a view of Rue Cathcart, Montreal

Here are four shots of a street in Montreal. The images are similar except for one aspect. What's impressing is the way two-wheelers are parked. Looks so disciplined.

These pictures were shot by my brother Deepak.

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parrot encroachment

Hampi is a place where history meets nature however, man has messed with flora while fauna is relatively free despite the fact that flora and fauna compliment each other. If one has an eye for the winged creatures pleasant treats are guaranteed. Same with other forms of fauna like mammals and insects.

Here's one example of such a spotting parrots during my visit to Pattabhirama Devastana in Dec 2024. Though there were several parrots flying around noisily, I could capture just one since it was still and within the range of my Canon telephoto lens. It had perched on the temple's outer wall close to a small gap between the blocks. It looks like that tiny gap was the entrance to it's home. Probably there are a couple of chicks in there.

The following morning we got to see a pair of red-wattled lapwing on the banks of Tungabhadra at Chakrathirta.

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forms and manifestations of Vishnu

Hampi is home to countless shrines dedicated to Vishnu. One can see a number of sculptures depicting Vishnu in various forms. The ten forms- Dashavatara -is easy to identify, however the other forms are less known. I too was ignorant of Vishnu's manifestations until I came across this particular site. Under the overhanging rocks are three sets of sculptures. Let's move on to the following images and take a closer look. 

A board planted close by describes this site as follows:

ವಿಷ್ಣುವಿನ ದಶಾವತಾರದ ಉಬ್ಬು ಶಿಲ್ಪಗಳು ಕೋಟಿಲಿಂಗದ ಪೂರ್ವಕ್ಕೆ ಬೃಹತ್ ಬಂಡೆಗಳುಳ್ಳ ಕಲ್ಲಾಸರೆಯಲ್ಲಿವೆ ಇಲ್ಲಿರುವ ಮೂರು ಪ್ರತ್ಯೇಕ ಬೃಹತ್ ಬೃಹ ಬಂಡೆಗಳಲ್ಲಿ ಹಂಸಿಯಲ್ಲಿಯೇ ಅತ್ಯಂತ ಅಪರೂಪದ ಹಾಗೂ ವಿಷ್ಣುವಿನ ವೈವಿಧ್ಯಮಯ ರೂಪಗಳುಳ್ಳ ಶಿಲ್ಪ ಪಟ್ಟಿಕೆಗಳನ್ನು ಕಡೆಯಲಾಗಿದೆ. ಅವುಗಳಲ್ಲಿ ಉತ್ತರದ ಬಂಡೆಯಲ್ಲಿ ವಿಷ್ಣುವಿನ ದಶಾವತಾರಗಳಾದ ಮತ್ತ್ವ, ಕೂರ್ಮ, ವರಾಹ, ನರಸಿಂಹ, ವಾಮನ, ಪರಶುರಾಮ, ರಾಮ. ಬಲರಾಮ, ಮತ್ತು ಕೃಷ್ಣನ ವಿಷ್ಣು ಶಿಲ್ಪಗಳಿವೆ. ದಕ್ಷಿಣದ ಬಂಡೆಯಲ್ಲಿ ನರಸಿಂಹನ ವಿವಿಧ ರೂಪಗಳನ್ನು ಕಡೆದಿದ್ದಾರೆ. ಮಧ್ಯದ ವಿಶಾಲವಾದ ಬಂಡೆಗಲ್ಲಿನಲ್ಲಿ ವಿಷ್ಣುವಿನ ೨೪ ವಿವಿಧ ರೂಪಗಳಿವೆ. ಅವುಗಳೆಂದರೆ ಕೇಶವ, ನಾರಾಯಣ, ಮಾಧವ. ಗೋವಿಂದ, ವಿಷ್ಣು. ಮಧುಸೂದನ, ತ್ರಿವಿಕ್ರಮ, ವಾಮನ, ಶ್ರೀಧರ, ಹೃಷಿಕೇಶ, ಪದ್ಮನಾಭ, ದಾಮೋದರ, ಸಂಕರ್ಷಣ, ವಾಸುದೇವ, ಪ್ರದ್ಯುಮ್ನ, ಅನಿರುದ್ಧ. ಪುರುಷೋತ್ತಮ, ಅಧೋಕ್ಷಜ, ನರಸಿಂಹ. ಅಚ್ಯುತ, ಜನಾರ್ಧನ, ಉಪೇಂದ್ರ, ಹರಿ, ಶ್ರೀಕೃಷ್ಣನ ಶಿಲ್ಪಗಳಾಗಿವೆ. ಇವುಗಳ ಮೇಲೆ ಆಯಾರೂಪದ ಹೆಸರುಗಳನ್ನೂ ಕಡೆದು ನಮೂದಿಸಿರುವುದು ವಿಶೇಷ. ದಕ್ಷಿಣದ ಬಂಡೆಯಲ್ಲಿ ವಿಠಲ, ವಿಷ್ಣು, ನರಸಿಂಹ ಮತ್ತು ಉಘ್ರ ನರಸಿಂಹನು ಹಿರಣ್ಯ ಕಶ್ಯಪುವಿನೊಂದಿಗೆ ಹೋರಾಡುವ, ಹಿರಣ್ಯ ಕಶ್ಯಪುವಿನ ಕರುಳನ್ನು ಬಗಿಯುತ್ತಿರುವ ಉಬ್ಬು ರಚನೆಗಳಿವೆ. ಇವುಗಳು ಪುರಾಣದ ಮಹತ್ವವನ್ನು ಸೂಚಿಸುತ್ತವೆ.

To the east of Kotilinga stand massive steep boulders which have unique carvings of the many incarnations and forms of Vishnu. One can see these on each of the three separate boulders. Dashavatara sculptures are carved on the northen boulder and they include Matsya, Kurma, Varaha, Narasimha, Vamana, Parashurama, Rama, Balarama and Krishna. The southern boulder has the various forms of Narasimha sculpted on it. The boulder in the centre has a uniquely carved compilation of the 24 different manifestations of Vishnu. These incarnations include Keshava, Narayana, Madhava, Govinda, Vishnu. Trivikrama, Vamana, Shridhara, Madhusudhana. Hrishikesha, Padmanabha, Damodara, Sankarshana, Vasudeva, Pradyumna, Aniruddha, Purushottama, Adhokshaja, Narasimha, Achyuta, Janardhana, Upendra, Hari and Sri Krishna. What is exceptional is that these names are mentioned on each carving. On the southern boulder, there is a bas-relief sculpture of Vittala, Vishnu, Narasimha, and Ugra Narasimha is shown fighting with Hiranyakashyapa, clawing at his stomach. These reliefs indicate the importance given to the stories of puranas (mythology) at the time of Vijayanagara.

On this boulder are nine of the ten Avatars- Matsya, Kurma, Varaha, Narasimha, Vamana, Parashurama, Rama, Balarama and Krishna.

The boulder in the middle has a long sculptures with 21 characters. However the site description gives out 24 names: Keshava, Narayana, Madhava, Govinda, Vishnu. Trivikrama, Vamana, Shridhara, Madhusudhana. Hrishikesha, Padmanabha, Damodara, Sankarshana, Vasudeva, Pradyumna, Aniruddha, Purushottama, Adhokshaja, Narasimha, Achyuta, Janardhana, Upendra, Hari and Sri Krishna.

Lastly on the third boulder is a set of sculptures showing Vittala, Vishnu, Narasimha, and Ugra Narasimha. Next to Vittala is an engraving of Hanuman doing namaskara to the 21 manifestations of Vishnu. The engraving seems to be a later addition.

Apart from this groups of sculptures one can see a sculpture of Anantashayana on one of the boulders close by.

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paintings at Anjanadri Betta

Dec 2024. It was an early morning visit to Anjandri with Sridhar. I happened to notice a few paintings on the way up, and at the top as well.

This painting of Shabari offering fruits to Rama and Lakshman. Shabari was an ascetic known for her devotion towards Sri Rama. Her story is a part of Ramayana. During Rama-Lakshmana's search for Sita, they arrive at sage Matanga's ashram where Shabari resided. Shabari, who was awaiting Rama's darshan had collected berries which were offered to Rama. It is said that Shabari tasted a bit of every berry to make sure they were good enough to be offered to Rama. Such was her devotion and love for Rama.

The next painting is a circular infographic with three rings. At the core is a picture of Rama and Anjaneya hugging each other. Rings around the core have Devanagari text of terms associated to spiritual practices, names of four Vedas and lines praising our holy epic Ramayana.

Next is Vishnu Nama painted on a rock which is next to the path connecting the hill's base to summit. The painting seems to be a few years old since it has faded a bit. One has to admire the artistic appeal of depiction of the holy symbol.

Close by are two more lovely paintings- Hanuman as a youth and as a child. Whoever are the artists, their creations are marvelous.

Talking about paintings, one must see the painting of Rama-Lakshmana meeting Sugreeva at Chintamani.

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coconut seller at Chakrathirta, Hampi

On the morning of the 11th December 2024, Sridhar and I arrived at Chakrathirta around 7-45 AM. Close to Yantrodharaka Hanuman Devastana, a local man was setting up his shop. The fresh yellow trumpet flowers, known as Koranekelar in Kannada, caught my attention. Only then I realized that this simple beauty was offered to deities in Hindu temples.

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Prasanna Virupaksha Gudi and Lakshman Tirtha

Malyavanta Gudda is a rocky hill situated off Kamalapur-Bukkasagara road. The hill is mainly known for three things; Raghunatha Devastana, group of Linga and sunsets. Raghunatha temple is part of a walled complex of three temples and a pillared hall (Kalyana Mantapa). The enclosure has three entrances on the southern and eastern sides, both entrances have pyramidal towers (Gopura), the southern Gopura being the tallest. The third entrance, on the western wall, is a simple passage, basically a way to reach the Shiva shrine and group of Linga. The Lingas are situated on either side of a long fissure which is a source of fresh water. This source of water is called Lakshman Thirta. In the Hindu tradition, almost every shrine is situated close to a source of water be it a stream, pond or spring.

You can see water at the lower end of the fissure despite being the dry part of the year. The other aspect is every Linga is accompanied by Nandi.

Next to the upper end of the Thirtha is a shrine called Prasanna Virupaksha Gudi. I think originally it  was an semi open shrine meaning the only shelter was the natural rock formation. The walled structure is a later addition. However it is an ancient structure probably built during Vijayanagara times.

Close to the Thirtha and temple is a broken rock. Looks like the rock was used for construction here.

This is the rear of the temple which is part natural and part manmade. The interior of the temple is a small hall, its ceiling tapers down as we move to the innermost part where the deity is situated. So one has to kneel down inside. That's Sridhar kneeling down next to the Shivalinga (see left inset). A stone's throw from this temple is a big rock formation balanced on two points.

Talking about Sahasralinga, there are two more groups of Shivalinga at Chakrathirtha the place where river Tungabhadra turns northwards.

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Shravana Kumar panel at Hazara Rama Devastana

A vast number of temples erected or renovated during Vijayanara times have entire walls covered with panels of bas relief sculptures depicting stories from Ramayana and other Hindu legends. One such panel that caught my eye during my Dec 2024 visit was Shravana Kumar's story. The panel is situated in the northeastern corner, visible as soon as you step into the temple premises. There are four four panels on this slab with the story progressing from bottom to top. The bottom most panel shows Sharavan walking while carrying on his shoulder his aged parents in baskets hung from a long bamboo pole. The next panel shows King Dasharatha shooting an arrow towards Shravana. Dasharatha is hunting at night and capable of identifying and shooting targets in darkness. Shravan Kumar who is filling a pot with water from a pond is mistaken for an animal and shot by Dasharatha. In the next panel  are two scenes; the grievously injured Shravana tells the king about his aged parents waiting to quench their thirst then Dasharatha finds his parents delivers the sad news. The devastated parents curse Dasharatha that his life would end after being separated from his son. The last panel, not seen here, seems to show a shocked Dasharatha after cremating the aged couple and their son.

In Indian culture the name Shravana Kumar is synonymous to dedication to parents. Such values were inculcated into young minds through stories passed down from countless generations. There are dozens of moral based stories from our legends..

I must revisit Hazara Rama Devastana and find other stories.

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bas relief sculptures at Vijaya Vittala Devastana

Here are three bas relief sculptures on columns of Kalyana Manatapa inside Vijaya Vittala Devastana. There are several of sculptures on the faces of columns of the pillared hall. 

The first one depicts Matsya Avatar the first of ten avatars of Vishnu.

The second one shows two identical Vanara brothers Vali and Sugreeva about to start their fight. In this fight Vali dies but not by Sugreeva's hands. An arrow shot by Sri Rama pierces Vali's chest and eventually dies.

The last image is the scene of Hanuman wrecking havoc with Rakshasa soldiers in Lanka. During the mission of finding Sita, Hanuman had had several battles with the Rakshasas before setting Lanka ablaze and fleeing Lanka.

There are more such sculptures depicting characters & scenes from Hindu legends. I guess this was one of the educational methods employed during the ancient times.

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Watch tower of Dhandanayaka enclosure

One of the few surviving watch tower structures stands in the northwest corner of Dhandanayaka enclosure. The structure's condition is quite good. The structure stands on a large rock-bed and provides a solid foundation. It has only one entrance in the ground floor which is gated and locked. It would've been interesting to seen the interior. In the vicinity of the tower are several sculptures on the rockbed.

Here are two sculptures. Clearly the lower one is a grinding pit used for food preparation. The other one seems like a rod for tying animals like cow or oxen or horse.

A closer look at the rod, it's a rough job. Also there's another grinding stone close by.

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Ganagitti Jaina Mandir, Hampi

Though I've driven past this temple several times, I've never been inside it. The last time I reached here, I was a couple of minutes late. The lady caretaker was locking the gates, time to close and go home. Well, took a few pictures from the outside. Later I learned about two inscriptions here: One is on the tall pillar facing the temple. And the second one is on the standing slab on the left hand side.

A board planted here gives a brief description:

Ganagitti Jaina temple
This Jain temple complex, dedicated to Kunthunatha, the 17th Thirthankara of the Jain faith, was built by Iruga, commander-in-chief of Harihara II, and consecrated in 1386 AD.
The huge lamp-column at the north facing entrance has a inscription to this effect. It is also referred to as the Kunthunatha Jain temple.
It is a typical example of early Vijayanagara architecture and is known for its simplicity of form and design, with influences from the late Chalukya period.
The temple in elevation has a terraced super structure over the sanctum, and a porch to the north and east.

The temple's Shikhara is hidden in this view. It's a pyramidal stepped Shikhara like the temples seen on Hemakuta hill.

At the one corner of the temple premises is a group  of pillars. This seems like an incomplete temple project.

The lamp pillar is really well made. The base is square and it transitions to circular at the top. For a pillar of this size, the finish is really good. I think the topmost square-circular piece is a separate piece, sitting freely over there.

This is the road connecting Kamalapur and Bukkasagar. On the left is the Jaina Mandir and a dirt road besides the Mandir leads to an interesting monument names Bhimana Hebbagilu. It is one of the many gateways around Hampi.

Opposite the Mandir is a manatapa in ruins. Looks like this might have become a major Jaina temple complex had Vijayanagara continues existing for another century.

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Bhogasandra kere last week

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Saraswati Devastana 2, Hampi

 In Hampi there are two Saraswati temples. Saraswati temple-1 is situated approximately 300m south of Krishna Devastana. Saraswati temple-2, a northwest facing temple with three entrances situated on a rocky mound opposite the Octagonal water pavilion.

A board posted next to the monument describes it as follows:
The temple originally Vaishnava, referred to as Tiruvengalanatha in the temple inscription of 1554 AD. Came to be known as of Sarasvathi in later times. The temple faces north and on plan has a Garbhagriha, an Antarala and a Mahamantapa. The Mahamantapa has entrances on the north, east and south. The pillars in the Mahamantapa have bas reliefs of Bala Krishna, Ganesha, Hanuman and Gopika Vastrapaharana. Over the Garbhagriha rises a two-tiered superstructure built of brick & mortar with stucco figures of Balakrishna, Narasimhа еtс.

That's my friend Sridhar standing next to the temple's Garbhagriha. It's an inactive temple, meaning there's no deity in the sanctum.

Certain parts of this four and half century structure had collapsed. It has been restored to the present condition by ASI.

As you see, original building blocks are missing and smaller blocks have been used to restore the structure.

In front of this temple is a manmade dirt platform with a retaining wall.

Do check out the list of monuments at What to see in Hampae.

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aerial shots of Malaprabha at Aihole

Second week of August 2024. This trip was with my friend Karun and his children. The year's monsoon was quite good hence Malaprabha Nadi was flowing gracefully. The first picture is Malaprabha flowing northwards. At the bottom of the picture is Ramlingeshwar temple complex. This is the stretch where Malaprabha zigzags. Ramlingeshwar sits at the turning point where Malaprabha flows northwards.

A little further up a stream merges into Malaprabha. The settlement seen here is Aihole village. Aihole is considered as the nursery of temple architecture. There are close to a hundred temples all built by Chalukyan builders between VI and X centuries. Here temple builders experimented with structural designs, many being prototypes. The successful designs were replicated in a larger scale at other Chalukyan sites.

Another look at the confluence. Most of the temples are on the right bank. There are a handful temples on the left bank which are rarely visited.

Here we have Galaganatha group of temples. In this complex are three clusters. Also there's a dolmen. Next to the temple is a huge Ficus which has assumed the shape of a mushroom. The Ficus is home to birds.

This green circle spans nearly thirty meters. A few years ago when some of the temples were being reconditioned, sculptors used to work under this very tree. Nothing like a natural shelter in hot summer days.

I've seen this Ficus more than half dozen times spanning over a decade. It has always been green. Wish this amazing living being a long life.

The crossroads seen is formed by the crisscrossing of Pattadkal-Aihole road and an interior road. For those wanting to reach Galaganatha temple and Ramlingeshwara temple have to turn at this junction.

Malaprabha snaking through the shallow valley seen from a high point above Aihole hill.

This is the flat-topped hillock of Aihole. On the northern tip is Meguti Gudi and Buddhist Chaitya. Close to the southern tip, on the western side is the rockcut Jaina Basadi, rockcut means it is monolithic. Besides, the Jaina Basadi there are two other monolithic shrines; Ravalaphadi temple and a hollowed out boulder temple. The gently sloping plateau of Aihole hill is an important archaeological site- on it are a large number of dolmen dating back to Neolithic times.

An overhead shot of the rock formations of Jaina Basadi.

Before closing this post, here are links to two older posts which you might interesting and helpful:

• journey of a river - Malaprabha
• what to see in Aihole

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