It had been more than two years since I'd seen my brother. He was home for a vacation and we had planned a get-together at Dharwad. Besides spending a few days at Dharwad, we planned a tour. The original plan was to spend a day at Bhadravati, then go to Kumathi and lastly Hampi. Bhadravati is where we spent our early years. Deepak wanted to see the town, the house we lived in and the school we went there. Close to Kumathi are two prehistoric sites. Deepak wanted to see one of them- the two anthropomorphic statues. Hampi was my idea, I wanted him to see some of the rarely seen spots in and around Hampi. During one of our chats, the hill-jungle-fort Chandragutti was spoken of and Deepak was interested in it. The route was frozen- Dharwad to Chandragutti - Bhadravati - Kumati - Hampi - Dharwad.
Jan 27, 2025. We left home by 5-45 AM, heading towards Tadas cross on NH48. At Tadas cross we left NH48 and took the road towards Mundgod. The curvy road flanked by greenery was a treat to our eyes. Around 7 AM we noticed a large waterbody to our right, it looked like a good spot to stretch out a bit.
The fresh air worked up an appetite. We had home-packed breakfast of bread, tomato curry and boiled eggs. We resumed the journey, driving nonstop through forest area, open fields, villages & towns until we reached Chandragutti. We went straight to Renukadevi Devastana, parked the Brio at a spot where we expected shade. This was my second visit here.. I was trying to recollect the memories of Oct 8th 2011. I could recall the row of little shops selling flowers, fruits, coconuts and other things needed for the temple rituals. We wore our camera loaded bags and commenced the trek.
A board planted close to the temple outlined the history: Chandragutti, (Chandraguptapura of ancient times) was a stronghold of the Kadambas of Banavasi (third-sixth centuries A.D.), In an inscription dated A.D. 1396 of the reign of Vijayanagara king Harihara II (A.D. 1377-1404), Bachanna, a local chieftain claims to have ruled over Chandragutti later the area was under the Keladi Nayakas.
The Renukadevi temple situated on the summit of an elevated spot and is a large natural cave approached by a flight of steps enshrining a small masked Sivalinga. The place has been associated with saint Jamadagni and his wife Renuka. The colossal hip like boulders in the cave are identified as Renuka in hiding when Parashurama pursued her. The outer facade of the cave forms the vestibule, which is in the Chalukyan style. A pillared hall was added the during Viiayanagara period. Almost at the foot of the Renukamba temple facing west is a temple of Bhairava.
Our destination was the fort so we took the path bypassing the temple slightly. Anybody taking the main staircase to the temple must be barefoot, the alternate is the roundabout path which we took. Even on the path we took there were couple of minor shrines, one is Bairava Gudi, I think. The path we treaded is an ancient one, made of rough-cut stones. Walking barefoot or with slippers can be difficult here, even with shoes we had to be watchful of every step. We reached a steep flight of steps which led to the side of Renuka temple. The path to the fort started from a fork there. I was confused like before, we did a bit of back and forth before taking the right path. The first major landmark were the shallow pond and the gateway in the outer fort walls. In those few minutes two dogs had latched on to us, they would follow us, and lead us at times.
This is the narrow passage in the fort wall. In the background the pond can be seen. Out fur legged friends were sniffing intensely on the shore but rejoined us as we went ahead. The stony path seen here is the ancient one. During rains this place will be maze of crisscrossing streams, water can wash away open soil. I guess that's the reason for paving this part with stones. One thing I was clear about was about the sharp right turn down this path. During the previous visit, it was an effortless climb as though I was guided by some unseen force. That afternoon, weather was pleasant, the hill wore a fresh green look, soil was damp and soft. This time it was a contrast.. dry and warm.
Around 10-30 we passed through a gateway in the inner ring of fortification. We found a shady spot and stopped for a break. From the spot we could see the fortified summit. While I and the two canines rested, Deepak launched his DJI Mini2 for a couple of minutes.
Our destination is just behind those walls up there.
We moved on. This spot is just below the third gateway, a flat open spot. I guess this was a major checkpoint.
A ruined lies neglected on the side of the opening. Not just neglected, it seems to be vandalized on a regular basis. However, it has managed to survive.
The entrance to this opening is just behind the rock, it's a naturally curved path.
In the background is the cannon spot. Deepak and the canines stand camouflaged in the shade. While we sipped water we were concerned about our friends. We poured a little water in a concave surface on one of the stones but our friends didn't bother to have it. May not be thirsty.
The gateway seen from the shady spot. I recall leaving my sandals at this gateway and continuing barefoot. While trekking, it's either barefoot or a pair of thick-soled shoes. Nothing in between works.
Unlike other historical spots, we cannot see any kind of maintenance here. Vegetation is taking over many structures here. Do check out the blog post of 2011 to see the place back then- Chandragutti fort.
In this picture, to the left is a walled water-tank and a stone trough. That trough is surely for horses and cattle. Maybe military had elephants too. During my last visit, the water tank was free of vegetation. This time, the inner space of the tank was filled with small trees and bushes.
Further on, I was expecting another gateway but to my shock it was a huge pile of boulders. The entire structure had collapsed. It was a beautiful gateway, a passage between two high walls. This sight saddened me. I wonder if treasure seekers vandalized a part of the gateway leading to its collapse. We bypassed the pile and clambered up a rather steep stretch. It was so steep that descending it would be too risky.
That's where we reached after the steep ascent. Had we passed through the gateway, we would've come to a narrow hairpin like curve. I remember running into a herd of cows during my previous visit. They were returning home after grazing up here. From here the end of the trail is not far, maybe ten minutes away.
That's the highest point of the trail but not the end.
View from that high point. We made way through the jungle seen below... fortifications, gateways and all.
It was almost noon. We had climbed two hours. Back in 2011, I had reached the end of the trail in 45 minutes. Yeah, it was literally a nonstop trek. I'd started around 4 PM, with just two and half hours daylight, I hadn't the luxury of taking breaks.
From the above view, panning to the right, the ruins come into sight.. water tanks, shelters and walls. Right ahead of me is the largest water tank here. It's pretty deep!
Panning more to the right.. another shelter and water tank. This one is smaller but deep enough to drown a adult man.
Last time here the water level was higher and, a cow was floating in it. I guess the poor little creature must've slipped and fallen in. Surely there was no way for it climb out. I still remember hearing thunder in distance but I wasn't afraid somehow. One of the most unforgettable treks of my life.
Deepak and head down towards the ruins without having to worry about time. In fact, we would need a nice break from the blazing sunlight. I'll continue this story in the following post.. a trip with brother, Chandragutti-2.
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