Nov 2024
Over a phone call, my primary school friend Naveen Meda conveyed his thought of documenting his family-supported temple at Sokke. Members of Meda family have been financially supporting the Sri Lakshmi Ranganatha Swamy Devalaya at Sokke. Naveen's thought of me visiting the temple and then posting about it was okay with me. We were planning a mid Dec visit but ongoing renovation work was incomplete then. So we put the plan on hold. Naveen would let me know when work was done.
Dec 2025
Naveen called; work at the temple was done. Before I decided the dates, a team of three from Sokke wanted to come to Dharwad. The team had got in touch with Helavara Bhimappa residing at Dombrikoppa, about 16 km from Dharwad. Helevaru is a kind of profession, an ancient one. For ages helavaru have been travelling far and wide, recording genealogical data of prominent families of villages and towns. When any such family wanted their ancestral information, helavaru was one to look for. Besides family trees, related information would might have been recorded in some cases.
The team- Sri Rajanna, his son Sri Vinay & nephew Sri Mohan arrived at Dharwad. We drove to a place called Ambalikoppa and then to Dombarikoppa. For the first time I met a helavara and got to see a few of his books. Those books have been passed down from his forefathers. I was awe at the fact that our society's ancient customs / practices have survived even in the digital age. Truly amazing. Bhimappa is into agriculture for livelihood, and dons the helavaru turban during off-season. I wish Bhimappa prepares his descendants to keep the profession alive, likewise for other helavaru folks.
Bhimappa showed the pages dedicated to Rajanna's family. The family tree began in 1519 CE when Basangoudar broke off from his family in Sokke - this is the original Sokke, in Jagalur taluq. Back then when a family split, it's as good as the village splitting. So with Basangoudar, his supporters followed him followed him and eventually settled in a place and called it Sokke. This Sokke is in the present day Ajjampura taluq. Interesting, isn't it?
Having got the required info, the trio traveled back and I finalized my visit to Sokke.
Dec 9, 2025
I alighted Siddaganga Express at Ajjampura railway station, met Rajanna on the platform, and we drove to Sokke. We had breakfast at Rajanna's home and walked to Lakshmi Ranganatha Devalaya. After a quick visit of the temple, we were chatting about Sokke history. That's when Rajanna suggested that we see Ishwara Gudi which is just 100m away.
This Ishwara Devalaya is an ancient one, it's history dating back to Hoysala times. The temple structure was renovated recently by removing the older stone parts and erecting a brick-mortar structure. Thanks to the people for having given the temple's inscription slab a proper place.
The inscription is pretty well preserved. On studying it closely, the time immemorable image (Shiva Linga, Nandi, Sun & Moon) at the top seems incomplete. Also there's blank space at the bottom, it seems work on this slab stopped abruptly.
This east-facing temple is situated at the eastern edge of the town. Beyond this site are farmlands.
Shivalinga in the Garbhagudi. On the left are smaller idols of Shivalinga and Nandi, probably they were originally placed in the Sabha Mantapa. In the original design, Sabha Mantapa / Ranga Mantapa would have a central space marked by a four pillars. During renovation the central Mantapa was eliminated and an open hall was made.
Nandi in the Sabha Mantapa facing Shivalinga in the Garbhagudi.
Parts of the original structure which seem like they were made during Hoysala period. One of the village folks said that the temple could've been reconditioned with the original parts had they contacted Sri Dharmasthala Manjunatheshwara Dharmothana Trust. SDMDT is an expert in restoring ancient temples and monuments. Working along with the state government SDMDT with financial support from Karnataka state government has restored hundreds of ancient monuments in Karnataka.
Such an invaluable heap. Will the present generation youth even get to know the value of ancient structures.
Besides the ancient inscription of this temple, historical information related to Sokke has been painted on the southern wall. Thanks to whoever is behind this idea.
Below is the transcription of the writeup. The writeup lacks proper punctuation, probably the painter screwed up. I tried to fix punctuation errors but then felt some words are out of place. I've left the words as it, some lines may not make sense, but you catch the gist of it.
ತಲೆಯ ಮೇಲೆ ಸುಂದರವಾದ ಚಂದ್ರನನ್ನು ಚಾಮರದಂತೆ ಗಂಗೆಯನ್ನು ಹೊತ್ತಿರುವ ದೇವಲೋಕ, ಭೂಲೋಕ ಪಾತಾಳ ಲೋಕ, ಈ ಮೂರು ಲೋಕಗಳಿಗೆ ಆಧಾರ ಕಂಭವಾಗಿರುವ ಶಂಭುವಿಗೆ ಶಿವನಿಗೆ ನಮಿಸುವೆ.
ಸಮಸ್ತ ಭೂಮಿಗೆ ಆಶ್ರಯದಾತರಾದ ಭೂಮಿಗೆ ಒಡೆಯರಾದ ರಾಜರಲ್ಲಿ ಮಹಾರಾಜರಾದ ಪರಮೇಶ್ವರನಂತಿರುವ ಸತ್ಯಕ್ಕೆ ಆಶ್ರಯದಾತರಾದ ಚಾಲುಕ್ಯ ವಂಶದಲ್ಲಿ ಹುಟ್ಟಿದ ತ್ರಿಭುವನ ಮಲ್ಲದೇವ ಸಮಸ್ತ ರಾಜ್ಯವನ್ನು ಆಳುವಾಗ ಅವರಿಗೆ ಆಶ್ರಯಿಸಿಕೊಂಡು ನೆಲ-ಜಲ ಸಂಪತ್ತಿಗೆ ನೆಲೆಯಾದ ಜಿಂಬುದ್ವೀಪದ ದಕ್ಷಿಣದಲ್ಲಿದೆ ಪ್ರಸಿದ್ಧ ಭರತದೇಶ, ಇದರಲ್ಲಿದೆ ಕುಂತಳನಾಡು, ಇದರಲ್ಲಿದೆ ಕುಂತಲನಾಡು, ಇದರಲ್ಲಿರುವ ಹಿರಿದಾದ ಗಂಗವಾಡಿನಾಡು ಬಹು ವಿಧದ ಧಾನ್ಯ ಸಂಪತ್ತಿನಿಂದ ಶೋಭಿಸುತ್ತಿದೆ. ಈ ಕೀರ್ತಿಯುಳ್ಳ ಕುಂತಳನಾಡನ್ನು ಆಳುವವನು ಹೊಯ್ಸಳ ಉದಯಾದಿತ್ಯ. ಅತಿಬಲರಾದ ದುರುಳ ವೈರಿ ರಾಜರ ತಲೆಗಳನ್ನು ಕೊಂಡು ಶರಣಾದ ಆರ್ತರಿಗೆ ರಕ್ಷಿಸಿ ಸುಭಿಕ್ಷೆಯಿಂದ ನಾಡನ್ನು ಆಳಿದವನು ವಿನಯಾದಿತ್ಯ ಹೊಯ್ಸಳ. ಚಾಲುಕ್ಯ ರಾಜರಿಗೆ ನಿಷ್ಠರಾದ ಈ ವಿನಯಾದಿತ್ಯ. ದಂಪತಿಗಳಿಗೆ ಶಿವಪಾವರ್ತಿಯರಿಗೆ ಕಾರ್ತಿಕೇಯ (ಸುಬ್ರಮಣ್ಯ) ಹುಟ್ಟಿದಂತೆ ಸಾಹಿತ್ಯಕ್ಕೆ ನೆಲೆಯಾದ ಎರೆಯಂಗ ಹುಟ್ಟದ ಸಕಲಗುಣವಂತೆ ದಾನಶೀಲೆಯಾದ ಏಚಲಾದೇವಿ ಎರೆಯಂಗ ದಂಪತಿಯರಿಗೆ ಮೂವರು ಮಕ್ಕಳು- ಬಲ್ಲಾಳ, ವಿಷ್ಣುವರ್ಧನ, ವಿನಿಯಾದಿತ್ಯ. ಇವರಲ್ಲಿ ದಕ್ಷನಾದ ವಿಷ್ಣುವರ್ಧನ ರಾಜ್ಯಭಾರ ವಹಿಸಿದ. ಶೌರ್ಯದಿಂದ, ದಕ್ಷತೆಯಿಂದ ನಾಡನ್ನು ನಾಡವರನ್ನು ರಕ್ಷಿಸಿದ. ಈತನ ಪತ್ನಿ ಅನುಪಮ ರೂಪವಂತ ಗುಣವಂತೆ ಲಕ್ಷ್ಮೀದೇವಿಗೆ ಜನಿಸಿದವನು ವೀರನರಸಿಂಹ.
ಚಾಲುಕ್ಯ ರಾಜರಿಗೆ ಆಪ್ತನಾದ ಈತ, ಮದದಿಂದ ಏರಿಬಂದ ವೈರಿ ರಾಜರ ಮದವಡಗಿಸಿ, ಶರಣು ಬಂದವರಿಗೆ ರಕ್ಷಿಸಿ ರಣರಂಗದಲ್ಲಿ ತ್ರಿನೇತ್ರದಂತೆ ಮೇರೆದ ವೀರ. ಈತನ ಆಶ್ರಯದಲ್ಲಿ ಇಂದ್ರನ ಅಮರಾವತಿಯಂತೆ ಇರುವ ಸುಂದರ ರಾಜಮಂದಿರಗಳಿಂದ, ಗಿಡ ಮರ ಬಳ್ಳಿಗಳ ಸುಂದರ ಪ್ರಕೃತಿಯಿಂದ, ತುಂಬಿರುವ ಭೂಮಿಗೆ ತಿಲಕದಂತಿರುವ ಸೊಕ್ಕೆಯಾಪುರದ ಆಡಳಿತವನ್ನು ನೋಡಿಕೊಳ್ಳುತ್ತಿರುವನು ಚಂದ್ರಮೌಳಿ ದಂಡನಾಯಕ. ಊರ ಸುತ್ತಲು ಇರುವ ರಸಭರಿತ ಮಾವು ಮುಂತಾದ ಹಣ್ಣುಗಳಿಂದ ಸುಗಂಧವುಳ್ಳ ಮಲ್ಲಿಗೆ ಹೂಬಳ್ಳಿಗಳಿಂದ, ಕಬ್ಬಿನ ತೋಟಗಳಿಂದ ರಸ ಫಲಗಳಿಂದ, ಸುಗಂಧ ಸಾಲಿ ಭತ್ತದ ಗದ್ದೆಗಳಿಂದ ತೆಂಗು-ಅಡಿಕೆ ಮುಂತಾದ ಮರಗಳಿಂದ ಎಲೆಬಳ್ಳಿಗಳಿಂದ ಸುಂದರವಾಗಿದೆ. ಈ ಊರು ಕಾಮನ (ಮದನನ) ಮಂತ್ರ ದೇವತೆಯಂತೆ, ಸುಂದರವಾಗಿರುವ ಸ್ತ್ರೀಜನರಿಂದ ಧೈರ್ಯಶಾಲಿ ವೀರ ಪುರುಷರಿಂದ, ವಿದ್ವತ್ ಸಂಪತ್ತಿನ ಬ್ರಾಹ್ಮಣರಿಂದ ಪ್ರಸಿದ್ಧ ವ್ಯಾಪಾರೀ ಜನಸಮೂಹದಿಂದ ಕೂಡಿದ ಚಲುವಾದ ಭೂಮಿಗೆ ಒಪ್ಪುವಂತಿದೆ ಸೊಕ್ಕೆಯಾಪುರ,
ಊರ ಸುತ್ತಲೂ ಇರುವ ಕೋಟೆ ಗೋಡೆಗಳಿಂದ ಮುತ್ತಿನ ತೋರಣಗಳ ಅಲಂಕಾರದಿಂದ, ವಾರವಿಲಾಸಿನಿ ಜನಗಳ ಗ್ರಹಗಳಿಂದ. ಬಹುಮಹಡಿ ಕಟ್ಟಡಗಳಿಂದ ರಾಜಮಂದಿರಗಳಿಂದ ಸುಂದರವಾಗಿ ಕಂಗೊಳಿಸುವ ಇದು ದೇವಲೋಕವನ್ನು ಮೀರಿಸುವಂತಿದೆ. ವಿವಿಧ ಮತ-ಪಂಥಗಳ ಮಂದಿರಗಳಿಂದ ಬಹುಮಹಡಿ ಕಟ್ಟಡಗಳಲ್ಲಿನ ಸುಂದರ ತರುಣಿಯರಿಂದ ವಿವಿಧ ಅಲಂಕಾರಗಳಿಂದ ಅತಿಭವ್ಯವಾಗಿ ಕಾಣುತ್ತಿದೆ ಈ ಸೊಕ್ಕೆಯಾಪುರ.
ಗ್ರಂಥ ನೆರವು ಶಿವ ಶೋಧ H.M.ನಾಗರಾಜ್ ರಾವ್
ಕನ್ನಡ ಅನುವಾದಕ್ಕೆ ನೆರೆವಾದವರು ಡಿ ಇಸ್ಮಾಯಿಲ್, ಬಿರುರ್
The first paragraph praises Shiva calling him the lord of three worlds- Devaloka, Bhuloka and Patalaloka. This is a traditional way of seeking Shiva's blessing before commencing any work.
The second para states that the Chalukyan descendant Tribhuvanamalla as the supreme leader of the Kuntnala Nadu in the southern part of Bharatadesha in Jambudwipa. Within this Kuntalanaduis the rich and prosperous Gangavadi Nadu. The ruler of this famous Kuntalanadu is the brave Hoysala king Udayaditya. The gracious king's queen Echaladevi bore him three sons- Ballala, Vishnuvardhana and Viniyaditya. Of the three sons, Vishnuvardhana ascended the throne and continued the Hoysala legacy. Vishnuvardhana was succeeded by his son Veeranarasimha.
The third para colorfully describes Hoysala kingdom comparing it to Lord of Devaloka Indra's Amaravati. Sokkepura was a city of Hoysala kingdom, it flourished under the administration of Dhandanayaka Chandramouli. Sokkepura people were brave, beautiful, intelligent and prosperous.
The last para says that Sokkepura was a fortified town with many temples and multistoried houses. People of different castes resided peacefully in this town. The town was like Devaloka.
Well, that's a rather colorful description. Present day Sokke is a small village, to my knowledge there are three temples and no sign of a fort having existed here. The writeup mentions coconut, betelnut and mango plantations which is a reality today. Whoever composed it has mixed present period with the past period. The history of Sokke is yet to be uncovered properly, at least to me it's blurred.
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