in memory of Malatesh

May 28, 2021
A few minutes before noon today I heard of Malatesh's demise. It was hard to believe that a person so young had to leave this world. Malatesh and I were colleagues, friends and travel-mates. During 2012 and 2013 he had accompanied me on trips to a number of historical and archaeological sites. While I took static pictures Malatesh made video clips of the places. He did a splendid job of shooting and editing videos which were uploaded to YouTube. His maiden trip with me was in June 2012 to Lalguli along with my friends from Hyderabad. We had driven deep into the jungles of Yellapur and then trekked four kilometers into the jungle to see Hanumana Kote close to Kali river. I remember him telling that he had never before been into a jungle like this. At our host's place he asked for beetle nuts to take home. Back at the office after the weekend, he surprised me with a pair of dolls made of beetle-nuts. He had a flair for crafts as well.

2012 July 27th we visited a dozen places over two days, the most prominent place was the megalithic tombs of Hirebenkal. A few days later he had produced a lovely miniature clay replica of a megalithic tomb. He was really good with craft work. He was passionate about music, a die hard fan of Sonu Nigam. In fact, his ambition was to learn classical music at Sri Puttaraj Gavayi Ashram, Gadag but somehow that didn't happen. But he practiced playing Harmonium and Tabla on his own. During our visit to Mudgal fort, we happen to stumble on a cavern which happened to be a prehistoric site with a special rock. The rock when struck with a small stone rang like a metallic vessel. Malatesh was super excited about it, he tapped it with a stone and discovered that the stone gave out seven different notes. Then he played a short note for his small audience. He was lively, energetic, jovial and talented.

Here are a few pictures of Malatesh from our trips..

at Drepung Loseling Monastery, Mundgod

playing a tune on musical rock, Kappagallu, Mar-7-2013

at a hillock near Gajendragad, Nov-24-2012

Onake Kindi, Anegundi Jun-23-2012

Mudgal fort, Dec-25-2012

Krishnae Ficus tree at KUD, Jun-16-2012

Gaden Jangtse Datsang Monastery, Mundgod, Jul-2-2012

megalithic tomb of Hirebenakal, Jul-27-2012

clay replica of megalithic tombs by Malatesh

betel-nut dolls by Malatesh

Om Shanti

.........

ಉಚ್ಚಂಗಿದುರ್ಗ

ಈ ಲೇಖನವು ಆಗಸ್ಟ್ 24, 2013 ರಂದು ಪ್ರಕಟವಾದ ಮೂಲದ ಅನುವಾದಿತ ಆವೃತ್ತಿಯಾಗಿದೆ.

ಉಚ್ಚಂಗಿದುರ್ಗ ಸುಮಾರು ಮೂರು ವರ್ಷಗಳ ಕಾಲ ನನ್ನ ದೃಷ್ಟಿಯಲ್ಲಿದ್ದರು, ಆ ಸ್ಥಳಕ್ಕೆ ಭೇಟಿ ನೀಡಲಾಗಿರಲಿಲ್ಲ. ಹರಪನಹಳ್ಳಿ ತಾಲ್ಲೂಕಿನ  ದಾವಣಗೆರೆಯ ಈಶಾನ್ಯಕ್ಕೆ ಸುಮಾರು 22 ಕಿ.ಮೀ ದೂರದಲ್ಲಿರುವುದು ಉಚ್ಚಂಗಿದುರ್ಗ. ವಿಕಿಮ್ಯಾಪಿಯಾದಲ್ಲಿ ಸಂಶೋಧನೆ ಮಾಡುವಾಗ ಅಲ್ಲಿ ಎರೆಡು ಬೇರೆ ಬೇರೆ ಸುತ್ತು ಗೋಡೆಗಳನ್ನು ಕಂಡೆನು, ಅವೆರಡು ಒಂದು ಕಿಲೋಮೀಟರು ದೂರ ಇದ್ದವು.  ಇದು ಒಂದು ಬೆಟ್ಟದ ಮೇಲೆ ನಿರ್ಮಿಸಲಾದ ಒಂದೇ ಕೋಟೆ ಎಂದು ನಾನು ಭಾವಿಸಿದೆ. ಉಚಂಗಿದುರ್ಗವು ಉಚಂಗಮ್ಮ ದೇವಸ್ಥಾನಕ್ಕೆ ಜನಪ್ರಿಯವಾಗಿದೆ, ಆದರೆ ಇಲ್ಲಿ ನನ್ನ ಆಸಕ್ತಿ ಕೋಟೆಯ ಇತಿಹಾಸ.. ಈ ದೇವಸ್ತನವು ಬೆಟ್ಟದ ತುದಿಯಲ್ಲಿದೆ. ದೇವಾಲಯದ ದೇವತೆಯನ್ನು ಉತ್ತಂಗಿ ದುರ್ಗಾ ಮತ್ತು ಬೆಟ್ಟವನ್ನು ಉಚುಂಗಿ ಬೆಟ್ಟ ಎಂದೂ ಕರೆಯುತ್ತಾರೆ.

ಮಾರ್ಚ್ 6, 2013

ದೊಡ್ಡ ಬಾತಿ ಬೆಟ್ಟದಲ್ಲಿರುವ ಶ್ರೀ ರೇವನಸಿದ್ದೇಶ್ವರ ದೇವಸ್ಥಾನದ ಅಂಗಳದಲ್ಲಿ ಮುಂಜಾನೆ ಉಪಹಾರ ಮಾಡಿ ನಾವು ನಮ್ಮ ಪ್ರಯಾಣವನ್ನು ಪುನರಾರಂಭಿಸಿದೆವು. ದಾವಣಗೆರೆಯಲ್ಲಿ, ನಾನು ಮಾರುಕಟ್ಟೆ ಮಾರ್ಗವನ್ನು ಮೂಲಕ ಹೋಗಿ ನಾವು ತಪ್ಪು ಮಾಡಿದೆ; ಬದಲಾಗಿ ನಾವು ಹೊಸ ಬಸ್ ನಿಲ್ದಾಣದವರೆಗೆ ಮುಖ್ಯ ರಸ್ತೆಯ ಮೂಲಕ ಹೋಗಿ ನಂತರ ಉಚ್ಚಂಗಿದುರ್ಗದ ಕಡೆಗೆ ಎಡಕ್ಕೆ ತಿರುಗಬಹುದಿತ್ತು. ದಾವಣಗೆರೆಯಿಂದ ನಮ್ಮ ಪ್ರಯಾಣ ಸುಗಮವಾಗಿತ್ತು.  ಉಚ್ಚಂಡಿದುರ್ಗ ಇನ್ನು ಹತ್ತು ಕಿಲೋಮೀಟರ್ ಇರುವಾಗ ಬೆಟ್ಟ ಕಂಡಿತು. ದಾವಣಗೆರೆಯಿಂದ ಹೋಗುವಾಗ ನಾವು ಬೆಟ್ಟದ ಪಶ್ಚಿಮ ಮುಖವನ್ನು ನೋಡುತ್ತೇವೆ ಆದರೆ ಬೆಟ್ಟದ ಮೇಲೆ ಹೋಗುವ ರಸ್ತೆ ಪೂರ್ವ ಮುಖದಲ್ಲಿದೆ.

ಬೆಟ್ಟದ ಮೇಲಿನ ರಸ್ತೆ ಸುಮಾರು 800 ಮೀ ಉದ್ದವಿದೆ. ರಸ್ತೆಯು ಬೆಟ್ಟದ ಪೂರ್ವ ಮುಖದಲ್ಲಿರುವ ಹೆಬ್ಬಾಗಿಲನ ತನಕ ಹೋಗುತ್ತದೆ. ವಾಹನಗಳನ್ನ ಇಲ್ಲೇ ನಿಲ್ಲಿಸು, ಇಲ್ಲಿಂದ ಬೆಟ್ಟದ ತುದಿಯಲ್ಲಿರುವ ದೇವಸ್ಥಾನಕ್ಕೆ ನಡೆದುಕೊಂಡು ಹೋಗಬೇಕು.

ನಾವು ಬೆಟ್ಟದ ನಡುವಿನಲ್ಲಿದ್ದೇವೆ. ಬಲಭಾಗದಲ್ಲಿ ಕಾಣುವುದು ಒಳಗಿನ ಕೋಟೆ. ಈ ಕೋಟೆಗೆ ಹಲವಾರು ಸುತ್ತುಗಳಿವೆಯಂದು ತೋರುತ್ತದೆ. 

ಸುತ್ತಮುತ್ತಲಿನ ಉತ್ತಮ ನೋಟವನ್ನು ಪಡೆಯಲು ನಾವು ಇತರ ಶಿಖರವನ್ನು ಏರುತ್ತೇವೆ. ಈ ಬೇಟಕ್ಕೆ ಎರೆಡು ಶಿಖರಗಳಿವೆ, ಎದುರಿಗೆ ಕಾಣುವುದು ಒಂದು ಶಿಖರ, ಮತ್ತೊಂದು ನಮ್ಮ ಹಿಂದೆ ಇದೆ. ಹಿಂದಿರುವ ಶಿಖರವು ಚಿಕ್ಕದು, ಅದನ್ನು ಏರಿದಿವು.  ಕೆಳಗಿನ ಈ ಚಿತ್ರದಲ್ಲಿ ನೀವು ಮೂರು ಹೆಬ್ಬಾಗಿಲುಗಳನ್ನು ನೋಡಬಹುದು.

ಇದು ಬೆಟ್ಟದ ಪಶ್ಚಿಮ ಮುಖ ಮತ್ತು ಅದರ ಮೇಲಿರುವ ಕೋಟೆಯ ಅವಶೇಷಗಳು.

ಇದು ದಕ್ಷಿಣ ಕಡೆಯ ನೋಟ; ಇಲ್ಲಿ ಮತ್ತೊಂದು ಗುಡ್ಡದ ಮೇಲೆ ಕೋಟೆ ಗೋಡೆಗಳನ್ನು ಕಾಣಬಹುದು. ಆ ಕೋಟೆ ಉಚಂಗಿದುರ್ಗದ ಒಂದು ಭಾಗವೇ ಎಂದು ನನಗೆ ಅನುಮಾನ ಬಂತು. ಕೆಳಗಿನ ಬಲಭಾಗದಲ್ಲಿ ಹಲವಾರು ಗೋರಿಗಳು, ಗ್ರಾನೈಟ್ ಚಪ್ಪಡಿಗಳಿಂದ ಮಾಡಿದ ಸರಳ ಗೋರಿಗಳು ಇದ್ದವು ಆದರೆ ಅದು ಪ್ರಾಚೀನವೆಂದು ತೋರುತ್ತದೆ. ನಾವು ಕೆಳಗಿಳಿಯುವ ಸಾಹಸ ಮಾಡಲಿಲ್ಲ.

ಇದು ಇನ್ನೊಂದು ಶಿಖರ, ಆ ಗೋಪುರದವರೆಗೆ ಗೋಡೆಯು ಕಾಣಿಸುತ್ತದೆ. ಗೋಪುರದ ಸ್ವಲ್ಪ ಕೆಳಗೆ ಒಂದು ಸಣ್ಣ ದೇವಾಲಯವನ್ನು ಕಾಣಬಹುದು.

ಉಚಂಗಿದುರ್ಗ ಖಂಡಿತವಾಗಿಯೂ ಒಂದು ಪ್ರಮುಖ ಕೇಂದ್ರವಾಗಿತ್ತು, ಬೆಟ್ಟವು ಸುತ್ತಮುತ್ತಲಿನ ಬಯಲು ಪ್ರದೇಶಗಳ ನೋಟವನ್ನು ವಿವರವಾಗಿ ನೀಡುತ್ತದೆ. ಬಹುಶಃ ಇದು ಈ ಪ್ರದೇಶದಲ್ಲಿ ತೆರಿಗೆ ಸಂಗ್ರಹ ಕೇಂದ್ರವಾಗಿತ್ತು.

ಎರಡನೆಯ ಶಿಖರವು ಮೊದಲ ಶಿಖರದ ಸ್ಪಷ್ಟ ನೋಟವನ್ನು ನೀಡುತ್ತದೆ, ಆದ್ದರಿಂದ ಇದು ವಾಚ್ ಟವರ್ ಆಗಿ ಕಾರ್ಯನಿರ್ವಹಿಸುತ್ತಿತ್ತು. ಈ ಕೋಟೆಯ ಮೇಲೆ ದಾಳಿ ಮಾಡುವುದು ಸುಲಭವಲ್ಲ.

ಅದು ಮೇಲ್ಭಾಗದಲ್ಲಿರುವ ಉಚಂಗಮ್ಮ ದೇವಸ್ಥಾನ. ದುಃಖಕರವೆಂದರೆ ರಚನೆಯು ಆಧುನಿಕವಾಗಿದೆ ಮತ್ತು ಹಲವು ವಿಸ್ತರಣೆಗಳನ್ನು ಹೊಂದಿದೆ. ಬಲಭಾಗದಲ್ಲಿ ಒಳಗಿನ ಕೋಟೆಯ ಗೋಪುರವಿದೆ.

ಅವಲೋಕನವನ್ನು ನೋಡಿದ ನಾವು ಶಿಖರವನ್ನು ಇಳಿದು ಹೆಬ್ಬಾಗಿಲಕಡೆ ಬಂದು ದೇವಸ್ಥಾನದ ಕಡೆ ಹೊರಟೆವು. ಪ್ರಾಚೀನ ಮೆಟ್ಟಿಲು ನಮ್ಮ ಏರಿಕೆಯನ್ನು ಸುಲಭಗೊಳಿಸುತ್ತದೆ. ಕೋಟೆಯ ಈ ಭಾಗವನ್ನು ನಿಗಾವಹಿಸಿ ಕಾಪಾಡಲಾಗಿದೆ, ಈ ಪ್ರಯತ್ನ  ಮಾಡಿದ ಜನರಿಗೆ ಧನ್ಯವಾದಗಳು. ಇಲ್ಲಿಯ ಬುರುಜುಗಳು ಚೌಕಾಕಾರವಾಗಿದ್ದು, ಈ ಬೆಟ್ಟದ ಮೇಲೆ ವಿಶಿಷ್ಟವಾದ ವೃತ್ತಾಕಾರದ ಬುರುಜುಗಳು ಕಂಡುಬರುವುದಿಲ್ಲ.

ನಾವು ಈ ಹೆಬ್ಬಾಗಿಲ ಮೂಲಕ ಹೋಗುತ್ತಿರುವಾಗ, ಗಮನಿಸಿದ್ದೇನೆಂದರೆ, ಯಾತ್ರಾರ್ಥಿಗಳು ಬಾಳೆಯ ಹಣ್ಣನ್ನು ಹೆಬ್ಬಾಗಿಲಿನ ಎರಡು ಕಡೆಗೆ ಹಚ್ಚಿ ತಿಕ್ಕಿರುವದರಿಂದ ಅಲ್ಲಿ ಹಳದಿ ಕಲೆಗಳಾಗಿರುವದು. ಇದು ಇಲ್ಲಿಯ ಪದ್ಧತಿಯಾಗಿಬಿಟ್ಟಿದೆ.

ಈ ಚಿತ್ರದಲ್ಲಿ ಕಾಣುತ್ತಿರುವದು ಮುಂದಿನ ಹೆಬ್ಬಾಗಿಲು. ಈ ಬೆಟ್ಟವು ಶುಷ್ಕ ಮತ್ತು ಬಂಜರಾಗಿ ಕಾಣುತ್ತದೆ, ಇದು ಕಳೆದ ಕೆಲವು ವರ್ಷಗಳ ಬರಗಾಲದ ಪರಿಣಾಮವಾಗಿದೆ.

ಬೃಹದಾಕಾರದ ನೀರಿನ ಟ್ಯಾಂಕ್. ಅಲ್ಲಿಯ ಜನರಿಗೆ ಇದು ಪ್ರಮುಖ ಜಲ ಮೂಲವಾಗಿದೆ. ಮೊದಲೂ ಕೂಡ ಕೋಟೆಯ ಜನರಿಗೆ ಇದೆ ನೀರಿನ ಮೂಲವಾಗಿರಬಹುದು ಮತ್ತು ವರ್ಷವಿಡೀ ನೀರಿಗೇನು ಕೊರತೆ ಬರುತ್ತಿರಲಿಲ್ಲವೆನಿಸುತ್ತದೆ.

ನಾವು ವಿರಳವಾದ ಒಂದು ದೃಶ್ಯ ಕಂಡೆವು; ಕತ್ತೆಗಳ ಗುಂಪು, ದುಃಖದ ಸಂಗತಿ ಎಂದರೆ ಅವುಗಳಿಗೆ ಮೇಯಲು ಏನು ಇಲ್ಲ ಇಲ್ಲಿ. ಬಹುಶ ಇವು ಅಗಸರ ಕತ್ತೆಗಳಿರಬೇಕು. ನಾವು ಕೋಟೆಯ ತುದಿ ತಲುಪಿದೆವು. ಎಡಗಡೆ ಕೋಟೆಯೊಳಗೆ ಮತ್ತೊಂದು ಕೋಟೆಯಿದೆ. ಈ ಕೋಟೆಯು ವೃತ್ತಾಕಾರದ ಬುರುಜುಗಳನ್ನು ಹೊಂದಿದೆ. ಈ ಕಟ್ಟಡ ಚೌಕಾಕಾರದ ಬುರುಜುಗಳಿಗಿಂತ ಹಳೆಯದು. ನನಗನಿಸಿದಂತೆ ಇದು ವಿಜಯನಗರ ಕಾಲದ್ದಾಗಿರಬಹುದು.

ಈ ಹಳೆಯ ಕಟ್ಟಡವನ್ನು ದಾಟಿ ಒಳನಡೆದರೆ, ಹೊಸ ಕಟ್ಟಡವನ್ನು ಕಾಣಬಹುದು. ಇದು ಕೆಲವು ಮುಸ್ಲಿಂ ಆಡಳಿತಗಾರರ ಸೇರ್ಪಡೆಯಂತೆ ತೋರುತ್ತದೆ. ಎಡಭಾಗದಲ್ಲಿ, ದೇವಾಲಯದ ಒಂದು ಭಾಗವು ಗೋಚರಿಸುತ್ತದೆ ಮತ್ತು ದೇವಾಲಯದ ಹಾದಿಯು ಬಲಭಾಗದಲ್ಲಿದೆ, ಆ ತೆಳ್ಳಗೆ ಕಾಣುವ ಲೋಹೀಯ ಕಮಾನು ಅಡಿಯಲ್ಲಿ.

ಎರಡು ಕೋಟೆಗಳ ಮಧ್ಯ ಈ ವಿಗ್ರಹವಿತ್ತು. ಕೋಟೆಯ ನಿವಾಸಿಗಳಲ್ಲಿ ಒಬ್ಬರು ನನಗೆ ಹೇಳುವವರೆಗೂ ಅದು ಆಂಜನೇಯನ ಮೂರ್ತಿ ಎಂದು ನನಗೆ ಊಹಿಸಲೂ ಸಾಧ್ಯವಾಗಲಿಲ್ಲ. ಆಂಜನೇಯನು ತನ್ನ ಎಡಗೈಯಲ್ಲಿ ಸಂಜೀವಿನಿ ಪರ್ವತವನ್ನು ಹೊತ್ತುಕೊಂಡು ಹೋಗುತ್ತಿದ್ದಾನೆ. ಕೆಲವು ದಿನಗಳ ಹಿಂದೆ ನಡೆದ ವಾರ್ಷಿಕ ಜಾತ್ರೆಯಲ್ಲಿ ಇದನ್ನು ರಚಿಸಲಾಗಿದೆ. ಜಾತ್ರೆಯ ಸಮಯದಲ್ಲಿ ಈ ಸ್ಥಳವು ಜನಗಳಿಂದ ಕಿಕ್ಕಿರಿದಿರುತ್ತದೆ.

ನಾವು ಒಳಗಿನ ಕೋಟೆಯ ಸುತ್ತಲೂ ಹೋಗುವಾಗ, ಇಲ್ಲಿ ಒಂದು ಸಣ್ಣ ಪಟ್ಟಣವನ್ನು ನೋಡಿದೆವು, ಸಣ್ಣ ಮನೆಗಳು ಒಟ್ಟಿಗೆ ತುಂಬಿವೆ. ಇಲ್ಲಿ ಒಂದು ಬಾಲವಾಡಿ ಕೂಡ ಇದೆ! ನಾವು ಬಾಲವಾಡಿಯ ಹಿಂದೆ ನಡೆದು ಹೋದೆವು, ಮಕ್ಕಳು ಟೀಚರ್ ಹಾಡಿದಂತೆ ಹಾಡುತ್ತಿದ್ದವು. ಕೋಟೆಯ ಒಳಭಾಗವು ಕೇವಲ ತೆರೆದ ಸ್ಥಳವಾಗಿದೆ, ನಡುವಿನಲ್ಲಿ ಒಂದು ಶಿವಲಿಂಗು ಮತ್ತು ಕಲ್ಲಿನ ಚೆಂಡುಗಳ ಗುಂಪಿನೊಂದಿದೆ. ಕಲ್ಲಿನ ಚಂಡುಗಳು ಸುಮಾರು ೧೫ ಕೆಜಿ ತೂಕವಿದ್ದವು.

ಅದು ದೇವಾಲಯ; ತುಂಬಾ ಕಾಂಕ್ರೀಟ್ ಮತ್ತು ಕಳಪೆ ಗುಣಮಟ್ಟದ ನಿರ್ಮಾಣವನ್ನು ನೋಡಲು ತುಂಬಾ ನಿರಾಶಾದಾಯಕವಾಗಿದೆ :-( ಜನರು ಸೌಂದರ್ಯವನ್ನು ಸರಳತೆಯಿಂದ ನೋಡಲು ಕಲಿಯಬೇಕೆಂದು ನಾನು ಬಯಸುತ್ತೇನೆ .. ನಮ್ಮ ಪೂರ್ವಜರಂತೆ.

ದೇವಾಲಯದ ಆವರಣದೊಳಗೆ ಛಾಯಾಗ್ರಹಣವನ್ನು ನಿಷೇಧಿಸಲಾಗಿದೆ. ಇತ್ತೀಚಿನ ಜಾತ್ರೆಯ ಪರಿಣಾಮವಾಗಿ ನೆಲವು ಎಣ್ಣೆಯುಕ್ತವಾಗಿತ್ತು. ನೋಡಿದರೆ ಇಲ್ಲಿ ಸ್ವಚ್ಛತೆಗೆ ಅಷ್ಟು ಪ್ರಾಮುಖ್ಯತೆ ಕೊಡುವದಿಲ್ಲವೆಂದು ಕಾಣುತ್ತದೆ. ಹೇಗಾದರಾಗಲಿ , ನಾವು ದೇವಿಯ ಉತ್ತಮ ದರ್ಶನ ಪಡೆದು ಸ್ವಲ್ಪ ಹೊತ್ತು ಅಲ್ಲಿಯೇ ಇದ್ದು, ತಂಪಾದ ಗಾಳಿ ಮತ್ತು ಸುತ್ತಮುತ್ತಲಿನ ಬಯಲು ಪ್ರದೇಶಗಳ ನೋಟವನ್ನು ಆನಂದಿಸಿದೆವು.

ಅಷ್ಟೊತ್ತಿಗಾಗಲೇ ನಾವು ಹೊರಡುವ ಸಮಯವಾಗಿತ್ತು, ಅಲ್ಲದೆ ನಾವಿನ್ನು ಮುಂದೆ ಮೂರು ಕೋಟೆಗಳನ್ನು -  ಕರಡಿದುರ್ಗ, ಉಚ್ಚನ್ಯಾಗಿಪುರ ಮತ್ತು ಕಣಕುಪ್ಪೆ - ನೋಡುವ ಯೋಜನೆಯನ್ನು ಹಾಕಿಕೊಂಡಿದ್ದೆವು. ನಾವು ಕರಡಿದುರ್ಗದ ಕಡೆಗೆ ನಮ್ಮ ಕ್ಯಾಬನ್ನು ನಡೆಸಲು ಹೇಳಿದೆವು.

ಉಚಂಗಿಪುರದಿಂದ ಕಾಣುವ ಉಚಂಗಿದುರ್ಗ ಬೆಟ್ಟದ ದೃಶ್ಯ 

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Hindu Temples: What happened to them

While going through my collection of books, I happened to realize that a book borrowed from an uncle some time 2013 was still with me. The name of the book- "Hindu Temples: What happened to them." I remember reading a few pages before abandoning it. While reading it again this month, I realized the book has another part. It was published by Voice of India publishers of religious and historical books. Their website is called Aditya Prakashan, I found two volumes of this book. Part-1, first published in April 1990, is called 'A Preliminary Survey'. Part-2, first published in 1991, is called 'The Islamic Evidence'. While ordering these two books, I ordered another book called "Heroic Hindu Resistance to Muslim Invaders" first published in 1984. All three books are authored by Sri Sita Ram Goel.

'A Preliminary Survey' gives a very detailed account of destruction of Hindu temples by the invaders from Middle East Asia. The writing is supported with archaeological evidence. The book has a state-wise list of temples along with details of destruction. There's a separate list covering the destroyed temples in Bangladesh. After looting and desecrating the temples, the broken sculptures were used in construction of mosques, tombs, palaces and other structures. The stolen stone idols were placed in front of mosques as steps so that people step on them. The author writes about the true intention of invaders which was not just looting treasure, it was to wipe out Hinduism and establish Islam on. The conquered people were forced to convert to Islam. Those who resisted were killed. In some cases heavy taxes were levied on Hindu population. These books expose the suppressed history of our land.

I skimmed through the list and found the places I had visited. Let me name the sites in Karnataka, Telangana and Andhra Pradesh- Belagavi fort, Bellary fort, Badami fort, Bankapur, Savanur, Sira, Raichur fort, Koppal fort, Mudgal fort, Yadgir fort, Shahpur fort, Hampi, Penukonda fort, Golconda fort, Medak fort, Gooty fort. There are other sites which have been vandalized by the invaders but not mentioned in this book like Manvi fort, Midigeshi fort, Madhugiri fort, and so on. One could name thousands of temples which includes Jain and Buddhist structures. The temple columns below Ek Minar Masjid of Raichur came to light recently when a part of the structure collapsed but this was already listed here by the author. The masjid at Penukonda fort is a Vijayanagara time stone temple which has been covered in green colored paint. It seems the temple had been snatched from a Archaka and handed over to a Mullah. If one visits these sites and observe the Islamic structures, the usage of broken pieces from temples is clear. One need not be an archaeologist to see that. The evidence is clear. The content of these books are not imaginary stuff, just facts.

The case of Ram Janma Bhoomi is discussed by the author. One has to read the book to know the hurdles, the struggle and the sacrifices made to protect our culture. Today when see the Ram Mandir being built at Ayodhya we can smile knowing that the efforts of countless people who fought for centuries didn't go in vain.

The second part i.e. The Islamic Evidence gives transcriptions of inscriptions and other ancient records found at mosques. The transcriptions gives names of temples & places and dates of destruction. They also state who gave the orders and who carried them out, how many Hindu people were converted to Islam, how many sold as slaves, how many killed, if a mosque or tomb was built and so on. 

The third book, as the title says, is about the fights put up by Hindu kings to defend the Indian subcontinent from the Islamic invaders between 636 CE and 1206 CE. Again here the author exposes the cooked up version of our history which projects Hindu kings as weak and submissive. The reality was that the invaders were driven away after every attack. After repeated conquests, the invaders made progress by first conquering present day Afghanistan and gradually reached Delhi. The book has six sections mentioned below-

• National perspective of Indian history
• Arab failure in Sindh, Kabul and Zabul
• Frustration of the Ghaznavids
• Perfidy wins where valor failed
• The lessons we have to learn
• The nature of national frontiers

These books are eyeopeners. Everyone must read them once to know the reality and then we will understand the motives of certain happenings in the current society. Islam is an alien culture and will never get along with Hindu culture or any other religious culture.

Before closing this post, let me quote Blaise Pascal: Men never do evil so completely and cheerfully as when they do it from religious conviction. I wonder if the violent religious conquests by two Abrahamic faiths evoked such a quote in Pascal's mind.

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Maiden climb of Savandurga summit

Visit One

My first visit to the place was time November 1994 with Anish and Gulli, my neighbors and good friends. We went there out of curiosity to see early morning mist at Thippagondanahalli reservoir, a rain water reservoir about 40 km west of Bangalore. We had a wonderful time- fresh cool air, clouds of mist floating around, birds chirping sweet melodies... nothing like Nature. Gulli and I bounced stones off the water surface till our arms ached. We played around like kids until we were hungry which made us head towards Magadi. We stopped at a junction on the outskirts of Magadi We saw a small shop selling vada and tea. We had something like 60 vadas, the tastiest vadas ever. Tea was okay.

We learned about Savandurga from the shopkeeper and decided to go there. Rode our bikes through the woods stopping on and off when something caught our attention. During one of the stops I noticed a few wood-apple trees with fruits hanging on high branches. We managed to fell some by tossing sticks. At Savandurga village, there are two temples dedicated to Veerbhadreshwara and Laxminarasimha. We parked our bikes close to Laxminarasimha Devastana. One of the local kids insists on visiting the temple. A quick visit to the temple and we are on our way to the hill guided by the same kid. By now, the sun was up, beating down fiercely. 20 minutes later we reached the first wall. Another 20 minutes we reached the second wall. We were exhausted, the kid was fine.

We decided that we had had enough for the day despite the kid's attempts to encourage us. There goes our first attempt but I was determined to come back soon.

Back home my mother told that wood apples are not supposed to be plucked. They were supposed to fall off on their own which is an indication of ripe ones. Oh what a waste!

Visit Two

Gulveer and I, were back at Savandurga few weeks later determined to make it to the top. I do not remember how we met our volunteer guide, a local kid. Our guide knew the easiest path but we hardly obeyed him. We trekked wherever we felt was easy, struggled a bit for not listening to our guide.
We went past the first gateway. From this point onward, the path is very steep. This is where most first time climbers give up.

We reached the second wall - point where we had given up during attempt #1.

Our guide encouraged us constantly and we too were determined. Actually, I was the one who was struggling while Gulli and the guide were climbing effortlessly. I hardly paid attention to the sights around us. We reached the ancient stone structure, a guard house. We took more than one hour to reach this point. My heart was beating fast, sweat pouring down my face.

We shared our our breakfast of biscuits, oranges and water with the guide. We were told that the summit was not far from here, in fact the stone mantapa was in sight. The short break let my heart beat come back to normal.

From here the path gets very interesting. It goes through a wide pit covered with six feet tall grass, then a passage through boulders and a short steep climb to the summit where the Basava Mantapa sits on the tip of the peak.

We had made it! Finally I climbed Asia's largest monolithic rock hill. Thanks to our guide and Gulli.

The view was breath-taking!! These pictures give you a rough idea, that's it. You should see, smell, hear, feel and experience the place for yourself.

BTW, pictures in this post were shot during different visits. As you see, some were shot during dry months and some during rainy season.

Since the sun was up we could feel the rise in temperature. Another hour it would get real hot when the boulders start radiating heat. We started our descent which was effortless for me. Gulli was little scared climbing down. Just before the second gateway, we took a diversion towards the first gateway against our guide's advice. The path was very steep, we were on our feet and bottoms, literally sliding down, it was madness. Our guide was scared but joined our crazy adventure.

The trek was fantastic. A totally new experience for me and Gulli too. I'd fallen in love with Savandurga.

After this visit, I visited Savandurga 20+ times. Many were solo visits, quite a few with Gulli and brought many of my friends and relatives here. In December 1996, Gulli and I spent a night on Savandurga. It was another wonderful experience with Savandurga. Then years later I climbed the other hill known as Biligudda and also explored the fort ruins on the sprawling rock bed around the hills.

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Thippagondanahalli and Manchenbele reservoirs from Savandurga

Manchenbele and Thippagondanahalli are two man-made reservoirs with dams to harvest rainwater. These reservoirs supply water to some parts of Bangalore.

Thippagondanahalli was one of our weekend destinations. Once Satish, Deepak and I spent a night camping next to the reservoir, very close to the dam. We pitched a tent, made a fire, had beers sitting around the fire. Our little party went late into the night. Our dinner was ten rolls shared between the three of us. When we ran out of booze, Satish and Deepak went to Tavarekere town which was about about 12 km away, but came back emptyhanded.

When we were thirsty we tried to boil water from the reservoir so that we could drink it. The bottle burst and the water put off the fire. We decided to hit the sack, we got into the tent. It was filled with smoke. What an outing!! Simply unforgettable!

Manchenbele is closer to Savandurga. I've passed by the reservoir several times but never found an opportunity to go close to the water. It's quite big and you can appreciate it's size and beauty better from an elevated position. It's a popular destination for watersports and for movie makers it's a convenient spot.

Both pictures were shot from Savandurga hill top. 

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