Oct 9, 2021

Uttarakumara Gudi, Tambur

This article is continuation of the previous article on Tambur Kere.

The main temple of Tambur village is Basavanna Gudi. The temple's chief deity is Shivalinga however due to the large Nandi idol the temple is known as Basavanna Devara Gudi. Then there are smaller temples who's history has been lost due to unthoughtful changes to the temple structures. The other historic temple of the village is on a mound on the northern outskirts. The temple is not really visible from the road because of the steepness of the mound. A few seconds ascent and the temple comes into view. The temple is small and taken over by vegetation. Villagers remove the overgrowth once the rains subside.

At the first glance, the temple looks like an ancient Greek structure. Probably because of the hidden Shikhara and side walls, the dominating pair of slim pillars create that effect. Anyway, the temple is compact, it has two sections- Ardhamantapa and Garbhagudi.

This is the rear of the temple. The walls are plain but the stepped Shikhara is slightly decorated. In fact there are many temple at Badami and Hampi with this type of Shikhara.

Here's a clearer view of the temple I found on Google Maps uploaded by a user named Shivakumar B. I couldn't find anyway to contact him hence took the liberty to post the image with due credit. The temple looks larger in this picture than in my photos. The architecture seems Chalukyan. It could be built around the same time as Basavanna Deva Gudi. 

Next to the temple entrance is this broken sculpture. The incomplete idol seems to be of a female character, its face has a peaceful expression. 

This is the Garbhagudi door frame work which consists of a pair of superbly sculpted columns, a Torana and door frame. Villagers have painted it lime trying to make it look nice but they don't realize that lime eats into the stone and weakens it eventually. Had the pillars been left alone, the details would be clearer. Now their real beauty is hidden.

The midsection i.e. the ribbed section of the pillar is a great piece of work. The base of the pillars is a standard design in Chalukyan temples. 

The temple's deity is Shivalinga. The other idol behind the deity is Ganesha. The Garbhagudi floor was littered with bat droppings. I feel weekly rituals is the norm here... probably every Monday, the temple floor is swept and washed before pooje is performed. Coming to the shrine's name, I'm wondering why its called Uttarakumara Gudi. To my knowledge, Uttarakumara is a boastful and cowardly prince in Mahabharatha. I'm not sure if this shrine has any connection to him.

This is the Garbhagudi ceiling. This too is a standard design in Chalukyan temples.

A view from inside the Ardhamantapa. Paddy and sugarcane fields as far as the eyes can see. The pillars are well made. Ancient builders never compromised on the quality irrespective of the temple size.

Full height pictures of the pillars. Besides the slim pillars, there are two stout rectangular section pillars supporting the walls and beams. 

The Ardhamantapa ceiling was low. A foot long nest of some insect... may be a wasp hive.

A cattle herd moving around asked me to check out another Shivalinga kept in the open but surrounded by low walls. The pedestal was superbly done... sharp edges and right angle corners. Even the Shivalinga was well sculpted. Even the cattle herd had no idea why the idol was in the open.

I thank the man and leave. This is the view of the path from the road to the temple. This is just to give an idea of the surroundings.

The heat was really get on now. Even a few minutes in sunlight was uncomfortable. I quickly get back into the car and start driving with all glasses down.

I think there are other less visited ancient temples in Dharwad district yet to be discovered. 

.........

2 comments:

  1. Such abandoned ruined temples reminds me of Basavanna's famous vachana. Especailly when the places, like so many you share, that are lay some place hidden an isolated.

    Vachana 820 by Basava.

    The rich
    will make temples for Siva.
    What shall I,
    a poor man,
    do?

    My legs are pillars,
    the body the shrine,
    the head a cupola
    of gold.

    Listen, O lord of the meeting rivers,
    things standing shall fall,
    but the moving ever shall stay.

    - translated from the Kannada by A.K. Ramanujan in Speaking of Siva

    ReplyDelete
  2. Such a nice thought Nikhil.

    ಉಳ್ಳವರು ಶಿವಾಲಯವ ಮಾಡುವರು!
    ನಾನೇನ ಮಾಡುವೆ? ಬಡವನಯ್ಯ!
    ಎನ್ನ ಕಾಲೇ ಕಂಬ, ದೇಹವೇ ದೇಗುಲ,
    ಶಿರವೇ ಹೊನ್ನ ಕಳಶವಯ್ಯ!
    ಕೂಡಲಸಂಗಮದೇವ ಕೇಳಯ್ಯ,
    ಸ್ಥಾವರಕ್ಕಳಿವುಂಟು, ಜಂಗಮಕ್ಕಳಿವಿಲ್ಲ!

    simple lines with a deep meaning.

    ReplyDelete