Sri Duradundishwara Punyaranya Siddasansthana, Arabhavi Mata

A few years ago I heard that Raja Mallasarja Desai, king of Kittur kingdom and husband of Rani Chennamma, died at Arabhavi Mata. His mortal remains are said to be buried within the Mata premises. Besides the Mata's own history, Raja Mallasarja's connection makes this even more important place. A visit to Arabhavi Mata was on the list of places to visit until the day we planned to visit Hukkeri. Since we were traveling by car I added a few historical places to the plan- Arabhavimata, Chikaleshwara Gudi and prehistoric dolmen at Konnur.

September 23, 2022

We left Dharwad around 6-15 AM, drove straight to Yelimunnoli, a village near Hukkeri town. During that visit, November 2015, I happened to see the three Mohamadden tombs of Hukkeri built in the XVI Century. The purpose of the visit was to meet Pushpa's relatives at Yelimunnoli. Around noon we left Yelimunnoli / Hukkeri and headed towards Gokak, Arabhavi Mata was our destination. The monastery is adjacent to Ghataprabha-Gokak highway. We turn off the main road,, into a side road which lead to the monastery. This imposing gateway comes into view. I had least expected to see a building of this size. Wow! This is like a palace's gateway.

The board over the doorway states the formal name of this monastery- Sri Duradundishwara Punyaranya Siddasansthana, Arabhamvimata. People commonly refer to this place as Arabhavi Mata. It is said that this monastery is 500 to 600 years old. The present head of this monastery is the eleventh seer. This structure made of dressed sandstone blocks seems to be approximately 200 to 300 years old.

View through the gateway... The gateway is a sheltered structure with platform on either sides. Probably in the olden days there used to be guards stationed here. The pillared structure is the main shrine of this premises, its is the temple dedicated to the founder i.e. Shivayogi Duradundishwara. Inside the temple is his Samadhi.

In the present there aren't any sentries guarding the entrance. However, a part of this gateway is being used as a post office. So this is officially Arabhavi Mata post office with its own pin code 591310. Its always nice to see a red postbox in this age of digital technology.

The Samadhi building is an impressive structure. First of all, has a high base, its almost 6' high. Then the pillars & beams, over them is the roof. The overall height could a little over 20 feet. The line of pillars goes around  perimeter. I'm guessing there are approximately 44 pillars. Between the pillars and the sanctum wall is the circumbulatory path i.e. people who wish to go around the Gadduge can walk in that space. Another interesting thing is the pair of identical idols on either sides. They are idols of larger than life, man sitting cross-legged in a seat.

A quick turn around to take a look at the inner side of the gateway and a row of tiles roof rooms. These rooms seems to be the seer's residence-office. This courtyard would be covered with temporary shelters during the annaul fair or any special occasion. 

A diagonal view of the Sri Duradundishwara Gadduge. The pillars are more or less identical except for minor variations in murals. We couldn't enter the steps and go up to the sanctum entrance since a team of men were washing the walls and floor of the circumbulation path. Cleaning was part of preparation for Navaratri. Until now I hadn't paid much attention to the pair of larger than life idols.

For a moment I was taken back on noticing the genitals. There must be a story behind these idols... well built, huge belly, handlebar mustache, a turban, saffron cloth around the neck, a lungi ties around the waist and genitals exposed. I was curious about the unusual idols but people were really busy, didn't feel like interrupting them. Hopefully one day I'll unravel the story behind these dressed yet naked depiction.

Since the Gadduge was out of bounds for the next few hors we decided to check out Raja Mallasarja's memorial which was behind the main shrine.

The rear part of the Gadduge building seems to have several rooms in two levels. I guess these are rooms for the priests and other staff here. Probably few of the rooms are store rooms as well. I think the monastery had immense financial support in the past, probably still has.

Behind the main shrine are several smaller structures. Inside this long building with two doors are Gadduge of seers of this monastery. I took a quick peep inside, there were three or four Gadduge inside. Opposite this is a smaller shrine, not sure of the deity inside. 

The board planted here reads the names of the eleven seers of this monastery. Following is the transcript of the board:

ಶ್ರೀಮನ್ ನಿರಂಜನ ಜಗದ್ಗುರು ಶ್ರೀ ದುರದುಂಡೀಶ್ವರ ಪುಣ್ಯಾರಣ್ಯ ಸಿದ್ದ ಸಂಸ್ಥಾನ ಮಠ ಆರಭಾಂವಿ 

ಶ್ರೀ ಮಠದ ಪೀಠಾಧಿಪತಿಗಳು:-

1. ಶ್ರೀ ಮ. ನೀ. ಪ್ರ. ಸ್ತ. ಜ. ಆದಿಕರ್ತೃ ದುರದುಂಡೀಶ್ವರ ಶಿವಯೋಗಿಗಳು 

2. ಶ್ರೀ ಮ. ನೀ. ಪ್ರ. ಸ್ತ. ಜ. ಕೊಳ್ಳದಾರ್ಯರು ಶಿವಯೋಗಿಗಳು 

3. ಶ್ರೀ ಮ. ನೀ. ಪ್ರ. ಸ್ತ. ಜ. ಸಿದ್ದರಾಮ ಶಿವಯೋಗಿಗಳು 

4. ಶ್ರೀ ಮ. ನೀ. ಪ್ರ. ಸ್ತ. ಜ. ಘಟವಾಳಯ್ಯ ಶಿವಯೋಗಿಗಳು 

5. ಶ್ರೀ ಮ. ನೀ. ಪ್ರ. ಸ್ತ. ಜ. ಸಿದ್ದಲಿಂಗ ಶಿವಯೋಗಿಗಳು 

6. ಶ್ರೀ ಮ. ನೀ. ಪ್ರ. ಸ್ತ. ಜ. ಹಗ್ಗದಾರ್ಯ ಶಿವಯೋಗಿಗಳು 

7. ಶ್ರೀ ಮ. ನೀ. ಪ್ರ. ಸ್ತ. ಜ. ಶಿವಲಿಂಗ ಶಿವಯೋಗಿಗಳು 

8. ಶ್ರೀ ಮ. ನೀ. ಪ್ರ. ಸ್ತ. ಜ. ಇಮ್ಮಡಿ ಸಿದ್ದಲಿಂಗ ಶಿವಯೋಗಿಗಳು 

9. ಶ್ರೀ ಮ. ನೀ. ಪ್ರ. ಸ್ತ. ಜ. ಮಹಾಂತ ಶಿವಯೋಗಿಗಳು 

10. ಶ್ರೀ ಮ. ನೀ. ಪ್ರ. ಸ್ತ. ಜ. ಶಿವಾನಂದ ಶಿವಯೋಗಿಗಳು 

11. ಶ್ರೀ ಮ. ನೀ. ಪ್ರ. ಸ್ತ. ಜ. ಸಿದ್ದಲಿಂಗ ಶಿವಯೋಗಿಗಳು 

This Mantapa is Raja Mallasarja memorial. The memorial has a fresh look, definitely a recent paint work. However I'm not sure how old the Mantapa is. Anyway, this is a historical site of importance.

Inside the Mantapa is a stone slab on which Raja Mallasarja is said to have drawn his final breath. Thanks to the people who took the initiative of preserving this slab. 

A board planted next to the Mantapa briefly states the last days of Raja Mallasarja in a few lines. Transcript of the board:

ರಾಜಾ ಮಲ್ಲಸರ್ಜರ ಕಟ್ಟೆ

ಭಾರತದ ಸ್ವತಂತ್ರ ಸಂಗ್ರಾಮದ ಬೆಳ್ಳಿ ಚುಕ್ಕೆ ಕಿತ್ತೂರು ರಾಣಿ ಚೆನ್ನಾಮ್ಮಾಜಿಯ ಪತಿ ಮಲ್ಲಸರ್ಜ ದೇಸಾಯಿ. ಶ್ರೀ ದುರದುಂಡೀಶ್ವರ ಕಾರುಣ್ಯದ ಕಂದನಾಗಿ ಭಕ್ತಿ ಶಿರೋಮಣಿ ಜಂಗಮ ಪ್ರಿಯ ಧಾರ್ಮ ಪಾರಾಯದ ಕ್ರಾಂತಿಕಾರಿ ಪುರುಷ. ಇವರು ತಮ್ಮ ಕೊನೆಯ ಕಾಲದಲ್ಲಿ ಶ್ರೀ ದುರದುಂಡೀಶ್ವರರ ಪಾದಗಳಲ್ಲಿ ಈ ದೆಹ ಲೀನವಾಗಲಿ ಎಂದು ಸಂಕಲ್ಪ ಮಾಡಿದರು. ಆಗ ಮಲ್ಲಸರ್ಜರನ್ನು ಪೇಶ್ವೇಯರು ಪೂಣೆಯ ಕಾರಾಗ್ರಹದಲ್ಲಿ ಬಂದಿಸಿಟ್ಟಿದ್ದರು. ದೊರೆಗಳ ದೇಹ ಸ್ಥಿತಿ ಹದೆಗೆಟ್ಟಾಗ ಅವರನ್ನು ಬಿಡುಗಡೆ ಮಾಡಿದರು. ಪೂಣೆಯಿಂದ ಅರಭಾವಿ ಮಠಕ್ಕೆ ಕರೆತರಲಾಯಿತು. ಈ ಆಘಾತದ ಸುದ್ದಿ ತಿಳಿದು ರಾಣಿ ರುದ್ರಮ್ಮ, ರಾಣಿ ಚನ್ನಮ್ಮ ಕಿತ್ತೂರಿನಿಂದ ಧಾವಿಸಿ ಬಂದರು. ಆಗ ಮಲ್ಲಸರ್ಜ ದೇಸಾಯಿಯರು ಶ್ರೀ ದುರದುಂಡೀಶ್ವರರ ದರ್ಶನ ಆಶೀರ್ವಾದ ಪಡೆದು, ಪಾದೋದಕ ಅಂಬಲಿ ಸ್ವೀಕರಿಸಿ ಈ ಕಟ್ಟೆಯ ಮೇಲೆ ಲಿಂಗೈಕ್ಯರಾದರು (ಕ್ರಿ ಶ ೧೮೧೬)  ಅಂದಿನಿಂದ ಈ ಸ್ಥಳ ಕಿತ್ತೂರಿನ ಇತಿಹಾಸದಲ್ಲಿ ಐತಿಹಾಸಿಕ ಕೇಂದ್ರಬಿಂದುವಾಗಿದೆ.

Below is the rough translation:

Mallasarja Desai, husband of Kittur Rani Chennammaji, is the silver dot of India's freedom struggle. He was a great disciple of Shivayogi Duradundishwara. He had resolved to spend his last days in the company of His Holiness Shivayogi Duradundishwara. Raja Mallasarja was imprisoned at Pune jail by the Peshwa. When Raja Mallasarja's health deteriorated he was released from Pune prison and brought to Arabhavimata. Hearing this news, his queens Rudramma and Chennamma rushed from Kittur to Arabhavimata. At that time, with the divine grace of Shivayogi Duradundishwara, Raja Mallasarja passed away on this stone bench i.e. in 1816 CE. From that day this remained as an important spot in the history of Kittur kingdom.

The writeup doesn't say that Raja Mallasarja's body was buried here. In earlier times, bodies were buried without delay. It should be okay to assume that it was also the case in Raja Mallasarja's case. The shortest route from Arabhavimata to Kittur is 80+ kilometers with two river crossings. In those days it would easily required a day or two. Transporting a body wouldn't be an option then. Also Mallasarja's queens were present with the body. I guess his last rites were performed at Arabhavimata itself.

This is another Mantapa next to Raja Mallasarja memorial. This seems to be a recent construction, probably 80 to 90 years old. I think this was used for meetings between Swamiji and other important people..

Another important building here is this simple looking structure. This is a memorial to a cow which was here during the time of Shivayogi Duradundishwara. The board seen in this pictures reads as below:

ಆಕಳ ಗದ್ದುಗೆ

ಆದಿ ಕರ್ತ್ಯು ಶ್ರೀ ದುರದುಂಡೀಶ್ವರರಿಗೆ ಆಕಳು ಸತತ ಹಾಲು ಕೊಡುತ್ತಿತ್ತು. ಯಾವತ್ತೂ ಗರ್ಭ ಧರಿಸುತ್ತಿರಲಿಲ್ಲ. ದೇವಲೋಕದ ನಂದಿನಿ ಇದಾಗಿತ್ತು. ಇದರ ನೆನಪಿಗಾಗಿ ಈ ಮಂದಿರ ನಿರ್ಮಾಣವಾಗಿದೆ.

The Swamiji considered the cow to be divine like the celestial Nandini. Hence it was buried and a building erected in her memory. In the sanctum is an idol of a cow. The team of men cleaning the premises washed this shrine as well. Truly a very dedicated group of people serving this ancient monastery.

Lastly, lets take a quick look of the neighboring shrine namely Sri Kotturu Basaveshwara Devastana. The temple enclosure has two entrances, one in the east and other in the north. The northern entrance is linked to Sri Duradundishwara premises. The larger gateway is the one shown earlier i.e. to the monastery and the smaller gateway is the entrance to Kotturu Basaveshwara Gudi.

This the rear of the temple, the ancient sandstone walls and stepped Shikhara over the Garbhagriha. The didn't take pictures of the front because it was too crowded with metal railings and grills. The deity of this temple is Nandi. The eastern entrance of this enclosure is a smaller version of the monastery entrance.

Three sides of the enclosure is sheltered like this. This is a feature of our ancient temples where travelers could visit the temple and rest. Within this enclosure is a small shrine dedicated to Gangambike, wife of Jagatjyoti Basaveshwara. During the Kalyani revolution, Gagambike along with Akka Nagamma, Channabasaveshwara and other Shivasharanas travel southwards pursued by Bijjala's army. The Shivasharanas were on the run to save Vachana Sahitya. many were martyred during the struggle. In a major battle at Kadrolli, a village on Malaprabha north bank, Bijjala's soldiers were defeated by Shivasharanas, Bijjala's soldiers gave up the pursuit. A short distance from Kadrolli is Gangambike memorial.

One of the monastery staff asked us to take Anna Prasada which was served close to the monastery kitchen. A simple tasty lunch of sajjaka, rice and thilisaru was on the menu. There were a few students and teachers from nearby school and college. It was a satisfying meal, my hunger was taken care of at the right time. Anna Dasoha is one thing that our temples & monasteries have in practice for centuries. The institutions receive discreet donations from common people. Isn't that a wonderful part our religious culture.

After lunch we stayed in the monastery for about half an hour and left. Our next destination was Konnur to see Chikaleshwara Devastana and the prehistoric dolmen.

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