Apr 29, 2021

Over the clouds

Local dogs have joined us during our treks at Savandurga. They would tag along at the base and accompany all the way up & down. While I panted and sweated, they would climb effortlessly. I think they climbed easily because... humans are two feet drive (2FD) and dogs are four feet drive (4FD). At the summit, they would rest along with us. They looked so peaceful, closed eyes, calmness written all over their faces, as though in deep meditation.

This particular one you see below, accompanied us (a kid from Savandurga village and I) all the way. This is the only time I ever clouds below the summit. I've been here when the entire hill was shrouded in mist or clouds during rainy seasons but, this happened just one time.

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Apr 24, 2021

few shots from Kais, Kullu

These pictures were shot during my only trip to Kais village situated between Kullu and Manali. These views were directly opposite the monastery where I was a guest for 10 days. 

At this level there are no houses because of presence of wild animals and snow. The lower and middle levels are hospitable.

Pine trees have monopoly at this level due to climatic conditions and absence of human settlements. Inside a pine forest, even the ground is covered in a thick layer of pine needles, other plants hardly have a chance to grow there.

In the Himalayas, sunrise and sunset times varies with the altitude. Settlements at lower altitude get lesser sunlight because of mountain shadows. The ones at higher altitude receive sunlight slightly longer but then they are colder as well. It's my personal experience.. as soon as shadow is cast on your place the temperature drops by 5 degrees easily.

Many houses light up their stoves minutes after sunset. The stoves are special- they are used to heat vessels and also the living room. As I watched the shadow climb a mountain, smokes rose from chimneys. This large column was probably from a big house.

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Apr 17, 2021

Directions names in Kannada

Until a decade ago I'd not paid attention to direction names in Kannada. During conversations with rural folk, I found some words interesting. The had names for rains and winds based on directions. For example- Moodgalli and Padugaali. Moodgali is the spoken version of Moodana Gaali i.e. wind blowing from east. Padugaali is Paduvana Gaali i.e. wind blowing from west. Padugaali gives way to Moodgaali as winter sets in. Moodgaali is associated with sickness, one can see cases of cold and cough during the changeover and few days later too. Unlike English names, Kannada directions have unique words and multiple words too.


Northಉತ್ತರ / ಬಡಗಣ
North-Eastಈಶಾನ್ಯ (ಶಿವನ ದಿಕ್ಕು, ಮೂಳ್ವಡ)
Eastಪೂರ್ವ / ಮೂಡಣ (ಮೂಡಲ)
South-Eastಆಗ್ನೇಯ (ತೆಂಕುವೂಡಣ, ಮೂಡುದೆಂಕಣ, ತೆಮ್ಮೂಡು)
Southದಕ್ಷಿಣ / ತೆಂಕಣ
South-Westನೈಋತ್ಯ (ತೆಂಕುವಡುವಣ, ಪಡುದೆಂಕಣ, ತೆಂಪಡು)
Westಪಶ್ಚಿಮ / ಪಡುವಣ
North-Westವಾಯವ್ಯ

There's so much knowledge one could gain from talking to rural folks, especially the elderly ones. And, when we learn something anew, it must be documented and shared. What's the point in not sharing such knowledge?

Besides this topic, you might find the article on place names interesting: Toponymy across Karnataka.
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Apr 10, 2021

Baobab trees of Martur

February last week a comment on Martur fort and Mithakshara inscription brought a surprise. The comment owner Amit Kumar revealed his discovery of Baobab trees at Martur. The discovery of another Baobab site was a pleasant surprise, more so because I'd missed them during my visit. If I remember correctly, the few hours I spent at Martur was mostly at Deshmukh Waade and Vijnaneshwara Bhavan. Probably no one mentioned about the Baobabs. Probably I hadn't paid attention to what people were telling. Anyway, I heard of them from a Baaobab enthusiast based out of Kalburgi. The pictures of the two Baobab trees were shot by Amit during his visit. They have been posted here with his permission.

The two Baobabs are situated in Mahalakshmi Gudi which is adjacent to Shankaralingeshwara Gudi also called Mahalingeshwara Gudi. This is the bigger tree of the two. Baobabs are bare half the time i.e. they have leaves only for six months. Apparently they flower during the leafy time. The fruits mature slowly and ready for picking well after the leaves are shed.

Look at the branches at the top, there are many fruits. Probably they are not ready for picking yet. The Shikhara seen here must be Mahalaxmi Gudi's.

Going by the size of the trunk, the tree could be 150 to 200 years old.

The tree trunk's base is packed by stone slabs.. this prevents the soil breathing around the trunk. Soil needs to be in contact with air and also it allows rain water to flow in. Wish people remove new slabs and water the trees once a week or fortnight.

One of the fruits which has grown out from the main trunk. It seems to be a 9" long, has a velvet like skin which might turn leathery as it matures. The fruit's pulp and seeds are nutritious and said to possess healing properties. I've heard that even its leaves and flowers could be eaten raw. Amit says the tree is called as Kalpavriksha. I knew coconut tree is called Kalpavriksha. Now we have two trees which qualify as Kalpavriksha.

This is the smaller Baobab, it looks younger too, probably 50 years old. This tree must've grown naturally i.e. not planted intentionally. This plant definitely needs space to grow. Its almost touching the platform. The tree cannot be moved so would be better to tear down the platform and make space around the trunk base.

Another view of the tree. It has a bent gracefully. However the tree seems to be asking for care. Martur people must be proud to have living heritage besides other monuments. I beg the people of Martur to take care of their Baobabs along with the temples. They must create awareness about the trees through out the village, especially the youngsters. They must plant boards near the trees with a message to respect them and not to harm them.

Amit's passion for plant life is deep. He has a collection of rare plants which includes Baobab and Krihnae Ficus. He's researched and gained knowledge about rare plants. Baobabs don't reproduce as easily as other varieties because its seeds requires certain conditions to germinate. So to mass produce saplings some level of human intervention is required. Amit has learned the art & science of creating conditions favorable to convert the seeds to saplings. Here are few saplings from his little nursery in his kitchen garden.

Thanks to Amit for discovering the Baobabs of Martur and sharing his knowledge about them. Also thanks for Shamrao for offering to help if we need any further information.

Besides Martur, I learned about a Baobab which stands right besides Kurnool-Srisailam highway, and another one at the Cuddapah town municipal office premises. Hoping to see them some time.

Baobab is a native of Africa. In the XV or XVI Centuries, the Sufi ascetics who traveled from Africa & Middle East to India had carried seeds & saplings with them and planted them where ever that camped. Hundreds of them were planted on the Indian soil, mostly in Maharastra, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh and Rajasthan. A few made their way into Goa, Karnataka, Telangana and Andhra Pradesh. A few of the them have survived to this day.

Here is a list of known Baobab trees of India-
  1. Hilltop Nightclub, Vagator, Goa
  2. Cabo Raj Bhavan, Dona Paula, Goa
  3. Quepem, Goa
  4. Bamboo Motels, Goa
  5. next to Yogapur mosque, Bijapur
  6. near Ibrahim Roza, Bijapur, Karnataka (this tree died a few years ago)
  7. Dodda Hunashe Matha, Savanur, Karnataka
  8. Near the aquarium in Lalbagh Botanical Garden, Bengaluru
  9. Purana Qilla, Golconda Fort, Hyderabad, Telangana
  10. Attapur, Hyderabad
  11. Vansthalipuram, Hyderabad, Telangana
  12. near Chappel Road, Hyderabad, Telangana
  13. Ranganath temple at Nanakramguda, Hyderabad, Telangana
  14. Uppal in Chengicherla Reserve Forests, Hyderabad, Telangana
  15. Nellore, Andhrapradesh
  16. Theosophist Society Gardens, Chennai, Tamil Nadu
  17. The American College campus, Madurai, Tamil Nadu
  18. Chinmaya Vidyalaya's campus at Ilanthope, Rajapalayam, Tamil Nadu
  19. Mangaliawas near Ajmer, Rajasthan
  20. Vadodara, Gujarat
  21. Dayapur, Gujarat
  22. Kutch, Gujarat
  23. Bhanagar, Gujarat
  24. Baroda, Gujarat
  25. near Gujarat College / Victoria Garden / Sukharamnagar, Ahmedabad, Gujarat
  26. Mulund, Mumbai, Maharashtra
  27. Byculla zoo, Mumbai, Maharashtra
  28. Outside the Vasai fort, Maharashtra
  29. Tilak road and Ghole road, Pune, Maharashtra
  30. near Aurangabad, Maharashtra
  31. inside Shirala fort, Sangli district, Maharashtra
  32. Mandavgad or Mandu, Madhya Pradesh
  33. near Sangam, left bank of the Ganga, Prayag, Uttar Pradesh 
  34. Sanjay Gandhi Biological Park, Bihar
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Apr 3, 2021

Choukimatha, Kittur

Choukimata of Kittur is a Lingayath Mata with its history going back to Rani Chennamma's time. I'd visited the place some time 1999 or 2000. The monastery was well outside Kittur town limit, near Bangalore-Poona highway. I hadn't carried a camera that day, so no pictures of that time.

February 22, 2021

A small work brought me to Kittur. Plan was to meet an acquaintance in the morning. I reached the town well before my acquaintance. Instead of waiting on some street or at a junction, I headed towards the monastery which is amidst farmlands. Like every other town, even Kittur had grown over the years.. what was agricultural land have become plots with commercial buildings. Anyway, Choukimata is still away from the main street, has peaceful ambiance.

The monastery entrance had no gates. I drove in and parked on a side. The place was peaceful but also had a deserted feel, it was devoid of humans. It felt as though the monastery was abandoned. However, I started exploring.. straight ahead are the temples and tombs of holy men. I think the temple with tapering tower is Guru Siddeshwara Devastana, the large grey structure seems to be a tomb and the structure on the left with a sloping roof is Hanuman Devastana.

This group of buildings consists of pontiff's residential quarters, hostels, kitchen, dining hall and stores of the monastery. I was wondering about the condition of the buildings.. why have them been demolished? A local man living close by had come here out of curiosity.. what's a stranger doing here early morning? During the short chat I heard that the Matha is under renovation. The old building housing the kitchen, stores, hostel will be replaced with new a building. Currently the Swamiji and his disciples are residing at another monastery named Kalmath.

This is the Swamiji's residence. Probably this too will be demolished and a new building will be raised. I wish this ancient building is preserved. It looks strong enough, with little repair work and painting the structure will look great.

A quick look at the open hall where Swamiji gives Darshan to disciples. The dark stone pillars and beams are basically Chalukyan design.

The door leads to Swamiji's private quarters. The white artworks tied to the walls are used Basinga. In North Karnataka weddings, the bride and groom are made to wear a head & face gear called Basinga which is usually made of light material like bamboo sticks, paper and thermocol. After the wedding Basinga are left behind at temples or monasteries rather than discarding them.

A closer look at one of the columns mid section. The designs are simple but pleasing.

I was trying to recall and imagine how the building looked before demolition. A closer look at the structure revealed few donors names.

The dining hall was named after Shri Madiwaleshwara, one of the foremost disciples of Basaveshwara. The tablet states that Shri Shri Mahanta Shivayogi laid the foundation stone of the dining hall on 31.10.1965. 


Three rooms of this building have been named after Basavanna, Gangambike and Neelambike. The boards also state the names of people who donated towards the building fund. The amounts donated is Rs.501 which was a considerable amount in 1960s.

One of the rooms is dedicated to another Shivasharana named Devara Dasimayya. A donation of Rs. 501 was received from Inamdar family of Hulikeri. These tablets are witnesses to history. Hoping the monastery staff preserve them at least.

The chief tomb and Sri Siddeshwara Devastana.

The stone clad tomb design has Maratha architecture influence on it. The tombs of Kalmath too are stone clad however they are made of reddish stone.

The Shikhara also serves as a lamp tower. During a certain festival, oil lamps are placed in the niches. The glowing tower on a dark night would be an awesome sight.

To the right of Siddeshwara Devastana is Hanuman Gudi i.e. the rectangular structure with a sloping shade.

Right next to the temple is an open well, its water level was just four or five feet below the ground level. Water looked clear but plastic trash floated on the surface. On the opposite side is a stepped tank which is connected to the well by a circular tunnel. The tank's condition is pathetic. Also plants have grown on the walls for few years. Looks like this place has been neglected for quite some time.

Close to Hanuman temple is a NagaLingaPushpa tree. The specialty of this tree is that the flowers grow mostly on the trunk. Rarely flowers can be seen on the branches. Here's a collage showing a bunch of buds and a flower. The inside of this flower resembles a hooded cobra sheltering a Shivalinga. Hence its name. Its generic name in English is cannon ball tree is based on the tree's spherical pods.

Here's the board planted at the monastery gate. The newer coating has peeled off revealing the older text inside. I hope the renovation work is completed quickly and the place is occupied again. Hoping to see it regain its list charm. 

Pray the social service of Lingayath Mathas continue as before.

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