Kalleshvara Swami Devastana, Bagali - part 2

..continued from Kalleshvara Swami Devastana, Bagali - part 1.

In the western end of the fifty-four pillar hall is this pedestal mounted idol of Basava ~ Nandi facing Shiva Linga the main deity. The idol is realistic in terms of features and proportion. This resembles the Kilari oxen which are popular among farmers. Kilari oxen are usually white colored, tall and slimmer compared to other varieties. Nandi has its customary chain of bell and other jewelry.

The line of sight between Shiva Linga and Nandi passes through the four-pillared Mantapa. The pillars are identical at the first glance but they are unique in terms of  details. The middle portion of the pillar is turned and mirror polished. At some point of time, when this temple wasn't under ASI care, insensitive people have etched their initials on them. Wondering why people go the extent of damaging something that's so beautiful. This temple has many such wounds.

Four types of pillars seen in this picture. On the left hand side, the second and third pillars are the only two of that type. The base and lower part of the pillar have no sharp edges, all edges are well rounded.

Here's a closer view of the pillar with rounded base. I don't remember seeing this type of pillar in any of the other Chalukyan temples.

Here's a collage of pillars- star, square with notches and.. I'm at loss of words to describe them. There are so many varieties that one can do a thesis on pillar designs.

This pillar seems like a gear of some heavy machinery. The troughs and crests are uniformly made. If this is measured using a laser guided tool, the accuracy could be within a millimeter. Besides accuracy, the design has some delicate edges.. the sculptors have worked without any damages. The kind of concentration power they possessed is unimaginable.

The four pillars of the Mantapa are special because of this artwork on four faces of their square section. As you see, the Thorana and the idol within are held by slender connectors. The sculptor has chiseled out the material behind the Thorana. This is extremely delicate work. One wrong tap would've wasted the entire pillar. We have sixteen such sculptures here featuring Shilabalki and legendary characters like Mahishamadini and Ugra Narasimha.

It pains to see this damaged sculpture. The Thorana has been broken and God knows where it is now. It appears that every Thorana is flanked by a pair of pillars in the front view. However when viewed for a side, the corner pillar is common to the adjacent Thorana.

Another view of the Mantapa's pillar featuring two female characters. The temple priest Ajay Adigi strikes a nice pose.

 

The Mantapa's ceiling. Square on the outside and circular inside. The outer circle has eight Kirtimukhas. The next inner circle has four cubical projections spaced at 90°. The cuboids looks like jaws of a four-jaw chuck used in lathes. The inner circles within actually forms a dome. Each of the niche has miniature sculptures. Each of the inside facing square face has a sculpture. This is one of the most complex pieces of sculptures ever seen. The sculptor must be a master of masters of masters to have made this. Wish I has taken pictures from four sides. Often on trips I miss out seeing details due to time constraint. Back home close study of the pictures reveals missed out details.

Lastly I come to the Antarala of the east-facing Garbhagudi. The door frame is another brilliant piece of work. The frame features three pairs of Dwarapalas placed in niches.

The frame has seven layers and Gajalakshmi. Trying to imagine if a single person carved this frame or if was it a team of sculptors. Even to count the number of individual characters will need several hours. What kind of knowledge did the designers/sculptors possessed to produce such artworks. They almost could make stones come alive.

Above the frame is a series of small sculptures depicting the characters from the Devaloka including sages and rishis. The presence of Hoysala logo here shows this is a addition to the existing door frame.

The portion up to Gajalakshmi is Chalukyan and above it is Hoysala work. The sculptors must've replaced an existing piece to fit the Hoysala work. Structures of that time even allowed modification! Present day constructions don't allow such flexibility. Any modification will involve demolition and reconstruction. To cover the scare make-up is applied as if nothing was done.

This is the south-east corner of the main temple. The external walls (backrest of Sukanasi) are well finished. The edges are still sharp even after a millennium. On the right hand side is a smaller temple, I think its dedicated to Suryadeva.

Suryadevi Gudi is a simple box like structure but well built as per the norms of temple construction. Behind the Surya temple is a monolithic pillar. Not sure what its called.. Vijayastamba or Deepstambha. Also behind this temple is an ancient open well.

The stone lined walls of the well. One can walk along the well rim. A flight of steps descends halfway into the well. The projecting slabs were fixed to facilitate drawing water out of the well.

The well diggers had to dig through rocks to reach water source. In the present day its not really common to see wells with water. The well was free from any odor. Thanks to the people who have taken good care of this well, temple and all the plants.

This article will be continue in Kalleshvara Swami Devastana, Bagali - part 3, where we'll see the exterior of the main temple and the smaller temples in this complex.
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Kalleshvara Swamy Devastana, Bagali - part 1

February 16, 2020

Three ancients temples of Davangere district were on the day's itinerary- Neelagunda Bheemeshwara Devastana, Halavagalu Kalleshwara Devastana and Bagali Kalleshwara Swamy Devastana. The first two were done and I arrived at Bagali around 1-00 PM. The temple is situated outside Bagali village, next to a man made water tank which seems to be ancient as well. This is the view of the temple (complex) from the road, its a good 20' below the road. The temple complex looks well maintained, the greenery enhances the ambiance.

The main temple is a L-shaped structure in plan. The temple has two Garbhagudis, one on each of the arms. Surrounding it are four or five smaller temples and a Kalyani. It would be an hour long tour at least.

This would be the pillared hall common to the two shrines. This somehow reminds me of Kakatiya Ramappa temple, north of Warangal. Ramappa lake is huge, its bund is much higher, wider and longer. Also, Ramappa temple is a furlong away from the lake bund. Here's right next to the bund.

The bund slope is covered with a nice green carpet. This place will be awesome in the soft morning light. Happy to see the peaceful place, not many people around. The first thing I wanted was to rest in the cool shade and quench my thirst. Nice to see the Banni tree with a round platform around its trunk.

As I entered the temple premises, the temple caretaker greeted by saying that photography wasn't allowed. What a nice welcome! Anyway, the person was polite and apologetic, unlike the rude man at Bheemeshwara temple. For some reason ASI officers have verbally banned shooting with DSLR. We sat on a stone bench in the shade, had water and requested the caretaker to call his officer. The call with the ASI officer went well, obtained permission to shoot. I thanked the caretaker and started my tour. A board planted at the entrance describes the temple as follows:

Kallesvara Swamy Temple, Bagali
Bagali, medieval Balguli, was an important Agrahara right from the times of Western Chalukyas of Kalyana who were succeeded by the Hoysalas and Vijayanagara.
The Kallesvara temple was constructed during the reign of the western Chalukyan king Ahavamalla in 987 AD, and constructed by Duggimayya. Inscriptionally the main deity is known as Kalidevi. The temple, facing east, is constructed close to the embankment of a huge tank of the village Bagali to its North. The temple on plan consists of a Garbhagriha, an Antarala, a Mahamandapa with an entrance to the south and east, a huge open Sabhamandapa, a shrine for Surya with an Astylar Mukhamandapa built slightly away from the main entrance, all of which are in the east-west orientation. A shrine of Narasimha with a separate Antarala and a passage is added to the north of the Sabhamandapa of the main temple.
The Sabhamandapa is well known for its fifty four ornate pillars supporting the highly decorative ceiling. Of these twenty four pillars are located over the Jagati provided with Kakshasana.
The temple is also known for its intrinsically carved doorways with multiple door jambs. The eastern end of the Sabhamandapa accommodates an ornate well executed couchant bull.
There are eight subshrines built around the main temple. Excellent sculptures of late Chalukyan style are kept in the Mahamandapa of the temple and they include Siva, Umamahesvara, Ganesa, Karttikeya, Surya, Anantasayana, Sarasvati and Mahishamardini.
There are as many as thirty six inscriptions in the temple assignable to the tenth-eleventh century A.D. which record donations to the God Kalideva and Narasimha.

While one arm of the L-shaped temple is east-facing, the other one is south-facing. The smaller temples around the main temple are also east facing except one north-facing temple. On the immediate right is the north facing temple dedicated to Veerabhadra Swamy, an avatar of Shiva. This is the right hand side of the main temple, the pillared structure at the end seems to be a Mantapa, to be used as a lodge for travelers.

On the left hand side of the main temple are two or three open Mantapas and three bare-walled temples. The two cuboid structures with domes seemed to be restored recently.

The Mantapa in the middle has a door frame but no walls. Looks like construction work was abandoned for some reason. Opposite the door the floor has a circular stage normally meant for dancing.

A four pillared Mantapa. Probably this was a shrine as well. Presently the deity must be kept at some museum.

Besides the four-pillared there's a 20-pillared Mantapa adjoining a well built temple. Going by the build of these two Mantapa which is quite primitive, they seem to be much older than the main temple. The pillars are rough cut, purely purpose made, no attention to aesthetics. However, they are well built. One can see many such Mantapa at Jyotirlinga temple complex, Aihole.

Now we'll enter the main temple starting from the south-facing Garbhagudi side. The temple has Sukanasi (raised seating platform with backrest) all round the temple. The workmanship is excellent.. every feature of the temple exudes quality stone-work.

This is the south-facing Garbhagudi. Its Antarala has a mesh wall with a pair of Dwarapala, its door frame is simple but elegant. The pillar in the foreground is a classic one that can be found in Chalukyan temple. The flower vase on the pillar is some that can be seen in Adil Shahi buildings at Bijapur. Above the vase's mouth is a circle with tongues of flame coming out. Not sure if it represents Sun.

The other side of the pillar. All four faces of the square section have vases. The backrest's profile can be seen. Every surface and edge is precisely sculpted so that it fits in perfectly. These sculptors did not use laser guided equipment to mark/measure but whatever technology they employed was much more advanced.

View of the interior from the outside. The column seen here a complex one both in terms of design and sculpting it. The brilliant minds of ancient times could imagine designs that were functionally fit, aesthetically pleasing and viable for production. Probably what we see as complex must've been simple for them.

This hall is said to have fifty-four pillars, surely each pillar would be unique but the basic form can be categorized into seven to eight groups. In this picture five types are seen clearly.

Every pillar is a vertical assembly of four sections. The base, the column and self-aligning pair which connects the column to the beams. Wonder how the builders achieved the perfect matching levels of all pillars. The foundation has to be well set to achieve the uniform level.

The Sukhanasi platform is supported by miniature pillars and the wall is decorated with four petaled flowers. This flower is a classic item in Chalukyan temples. The size varies with the context. This is probably the largest I've seen. I'm wondering why the Sukanasi is not straight, what was the need for the bend, thereby adding three sides. Probably the north-south part was added at a later point.

Here we can see pillars with circular, square and octagonal bases.

This is Shri. Ajay Adigi, the temple priest. He is also a bus conductor by profession. He carries out his priestly duty on rotation basis with other priests. Happy to see young people carry forward our traditions.

This is the point where the two arms of this temple meet in a right angle. The door frame seen in the distance leads to the east-facing Garbhagudi. The Mantapa I'm standing in is supported by four pillars which are different compared to the rest. The bottom part of the pillar has special layer held by slender cylindrical connectors. The special sculptures feature legendary characters.

This tour will continue next weekend.. Kalleshvara Swamy Devastana, Bagali - part 2.
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what to see in Hampae

Once a capital city of one of the celebrated kingdoms in South India, Hampae was said to be the second largest city in the world when Vijayanagara kingdom was at its zenith. Hamape existed much before Vijayanagara, its history goes back to Hindu legends and prehistoric times. Situated in a hilly and rocky terrain with a river flowing in the valleys, this place was inhabited during Stone-Age. Rock paintings have been discovered in the caves and natural shelters on both sides of the river. Hampae was a pilgrim center known as Pampakshetra derived from Pampa, another name of the goddess Parvati. The name Pampasketra is mentioned in the Hindu legend Ramayana. As per the legend, Rama and Lakshmana meet Hanuman and Sugreeva at Pampaskhetra during their search for Sita. The river flowing close to the shrine was called Papmpa.

Hampae was once part of the Maurya kingdom, the claim which is based on the evidence of Ashokan edicts (around 200 BC) found in the vicinity. Also the ancient Virupaksha Devastana here has connections to Adi Shankaracharya the VIII Century philosopher. The name Pampapura is mentioned in Badami Chalukyan inscriptions dated between VI and VIII Centry CE. Then comes the  Hoysala who built temples for Durga, Hampadevi and Shiva according to an inscription of 1199 CE. Hampae was called as Virupakshapattana, Vijaya Virupakshapura in honour of Virupaksha Devastana. Hoysala reign ended early XIV Century after its defeat by the armies of Alauddin Khalji. Hampae also had connections with Jaina Dharma. In the XIV Century CE two Jain shrines Hemkut-Chakrakut existed.

In 1336 CE, Hakka and Bukka under the guidance of Vidyaranya (head of Sringeri Sharada Pihta) founded Vijayanagara kingdom from Kampili. The kingdom ruled by one successful king after another grew into an empire. The magnificent structures of Vijayanagara were built by some of the best artisans of that time. The city boasted a canal system which was fed by Tungabhadra (Pampa) river. The empire's most renowned king is Krishnadevraya during whose time (1509 - 1529 CE) the five neighboring Muslim kingdoms were kept under check. In 1565 CE, during the rule of Aliya Rama Raya, the five kingdoms launched an united attack Vijayanagara. The battle of Talikota dealt the final blow, Vijayanagara army was routed. The defeated armies couldn't do much to stop the Muslim armies who plundered the kingdom, particularly Hampi which was reduced to ruins and eventually deserted. Few decades later, an Italian merchant named Cesare Federici visited the ruins and described it as "the citie of Bezeneger is not altogether destroyed, yet the houses stand still, but emptie, and there is dwelling in them nothing, as is reported, but Tygres and other wild beasts." The glorious Hampae had become Haal-Hampae (haal means ruined in Kannada). Haal-Hampae was forgotten for the next three centuries!

In 1865, British explorer Alexander Greenlaw visited Haal-Hampae and photographed structures that were standing. The collection of photographs were kept private and finally made public only in 1980. It looks like Hampae became Hampi on European tongues. Probably towards the end of XIX Century Archaeological Survey of India took interest in the site and took steps to protect and preserve the ruins. In 1986 Hampi was declared a World Heritage Site.

Today, Hampi is a sprawling collection of standalone temples & temple complexes, water tanks & canals, mantapas, fortification structures & gateways, military barracks, royal enclosures, stables, market places, memorials, water structures, and natural hills & rock formations spread over an area of 41 square kilometers. There's a saying in Kannada which goes like this: one with good eye-sight must see Kanakagiri, and those who can walk must see Hampi. Its true, to really see the monuments of Hampi, one must walk a lot, and be willing to spend a week here.

Stone chariot | Nandi in river Tungabhadra
gateway on Hemakuta | Lotus Mahal

Lakshmi Narasimha | Chandrashekar Devastana
temple on Hemakuta | stepped well

temple near Varaha Devastana | Matunga Betta
hunting scenes at Maha Navami Dibba | Markhandeya, Shiva and Yama

A list of monuments of Hampi one could see and feel:

1. Sasivekalu Ganesha - the eight feet tall idol of Ganesh situated next to Henakuta hill. The gateway to Hemakuta hill is approachable from Sasivekalu Ganesha enclosure.
2. Kadlekalu Ganesha - this fifteen feet tall idol of Ganesha is said to be one of the biggest in India. This shrine is five minutes walk from Sasivekalu Ganesha. 
3. Gateway to Hemakuta Gudda - This is a two-storey Mantapa on the highest point of Hemakuta hill. A flight of steps within the Sasivekalu Ganesha enclosure leads to the gateway. From this point one can see almost all the temples situated on this hill.
4. Shrines on Hemakuta Gudda - The hills gives a great view on the northern and western sides. People flock here in the evenings for a view of the sunset. There are a dozen shrines on Hemakuta hill. Kadalekalu Ganesha, Sasivekalu Ganesha, Moola Virupaksha, Anjaneya, Gayatri Peeta to name a few. Also there are open shrines of Linga and Rama-Anjaneya carved on the hill itself.
5. Virupaksha Devastana - this is the oldest and the most important temple of Hampi. Situated between Hemakuta hill and Tungabhadra, the temple complex has a Pushkarni and two Gopuras, facing and east. The eastern Gopura is a colossal structure of 160 feet while the northern Gopura is roughly 80 feet. One of the star attractions of this complex is the pinhole camera effect from an opening in the Gopura, inverted shadow can be seen on one of the walls inside the complex.
6. Manmatha Honda, shrines and bathing ghat - Manmatha Honda is the Pushkarni (stepped water tank) of Virupaksha temple. Besides the tank is bathing ghat which descends into Tungabhadra river. There are a number of shrines scattered around tank. 
7. Kottur Swami Matha - This monastery must be the branch of Basaveshwara monastery in Kotturu, a popular pilgrim center of central Karnataka.
8. Hampi Bazaar - The street in front of Virupaksha Devastana which is ¾ kilometre long was the main Bazaar of ancient Hampi. At the end of the street is a monolith idol of Nandi. The stone structures flanking the street were the shops of bygone times. Present day Hampi has a small market which is more like a hippy market.  
9. Nandi Mantapa - This is the eastern end of Hampi Bazaar. The Nandi idol is approximately 11 feet tall and it is sheltered in a 20 feet tall Mantapa. Besides the Mantapa are two paths, one leads to Chakratheerta and the other leads to Matugna Betta and Achyuthraya Devastana.
10. Matunga Gudda and Veerabhadra Devastana - This is the tallest hill of Hampi. A rough path goes up the hill to Veerabhadra temple at the summit. From this hill one can see Hampi in one go. After descending the hill, tourists can either head towards Achyutaraya Devastana or towards Krishna Devastana and Bazaar. 
11. Venkateshwara Devastana - This temple is little off Matunga Betta-Krishna temple path, situated amidst banana plantations. The temple's deity seems to be carved on a boulder which seems to its natural position.
12. Saraswati Devastana 1 - This temple is in a ruinous state but worth seeing it since the trek on this path is interesting. This is situated approximately 900 meters west of Venkateshwara Devastana and 300m south of Krishna Devastana.
13. Krishna Devastana and Bazaar - Krishna temple is said to be built in 1513 AD after the conquest of Udayagiri (present day Odisha). The temple's chief deity was Balakrishna. Adjoining the temple is Krishna Bazaar, one of the ancient markets. There's a large Pushkarni next to the market. The path connecting Matunga Betta and Krishna Bazaar is an interesting one, it passes by banana plantation where one can see the ancient canals systems still in use. At the beginning of the path is Durga shrine. 
14. Badavi Linga - This monolith Shivalinga measuring 3 meters in height is the largest in Hampi. The temple is partly below ground and a canal passes through it, hence the Linga is always standing in water. The temple roof is partly open to allow sunlight and cross ventilation.
15. Lakshmi Narasimha - This is one of the best works of sculpture in Hampi. The 6.7 meters tall idol of sitting Narasimha was completed in 1528 CE i.e. during Krishnadevaraya's reign. The idol was badly damaged when Hampi was ransacked by enemy armies. Despite the damages, the idol is worth a visit. The best time to see this idol is early morning when the sun is facing the idol.
16. Chandikeswara Devastana - This shrine is dedicated to Vishnu even though the name indicated Shiva. This temple is known for its pillared hall which is visible from the road itself. Just behind this temple is a 700 pillared hall which is worth a visit.
17. Anjaneya Devastana - This is a small temple dedicated to Anajaneya. The idol is carved over a monolith block.
18. Uddana Veerabhadra Devastana - This is a small temple but religiously important shrine associated to Veerabhadra. The deity of this temple is a 3.6 meter tall monolithic idol of Uddana Veerabhadra. The temple's Deepa-Stambha is a noteworthy monument. Also a Sati stone is an important relic from this shrine.
19. Akka-Tangi Kallugalu (Sister Stones) - This is a natural formation of two massive boulders leaning on each other forming an inverted V shaped arch. The stones seem to be embracing each other hence the name. One of the stones broke and collapsed in 2011, yet tourists stop by for a quick look.
20. Prasanna Virupaksha Devastana - This temple was built in the early years of Vijayanagara. Somehow the temple was hidden buried in ground for nearly 400 years before its discover in 1980. The temple complex is below the surrounding land and usually filled with water. Only during the dry months, the temple courtyard is dry but the sanctum is always filled with water.
21.  Watch tower - this is an interesting building situated next to the ruins of Vira Harihara palace. The stone-mortar construction has somehow survived the ravages of time and pretty well preserved. One of the best ways to see this part of Hampi is to climb on to the platform and get an elevated 360° view.
22. Palace of Vira Harihara - like all other palaces ruins in Vijayanagara, only the foundation and base platform remains. The base has three levels and connected with balustraded steps. This palace enclosure is called as Dainik enclosure.
23. Mohammaden quarters and mosque - These are part of Vira Harihara palace complex. The mosque is a stone and mortar structure. Its columns and arches are well preserved, it has a pleasant look.
24. Band tower - This is an artistic looking octagonal structure comprising of two floors, graceful arches and a pyramidal stepped crown. Though its called as band stand, archaeologists say its a watch tower.
25. Mint - A group of buildings behind the mosque has been identified as Vijayanagara mint.
26. Noblemen's Quarters - Seemingly this was a locality of noblemen's residences. This group of ruins is situated opposite the watch tower and Veera Harihara palace. 
27. Mylara Lingeshwara shrine - this is an open shrine situated on a rocky outcrop close to noblemen's quarters. The deity is carved on a boulder which seems to be at its natural position. 
28. Granaries - These are two circular walls 40 feet in diameter are said to the remains of granaries. Ancient granaries usually were circular and come shaped, like the two remaining at Badami fort. There should many more granaries hidden all over Hampi.
29. Hazra Rama Devastana - This is a highly ornate temple dedicated to Vishnu in his aspects as Rama. The temple's four pillars in the main hall are magnificent creations. The is s ornate that its enclosure's walls are also covered with layers of images depicting elephants, horses, human armies and military forces, festival processions and other characters. Opposite this temple is Paan-Supari Bazaar and in the vicinity is Zenana Enclosure.
30. Mahadeva Devastana - This is a small temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. The temple is well preserved and has a small idol of Nandi. This shrine is situated 170 meters north of the granaries.
31. Archaeological Museum - A collection of artifacts from Hampi.
32. Zenana enclosure - This is a high walled enclosure of irregular shape in plan. The monuments within this space are the royal treasury, ruins of a palace, a water tank, Lotus Mahal and ornate watch towers similar to the 'Band Stand' standing at the enclosure's corners. The Lotus Mahal is one of the most attractive stone and mortar structure of Hampi.
33. Elephant stables - In the immediate neighborhood of Zenana enclosure is the big building with multiple domes and huge arches built specifically to house the royal elephants and their caretakers. There are individual stables interconnected with man-sized passages. Adjoining the stables are the Guards quarters.
34. Guards quarter - This building was strategically located to provide security for Zenana enclosure and royal treasury. The single storey structure built is built on a high platform. Inside it has a courtyard and a long open hall.
35. Tenali Rama pavilion - This pavilion is situated on a rocky outcrop, 250 meters northwest of Guard's quarter. The structure is quite plain in looks. However, this being associated to a legendary character, the building evokes curiosity.
36. Ganesha Devastana - This seems to be a temple whose deity is carved on a boulder. The shrine is situated 350 meters north of Tenali Rama pavilion.
37. Veerabhadra Devastana - The deity of this temple is a beautiful image of four armed Veerabhadreshwara, probably 7 feet tall. The shrine itself is situated on a rocky outcrop. The temples are small but neat assembly of blocks. Reaching this location will need some effort since it is isolated. 600m southeast of here is Sriganrada Hebbagilu.
38. Sringarada Hebbagilu - The name means decorated gateway. This is one of the gateways to the core of Hampi where the royal and noble resided. Such a gateway had to be ornate, befitting to welcome the noble. 420 meters west of  here is elephant stables and on the way are two monuments- Vishnu and Parshwanatha temples.
39. Vishnu temple -  Once a grand temple is ruins today. The stone structure is more or less intact but the brick & mortar construction is crumbling. 
40. Parshwanatha Devastana - The temple's doorway has a small Jaina image. The temple doesn;t seem to have any deity at present.
41. Ranga Devastana - Also called as the Madhwa Devastana, this temple has been restored in recent times. A large idol of Hamuman is kept in the Sabha Mantapa of this temple. As per an inscription found here this temple was built in 1545 CE.
42. Yellamma Devastana - One of the temples where rituals performed to this day. It is said that Vijayanagara kings worshiped the much feared Yellamma and hence this shrine received royal patronage. Besides this temple is a poorly kept Pushkarni.
43. Paan-Supari Bazaar - Right opposite Hazara Rama Devastana is this group of temples and Mantapa. The name Pan Supari Bazaar was found in an inscription of Devaraya II (1424 - 1426 CE) which confirms this was a market place for betel nut, leaves and other ingredients required for the preparation of paan. So, there could be a possible link between the present day betel tree plantation and the ancient ones. 
44. Monolith stone trough - Of all the monuments here, this is one marvelous piece. The trough made of single block is approximately 42 feet long, 2 feet wide and 1½ feet deep. It can hold around 2000 liters. The trough was meant for horses and bullocks which did the hard work of transporting their masters. One has to appreciate the city engineers for such considerations.
45. Krishnadevaraya palace ruins - The ruins between the secret underground chamber and Pushkarni (stepped tank) said to be the remains of Krishnadevaraya's palace. Like most other buildings, this palace had a stone & mortar base while the super structure was wooden. 
46. Durbar hall - This was the hall where the king used to hear grievances and give audience to subjects. The hall was a two storeyed structure, the base was stone & mortar and the super structure was made of wooden beans, columns and planks. The palace was burnt down when Vijayanagara was ransacked.
47. Stone pillars and turned discs - These are close to the northwestern entrance of the royal enclosure, between the road and wall. Going by the circular marks on the flat stone, it seems to be a stone turning device like a milling machine.
48. Monolith doors - Close to the northeastern entrance of the royal enclosure is a pair of ornate  monolith doors, they are mirror images of each other and designed to fit into one door frame but for some reason remained unused. 
49. Mahanavami Dibba - This is a 24 feet high three tiered pyramidal platform used for important ceremonies of the royal family. This is situated at the north eastern corner of the royal enclosure.
50. Stepped tank and Public bath - Within the royal enclosure, the stepped tank is the most eye pleasing monument. This tank was hidden for few centuries before its discovery in 1980. Stone aqueducts supplied water to this tank. It is said that this tank was used for Theppotsaava. A stones throw is another water tank which is said to be the public bath.
51. King's secret chamber - This underground structure is said to be a place for secret discussions or a safe vault for valuables or confidential documents. The monuments walls have survived but the roof is missing.
52. Water pavilion - An octagonal shaped structure with arched openings situated right besides Hampi-Kamalapur road on the left-hand side half a kilometer before the Queen's bath house. As the label says this seems to be a water house made for public utility.
53. Bhojanashala - At this is a 2 feet wide stone lined canal flanked by stones slabs with seven circular pits. The central circle is one foot in diameter and flanked by three pits of 3 inches diameter. These are stone plates just like the steel lunch plates available today. This is said to be common dining area for the soldiers serving in the nearby royal enclosure. Probably a chapra (shelter of woven coconut leaves held up by wooden poles) was setup back then. This spot is diagonally opposite the water pavilion, very close to the main road.
54. Queen's bath house - This is a building with one small entrance, a central pool, an aisle around the pool with rooms on the sides. The ceiling over the aisle has a number of ornate domes. On the exterior, a canal runs around the perimeter which acted like a moat and also supplied water to the pool inside.
55. Chandrashekhar Devastana - A temple dedicated to Shiva close to the Queen's bath and Octagonal water pavilion. The temple is quite big, has a pillared Mukhamantapa and lot of open space between it and the compound walls. The entrance to this enclosure is through a large gateway with a Gopura.
56. Octagonal water pavilion - This is an octagon shaped open hall with a central pool. The aisle around the pool has a roof supported by granite pillars while the pool itself is open to the sky. This pool was probably meant for men. Besides this monument are ruins of two residences and another temple dedicated to Saraswati.
57. Saraswati Devastana 2 - A northwest facing temple with three entrances situated on a rocky mound opposite the Octagonal water pavilion. The temple is simple but an elegant looking structure.
58. Archaeological Museum, Kamalapur - One must visit this museum to see the scale model of Hampi's topography with the monuments located in it. Then there are three other sections- 1. sculptures of Hampi, 2. brass inscriptions, coins, tools, arms and other objects from the Vijayanagara years and 4. prehistoric pottery, hero stones and Sati stones. The museum is open between 10 AM and 5 PM and remains closed on Fridays.
59. Pattabhirama Devastana and Lokapavani - This is one of the largest and well preserved temples of VIjayanagara. The temple is not ornate as such but the massive Yali pillars are worth seeing. Within the temple walls are shrines dedicated to Garuda and Devi. The temple's Pushkarni called Lokapavani is situated 200 meters away, on the road leading to the domed gateway. 
60. Domed gateway - This is the only well preserved gateway to the royal enclosure. Also this is unique since the architecture is Islamic. The gateway comprises of four massive columns supporting the dome above. The columns are connected by graceful arches. This is situated 600 meters north of Pattabhirama temple. The other gateway in the vicinity is Bhima's gateway.
61. Bheemana Hebbagilu - Compared to other gateways, this is a rather primitive looking structure. The arch is formed by a stack of rough cut granite slabs. One of the walls here has an image of Draupadi watching Bheema and Duryodhana engaged in a fight. This gateway is situated off Kamalapur-Kampli road, the approach road is right next to Ganagitti temple.
62. Ganagitti Devastana - A fairly simple looking Jain temple situated next to Kamalapur-Kampli road.
63. Malayavanta Gudda - This is one of the most beautiful places of Hampi. On this rocky hill are temples dedicated to Prasanna Virupaksha, Malayavanta Rabhunataha and Veeranjaneya. The temple complex is enclosed in stones walls and has a gateway with a Gopura. The shrine is well preserved. Also, there's a series of Shivalingas and Nandis carved on the rock itself. This elevated place is a favorite to watch sunrises and sunsets. This hill is situated 2.8 kms on Kamalapur-Kampli road.
64. Talarigatte gate - a gateway to the inner core on the eastern side. This is situated on the road which goes to Vittala Devastana complex.
65. Gejjala Mantapa - This is a gorgeous looking pillared hall with a crown of brick & mortar. It is open on all four sides. The structure has fourteen pillars and a central platform. Usually this type of Mantapas were used for special occasions like wedding, naming, anniversary or birthday celebrations. This is situated next to the foot path leading to Vittala Devastana.
66. Kudure Gombe Mantapa - A pillared hall with six highly ornate prancing horse columns and curved canopy dominating the facade. This hall is open on its northern side and has walls on the other three sides. This is situated a minute's walk from Gejjala Mantapa.
67. Vittala Bazaar and Lokapavani - One of the ancient market places of Hampi. The name is derived from the proximity to Vittala Devastana. Close to the market place is a Pushkarni, stepped water tanks for public use.
68. Shiva Devastana and Mantapa - At the end of Vittala Bazaar street is a temple which of considerable size enclosed in walls and has a gateway with a Gopura. Besides the temple is a standalone Mantapa.
69. Vittala Devastana - This temple complex is known for its size, beauty and features. Within the enclosure is the famed stone chariot, Kalyana Mantapa, the main temple's Maha Mantapa, Hanuman shrine and Devi shrine. The enclosure has two gateways, both have Gopura but partly collapsed. Also inside the complex is a Frangipani tree which creates a special feel to the courtyard. The Maha Mantapa's most notable feature is its musical pillars. When the pillars produce different tunes when tapped with fingers. However, tourists are not allowed inside the Maha Mantapa after part of the roof collapsed.
70. Nammalvar Devastana - To the south of Vittala complex is this temple dedicated to Nammalvar, one of the twelve Alwar saints of Tamil Nadu who are known for their affiliation to the Vaishnava tradition.
71. Inscribed Vishnu Devastana - This is a small temple which gets its name from the inscriptions found on its outer walls. It is said that this temple was originally dedicated to Tirumangai Alvar, the last of the twelve Alvar saints.
72. King's balance, two storey gateway and temples in its vicinity - The Kannada word for this is monument is Arasana Tulabara ~ king's balance. A weighing balance was suspended from the beam. During special occasions like a birthday or wedding anniversary, the royal family members would donate food grains or wealth in the form of gold or silver equal to their body weight. In the vicinity of the balance is the two storey Mantapa which happens to be the other entrance for the groups of temples here.
73. Vysaraya Matha - This group of temples within a tight enclosure is said to be the monastery of the renowned Madhwa saint Vysaraja or Vyasatheerta. Since there's a temple of Narasimha, this is also called as Narasimha Devastana. This is situated on a rocky slope close to the King;s balance.
74. Purandara Dasara Mantapa - The riverside pillared hall is named after the Kannada poet-ascetic Purandaradasa, a contemporary of Vysatheerta, because he spent his final years in this Mantapa. In comparison to other Mantapas, this one is made of heavy columns and beams so that it can withstand the force of flowing water.
75. Ancient bridge - Ruins of the bridge are visible from Prandaradasa Mantapa. The bridge cuts across a rocky island in Tungabhadra. One can see pillars standing close to the banks. The pillars in between are missing but the holes where the columns stood are visible.
76. Hanumantha Devastana and Raghunanda Theertamoola - 
77. Sugreeva's cave - A group of natural boulders leaning on each other forming a cavern is believed to be Sugreeva's residence. This spot is close to Vysatheerta Matha. The heavily foot path passing by connects Vittala temple complex and Achyuthraya temple via Varaha temple and courtesan street.
78. Anantasayana Shrine - This is an image of reclining Vishnu carved on a boulder in the boulder-heap close to Chakratheerta. Close to this are riverside Mantapas and other shrines as well. 
79. Kotilinga rock shrine -  This is an open air shrine of a large number of Shivalinga carved on a boulder close to Chakratheerta.
80. Chandramouleshwara Devastana - This temple is situated on the deserted Rishimukha island. This monument is seldom visited by tourists because of the remote location.
81. Nava Brindavana - This too is situated on an island between Hampi and Anegondi. As the name indicates, this is an enclosure where the nine Madhwa saints' tombs are. When the river is almost dry, this island can be reached by foot, else a boat ride is the only option.
82. Varaha Devastana - This Saivate shrine is known as Varaha temple because of the Varaha emblem at the eastern entrance. This temple stands at the junction of three paths- 1. path going to Kodandarama Devastana, 2. courtesan street and 3. path going towards Vittala temple complex. 
83. Kondanda Rama Devastana - This is the temple facing Chakratheerta. The temple deities are idols of Lakshmana, Rama and Sita carved on a huge boulder. The temple's facade consists of huge simple looking columns. This temple marks the place where Rama crowned Sugreeva as the king of Kishkinda.
84. Yantroddhara Hanuman Devastana - This shrine is neatly tucked into the rock formations close to Kodandarama. The deity of this temple is an image of sitting Hanuman at the centre of a Hexagram inside a circle. The image carries a deep meaning, its legend is connected to Madhwacharya. This shrine is considered highly sacred and powerful. 
85. Chakratheerta - Place where Tungabhadra takes a ninety degree turn and flows northwards. At the bend the river is wide and a large pool is formed. Usually this spot has water throughout the year. Tourists take coracle ride for fun or to crossover to Rishimukha island. Considered as a sacred spot, there are a number of shrines around Chakratheerta. 
86. Courtesan street and Pushkarni - this is yet another market places of Hampi. The 350 meters long street is flanked by pillared halls, it starts at Varaha temple and ends at Achyutraya temple. At the middle, on the western side is a Pushkarni with a Mantapa at the center.
87. Achyutraya Devastana - This north-facing temple complex is situated at the foot of Matanga hillIt was  known as Tiruvengalanatha Devastana according to inscriptions. This temple was built by Krishnadevaraya's younger brother Achutaraya, hence the name but the temple is dedicated to Venkateshwara.

In my opinion, for one to see all the places listed here, it would require a complete week at Hampi, touring daily from sunrise to sunset. To keep things efficient a group of three or four works well. Larger the group, things tend to slow down. Riding around bicycles or bikes will be lot more fun and convenient than a car. However, there's a tendency to hit a saturation point by intense touring. So may be one can make two trips, few months apart.

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Chandrashekhara Devastana, Hampi

This is the first temple one gets to see if Hampi tour is started from Kamalapur side. The temple stands in open space. The temple is enclosed in a quadrangle with a gateway with a Gopura on the eastern side. The enclosure itself has enough open space around it. As you see the temple is well preserved, no signs of major restoration work, so this must be the original condition. The temple has four sections- Mukhamantapa, Sabhamantapa, one east-facing Garbhagriha and one south-facing Garbhgriha. Since there are two sanctums, this is a Dwikutachala. The Mukhamantapa is a 24-pillar open hall.

Side view of the Mukhamantapa. Structural build quality is good, simple aesthetics, functional aspect was the priority for this temple builder. Except four pillars, the other twenty pillars are devoid of images of animals, birds, humans and imaginary creatures normally seen in Vijayanagara temples and Mantapas.

We'll continue looking at the southern side of the temple. The Sabhamantapa has two doors, the main one being the eastern and the one seen here is the side entrance. I have no idea what deities occupied the Garbhagriha here. However, going by the name, this was a Shiva temple, so most likely a Linga was present. The other deity must be Parvati. With two doors for this temple, people would've entered through the main door, had darshan of the deities and exited through the side door. The other aspect is cross ventilation, since there are no other openings like ventilators or windows.

The rear portion. So far all the walls seen are plain but follows the temple building norms i.e. the different layers in the walls. In this picture, we get a glimpse of the enclosure wall. That's typical Vijayanagara style.. brick core sandwiched in granite blocks and capped with granite slabs. The temple Shikhara, a brick and mortar pyramid, is almost intact, the plaster is missing though.

On the south-western corner of the enclosure is a four-pillared mantapa built on a platform. This is an incomplete structure. The platform corner stone has a shallow square pit - that's where a column would've been positioned. So this would have been a eight or twelve pillared mantapa. Probably a Kalyana Mantapa.

A close look at the damaged wall. This could've happened naturally or some treasure hunters might have pried it open.

The south-facing Garbhagriha exterior and Shikhara. Even the gutter protrusion looks intact. Actually this is a fine looking structure. Neat and tidy, no frills. The Mukhamantapa height is ideal for people to sit on it without having to enter the hall.

A view of the hall. The central four pillars have images on their faces. On the pillars and wall surfaces is remnant of white paint, could be lime, not sure if its recent or ancient. There are red lines on the white layer. Most likely this is ancient paint.

The main entrance has decoration. The heavy columns flanking the vestibule has floral murals. The door frame is three staged and has a pair of Dwarapalas. The columns in the foreground are also ornate, the front faces carry images of a sage and a well built man who could be a warrior. For some reason the door threshold is broken, not really a common occurrence.

Finally we come to the temple Mahadwara and 3-level Gopura. Talking about Gopuras, wondering when the practice started. Looking back to Chalukyan times, they did not build Gopuras, they were Shikhara experts. Same with Kadambas. The practice seem to have started either by Hoysalas or Vijayanagara.

The last picture here was shot in Aug-2017. Pushpa and I stopped to see Anegundi and Hampi on the way from Hyderabad to Dharwad. The exterior wall is also damaged, looks like treasure hunters' work again.

Behind the temple is the Queen's bath house and two minutes walks to the right of this temple, are two monuments- Sarswati Devastana and Octagonal water pavilion. Behind the pavilion are ruins of ancient residences, possibly of noblemen since this space is immediate neighborhood of the royal enclosure.
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