Mar 29, 2025

Pattabhirama Devastana, Hampi

Dec 9th 2025. Our day started early, Sridhar and I drove from Dharwad to Hampi with a breakfast stop between Gadag and Koppal. A few kilometers after Hampi we stopped briefly to check out Agasi and Kuparama Vatika, the ancient gateway of Hampi and the octagonal shaped well. Then we stopped at  Anantashayana Gudi at 9-00. We spent about 30 minutes admiring the humongous structure. The next stop on our morning itinerary was Pattabhirama Gudi, Lokapavani, Domed gateway, and a Shivalaya. The first three were situated at Kamalapur while the last one was a few kilometers away on Kamalapur-Daroji road.

Pattabhirama Gudi is one of the largest and well preserved temples of Hampi. It's a large complex comprising of the main temple, a secondary temple, a pillared hall, an open well, tourist shelter along the perimeter, a Gopura on the eastern wall, a kitchen and wide open space around the temples. The eastern entrance is blocked and the southern entrance is the only way to access the complex.

Here's the transcription of the description of Pattabhirama Gudi:

ಪಟ್ಟಾಭಿರಾಮ ದೇವಾಲಯ 
ಶ್ರೀರಾಮ ದೇವರ ದೇವಾಲಯವನ್ನು ಪ್ರಾಚೀನ ಸ್ಥಳವಾದ ವರದರಾಜಮ್ಮನ ಪಟ್ಟಣ ಎಂಬಲ್ಲಿ ತನ್ನ ಮಡದಿಯ ನೆನಪಿಗಾಗಿ ಅಚ್ಯುತರಾಯನು ಸ್ಥಾಪಿಸಿದನು. ಇದರ ಕಾಲ 16 ನೇ ಶತಮಾನ. ಈ ದೇವಾಲಯವು ಪೂರ್ವಾಭಿಮುಖವಾಗಿದ್ದು ಗರ್ಭಗೃಹ, ಅಂತರಾಳ, ಅವುಗಳ ಸುತ್ತಲೂ ಪ್ರದಕ್ಷಿಣಾಪಥ. ನಂತರ ಸಭಾಮಂಟಪ, ಮಹಾಮಂಟಪವನ್ನು ಒಳಗೊಂಡಿದೆ. ಇವೆಲ್ಲವೂ ಚೌಕಾಕಾರವಾಗಿವೆ. ಆವರಣದ ವಾಯುವ್ಯದಲ್ಲಿ ಅಮ್ಮನವರ ಗುಡಿ ಮತ್ತು ಆಗ್ನೆಯದಲ್ಲಿ ಕಲ್ಯಾಣಮಂಟಪ ಇವೆ. ಇವೆಲ್ಲವನ್ನು ಪ್ರಾಕಾರವು ಸುತ್ತುವರಿದಿದ್ದು, ಅದಕ್ಕೆ ಉತ್ತರ ಮತ್ತು ದಕ್ಷಿಣದಲ್ಲಿ ಪ್ರವೇಶದ್ವಾರಗಳು ಮತ್ತು ಪೂರ್ವದಲ್ಲಿ ಐದು ಅಂತಸ್ತಿನ ಗೋಪುರವಿದೆ. ಪ್ರಾಕಾರದ ಒಳಮುಖವು ಸ್ತಂಭಗಳಿಂದ ಕೂಡಿದೆ. ಸಭಾಮಂಟಪಕ್ಕೆ ಉತ್ತರ ಮತ್ತು ದಕ್ಷಿಣ ದಿಕ್ಕುಗಳಲ್ಲಿ ಮುಖಮಂಟಪಗಳಿವೆ: ವಿಶಾಲವಾದ ಮಹಾಮಂಟಪದಲ್ಲಿ ವಿವಿಧ ರೀತಿಯ 58 ನಯವಾದ ಸಂಕೀರ್ಣ ರೂಪದ ಕಂಬಗಳಿವೆ. ಪೂರ್ವ, ಉತ್ತರ ಮತ್ತು ದಕ್ಷಿಣ ದಿಕ್ಕುಗಳಲ್ಲಿ ಕೈಪಿಡಿಗಳಿರುವ ಮೆಟ್ಟಿಲುಗಳಿವೆ. ಕಂಬಗಳ ಮೇಲೆ ವೈಷ್ಣವ ದೇವತೆಗಳು, ಹನುಮಂತ, ಗರುಡ, ನರ್ತಕರು, ಸಂಗೀತ ವಾದ್ಯ ಮೇಳದವರು, ಯಾಳಿ, ಇತ್ಯಾದಿಗಳ ಉಬ್ಬುಶಿಲ್ಪಗಳಿವೆ. ಗರ್ಭಗೃಹದ ಮೇಲೆ ಮೂರು ಅಂತಸ್ತಿನ ದ್ರಾವಿಡ ಶೈಲಿಯ ಶಿಖರವಿದೆ. ಅಮ್ಮನವರ ಗುಡಿಯು ಪೂರ್ವಾಭಿಮುಖವಾಗಿದ್ದು, ಗರ್ಭಗೃಹ, ಅಂತರಾಳ ಮತ್ತು ಸಭಾಮಂಟಪವನ್ನು ಹೊಂದಿದೆ. ಇದಕ್ಕೆ ಎರಡು ಅಂತಸ್ತಿನ ಶಾಲಾ ಶಿಖರವಿದೆ.. ಕಲ್ಯಾಣಮಂಟಪವು ದಕ್ಷಿಣ ದಿಕ್ಕಿನ ಪ್ರಾಕಾರದ ಗೋಡೆಗೆ ಹೊಂದಿಕೊಂಡು ನಿರ್ಮಿತವಾಗಿದ್ದು ಉತ್ತರ ದಿಕ್ಕಿಗೆ ಮುಖಮಾಡಿದೆ. ಇದರ ಕಂಬಗಳ ಮೇಲೆ ಮಹಾಮಂಟಪದಲ್ಲಿ ಕಂಡುಬರುವಂತಹ ಉಬ್ಬುಶಿಲ್ಪಗಳಿವೆ.

This temple, dedicated to Rama was built in the ancient city of Varadajammana Pattana founded by Achyutaraya, named after his wife. The temple is dated to 16th century CE. The temple faces east and consists of a garbhagriha (sanctum), an antarala (antechamber), a pradakshinapatha (circumambulatory passage) around garbhagriha and antarala, a sabhamandapa (pillared hall), a mahamandapa (a large pillared hall). It also has an Amman shrine in the northwest and a kalyanamandapa in the southeast. All these are enclosed in a prakara wall with entrances on the north and south and a five storeyed gopura on the east. The inner face of the prakara wall is lined with colonnades. The garbhagriha, antarala, sabhamandapa and mahamandapa are all square. The sabhamandapa has on its north and south sides mukhamandapas. The spacious mahamandapa stands on 58 slender composite pillars of various types and has flight of steps flanked by balustrades on east, north and south. The pillars have depictions of Vaishnava deities, Hanuman, Garuda, dancers, drummers, yali, etc. The superstructure over the garbhagriha is a three storeyed Dravida style shikhara. The Amman shrine faces east and has a garbhagriha, an antarala, and a sabhamandapa. It has a two storeyed shala shikhara. The kalyanamandapa, built abutting the south prakara wall faces north and has sculptural scheme similar to that of mahamandapa.

A view of the open pillared shelter for tourists and pilgrims. Sridhar remarked that tying a sheet of cloth across pillars will create a 'cubicle' for those who wanted little privacy. Maybe slots were allotted on the basis of the number of members of a group. I'm wondering if bullock carts were allowed inside for convenience. Maybe yes since the gateway floor is flushed to the ground (see previous image).

Here's a screen-shot taken from Google Maps, the aerial view with individual components marked.

A - Gopura on eastern entrance
B - the main temple
C - Kalyana Mantapa
D - southern entrance
E - secondary temple
F - kitchen

Between the main temple and Gopura is a small mantapa with two pillars holding a wall. I guess this is an incomplete temple since there's a Shikhara sitting over the beams. The Gopura and Shikhara, both built of brick and mortar seem to be built during the same period of time.

Gopura as seen through the incomplete temple. The granite blocks are really well finished. I guess even the least trained apprentice sculptor could produce such blocks in the ancient times.

Here's a diagonal view of the main temple which happens to be dedicated to Sri Rama. As per archaeological sources, this was built during King Ahyutaraya's rule. Incidentally, the temple presently known as Achyuthraya Devastana which was dedicated to Sri Krishna was also built around the same time. Coming back to Pattabhirama Gudi, it has a large mahamandapa i.e. the outer meeting hall. It's a sixty four pillared hall arranged in a 8x8 matrix like a chess board. Each of the pillars four faces carry three images each which makes it twelve per pillar. The outer pillars are exceptions since their designs are slightly different.

Sridhar climbs the balustraded steps and about to step into the sixty four pillared hall. Among all the temples of Hampi, this is one of the best preserved. Of course, some parts of the temple have been repaired. The two balustrades feature a imaginary creature called the Yali. Such balustrades can be seen in Chalukyan temples as well but they might've been added during Hoysala or Vijayanagara times.

A view of the pillared hall. The foremost pillar has images of Hanuman and a squatting lion. At the top are images of Garuda and a dancing girl. Likewise, if one checks out each of the pillars, one can feel the creativity of the ancient sculptors through this imagery.

From the mahamandapa, we step into the sabhamandapa, the inner meeting hall. This hall has two side entrances placed on the northern and southern sides. At the center of the hall is the Rangamandapa in which dance performances used to take place.

This is the mandapa sheltering the southern side. The doorway has been reinforced with additional support in recent times. In this view, the temple's Shikhara comes into view. Unlike Hoysalas and Chalukyas. Vijayamagara builders preferred brick & mortar towers to stone towers. I guess the thought behind brick & mortar Shikhara was to reduce the load over the lower structure.

The three storeyed Dravida style shikhara.

Coming around to the rear of the complex. The secondary temple comes into view which is dedicated to Amma as per the information board. Even this temple has undergone repair work. A reinforcement wall has been added to support the original structure.

This is the northern side of Pattabhirama Gudi. The exterior walls are almost plain except for the niches. Originally every niche would've had a particular deity.

Sridhar checks out Amma temple from outside, we had no thought of stepping in. The pillars  of the sabhamabdapa are plain but have the standard three sections. There's only one entrance to this temple which is in alignment to the Garbhagriha door. The front steps are flanked by balustrades featuring elephants.

Turning attention back to the main temple; this is the northern side. The side entrance is similar to the southern entrance. In plan the temple is symmetric in the east-west axis.

At the northeastern corner of the complex are the kitchen house and an open  well. Surely a permanent kitchen is required since a Kalyana Mantapa is present. Vijayanagara temples are the best organized for celebrating cultural events like birthdays, weddings, naming ceremonies, etc. The required infrastructure was in place. In fact part of the pillared shelter along the compound wall was also used as dining area.

The five tiered Gopura has withstood the tests of time. Most of the plaster has peeled off making it east for vegetation to thrive on the structure, yet the building blocks have held together. That's the quality of ancient works. As you see the passage is gated, obviously to keep out vandals.

Wish I could see this grand structure in it's original form. The stucco figures have managed to hold on but they are crumbling slowly. I guess there's a limit to maintenance spending, we have to accept that fact. Ultimately, everything has to bow down to Nature.


Frontal view of the main temple. The mahamandapa has concealed every other part of the temple including the Shikhara. The Shikhara remains hidden because of the temple's length. This structure's footprint is approximately 68m x 28m which comes to 1900 square meters. The entire complex measures 166m x 96m which comes to 16000 square meters. Wow!

This north-facing pillared hall is the Kalyana Mantapa. The day being cloudy, photos are rather dull. The pillars are decorative and awe-inspiring. One could spend hours gazing at the figures on the pillars.

Pillars along the edges are complex compared to the inner ones. However the pillars of the Ranga Mantapa or the central stage are complex too, at times the most decorative pillars there.

Done with the tour of this temple we head towards the Pushkarni which is about 200 meters away. Every temple must have a source of water. The ancient builders made sure of that and built stepped tanks or dug wells. Life back then was simple but wholesome, I guess.

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Mar 22, 2025

Vishnu Gudi near Kodandarama Devastana, Hampi

One of the many shrines dedicated to Vishnu, this is situated at the end of courtesan's path which connects Achyuthraya Devastana and Varaha Devastana. In fact it is a stone's throw away from Varaha Devastana. Just behind it is a massive rock formation on which sits Hastagiri Ranganataha Devastana which can be seen in the background in below picture. The temple is a kind of semi-open, meaning the Sabhamantapa is sans walls. It has a tall Mukha Mantapa with a brick and mortar crown.

A closer shot of the crown.

Just below the mantapa's ceiling is a niche with a damaged mural of Anatashayana. The upper body above the waist is missing, same for the attendants. I think this is an incomplete project since there are slabs lying on the dirt floor.

This is the open Sabha Mantapa with a central four-pillared Ranga manatapa. Between the Mukha Mantapa and Sabha Mantapa is short sculpted pillar with a young chubby character which seems like Krishna holding butter in the right hand and dancing with joy. On the side faces are Vishnu'd symbols- Shankha & Chakra.

Up above is the damaged damaged image, down below is the image of Anatashayana sculpted on the natural stone. This is a nice little touch for this unique temple.

A closer look at Anantashayana. Vishnu is reclining on Adisesa. I've visited this temple three times, once each with Pushpa, Sridhar and Deepak, in that order. When Sridhar saw this image, he climbed up the platform, touched it both hands and remarked "olle kelsa madtidiya."

A diagonal view of the pillared Sabha Mantapa.

This is Deepak here. The three doorways open to one wide hall which happens to be the vestibule  (Antharala) connecting the Sabha Mantapa and Garbhagudi.

The slabs flanking the middle doorway carry inscriptions, not sure if they are Kannada or Telegu script. If you look beyond the doorway, the sanctum door can be seen.

Stepping into the Antharala (vestibule) the sanctum area comes into view. This temple was meant to have three sanctums hence this would be a Trikutachala. The middle and left sanctum are almost done but the right sanctum is incomplete. There are a lot of clues that indicate this project was abandoned before completion. Probably the construction ceased when Vijayanagara fell to enemy hands.

In the middle sanctum is the deity Vishnu sculpted on a rock. Flanking Vishnu are his consorts.

This is one of the noteworthy temples of Hampi but it is kind of neglected. To my knowledge there's no description board like most temples have.

It seems people of Hampi held Anantashayana close to their hearts. There's one more sculpture a short distance from here but reaching it can be little challenging since it's situated in the rocky shore at Chakrathirta. Also, one has to see the massive Anantashayana Gudi even though there's no deity there.

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Mar 15, 2025

Anantashayana near Sahasralinga, Hampi

To say that Hampi is a Nature's maze, a maze of rock formations. In this maze are hidden countless sculptures. During the peak of Vijayanagara Samrajya, Hampi was one of the most wealthiest cities on our planet. The empire and it's subjects prospered under the able administration of Vijayanagara kings. It is said that jewelry & gems were sold in open markets like vegetables & grains. Besides economic growth Hampi was also a cultural center, all types of artists were under the patronage of state and private citizens. One can say that sculptors were among the foremost going by the sheer number of sculptures at Hampi. Well, it's not just Hampi. Temples, shelters and water-tanks were constructed across the kingdom, especially between Hampi and Tirumala hills. To name a few, the ruins at Penukonda, Gummanayakana Kote, Cuddapah, etc. go back to Vijayanagara times.

Between Feb 1996 and Feb 2025, I've visited Hampi & Anegundi seven or eight times. Only after four visits a map of the monuments started forming in my mind. Now I'm more or less familiar with the locations and routes snaking through the ruins. Yet, I haven't seen all the monuments. With every visit I've been discovering new spots. I have to mention about an accidental discovery of a prehistoric painting in a cavern near Chakra Thirta.

Feb 29th. Deepak and I were determined to reach the Sahasralinga that morning which we did. We also discovered a shrine hidden amongst the boulders next to the waters of Tungabhadra. The effort of clambering over rocks was a lot and we needed a break. We climbed up to a mantapa which gave a wonderful view of the boulders and river. To our left, down below was the relief image Vishnu lying on Adisesa the serpent. The image is approximately six feet wide and four feet high. Flanking Anatashayana are Hanuman and Garuda. 

People coming to see Sahasralinga also come to see Ananatashayana. To the upper left of the image is a plant. Right next to that plant is one Sahasralinga and, a few feet away is the other Sahasralinga. In the background are Kodandarama Gudi, Mantapa and Yantrodharaka Hanuman Gudi.

A closer look at Anantashayana. It seems people of Vijayanagara had great love and devotion for Vishnu, particularly his sleeping form. There are several images of Anantashayana in Hampi, for example the one near Kodandarama Gudi. Also one of the largest temples of Hampi is dedicated to Anatashayana which is located between Kamalapur and Hosapete.

That's the mantapa where we rested.

Besides the mantap is another ruined domed structure which was a temple a long time ago. Besides the domed structure is a relief sculpture of Lakshmi-Narasimha, the form where Lakshmi is seen accompanying Vishnu's fourth avatar Narasimha.

This is a miniature of the huge Lakshmi-Narasimha Murthy near Sri Krishna Devastana.

After resting at the mantapa we trek in the river's direction and head towards the cave with prehistoric painting.

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Mar 8, 2025

Sahasralinga near Chakratirtha, Hampi

This important spot was unknown to me despite several trips to Hampi. The day I learned about it I decided to see it. Also I came to know that the spot is a bit difficult to reach since it is situated amongst heaps of rocks. Reaching the spot would be challenging and an adventure.

Dec 11, 2024. This was the third day of Hampi-Anegundi tour with Sridhar. We arrived at Chakratirtha around 7-15 am. We visited Kodandarama Devastana and Yantrodharak Hanuman Gudi. Then we went in search of Sahsralinga. The natural formations looked daunting. We followed the ruins of the ancient path of rough-cut blocks placed over natural boulders. At one point some of the blocks had dislodged making the path uneven where we had to be tread slowly. At this point we aborted the search. We traced back part of the way and then climbed a slope going towards Vishnu Dashavatara sculpture. We parked ourselves on a comfortable spot which had a great view of Chakratirtha and its surroundings. This is where I got the thought of continuing the search using DJI Mini 2. Within minutes I located the two groups of Linga and took a few shots of them. We were quite close to Sahasralinga but we couldn't figure out the way to reach them. Satisfied with the aerial shots we moved.

Jan 29, 2025. I was at Hampi again, this time with my brother Deepak. This time I was determined to reach the Sahasralinga. Like the previous visit, we followed the ancient path built over the boulders and went all the way down. The path took us to an ancient temple very close to the waters. I have no words to describe the temple.. a deep bow to whoever conceived the idea and also to the people who created it. And it was a dead end unless we chose to swim in the river and go around the boulders. Coincidentally a coracle was passing by. I asked the coracle pilot who told us to go back and climb a large boulder. We traced back our steps and looked for another path in the maze of boulders. I saw a group of four men were climbing up a boulder and felt they could lead us. Yes. With a bit of help from the group we too climbed on and a little distance away were the two groups of Sahasralinga. To my right is Tungabhadra but out of sight. And, in the background on the horizon is the Matanga Gudda.

Of the two groups of Linga this is the smaller one.

Such a beautiful creation. It's an ancient practice to make a vow to build a temple or get a deity sculpted when their wishes come true or problems solved. Vows were taken by kings, high ranking officers, businessmen or any person. I feel Hampi is filled with temples and shrines which originated from such vows.

The pentagon outline is unique. The geometry is interesting. The matrix of Linga is skewed on the right. The last three columns are bent unlike the perfect columns on the left.

The larger group too has imperfections. Probably it wasn't made perfect intentionally. At the southwestern corner is a symbolic etching of a prostrating couple. 

This following shots are from DJI Mini2. At the top of the picture is another row of Linga enclosed in squares. Also there's a lone Linga too. In fact, as we stepped around these boulders we could see several shrines of Linga and inscriptions too. A lot of people has their vows fulfilled at Chakratirta. Probably the rich had appointed priests to perform daily rituals, and they themselves would participate once a month or a year.

Here's a shot showing both Sahasralinga.

Here are a couple of bird's eye view of Chakratirtha.

And a view of Tungabhadra turning towards east again. At the bend, on the opposite bank are the ruins of Chandramouleshwara Devastana and the ancient bridge connecting the two shores.

For those who wish to reach Sahasralinga, please bear in mind there are three ways-

  1. Approaching from the south. This is a rather challenging route since it is involves moving across uneven surface and leaping across gaps between boulders.
  2. Approaching from the north. This is slightly less tedious but one has to walk a lot more.
  3. The river approach. One could ride the coracle and get off at a point close to Sahasralinga. One walks to climb a short uneven surface to reach the spot.

Whichever way one takes, please be very careful since the rocks are slippery. And the rocks  are even more slippery when under a blazing sun or on a rainy day.
While you are here do not forget to see the north-facing relief sculpture of Anantashayana, the sleeping form of Vishnu.

Talking about Saharsralinga at Hampi, there's another such spot on Malyavanta Raghunatha Gudda, just behind the temple complex.

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Mar 1, 2025

Baobab of Purani Jhunsi, Prayagraj

Explorer Vijay Menon & team discover another baobab tree. This baobab is way up the country, at Purani Jhusi in Prayagraj.

That's Vijay with the Baobab.

The tree is situated on a large platform which quite convenient for the baobab. However Vijay noted some people were scrapping layers off the tree's trunk. Apparently the scrapings were to be used to prepare medicine for headache or some other ache. Hoping this is not a regular happening considering the tree's safety. Hoping local authorities take notice of this and erect a fence to prevent people coming in physical contact with this living heritage.

And here's Vijay & team at Prayagraj for Maha Kumbha Mela 2025.

Baobab originates from the African continent. Between the XIV and XVII Centuries CE, groups of Sufi ascetics travelled to the Indian subcontinent carrying Baobab seeds & saplings. The Sufi ascetics planted them wherever they camped for long periods. Baobab, though a rare tree in our country, thousands of trees are said to have survived in the western parts i.e. Goa, Maharashtra, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh. Baobabs made their way interior regions i.e. the Deccan plateau and even down south to Tamil Nadu. For the reader's benefit, below is a list of known Baobab trees of India-

  1. Hilltop Nightclub, Vagator, Goa
  2. Cabo Raj Bhavan, Dona Paula, Goa
  3. Quepem, Goa
  4. Bamboo Motels, Goa
  5. next to Yogapur mosque, Bijapur
  6. Mahalakshmi Gudi premises, Martur, Kalburgi district
  7. Dodda Hunashe Matha, Savanur, Karnataka
  8. Near the aquarium in Lalbagh Botanical Garden, Bengaluru
  9. on the outskirts of Devadurga, Raichur district, Karnataka
  10. Purana Qilla, Golconda Fort, Hyderabad, Telangana
  11. Attapur, Hyderabad
  12. Vansthalipuram, Hyderabad, Telangana
  13. near Chappel Road, Hyderabad, Telangana
  14. Ranganath temple at Nanakramguda, Hyderabad, Telangana
  15. Shivalaya on Balachandruni Guttalu, Nalagonda, Telangana
  16. Uppal in Chengicherla Reserve Forests, Hyderabad, Telangana
  17. Nellore, Andhrapradesh
  18. Theosophist Society Gardens, Chennai, Tamil Nadu
  19. The American College campus, Madurai, TN
  20. Chinmaya Vidyalaya's campus at Ilanthope, Rajapalayam, TN
  21. Mangaliawas near Ajmer, Rajasthan
  22. Vadodara, Gujarat
  23. Dayapur, Gujarat
  24. Kutch, Gujarat
  25. Bhanagar, Gujarat
  26. Baroda, Gujarat
  27. Victoria Garden, Sukharamnagar, Ahmedabad, Gujarat
  28. Mulund, Mumbai, Maharashtra
  29. Byculla zoo, Mumbai, Maharashtra
  30. Tilak road and Ghokale road, Pune, Maharastra
  31. near Aurangabad, Maharashtra
  32. inside Shirala fort, Maharashtra
  33. Revdanda-Murud road near Korlai, Maharastra
  34. opposite Mandvi Darwaza at Vasai Fort, Maharastra
  35. Nana Fadnavis Wada premises, Menawali, Maharashtra
  36. Mandavgad or Mandu, Madhya Pradesh
  37. Sanjay Gandhi Biological Park, Bihar

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