Pari Bowli - Fairies Well, Ashtoor, Bidar

As I was scanning the area around Bahamani tombs of Ashtoor, I happened to discover a spot marked as "Pari Bowli" which was recognizable as a water-body. It was situated west of Dargah of Hadrat Khalimullahullah commonly called as Chaukandi. I was curious about the spot but there wasn't any description of the place. I added to the list of places to see during our trip.

September 3, 2018
We started our tour of Bidar early morning. Originally our plan was to see the fort and then other monuments. However a security guard's rude behavior made me change the itinerary. So went to Narasimha Jhira first. The place had changed so much in 8 years, too much concrete. I showed Pushpa the cave entrance, she took pictures and shot a video clip. Then we headed towards Ashtoor and first stopped at Chaukandi. We spent about 45 minutes at the white octagonal structure with Kalil Shah who claims to be a descendant of Bahamani dynasty. From Chaukandi, Pari Bowli is about a kilometer, we could've walked but decided to take the car for a tiny off-road drive.

So that's the well local people lovingly call Pari Bowli. On the top-right corner of this picture is a glimpse of Chaukandi. The common thing between these two is their octagonal shape.

That's Chaukandi, as seen from the mound next to Pari Bowli.

The well reminded me of Taj Bowli at Bijapur which is much larger. Water looks clean, its green because of its depth. Whoever made this well also made a room on its eastern side.

The room can be accessed from a narrow passage on the side, along the well's perimeter. A shrub grown out from the wall is home to a group of weaver birds, about a dozen nests here. Pushpa and Kalil stand in the shelter.

Two partially done nests. The owner sits watchfully on its nest. I watched it for a minute or two to take pictures then left it alone to carry on  with its work.

This is the shelter's ceiling, stones are arranged to form a star. The circular stone is the center pin - which is the key to the arrangement. I don't quite remember seeing another star like this anywhere else.

The serene spot. We sat under the Neem tree and had breakfast- biscuits and water. Kalil had filled a bottle from this well, water was as clear as filtered water, it took a mouthful, it was mildly sweet. Kalil said that locals believe this water has medicinal properties, people with health issued consume it or bathe with this water. Coming to its name, its a belief that fairies live in these waters and they come out only during nights.

Isn't it amazing that Nature provides us everything we need, ready to consume. We humans instead of enjoying life in a simple way, complicate everything, creating trouble for fellow creatures. Anyway, lets enjoy the peaceful ambiance for now.

On the left is a platform where one can stand and draw water from the well. This spot is slightly higher than Chaukandi, I'm guessing that water was supplied from this well. It seems like a pipeline existed, probably still there buried in the ground.

Water as seen from the drawing platform, this platform is exactly above the open hall seen earlier. I'm guessing this well to be 60 feet deep. We can see one level submerged here, probably there's another level below.

A bare Jaali Mara trunk. Wondering what caused the tree to get that curvy form.

It was happy to have seen this well. Had I come here by dawn, I might have seen few peacocks. In fact we saw one at Chaukandi, a young male. Also, Pushpa spotted a pair of owls resting in a niche high up in the wall. They seem like husband-wife.

From here we drove down to Ashtoor to see the Bahamani tombs.

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Bili Gudda, Savandurga

Savandurga is a sprawling rock formation. This was one of the important forts during Kempegowda's time and also Tipu's time. The fort walls cover a vast area. Savandurga fort can be divided into three parts- Karigudda, Biligudda and Basavana Durga. Karigudda translated to black-hill, this is more or less a bare rock with some vegetation at the top and eastern face. The summit of Karigudda is the highest point of Savandurga. Biligudda means white-hill, this hill is rocky but covered with vegetation excepting its bare summit. Basavana Durga is a collection of plateau and slopes. This hill is frequently visited by elephants.

That's Gulveer with Biligudda in the background. This picture was taken some time 1995 from Basava Mantapa on Karigudda summit. I think it was our second visit.

Of my 20+ visits to Savandurga I've climbed Biligudda just 2 times but failed to reach the summit both times. The following pictures must have been shot sometime 2003. We were six of us; I; two cousins- Rohin, Basu; two friends- Kiran and his friend Sujoy; and a dog from Savandurga village. These pictures are scanned copies of printed photos shot with a Yashica using Konica films.

This is the gateway to Biligudda fort.

The trial is more or less under cover of trees. This is one of the few open spots. We had carried a machete in case we had to clear thorny plants in our way.

  Part of the fort wall on the slope.

This few yards of rock is quite steep and slippery. We sat and slid on our butts. That's Basu in the foreground.

Karigudda's comes into view as the path passes through the valley. The speck on the summit is Basava Mantapa, also called Nandi Mantapa.

A sheer rock face to our left, we are still ascending.

This part of the path passes through gaps between rocks.

This stretch is through boulders, trees, roots and branches. Rain water has washed of dirt between rock leaving them loose. We had to watch every step.

Passage through a natural tunnel in rocks. We had to cross a 12 feet long, 10 feet deep ditch, the bridge was a half-foot wide log. The only support we had was a rock face which was not really close. One fall could leave few broken bones.

Basu and Rohin wait on the other side of the passage.

Another view of Biligudda.

A natural rock-shelter. Our four-legged friend always stayed with us. I'm wondering how it crossed the log bridge, looks like none of noticed it.

We reached a plateau, the top of the sheer rock face we passed by earlier. A grand view of Biligudda, Basava Mantapa is seen clearly now. We did not see anyone up there.

It was quite windy, had to be careful not to lose balance. Smart thing do is sit or lie down as our friend did.

 Basu is fighting wind :)

A huge pit. Probably a natural one with some modifications by human hands.  Kiran is actually squatting on a narrow stretch. Barely two feet behind him is a 60 feet drop. He's brave to sit there with wind blowing like crazy.

The pit collects rainwater which remains fresh for months.

We spent about 30 minutes trying to figure out a way forward. We had one option but it was too steep and we weren't carrying any ropes. We decided not to risk safety. We rested a while before beginning our return journey. Basu amused himself by flying a plastic bag kite with a thread.

We took the same path down. A grassy stretch, even the ground was covered with grass, very slippery and blind to ditches. One of my steps landed into a ditch toppling me.

At the end end of the grassy stretch is this slope. This few yards of rock is quite steep and slippery. Basu dancing out of joy, he really enjoyed this trek. So did the others. That's the magic of Savandurga.

A word of caution- its good to climb this hill in a large group, with at least one person familiar with the trail. Large groups have a tendency to get noisy, do not disturb the peaceful ambiance. Most importantly climb during daylight and descend while its still bright.
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