splendor of Chalukyan art

August 15th 2017

We (Pushpa & I) ended the Hampi-Anegundi tour unwillingly and started our journey towards Dharwad. It's not a long journey and we weren't in a rush to reach Dharwad. On the route are several places of interest, both historical and religious, most of which Pushpa hadn't seen. So I picked three spots: Kukanoor, Itagi and Gadag. After six or seven years, I was visiting Kukanoor and Itagi. First we went to Kukanoor, spent an hour or so at Sri Mahaymaya Devastana. Then we came down to Itagi. The landscaping around Itagi Mahadeva Gudi had improved significantly, it was inviting. Landscaping or not, the Chalukyan temple is attractive but the caretakers had put in a lot of effort to make it tourist friendly.

We spent more than an hour here, checking out details closely and photographing sparingly. Photos of that trip have been shared in a three part article titled: Itagi Mahadeva Devasthana. Some of the pictures weren't posted and today's the day for three of them.

This pillar is one of my favorites at Itagi Mahadeva. The pillar design is simply mesmerizing. The design is so complex that people like us can't even imagine such a form. When you compare it with the pair of lathe-turned pillars here, they look relatively simple & easy. Those ancient sculptors, how did they even conceive the design and then produce it. What kind of technology did the ancient sculptors possess which remains mysterious to this day.

With this picture, we focus on just that pillar. Keep staring at it, it feels like seeing a 3D image.

The words that come to mind are:  aesthetics, complexity, accuracy, precision & endurable.

Here's another mind-blowing pillar. Looks like the sculptors, notched up one level in terms of complexity. I wonder, had that age of Chalukyan rulers & builders continued for few more centuries, what else they would've created and produced. We are incapable of imagining that.

Before I end this post, I urge you to visit Itagi Mahadeva Devastana once. Make sure you have time when you do.

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Samudra Manthan at Pattadakal

On the pillars and walls of Virupaksha Gudi at Pattadakal are sculptures depicting several legendary stories. One of the most interesting ones is the relief sculpture of Samudra Manthan or Amrit Manthan, the story of churning the ocean to obtain Amrit, the nectar of immortality.

The story goes like this: Durvasa Muni gives a sacred garland to Indra, the king of Devas. Indra carelessly places it on his elephant. The sacred garland falls to the ground and the elephant tramples it. Durvasa is enraged and curses Indra & Devas which leaves them weak and vulnerable to their archfoes the Asuras. Desperate to regain their power, the Devas approach Vishnu. The solution is obtain Amrit by churning the ocean of milk. The task of churning was impossible for Devas alone and it needed Asura's help. The Devas devise a plan, forming an alliance with the Asuras with a promise to share the reward equally.

For the act of churning Mount Mandara is used as the rod and Vasuki the serpent is the rope. Mandara is placed in the ocean, Vasuki is wound around Mandara, the Asuras hold the head side of Vasuki and Devas settle for tail side. As they pull back and forth, Mandara starts sinks because there's nothing to support it. To stop Mandara sinking, Vishnu takes the form of a tortoise and positions himself under Mandara. Vishnu assuming the tortoise form is known as Kurma Avatar, one of the Dashavatara. The churning is resumed. The first outcome is Halahala the toxic precipitation. Shiva steps in and swallows Halalala and holds it in his throat making it blue giving him the name Neelakant. The world is saved. With the continued churning the following is obtained: Kamadhenu the wish fulfilling cow, Airavata the white elephant, Uchhaishravas the divine horse, Parijata the wishing tree and Lakshmi. In the end emerges Dhanavantri holding the pot of Amrit the nectar of immortality. That's as far as Samudra Manthan is concerned. What follows is the conflict around sharing the divine elixir. The wily Devas, with Vishnu's help hoodwink the Asuras which is a story for another day.

In the sculpture, the top section is an act of churning curds in a pot. I have no clue who the characters are. In the middle is Samudra Manthan, and the bottom section is Devas holding Vasuki's tail.

The neighboring column in the same temple has an illusionary sculpture. See the top section, you'll see three men standing closely. When you look at it intently you'll notice there are only four arms and four legs. It's a clever little sculpture, isn't it.

In the mid and bottom sections are battle scenes, archers shooting at each other. Again, I have no clue who these characters are. If you identify them, do share in the comments section.

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