Madhukeshwara Devastana, Banavasi - part 2

...continued from Madhukeshwara Devastana, Banavasi - part 1.

Madhukeshwara temple complex is a group of dozen temples. The main temple being dedicated to Madhukeshwara and the next most important is Parvati temple. These two temples are side by side. Inside the main temple is a 7' tall Nandi idol which is positioned in such a way that its left eye looks at the main deity i.e the honey colored Shivalinga and the right eye looks at Parvati's idol. The remaining sub-shrines are built around the premises. One of the sub-shrines is a box-like structure which houses the idol of Shiva and Parvati astride Nandi. While Madhukeshwara and Parvati temples are Chalukyan creations, these smaller structures seems to be built during Vijayanagara / Sonda king's rule.

Coming to the these three temples, these are brick and mortar structures. Their arches are different- rectangular, simple arch and pointed arch. The architecture of the pointed arch is Indo Sarcenic, which was in practice from Vijayanagara times. The shrine with rectangular door has seven little lamp-nests. Those nests add character to the facade. Every builder-artist had a unique idea.

This is the fourth largest sub-shrine. The lathe-turned columns seem to be from Chalukyan time. I did not venture inside.

Three more brick & mortar structures similar to the ones seen earlier. Their doorways are arched and has murals for decoration. Take a look at the crown of the temple on left hand side. Its the lotus emblem seen in the buildings of Bijapur built during Adil Shahi time. It looks like the rulers imposed elements of Islamic architecture on Hindu temples.

Now we are on the southern side of the complex. This is the profile of the main temple. The Shikhara is a narrow tall pyramid. Subsequent rulers have imposed their artworks over the original structure like the arched niche above the square stone window. The arch is brick & mortar work added during or post Vijayanagara time. Anyway, the proportions of the original structure is classic, very much a Chalukyan. The southern wall too is covered with pairs of Shivalinga & Nandi. It looks like the walls were painted white and ocher long time back, the colors have faded over time but holding on.

This twin temple is the third largest structure in this complex. It's two deities are Ganesha and Mahishamardini.

The twin temple as seen from the front. This is the east-facing door. The other door is on the northern side which faces one of the side entrances of the main temple.

The crown over the eastern door is brick & mortar work added on during Vijayanagara time. The Shikhara is similar to the main temple tower. The proportion is perfect.

The twin temple interior. Its hall is dominated by a central Mantapa formed by four turned pillars. This is the northern door which connect to the side entrance of Madhukeshwara temple.

On two of four column bases are inscriptions in Kannada. The inscriptions seem to be of Vijayanagara times.

Now to the most important item of this temple- Kallina Mancha ~ the stone cot. This artifact is placed in a shed with collapsible shutters, can be seen but cannot be touched. This ornate cot is an assembly of individual sculptures- four legs, one platform, four pillars and a canopy. Its an amazing piece of work, quite rare actually.  The only other stone cot I know of is at Sonda fort, about 40 kms northwest of Banavasi.

Photographing this monument is a circus. Of the seven shots, the two which cover the cot from top to bottom have been used here. The four columns which support the canopy are complex art works featuring four lions and elephants in each. The canopy's periphery is sloped and ribbed, like a temple's canopy. The flat surface has fifteen lotuses. All lotuses centers are hollow excepting the central one. Looks like the holes are through... wondering for what purpose. An electrician managed to fix a bulb holder into the canopy!

The main temple has its Dhwajastambha which is situated between the temple and the complex door. This is the pillar's stepped base. The step faces are covered with murals of Shivalinga ans Nandi, just the walls of the main temple.

We had to end our tour and move on. We had two more temples to visit and then reach Bhadravathi before dusk. On the way out I noticed this panel of extruded flowers. This piece of work is unique, can't recall seeing such work anywhere else.

Finally, we say bye to the two stone elephants which greet people to this historical temple. One must closely see the details, you'll be amazed by the imagination of the sculptors.

Across the street is a flight of steps which goes down to river Varada. The river blows in a tight semicircle before flowing in the northeasterly direction. We skipped it due to time constraint. While scanning the area, I noticed a place marked as Jain temple across the river. Also we missed seeing the other temples of Banavasi, especially Allama Prabhu Devastana. Banavasi is known for handicrafts manufacturing. Hopefully, I'll make another visit to catch up with the missed places.
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Madhukeshwara Devastana, Banavasi - part 1

February 22, 2020
We left Dharwad early morning, reached Sahasralinga by 7-30 AM. It was deserted but the place was littered because of Mahasivaratri. At the river there were 3 or 4 people doing morning Pooja. I stopped for Pushpa's sake. River Shalmala was flowing, shallow enough to wade through. Pushpa stepped into the river and did Namaskara to one of the many Nandi idols. It was a quick stop, we headed towards Sirsi Maarikamba Devastana. A quick Darshan there as well and then to a cousin's place off Sirsi-Banavasi road. We chatted over breakfast and left. We reached Banavasi Madhukeshwara Devastana by 9-45 AM. It was already warm, and sultry too.

As we entered, we saw people clearing up litter from last night's event.. flowers and Bilva Patri. Also there was another group removing temporary shelters, scaffolding, ropes and what not. I was disappointed.. have to put up with such things once in a while.

This is the main temple within this complex of a dozen temples. The sloping roof is the most prominent feature of this temple. This region receives heavy rainfalls. The slope is designed to keep water away from the walls. The main temple's deity is Madhukeshwara depicted by a honey (Madhu) colored Shivalinga.

This temple complex is a protected monument, its under the care of ASI. A board describes the monument as follows:
The Madhukeshwara temple, originally considered to have been dedicated to Madhava, a form of Vishnu, of Kadamba period has undergone substantial addition and alternations from the time of Western Chalukyas right upto the Sonda kings as evidence by more than twelve inscriptions and architectural features. This temple facing east on plan a square Grarbhagriha with circumbalatory passage all around, accommodating Madhukeshwara Linga on a decorated Yonipitha, two sub-shrines attached to the eastern wall housing Mahishamardini and Ganesha, a large hall with massive pillars of square cross section (all assignable to Western Chalukya times). This is followed by a Navaranga with ornate lathe turned pillars, accommodating an ornate couchant Nandi image, Kakshasana arrangement along the periphery and entrances on three sides assignable to Kalyana Chalukya period. Within the temple are sculptures of Adimadhava and Kartikeya displaying early features. Present super structure of Vijayanagara-Sonda period, rises in stepped pyramidical order in typical Kadambanagara style with Sukanasa in front. The Shikhara is decorated with beautiful stucco figures like Nandi in the corners, the ten incarnations of Vishnu, the twelve forms of Aditya, the guardian deities (Dikpalakas) and various other deities as also Nagabandhas. The roof of the Navaranga is flat at the center and slopes along the periphery. There is a Dhvajastambha in front, The sub-shrines along the Prakara wall accommodating the Dikpalakas Dhundiraja, Ganapati, Chintamani Narasimha and other sculptures are the contribution of Sonda kings.
The most significant objects within the temple premises are the inscribed Naga sculpture, the highly ornate stone cot. The inscribed Naga sculpture carved on a thin rectangular slab has an ornate five-hooded coiled serpent as the central figure with an inscription in nail headed Brahmi characters (2nd century AD) and Prakit language along the side borders. It records the gift of this artistic Naga image along with a tank and Vihara by Sivaskanda Nagasri, daughter of Hariputra Vinhukada Chutukualananda Satakarni in his 12th regnal year.
Significantly the epigraph refers to the name of the sculptor Nataka, a disciple of Acharya Damoraka, hailing from Sanjayati (Banavasi) who carved it. Thus, it is one of the earliest epigraphical references to the name of the sculptor. The stone known as Trilokamandapa, presently kept in the Navaranga of the temple, a donation to the temple by Sonda king Sadasiva Nayaka (16th Century AD), has many delicate carvings. The stone cot, donated by Raghunatha Nayaka (AD 1628) is yet another masterpiece of stone carving, every inch of which depicts intricate floral, animal and geometric designs. Two elegantly carved stone elephants flank the flight steps of the eastern main entrance of the complex. In and around Banavasi there are many other temples like Adikadambeswara, Adimadhukeswara, Allamaprabhu, etc. of modest size and ornamentation.

Madhukeshwara Devastana is an east-facing temple. The Navaranga Manatapa (meeting hall) has one entrance in the front and four entrances on its sides. A pair of ribbed spiral balustrades flank the front entrance, beckoning visitors to this magnificent temple. This type of balustrade is common to many Chalukyan temples.

This is the Navaranga. Nandi sits in the middle of the aisle, close to the entrance. The rows of turned & polished columns are a sight to behold. This idol is approximately 7 feet high including the pedestal. It is said that Nandi's head is positioned in such a way that it's left eye looks at Shivalinga while the right looks at Parvati.

Side view of Nandi. Its sits there facing its Lord in the Garbhagriha. North Karnataka people prefer to call Nandi as Basavnna, an informal way of addressing Shiva's Vahana. When one says Basavnna, it comes from the heart.

The Navaranga has three lines of columns on each side. Totally six lines which comes to around 64 columns.

The circular stage in front of Nandi. This stage was meant for dancing. The temple dancers performed here during particular events. Dance floors can be seen in most Chalukya and Hoysala temples.

The temple features four or five types of columns.. circular or octagonal sections.

Madhukeshwara temple is known for two special objects- Trilokamandapa and a stone cot, both made of stone. This chair like object is Triloka-mandapa. Triloka means three worlds (Swarga, Bhoo and Patala). As described by the ASI, the Mantapa is covered with carvings of characters from Hindu legends. It looks like a chair with a roof.. like a throne.

Over the centuries, this temple has has been visited by God knows how many millions of people. Probably this temple was occupied by a people, a home to some families. Looks like those people etched this matrix on the temple floor. This 8x8 matrix is used for a game called Chaukabara, played to this day. The game can be played between minimum of two people to eight people. Dice or Cowrie  or Tamarind seeds is used to decide the number of moves. Though the moves are given by chance the game is about working out the right strategy.

Besides the main temple is another east-facing temple which is simpler in terms of details. This is the space between the two structures. The openings are opposite to each other so to facilitate easy movement between the two.

The Sabhmandapa of the other temple which should should be Parvati Devastana. Nandi must be looking at the deity of this temple.

These are the sub-shrines around the main temples. The shrines are mostly dedicated to forms of Shiva. Going by the construction of these structures, I'm guessing them to be of Vijayanagara period. Probably the idols inside are much older, the newer structures were constructed as part of renovation work.

This box like structure is made of stone- slabs, columns and beams. This may not be Chalukyan, could be built by the rulers of Sonda or Vijayanagara, The temple's deity is Shiva-Parvati seated on Nandi (see inset) which is quite rare. One other temple where the main deity is Shiva-Parvati on Nandi is Somanatha Gudi, Lakshmeshwar. The idols are not exactly similar but close enough for comparison. The external walls feature two interesting sculptures.

Here's a collage of those two sculptures. The top image has Hanuman, Gopala Krishna with his Gopikas and Gau, Vishnu, Laxmi and Bhumi. The bottom image has Hayagrive, Brahma, Kaalabhairava trampling some Asura, Parvati and Vishnu. The sculptures have the hallmarks of Vijayanagara artwork.

I'm standing at the north-west corner of the complex, in front of Shiva-Parvati temple. These two Shikharas are the main temples'. One in the foreground is Parvati temple's and the one behind is Madhukeshwara temple's. At the rear side of the complex are more sub-shrines dedicated to various forms of Shiva. Probably there will one for Veerabhadra.

This is the wall of Madhukeshwara temple. I wanted to check out the window. Its a classical window seen in Chalukyan temples. You can see one such window at Naganatha Devastana near Banashankari in Bagaklot district. Now, see the wall.. its covered in pairs of Shivalinga and Nandi. Looks like disciples got the images sculpted as a form of contribution to the temple thereby providing work to the sculptors.

We'll continue the tour in the following post- Madhukeshwara Devastana, Banavasi - part 2.
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what to see in Ballari district (prior to bifurcation)

There are several stories around the name Ballari. The first story attributes Ballari to Balleshwara which is derived from the word Balla, meaning a dome shaped measuring cup. The story is that a devout merchant community which halted here could not find a Shiva Linga. An upturned balla, symbolic of Linga, was used for the ritual. The shrine remained and a temple was built for it. The temple still exists and remains popular attracting huge crowds during Maha Shivaratri. The other story attributes the name to the story of Lord Indra slaying a demon named Balla. After slaying the demon, Indra was called by the name Balla-ari which means the slayer of Balla. These are the two folklore behind Ballari's name. However, historians say that Ballari might have been derived from Kannada words Vallari and Vallapuri mentioned in an inscription belonging to Talakadu Ganga dynasty.

During the British rule, Bellary district was part of Madras Presidency. The district covered a large area including the present day Kurnool and Anantapur districts. In 1957, Madras state was divided on linguistic basis. Areas with significant Kannada speaking population were transferred to Mysore State (which later became Karnataka state) and areas with Telugu speaking population were transferred to Anatapur and Kurnool districts. When Bellary district was formed it had eight taluqas, and in 1997 Harapanahalli taluq was transferred to Davangere district.

Ballari is part of Bayaluseeme (flat land) but with plenty of hill ranges and rock formations which is more or less similar to Chitradurga district. River Tungabhadra flows along Ballari district's western and northern border which is shared with Haveri, Gadag, Koppal and Raichur districts. Ballari district is known for its iron ore deposits, steel plants and power generation plants. Hampi and Ballari fort are popular tourist destinations. Besides the main stream tourist spots, within the boundaries of Ballari district are a large number of pre-historic sites, prehistoric ash-mounds, two rock edits of Samrat Ashoka's period and several smaller forts. Bellary has the distinction of having the biggest Neolithic tools manufacturing center at Sangankallu and hundreds of prehistoric petroglyphs at Kappagallu. For one with interest in prehistory, this district offers great adventure and exploration.

Anantasayanagudi, Bellary fort
Charkratheerta, Shilpavana at Hampi Kannada University

Hampi Virupaksha temple street, Elephant stables
Stepped tank near Mahanavami Dibba, Lotus Mahal in Zenana enclosure

Shri Ujjaini Saddharma Peetha, Ashokan edict of Nittur
Ashokan edict of Udegola, Tekkalakote fort 

Prehistoric anthropomorphic statue of Kumati, Megalithic tomb of Kumati
Prehistoric grinding stone at Sangankallu, Petroglyphs at Sangankallu

Jogikal fort, Narihalla at Sandur
Rock shelter with prehistoric paintings at Gudekote, Ash-mound of Kudatini

Here is a list of places to see in Ballari district.

1. Ballari fort - one of the largest hill forts of Karnataka. The formidable fort is situated on a massive monolithic hill called Ballari Gudda at the center of the city. The original fort was constructed during Hanumappa Nayaka's rule and later expanded by Hyder Ali. The builders have integrated natural boulders into the line of defense. The walls are 15 to 20 feet high and 12 to 18 feet thick. Turrets have been strategically placed in the outer walls. At the summit is the core of the fort large enough to house several hundred people. The fort also has number of rainwater collection tanks, both natural and man-made. The fort's gateways have winding paths passing through them designed to confuse enemy forces. To the fort completely, one will need a full day.
2. Tungabhadra dam, Hospete - As the name indicated this is a dam across river Tungabhadra, situated on the western side of Hospete city. The dam is built of granite blocks bound with Surki Mortar (a combination of mud and limestone). The construction began in 1947 and completed in 1958. The dam is 2449 meters wide and 50 meters at the deepest point. Below the dam is a well maintained garden with musical fountain. The dam garden is open to public during certain hours.
3. Anantasayana Gudi - This village is named after its colossal temple of the same name. The temple of massive dimensions has a single Garbhagudi with three doors - which is unusual in Hindu temples. The Garbhagudi, designed to house a huge reclining idol of Ranganatha, has a huge vault dome. However, this temple has no deity. Anantasayana Gudi is situated 10 km from Hampi and 3 kms from Hospete.
4. Muhammadan Tombs of Kadirampuram - There are two structures built in Bahamani architecture. One can consider this a small necropolis. Kadirampura is situated on Hampi-Hospete road, 3.5 km southwest of Hampi and 9.5 km from Hospete.
5. Hampi - Hampi was the place where Vijayanagara Samrajya was born and served as its capital. The ancient capital, now a village of ruins, is situated on the left bank of river Tungabhadra. The name Hampae has been derived from Halae-Kannada word 'Pampaa' which means great. Hampi is a sprawling collection of standalone temples & temple complexes, water tanks & canals, mantapas, fortification structures, military barracks, royal enclosures, stables, market places, memorials, water structures, and natural hills & rock formations. There's a saying in Kannada which goes like this- those with good eye-sight must see Kanakagiri, those who can walk must see Hampi. Its true, to really see the monuments of Hampi, one must walk and be willing to spend a week.
6. Kamalapura - Being in the immediate neighborhood of Hampi, Kamalapur too is a historic town. This place was the residence of Anegundi king. In the south-eastern part of the town are ruins of a fort and a watch tower. Close by is an ancient well which is believed to be sacred to Brahma. Kamalapur is also home for Hampi Archaeological Museum. Just outside the north-eastern corner of the town is Pattabhirama temple complex which was built during Vijayanagara rule. Kamalapur is about 5 km south of Hampi and 12 km northeast of Hospet.
7. Kannada University - Kannada University, also called as Hampi Kannada University or Hampi University is a research-oriented university founded in 1991. The aim of this university is to develop Kannada language and to promote literature, traditions, culture, and folklore of Karnataka. The campus has a peaceful, garden like ambiance. In the main building is a museum of ancient artifacts. Set in the natural rock formations is Shilpavana, the garden of stone sculptures which are present day creations by the faculty and staff of this university. Kannada University is situated 12 km south of Hampi.
8. Kampli - This fortified river town has been an important place right from Chalukyan times. Situated on the right bank of Tungabhadra, it was one of the capitals of Chalukya kingdom in mid XI Century, a stronghold of the Anegundi kings and an outpost of Vijayanagara. The fort is built of the dark colored stone available in the riverbed. Kampli's warrior king  Kampli Raya and his son Gandugali Kumara Rama died fighting the invading Muslim forces. Kampli is noted for wood-carving, manufacture of toys and coracle making. On the outskirts of the town is an ancient shrine dedicated to Pampapathi. Kampli is situated 33 km northeast of Hospete and 22 km from Kamalapura.
9. Daroji Bear Sanctuary - This sanctuary spread over 80 sq km is dedicated to the preservation of the endangered sloth bears. Being an endemic species, the rough terrain of Daroji is a natural home to sloth bears. The sanctuary is open to public during day times and entry is chargeable. Daroji sanctuary is situated 50 km north-west of Ballari and 20 km south-east of Hampi.
10. Shrimad Ujjini Sadharma Simhasana Mahasamsthana - Ujjaini is one of the Panchapeethas along with Baalehonnur, Kashi, Kedar and Srishaila. Marulasiddeshwara (also known as Maralusidda), a contemporary of Basaveshwara, is the founder of Shrimad Ujjaini Sadharma Simhasana Mahasamsthana. The temple within this Matha complex is believed to be his Aikyasthala. Maralusidda had worked with Basaveshwara for the good of the society during the Kalyana revolution in XII Century. Ujjaini is about 63 kms Northeast of Davangere and 26 kms from Jagaluru.
11. Bairidevara Kote - An ancient hill top fort with a temple dedicated to Bairideva. The rocky outcrop sticks out from its surrounding plain land. Bairideva hill is about 4 kms north of Ujjini.
12. Palayyana Kote - An ancient hill top fort which might have served as a residence for Palegaras who watched over the surrounding plains. Palayyanakote is about 12 km northeast of Ujjini.
13. Jogikallu fort - This is a small fort built on a rocky outcrop. Within the fortification is a group of temples. The fort is small, has four or five bastions. The name Jogikallu is comprised of two Kannada words Jogi + Kallu. Jogi somewhat means Yogi and Kallu is stone. Halae Jogikallu is situated 36 km northeast of Ujjini and 12 kms from Kudligi. 
14. Halaekote ruins - The word Halaekote means old fort. This village is situated in the plains between two hills with scattered rock formations. On the hills are ruins of fort walls, it looks like the fort construction was abandoned much before completion. The village has number of temples dedicated to Veerebhadreshwara, including one temple on the northern hill. Halekota is 6 kms south of Siruguppa.
15. Kenchanagudda - This village is situated on the right bank of Tungabhadra. Here are ruins of fortifictions, one on the hillock and other close to the base of the hillock. The fort on the was residence of a local chief named Kenchan Gowda. An inscription dated 1708 CE at Gangadhara Devastana here gives the genealogy of Kenchan Gowda. There's another inscription in the cave of a holy-man named Siddha Mallayya. Also, in this place is a Brindavana of a disciple of Raghavendra Swami. Kenchanagudda is situated 7 kms west of Siruguppa.
16. Sandur - Sandur was the capital of the Sandur State, a small principality, ruled by the Ghorpades. The town is reachable through three passes, Bhimanagandi near Taranagar, Obalagandi towards Yeshawantanagar, and Venkatagiri pass. The name of the town is derived from combining two Kannada words: sandi (narrow gap) + uru (town) = Sandur. It is also said to have been called as Skandapuri after Kumaraswamy (Skanda) shrine. Sandur is well known for its picturesque landscape, an ancient palace, ancient shrines. There's a saying which goes like this: "See Sandur in September" i.e. just as the rainy season ends, when the hills are green and streams are flowing. A popular Kannada cinema "Manasa Sarovara" was shot in this beautiful land. Sandur is a great destination for treks in the mountains and boating in Nari Halla. Sandur is situated 52 km west of Ballari.
17. Sandur fort - Sandur fort - This fort situated on plain land is square in plan. It has a zigzag entrance and bastions. Going by the architecture of this fort, it seems to be originally built by a Hindu king. Later it was taken over by Hyder Ali and some modifications were done. This fort is called as Krishnanagar fort. The fort is situated on the northern side of present day town.
18. Shiv Vilas Palace - This was the palace of Gorphade family now a heritage hotel.
19. Krauncha Giri - This place is known for two ancient temples dedicated to Parvati and her son Karthikeya. Legend says this is the first shrine of Karthikeya in south India. Parvati temple, built in Badami Chalukya architecture, is unique in design and form. The Shikhara is very different compared to other temples of the same period. As to Karthikeya temple, currently called Kumaraswamy Devastana was constructed during the rule of the Rashtrakutas between VII and X Century. Krauncha Giri is situated 11 km south of Sandur.
20. Gandi Narasimhaswamy Devastana - This is an ancient shrine situated on the edge of a hill. Besides the shrine, the place is a picturesque spot. Close to the temple, a stream flows which cuts through a massive rock formation. This spot was one of the locations of "Manasa Sarovara" cinema. Gandi Narasimhaswamy temple is situated 4.5 km on Sandur-Yeshwantnagar road.
21. Ramanadurga - This hill fort is said to be built by the warrior prince Kampli Kumara Rama. Within the fort is a shrine dedicated to Ramadeva. It is said that Kumara Rama was kept hidden for some time for his own safety. The other interesting thing is the Trigonometrical Station here, which is at a height of 3256 feet from the sea-level. The hill is such that on all its sides, the ground falls sharply, thus giving excellent views. Ramanadurga is about 16 km from Sandur and 20 km from Hospete.
22. Hulikuntaraya Devastana, Bommaghatta - This is an ancient temple dedicated to Hulikuntiraya (another name for Anjaneya). Within the temple premises is an ancient stepped well. It is said that Sri Vadiraja Theerta (1480 – 1600 CE) had performed pooja here. Bommaghatta is situated about 27 kms south of Sandur.
23. Prehistoric Ash Mound of Kudathini - This is an important Neolithic site. The ash-mound measuring 700 feet x 150 feet (at its widest) is said to be several thousand years old. Archaeologists have found pottery shreds of large vessels by excavating this mound. Also, burnt & unburnt animal bones have been found in this mound. Kudatini is situated west of 26 km east of Ballari and 28 km northeast of Sandur.
24. Sangankallu Neolothic hill complex - This can be called as the largest Neolithic site of Karnataka. On this group of hills was the Neolithic tools manufacturing center. Stones was quarried and tools like axe, spearheads and grinding stones were made by ancient people. Even to this day one can get to see axe-head, spear-head and heaps of chips as a result of manufacturing activity. For one visiting this hill, its suggested to engage a guide from Sangankallu village. This Neolithic complex is 10 km northeast of Ballari. 
25. Petroglyphs of Kappagallu - On the northeastern face of the Neolithic complex is Dolerite dyke, a heap of dark colored stone. On these stones are hundreds of petroglyph (image made by scratching the surface) believed to be made ancient people. The images depict bulls, birds, serpents, tiger, humans, and formations of human group dances. Anyone trying to explore this part of the hill must be accompanied with a local person and physically fit to endure the clambering over jagged rocks. 
26. Prehistoric Ash Mound of Kappagallu - Close to the base of the hill in the vicinity of the Dolerite dyke is light-grey colored mound which is actually prehistoric ash. This is one of the few ash-mounds remaining in Karnataka.
27. Beerappa rock shelter - To the northeast of the his rock-formation is an ancient shrine. Even to this day local people perform rituals here. Once can find several red-colored paintings on these rocks. There is a possible connection to the Neolithic hill complex. 
28. Kurugodu fort - Kurugodu was under Palayagar Hanumappa Nayaka, the builder of Ballari fort. Devappa Nayaka, a descendant of Hanumappa Nayaka, built this fort on the rock strewn hillock in 1701-02 CE. Within the fort is a shrine dedicated to Lord Hanuman hence the name Hanumantana Gudda. Hyder Ali captured this fort in 1775 and reinforced it. The fort seems to be in ruins but rituals take place in Hanuman temple.  
29. Dodda Basaveshwara Devastana, Kurugodu - This is a historical village where inscriptions dating back to the VII Century CE i.e. Badami Chalukyan times, have been found. During Kalyana Chalukya time, Kurugodu was the chief town of Ballakunde-300 and later this was an important centre during the Western Chalukya rule. However the place lost importance during Hoysala rule. Kurugodu is known for Dodda Basaveshwara Devastana. The main deity being a large Nandi which is about l2 feet tall. Kurugodu is situated 28 kms north-west of Ballari.
30. Sangameshwara Devastana, Halae-Kurugodu - This beautiful temple dedicated to Sangameshwara is situated at the base of a boulders-heap on the western side of Kurugudo. This place is called as Halae-Kurugodu meaning old Kurugodu. Probably the town existed here originally and later shifted to the present location. Besides the temple there's a large idol of Ganesha. Local people call it Dodda Ganesha. About 350 meters east of Someshwara Devastana is another ancient temple called Siddeshwara Devastana.
31. Varavina Malleshwara Devasthana - This place is like a miniature version of Hampi sans river. The scattered ruins, the architecture and the presence of a Frangipani tree was very much Vijayanagara style. It is said that this place was known as Devara Kallu once upon a time. Varavina Malleshwara Devastana is situated next to rocky hillocks 4 km east of Tekkalakote.
32. Nadivi fort - This is one of the river forts on the right bank of Tungbhdra. The fort must have been an outpost during Vijyanagara times. The fort was approachable by boats only when water level in the river was high because of a large rock formation in the river bed. Within the fort is a shrine dedicated to Ramlingeshwara. Nadivi is 10 km southwest of Tekkalakote.
33. Tekkalakote fort - In plan this fort is square-shaped, the walls are approximately 20 feet high and has four bastions, one every corner. The fort's entrance is on its north side. Also there's a small side entrance. The fort seems to be constructed during Vijayanagara times and ruled by  Hanumappa Nayaka's descendants before it came into Muslim rulers' control. There are several other places of interest around Tekkalekote such as Hudeda Gudda (a prehistoric site), Emperor Ashoka's two minor rock edicts at Udegola and Nittur, and Varavina Malleshwara shrine. Tekkalakote is placed 46 km north of Ballari city.
34. Hudeda Gudda - This hill is one of the largest pre-historic sites in Karntaka. The hill is covered with rocky outcrops, several of them are natural shelters fit for human dwelling. In these rock-shelters, prehistoric art depicting bulls and human beings performing group dance have been found. During the excavations of 1964 by Shri M S Nagaraja Rao, artifacts belonging to the new Stone Age period dating back to 1700 BC -1000 BC were found here. Polished stone axes, weapons made of flint stone, gold ornaments, copper, beads, pottery shreds, clay utensils, cysts and bones were among the findings. Hudeda Gudda is situated 2.5 km southwest of Tekkalakota fort.
35. Ashokan edict of Nittur - This is one of the nine rock edicts of Samrat Ashoka in Karnataka. The site is protected, under the care of ASI. Ashokan inscription of Nittur is about 6.5 km west of Tekkalakote and 4.5 km north of Udegola.
36. Ashokan edict of Udegola - This is one of the nine rock edicts of Samrat Ashoka in Karnataka. There are two sub-sites- #1 and #2 which are 150 meters apart. The site is also protected, under the care of ASI. Ashokan inscription of Udegola is about 10 km west of Tekkalakote.
37. Kogali - Today a small village was earlier a chief town of a sub-division called Kogali-500 under Nolambavadi-32000. It was also once an important Jaina centre. Here is a Jaina Basti with a lifesize idol of a Teerthankara. Also inscriptions belonging to the Chalukya, Hoysala and Vijayanagara periods were found here. Kogali is situated 21 km southwest of Hagaribommanahalli.
38. Viranadurga - The name Virana + Durga means brave one's fort. This is a small fort situated on a ragged granite hill. The fort is accessible only from north and impregnable on other sides. It is said that Tipu Sultan's attack on this fort was a failed attempt. Viranadurga is about 6 kms south of Kudligi and a kilometer km west of Moraba.
39. Jaramali fort - Also spelled as Jermali, is a small village next to a rock hill. The hill is approximately 800 feet high and a landmark in this area. Atop the hill is a fort in ruins. It is said the fort was residence of a Palayagar family. Jarmali is about 14 km south-west of Kudligi.
40. Gudekote - After the fall of Vijayanagara kingdom, among the several Palayapattus (principalities headed by Palayagara chief) came into being. Gudekota was one Palayapattu, subordinate to Bilechodu Palayagar dynasty of Chitradurga. Gudekote thrived until its take over by Hyder Ali in the year 1777 CE i.e. two years prior to the fall of Chitradurga. This village is situated between three rock-strewn hills, which are like protective barriers. On the north-western hill is a fort dating back to Vijayanagara times. Close to the entrance of the fort is a rock-shelter with ancient paintings. Within the fort are two water tanks and a brick-mortar structure. The village has remains of several small temples and a royal looking brick-mortar structure. The village has a water tank named as Bommalinganakere. Gudekote is situated at a distance of 32 kms east of Kudligi.
41. Prehistoric paintings near Gudekote - A kilometer away from the town on Gudekote-Rampura road, where the road turns sharply is a huge boulder with a concave face. There's a small red-colored painting on the rock which is definitely prehistoric. Also, in the vicinity are many natural rock shelters which could possibly have paintings in them.
42. Antropomorphic statues of Kumati - This is a peculiar pair of standing statues made of granite slabs. The statues are approximately 9' and 11' tall, 20' apart. Local people associate these statues to two accursed Rakshas turned into stone. Also, on the other side of Kumathi village is a prehistoric megalithic tomb. Kumathi is situated 75 km southeast of Ballari and 23 km south of Gudekote. 
43. Amaradevaragudda - This village's name is derived from the hillock there. On the hillock is a ruined fort. Also, this place is known for a huge Banyan tree. Amaradevaragudda (A D Gudda on Google maps) is about 3½ kms east of Kudligi.
44. Kottureshwara Devastana, Kotturu - This temple is dedicated to a Lingayath Guru of XVI Century CE, named Kottureshwara. The temple is a popular pilgrim center for Lingayaths of central Karnataka. The temple's annual fair attracts thousands of people. In facts people walk from their homes, covering great distances bare-footed. Kotturu is 103 km east of Ballari, close to Ballari-Davangere district border.
45. Huvinahadagali - The name Huvinahadagali can be split into 'Huvina + Hadagali' together it means boat made of flower. The story goes back to Vijayanagara times when this place was known to flourish in the trade of flowers. This village has several Chalukyan temples namely Kalleshwara, Chennakeshava and Suryanarayana. Also there are temples dedicated to Hanuman and Panduranga. Though most temples are in poor state, the delicate sculptures are worth seeing. The fort of Huvinahadagali was demolished in 1866. Huvinahadagali is situated 140 kms west of Ballari and 43 km north-east of Kotturu.
46. Suryanarayana Devastana, Magala - This is a Chalukyan Trikutachala temple dedicated to Venugopalaswami. The south-facing temple is grand in terms of ornamentation of door jambs, chandliers in the ceiling and pillars. This temple is considered as the finest of Chalukyan temples of Ballari district. Magala is situated 18 kms west of Hadagalli close to Tungabhadra.
47. Kalleshwara Devastana, Hirehadagali - This is a Chalukyan dwikuta temple constructed by Demarasa, the prime minister of Western Chalukya empire during the reign of Someshvara I (1042–1068 CE). The temple is highly ornate and one of the finest examples of Chalukyan architecture. Also there is an idol of Nandi inside a separate mantapa. Hirehadagalli is situated 17 km south-west of Huvinahadagali.
48. Bettada Mallikarjuna Devastana - This shrine is on the slopes of the chief peak of Mallappana-Gudda range of hills. Closr to the summit is a natural cave, about 30 feet deep. The hilltop offers a magnificeint view, especially when rainfall is good, the slopes are alive with vegetation. Bettada Mallappa is situated  16 kms south of Huvinahadagalli.
49. Mylara Lingeshwara Devastana - Mylara was a form taken by Shiva to slay the troublesome demons Mallasura and his brother Manikasura. The battle lasts for 14 days. Shiva with the help of Goaravas capture the demons and finally Shiva slays them with his bow. The temple attracts thousands of people during its annual cattle fair. Mylara is situated 23 kms southwest of Hirehadagali.
50. Mallikarjuna Devastana, Kuruvatti - This is an ancient shrine on the hank of the Tungabhadra, dedicated to Basavanna (Nandi). Built in Chalukyam architecture, the east-facing temple has the features of that period such as ornate pillars, door jamb, etc. The temple seems to have undergone changes during Hoysala and Vijayanagara times. Nandi is placed in a separate Mantapa. On the outskirts of this village is Thontadaryya Matha. Kurvatti is situated 25 kms southwest of Hire Hadagali.
51. Ranganatha Swamy Gudi, Holalu -  The temple is noted for its deity, a dark-colored idol of Anantashayana (Vishnu reclining on serpent). The idol is approximately 12 feet long and 2 feet high and made of dark green chlorite schist. A legend connects this idol to the colossal shrine at Anantashayanagudi (near Hospete) which has no deity in the Garbhagudi. Holalu is about 32 km southwest of Huvinahadagali.
52. Ambali - This village is known for its ancient Kalleshwara Devastana, a Chalukyan temple built in black-stone somewhat similar to Bagali Kalleshwara Devastana. Two inscriptions were found here dated 1081-82 and 1105-06 CE which is VI and XIII years of Western Chalukya king Vikramaditya VI. A third inscription belonging to the same dynasty was discovered which is dated 1143-44 CE i.e. during the reign of Jagadekamalla II. Ambali is situated 112 kms south of Bellary and 12 kms north-west of Kotturu.

Info sources:

1. Ballari state website
2. Google Maps
3. Wikimapia.org
4. Wikipedia
5. Other online sources

You may also want to learn about other districts of Karnataka-

1. Bagalkot district
2. Belagavi district
3. Bidar district
4. Bijapur district
5. Davangere district
6. Dharwad district
7. Gadag district
8. Gulbarga district
9. Haveri district
10. Kolar district
11. Koppal district
12. Raichur district
13. Tumkur district
14. Vijayanagara district
15. Yadgiri district

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Chandramouleshwara Devastana revisited - 2

...continued from Chandramouleshwara Devastana revisited - 1.

The previous post covered the interior and part of the southern half of the exterior. Below is the south-western corner. The walls are covered with murals of Kirtimikha, miniature columns, miniature Shikhara and lines of sculptures which look like cooling fins. The rear part of the temple seems to be better preserved compared to the front side.

Here's a plan of the temple showing approximate dimensions and few key items such as the entrance, the central shrine & its deity, the additional deity and an idol of Nandi (D). The temple is symmetrical in both axes. The specialty of this temple is its central chamber with four doors. The deity, a Shivalinga, can be seen from four directions (A). Also a path goes around the central shrine. The additional deity is Chaturmukha Linga ~ four faced Linga which is placed on the western part (D). This is probably the only such Chalukyan temple as I know.

This flower is Chalukyan signature item. It can be seen in different sizes and ways its placed. Here the flowers occupies the space between miniature columns. The flower can be seen in both vertical and horizontal orientation.

The uppermost part of these walls are Hoysala artwork showing Ugranarasimha and a Kirtimukha. When the lands came under different rulers, the temples underwent minor modifications... something was removed and replaced with new art work. In fact Hoysala rulers have modified many Chalukyan temples. The changes have integrated well. The artists respected the work of their predecessors and the sculptors were respected by the rulers.

A closer look at the miniature Shikharas crowning proportional columns. I tried to get a symmetrical picture, I was close but not really succeed. However, the sculptures are symmetrical. The precision in the columns is mind-blowing. If you moved a cross-hair vertically, you'll see the horizontal lines on either sides are on the same level.

The south-west corner seen from the west.

The western entrance of the temple. The other specialty of this temple is the unobstructed view through the eastern and western doors which passes though the central shrine. The mesh work and columns are same as in the front. If you peep through this window, you'll be able see Chathurmukha Linga and also the Shivalinga in the central shrine.

A closer look at the mesh. The plan of the temple can be seen in this work. Look at one 'plus mark' marked within the yellow square. Compare this with the second image in this post, shape matches the plan closely.

This is the north-eastern corner of the temple. The temple walls have three distinct layers- lower, middle and top. On either sides of the middle layer is a line of rectangular blocks. See the black line (hollow space in the sculpture) is perfectly straight through out. That shows the brilliant workmanship of the builders.

These are those rectangular blocks. The more I see them, the more they looks like cooling fins. Who know they could be cooling fins for real. Stones heat up considerably during summers, to the extent they crack open or even explode. The builder might have created these fins to allow faster cooling.

The fins are not just rectangular blocks. Here are curved ones as well. Is this a self-cleaning system? ..drops of rainwater falling on this surface flows down into the channel, repeated flow of water carried away accumulated dust. There could be other purposes.

These are the steps to the rear entrance. This gutter connects the two shrines inside. Builders of this temple built a pipe line below the floor level, passed it below the additional shrine and brought it out of the western side. Other temples'  drainage systems are simpler compared to this system.

Upper part of a column. What an amazing piece of work. Perfect straight lines, right angles and precise angular formation. The precision work creates a feeling that this structure was a sophisticated system to harness cosmic energy.

The other distinct mural is this floral art which encloses different creatures or humans in varying postures. Here we have a dancing Ganesha and his vehicle Mushak. Local folks have applied oil to Ganesha and Mushak.

Human figures in the creeper showing musicians.

One must see the temple with own eyes to feel the beauty. I bow to ancient temple builders, and double bow to Chalukyan temple builders. My tour of the temple was done.

The temple sits on elevated ground. The ground on the eastern side is slightly lower. From the exit point, house tops can be seen. One of the house's chimney is quite interesting. The two apsidal domes made of cement. The cement pipe provided extra ventilation. I'm sure it a kitchen chimney, below it a traditional firewood stove. Unkal village has many old houses featuring classic wooden balconies with cast iron grills. Some of the lanes are frozen in time.

I wanted to show the ladies another Chalukyan temple.. Banashankari Devastana of Amargol which is midway between Hubli and Dharwad.

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