Oct 10, 2020

Keladi Rameshwara Devastana - part-1

February 22, 2020
The drive between Banavasi and Keladi was scenic with green forests, hills, ponds and green tunnels. Roads were in good condition, journey was comfortable. We reached Keladi by 12-30 pm. The temple is situated right next to the main road, close to the government school, can be located easily. Sun was beating down and any car parked in open would be an oven in 15 minutes. Luckily the temple's chariot shed was open and vacant. Parked the car inside. Now I can go around the temple peacefully.

A flight of steps takes you up the mound on which the temple is situated. The enclosure has two separate structures but three shrines, all are east-facing. The larger structure is the main temple is a merger of Rameshwara Devastana and Veerabhadreshwara Devastana. The smaller structure houses Parvati Aalaya. The main temple is a built in stone but the smaller structure is built of stone, brick & mortar and painted. The below picture is of the main temple. It has four entrances, two in the front and two on the sides.

This temple is a protected monument. A board planted by ASI reads as follows:
Rameswara Temple, Keladi
Keladi was the first capital of the illustrious Keladi Nayakas. The capital was subsequently shifted to Ikkeri under Chandrappa Nayaka (AD 1499-1544) and to Bidanur in AD 1639 by Virabhadra Nayaka (AD 1629-1645).
The temple of Ramesvara, is of medium size constructed out of greenish grey schist. It is built in sixteenth century in mixed Hoysala and Dravida styles in east-west orientation, It has a small Garbhagriha with its own Pradakshina, a small Mahamandapa (Navaranga) and a Mukhamandapa, The Mahamandapa has relief sculptures or devotees at east and western ends.
Similarly built is the Virabhadra temple next to it which has a projected porch. Both the Ramesvara and Virabhadra temples have a common Mukhamandapa with Jagati. One of the ceilings of Virabhadra temple has a mythical twin-headed bird Gandabherunda. The shrines are enclosed by a tile-roofed cloister supported by wooden pillar.


Lets go around the temples and see the exterior. All round the enclosure is the tiled roof, its one long open hall where visitors can rest or perform rituals. The Dhwajastambha seen here is a monolithic pillar. It is situated opposite Veera Bhadreshwara shrine.

The temple's side entrance. The external walls have relief works depicting temple Shikhara and miniature columns. The sculpturing work are simple but well done.

Afternoon Pooja was being done. Its customary to hold an umbrella over the deity. The man in white carrying an oil lamp is one of many assistants.

A group of five priests were going around the temples carrying a deity and offerings. A group of musicians accompanied the priests, in fact the musicians took the lead while going the temple.

This is the rear side of the main temple. The Garbhagriha parts of the buildings are separate, no common wall. The Shikharas are brick & mortar constructions. The side and rear walls are plain except for one sculpture.

This is the sculpture behind Veera Bhadreshwara temple. The central image is an imaginary creature, its extraordinary even when compared with other imaginary creatures seen in Hindu temples. This is hybrid beast in humanoid posture. Lion's head on a fish's body. (body has scales, hence fish). Its legs are elephant legs and arms are elephant trunks. The weirdest creature ever seen. According to my friend Sudhin this creature is called Yali, Quoting Sudhin's description here "Its an imaginary animal. Believed as more powerful than lion. Strength as elephant, can fly as bird, run as horse and lions majesty." All in one. Having checked the page on Wikipedia, this creature is not Yali. Accompanying this creature are four women. Flanking the central image are eight individual images depicting humans in various postures. Can't identify the characters.

Moving on to Parvati Aalaya. The Garbhagrihs walls are made of stone, only its Mukhamantapa is brick & mortar construction. Also it has a tile roof and no Shikhara. Its three doorways are all arched. The rear wall has a single sculpture in the center.

I guess this is Shiva-Parvati but I'm not sure. Instead of Trishula there's an axe with spearhead. Also the presence of two birds is unusual for Shiva's images. However, since this is Parvati's shrine, it has to be Shiva-Parvati.

This is the interior of Parvati Aalaya. Behind the mesh work is the Garbhgriha. The two dark colored objects on either sides look like dumb-bells. This hall seems to be an extension of the main temple.

The cream colored temple is Parvati Aalaya, Its looks reminds me of temples of Goa and coastal Karnataka. The stone building with steps is Rameshwara Devastana.

This is Rameshwara Devasthana Navaranga. The columns look heavy and solid, Vijayanagara architecture.

View of Veera Bhadreshwara Navaranga. The floor is four or five steps lower than Rameshwara Devasthana. This Navaranga is has more open space and seating platforms of the sides.

Veera Bhadreshwara Garbhagriha entrance. On either sides, little away from the door, are two life size statues of two theriocephalic (human body with animal's head) creatures- 1. human body with lion head and 2. human body with goat head. The doorway itself is manned by a pair of Dwarapalas.

A closer look at the theriocephalic creatures- the one with goat's head is Naigamesha, And the one with lion's head is Narasimha?

The narrow space between two rows across the length of Navaranga. The walls and columns are mostly covered Shikharas and Stamnhas.

This article will continue in the following post- Keladi Rameshwara Devastana - part-2.
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