Buddha Vihaara, Kalburgi

Jan 29, 2011

Trying to recall memories of a trip fifteen years ago. The trip was with three of my maternal uncles covering the three northern districts Bidar, Kalburgi and Vijayapura. On the last day of the trip, the last destination of the day was Buddha Vihaara situated just outside of Kalburgi city. Back then, the Buddhist center was newly finished and open to the public recently.

Vihaara is a residence of Buddhist monks and nuns. This is the symbolic arch at entrance of the monastery. Flanking the arch are Buddhist Torana. Posted on the gate was a detailed instructions to visitors asking them to treat this as a solemn tour. Every visitor was expected to remain silent and behave with dignity. Photography was prohibited beyond this point.

Visitors had to take of footwear including socks and enter barefoot. Inside the campus, visitors had access only to the main hall and the walkway around it. The dome seen here is the crown of the meditation hall.

At the entrance of the hall was another set of instructions and supervisors made sure people remained silent. The circular hall was simple and bare except for mats of cushions for seating. I must've remained inside for about 15 minutes. I saw some people so restless that could not even remained seated for a couple of minutes. Honestly, tourists must not enter such a place if they cannot connect with its sanctity.

Kalburgi is the hottest district of Karnataka state. I remember seeing terrain devoid of greenery when we drove on the ring road. Here there's an attempt to grow trees around the Vihaara which was appreciable. Surely, after a decade and half these sapling would've grown up, a live green screen around the Vihaara.

In the mid 2010s, we drove through Kalburgi a couple of times but somehow never thought of another visit to the Vihara since we had tight itineraries both times. Perhaps it's time for another visit to this city and catch up with this monuments again. 

.........

Wagangera fort western gateway

During the only visit to Wagangera fort on Nov 27, 2013, I had seen most of the fort, not all of it. Being a seldom visited place the fort has a wild feel. There was a group of grownup langurs spread out within the ruins of the fort. They were being langurs every bit occupying high points, watching the surroundings and then suddenly shift to another spot. I was wary of their presence, kept my fingers crossed and wished they left me alone. I'm sure there were a plenty of nocturnal wild creatures, tucked away in their dens. With such thoughts I explored the ruins right from the fort's main entrance which is east-facing to the western entrance.

The western gateway is at a lower elevation and less grand. However, at some point of time, when Wagangera fort was taken over the invaders, some sculptures were embedded into the gateway walls. The intent of that is obvious; for the invaders westerly direction has religious importance and they wanted to assert their beliefs on the local people. Directly above the doorway is this inscription which seems like Arabic.

To the right of the inscription is a relief sculpture depicting a pendant dangling at the end of a short chain. I've seen this pattern / design at monuments at Vijayapura, Kalburgi and Bidar. This might be an emblem of Adil Shahis or Bahamanis.

On the left hand side of the doorway are two square tablets with geometric patterns. Both are aesthetically pleasing, surely made by skilled hands. Again, such pieces of artwork can be seen at monuments at ancient capital cities.

Lastly, I have to mention this: Wagangera kingdom was established in 1636 CE by Gaddipidda Nayaka, son of Jakkappa Nayaka Desai. In May 1705, Waganageri kingdom reaches its end when Pitambari Bahari Piddanayaka establishes Surpur kingdom.

This post can't be closed without saying thanks to my host at Wagangera, Venkatesh Bappargi, and his friend Kanakappa Waganageri a dedicated school teacher.

.........