೇ ಇರುವ ಬಾವಿಯದು. ಇಲ್ಲಿ ನಾವು ಒಂದು ಮಸೂತಿ ಹಾಗೂ ಒಂದು ಟಾವರ್ ಕಟ್ಟಡವನ್ನು ಕೂಡ ನೋಡಬಹುದು. ಇದೇ ಬಾವಿಯಲ್ಲಿ ನೂಕಿ ಈ ಅರವತ್ತಮೂರು ಜನರನ್ನು ಕೊಂದಿದ್ದು ಎಂದು ಹೇಳಲಾಗುತ್ತದೆ.


ಈ ಮಸೂತಿಯ ಕಟ್ಟಡದ ಮೂರು ಅಂತಸ್ತುಗಳನ್ನು ನಾವು ಕಾಣಬಹುದು. ಒಂದಸ್ತಿನಿಂದ ಮತ್ತೊಂದಕ್ಕೆ ಹೋಗಲು ಮಸೂತಿಯ ಒಳಗಿನಿಂದ ಮೆಟ್ಟಿಲುಗಳಿವೆ. ಕಟ್ಟಡವು ತುಂಬಾ ಆಕರ್ಷಕವಾಗೇ ಇದೆ. ಆದರೆ ಅದರ ನಿರ್ವಹಣೆ ಅಷ್ಟೊಂದು ಚನ್ನಾಗಿಲ್ಲ.



ಇಲ್ಲಿ ಕಾಣುವ ಬುರುಜು, ಬಾವಿಯಿಂದ ನೀರು ಸೇದಿ ಬೇರೆಡೆಗೆ ನೀರು ಸಾಗಿಸುವ ಕಟ್ಟಡದಂತೆ ಕಾಣುತ್ತದೆ.



ಕೆಳಗಿನ ಚಿತ್ರದಲ್ಲಿ ಮಸೂತಿ ಒಳಗಿನಿಂದ ಮೇಲೆ ಬರಲು ದಾರಿಯನ್ನು ಕಾಣಬಹುದು.


ಮಸೂತಿಯ ಒಳಗಿನ ಚಿತ್ರ. ಈ ರೀತಿಯ ಕಟ್ಟಡ ವಿನ್ಯಾಸವನ್ನು ನಾವು ಸಾಮಾನ್ಯವಾಗಿ ಬಹಳಷ್ಟು ಐತಿಹಾಸಿಕ ಮುಸ್ಲಿಂ ಕಟ್ಟಡಗಳಲ್ಲಿ ಕಾಣಬಹದು.


ಮಸೂತಿಯ ಹೊರಗಿನಿಂದ ತೆಗೆದ ಚಿತ್ರ.


ಅರವತ್ತು ಗೋರಿಗಳ ಕಥೆ....
ಈ ಅರವತ್ತಮೂರು ಗೋರಿಗಳ ಕತೆ ತುಂಬಾ ರೋಮಾಂಚಕ ಹಾಗೂ ದುಃಖದಿಂದ ಕೂಡಿದೆ. ಈ ಗೋರಿಗಳು ಆಫ್ಜಲ್ ಖಾನ್ ಎಂಬ ಸೈನ್ಯಾಧಿಕಾರಿಯ ಹೆಂಡತಿಯರದೆಂದು ಹೇಳಲಾಗುತ್ತದೆ. ಆಫ್ಜಲಖಾನನು ಬಿಜಾಪುರ್ ಸುಲ್ತಾನ್ ಅಲಿ ಆದಿಲ್ ಶಾಹ್ ೨ ಕಾಲದಲ್ಲಿ ಪ್ರಮುಖ ಸೈನ್ಯಾಧಿಕಾರಿಯಾಗಿದ್ದನು. ಇವನು ತುಂಬಾ ಧೈರ್ಯಶಾಲಿ ಹಾಗೂ ಎಷ್ಟೋ ಯುದ್ಧಗಳನ್ನು ಗೆದ್ದವನಾಗಿದ್ದನು. ೧೬೫೯ ರಲ್ಲಿ ಬಿಜಾಪುರ ಸಾಮ್ರಾಜ್ಯವು, ಮುಘಲ್ ಹಾಗೂ ಮರಾಠರ ಆಕ್ರಮಣಕ್ಕೆ ಸಿಕ್ಕು ಕುಸಿಯತೊಡಗಿತು. ಆಗ ೨ನೆ ಅಲಿ ಆದಿಲ್ ಶಾಹ್ ನ ಅಪ್ಪಣೆಯಂತೆ ಆಫ್ಜಲ್ ಖಾನನು ಮರಾಠ ಸಾಮ್ರಾಠನದ ಶಿವಾಜಿಯನ್ನು ಎದುರಿಸಲು ಪ್ರತಾಪಘಡಗೆ ಹೋಗುವ ನಿರ್ಧಾರ ಮಾಡಿದನು. ಆಫ್ಜಲ್ ಖಾನನು ಜ್ಯೋತಿಷ್ಯದಲ್ಲಿ ಅಪಾರವಾದ ನಂಬಿಕೆಯನ್ನಿಟ್ಟಿದ್ದರಿಂದ, ಯಾವುದೇ ಯುದ್ಧಕ್ಕೆ ಹೋಗುವ ಮೊದಲು ಜ್ಯೋತಿಷಿಯ ಹತ್ತಿರ ಹೋಗಿ ಭವಿಷ್ಯವನ್ನು ಕೇಳುವದು ಅವನ ರೂಢಿಯಾಗಿತ್ತು. ಅದರಂತೆ ಈ ಸಲವೂ ಹೋಗಿ ಕೇಳಿದನು. ಜ್ಯೋತಿಷಿಯು ಈ ಬಾರಿ ಯುದ್ಧದಲ್ಲಿ ಸೋತು ಮಡಿಯುವದಾಗಿ ತಿಳಿಸಿ ಯುದ್ಧಕ್ಕೆ ಹೋಗದಿರಲು ಸೂಚಿಸಿದನು. ಆದರೆ ಆಫ್ಜಲ್ ಖಾನನು ಈಗಾಗಲೇ ಸುಲ್ತಾನರಿಗೆ ಮಾತು ಕೊಟ್ಟಿದ್ದರಿಂದ ಹೋಗದೆ ಇರುವದು ಸಾಧ್ಯವಿರಲಿಲ್ಲ.

ಅವನಿಗೆ ಈಗ ಒಂದು ದೊಡ್ಡ ಚಿಂತೆ ಎಂದರೆ ತನ್ನ ಮರಣದ ನಂತರ ತನ್ನ ಅರವತ್ನಾಲ್ಕು ಮಡದಿಯರು ಬೇರೆ ಮದುವೆ ಮಾಡಿಕೊಳ್ಳಬಹುದು. ಇದು ಅವನಿಗೆ ಸುತಾರಾಂ ಒಪ್ಪಿಗೆ ಇರಲಿಲ್ಲ. ಅದಕ್ಕಾಗಿ ಅವನು ಅವರೆಲ್ಲರನ್ನು ಯುದ್ಧಕ್ಕೆ ಹೋಗುವ ಮೊದಲು ಕೊಲ್ಲುವದಾಗಿ ನಿರ್ಧರಿಸಿಕೊಂಡನು. ಬಿಜಾಪುರದಿಂದ ಸುಮಾರು ೫ ಕಿ ಮೀ ದೂರದಲ್ಲಿರುವ ನವರಸಪುರ ಎಂಬ ಸ್ಥಳಕ್ಕೆ ತನ್ನ ಮಡದಿಯರನ್ನು ಒಬ್ಬೊಬ್ಬರನ್ನಾಗಿ ಕರೆದುಕೊಂಡು ಹೋಗಿ ಅಲ್ಲಿರುವ ಆಳವಾದ ಬಾವಿಗೆ ನೂಕಿ ಕೊಲ್ಲತೊಡಗಿದನು. ಹೋದವರು ಮರಳಿ ಬಾರದಿದ್ದನ್ನು ನೋಡಿ ಒಬ್ಬ ಹೆಂಡತಿಗೆ ಸಂದೇಹ ಬಂದು ಅವಳು ತಪ್ಪಿಸಿಕೊಂಡು ಓಡಿಹೋದಳೆಂದೂ, ಅವಳು ಯಾವುದೊ ಊರಿನಲ್ಲಿ ಸಿಕ್ಕಿ ಅಲ್ಲೇ ಅವಳನ್ನು ಕೊಂದು, ಸಮಾಧಿ ಮಾಡಿದನೆಂದು ಪ್ರತೀತಿ ಇದೆ. ಉಳಿದವರ ಗೋರಿಗಳು ಆ ಬಾವಿಗೆ ಹತ್ತಿಕೊಂಡೆ ಇವೆ. ಇಲ್ಲಿ ಒಂದು ಗೋರಿ ಮಾತ್ರ ಖಾಲಿ ಇದೆ.

ಇದಾದಮೇಲೆ ಆಫ್ಜಲ್ ಖಾನ್ ಯುದ್ಧಕ್ಕೆ ಹೋಗುತ್ತಾನೆ. ೧೬೫೯ ನವೆಂಬರ್ ೧೦ರಂದು ಶಿವಾಜಿಯಿಂದ ಹತನಾಗುತ್ತಾನೆ.

ಇದೆ ಈ ಅರವತ್ತಮೂರು ಗೋರಿಗಳ ದಾರುಣ ಕತೆ. ಈ ಕತೆಯನ್ನು ನಾನು ನನ್ನ ಒಬ್ಬ ಸಹೋದ್ಯೋಗಿಗೆ ಹೇಳಿದಾಗ, ಅವಳ ಪ್ರಶ್ನೆ ಆಫ್ಜಲ್ ಖಾನ್ ಸತ್ತಾಗ ಅವನ ವಯಸ್ಸೆಷ್ಟಿರಬಹುದು? ಮತ್ತು ಅವನು ೬೪ ಮದುವೆ ಮಾಡಿಕೊಂಡಿದ್ದಾದರೆ ಒಂದೇ ಬಾರಿಯಂತೂ ಇಷ್ಟೊಂದು ಮದುವೆ ಆಗಿರಲಿಕ್ಕಿಲ್ಲ, ಬಹುಶ ಈ ೬೪ ಹೆಂಡತಿಯರಲ್ಲಿ ಮದುವೆ ಮಾಡಿಕೊಂಡು ಒಂದು ವರ್ಷದಲ್ಲೇ ಅಥವಾ ಅದಕ್ಕೂ ಕಡಿಮೆ ಸಮಯದಲ್ಲೇ ಒಬ್ಬ ಹೆಂಡತಿಯಾದರು ಈ ದಾರುಣ ಹತ್ಯಾಕಾಂಡದಲ್ಲಿ ಬಲಿಯಾಗಿರಬಹುದು ಎಂದರು.... ನಿಜವಾಗಲೂ ಎಷ್ಟೊಂದು ಘೋರ! ಎನಿಸಿದ್ದು ಆ ಸಮಯದಲ್ಲಿ... :(

ಅಂತೂ ಸಾಠ ಕಬರ್ ನೋಡಿ ನಾನು ಸಿದ್ದಿ, ಬಾರಹ ಕಮಾನ್ ಕಡೆ ನಡೆದೆವು. ಮನಸ್ಸು ಮಾತ್ರ ಆ ಘೋರ ಹತ್ಯಾಖಾಂಡದ ಕತೆಯನ್ನೇ ಮೆಲುಕು ಹಾಕುತ್ತಿತ್ತು....

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