Nagarjunasagar and Nagarjunakonda - part 3

..continued from Nagarjuna Sagar and Nagarjunakonda - part 2

Having seen the Megalithic tomb and Simhala Vihara, we arrive at Bodhisri Chaitya. This structure is similar to Uddesika Stupa seen at Simhala monastery, a cylinder with a dome enclosed in an apsidal brick wall. The only difference is the missing half-moon stone at the Chaitya entrance. Another thing- this wall is thicker than the ones seem earlier.

A stone tablet describes the monument as follows-
Bodhisri Chaitya (3rd Cent CE)
Originally this Chaitya formed part of Chuladharmagiri Vihara. The inscription on the floor slabs registered the gifts by disciple Upasika Bodhisri.

Quoting a line from Wikipedia: A Stupa (Sanskrit: "heap") is a mound-like or hemispherical structure containing relics (śarīra - typically the remains of Buddhist monks or nuns) that is used as a place of meditation. So Stupas are somewhat like Gaddigae aka Khabar aka tomb. The structure is designed for meditation, especially the rounded end converges the vision unlike sharp corners which seem to distract. At the base of the hemisphere runs a circular channel, no idea what the purpose is. At the base of a cylinder is a white stone ring which depicts a lotus in full bloom. Here we actually go "around" unlike the conventional square paths around Garbhagudi.

A thought- modern day space observatory buildings resemble this structure. Over the dome view of the Stupa. The sculptors skill in creating this 3D assembly is commendable.

Here's the map of Nagarjunakonda island showing the positions of monuments on it. To cover all the monuments one need to be prepared to walk six kilometers. So its good to arrive here by the first boat in the morning. The boat operators announce that you have one hour, just ignore it, you can take another boat for the return journey, there's no rule that you have to take the same boat for onward and return journeys. However, you have to stick to the operator i.e. Telangana or Andhra Pradesh. Generally its warm here, good to wear light shades of cotton, wear shoes, carry an umbrella, water, citrus fruits and snacks.

Next item on our path is a Hindu temple which was originally built here. There are two or three other Hindu shrines on this hill on original locations. The temple has a Garbhagudi and a Mukhamantapa without roof, not sure if it was ever completed or if was damaged at some point of time. On the right side of the temple you can see a hemispherical object, that's a Stupa, we'll be going there next.

The temple's design is similar to temples built during Vijayanagara or Kakatiyas time. Had it been complete, there would be s stepped Shikhara. There's no deity inside, no rituals performed here.

Lets move on to the Stupa now which is known as Chamtasri Chaitya Griha. A tablet planted here describes the monuments as-

This Chaitya Griha with its votive Stupa was built by queen Chamtasri sister of Vasishthiputra Chantamula for the use of monks living in the adjoining Mahavinaya Seliya Vihara.

Like the stupas at Simhala Vihara and Bodhisri Chaitya this too is apsidal, built of red bricks and grey stone. It looks like every stupa had caretaker monks, it would be their responsibility to maintain and protect it. Also, its a belief that any building should be inhabited lest evil spirits haunt if its vacant.

The white ring symbolizes a lotus. The remains of Buddhist monk or nun enshrined in this Stupa is placed in the Divine flower. Fortunate are those who built this monument.

A close look at one of the slabs on the Stupa. The concentric circles indicate it was turned in a lathe like device. Also, notice the curvature of the slab. All slabs around the Stupas have turn marks on them. This stone is known as Shahabad stone in northern Karnataka.

A stone's throw from Chamtasri Chaitya Griha is the Maha Chaitya. For pious Buddhists, this is the most important monument on this island. In terms of physical size this is the largest Stupa too. In fact Dalai Lama had paid a visit to this monument in 2006.

Description of this monument on a stone tablet planted here-

Mahastupa (re-constructed) 3rd Cent CE
This is the principal stupa found in the Krishna valley and referred to in the inscription on the Ayaka pillars as "Maha Chaitya." It contained a sacred bone relic probably of the Lord Buddha himself. Chamtamula built this Mahastupa under the supervision of the reverend Anand, a disciple of Buddha, during the 6th regnal year of the King Sri Virupashadatta of the Ikshvaku line (3rd Century CE) of about 27.5 m marked by ayaka platforms surmounted by ayaka pillars in the four cardinal directions.
Now you know why Maha Stupa's significance, because of the possible physical connection with Gautama Buddha. The white column seen here is the Ayaka pillar at the Northern side.

I go around it clockwise. This wall runs around the Stupa, with entrances at the four cardinal directions.

Here's the bird's eye view of Mahastupa. Thanks to Google Satellite Maps and Wikimapia. The overall diameter is 43 meters (140') and diameter of the inner Stupa is 26 meters (85'). Overall height is around 10' excluding pillar height.

A close look at the Ayaka platform and pillars marking South. These are the original bricks which have withstood the test of time.

Another view of the southern platform with its share of pillars.

As I came to this platform i.e. marking west direction, a group of Tibetan Buddhist were offering prayers here. The group included a nun and a monk too. I watched them from a distance.. they had traveled so far to visit this sacred monument which means I was fortunate enough see this as well. The reason for the pillar's importance is the inscription it carries. There's no information about the inscription here so I'm guessing that it mentions the presence of Buddha's bone in this Stupa.

A close look at the Ayaka pillar and its inscription. I'm guessing the text is Brahmi.

The northern platform, this Ayaka pillar is the tallest remaining pillar on this island.

This Peepul tree planted by Dalai Lama on Jan-2-2006. For a 10 year old tree, its quite a slow growing tree but it looks healthy. Thanks to the caretakers.

Most tourists who made it to Maha Chaitya turn and go back towards the museum. I'd to force my companions Pushpa and Bhuvana to join me.. the heat was sapping out our energy. Moreover we'd forgotten to keep hats and umbrellas.

This is the desolate path going towards the two remaining monuments- Aswamedha Tank and Swastika Stupa.

The tour continues in Nagarjuna Sagar and Nagarjunakonda - part 4.

.........

Nagarjunasagar and Nagarjunakonda - part 2

..continued from Nagarjuna Sagar and Nagarjunakonda - part 1

Now we are at the restored remains of Simhala Vihara, a monastery dedicated to monks from Sri Lanka. This structure seen here is a Stupa, as seen from a corner of its square base.

Here's the map of Nagarjunakonda island showing the locations of all monuments. We are approximately at the center.

A small board planted by the archaeology department carries this description.

Simhala Vihara (Circa 3rd Cent CE)
This monastery evidently meant for Ceylonese monks, it is interesting for its two apsidal Chaitya grihas juxtaposed to each other and enshrining an image of Buddha and Uddesika stupa respectively. The moon stone and decorated pillars of the central mandapa are notable features.

This is the Google maps view of  the monastery. Its good to be familiar with the layout before we go around.

The Stupa's north-eastern corner. On its northern face is a pair of staircase positioned opposite to each other (see inset). Tourists are not allowed to climb over it, a very alert security guard makes sure of it. Since these are brick structures they are prone to fast wear and tear.

Behind the Stupa are two more Chaityas, group meditation hall and individual meditation cells. In the foreground are two cells, beyond that is the Uddesika Chaitya and on the right are pillars of the central mantapa i.e. the group meditation hall.

I'm going around the periphery first and then to the center. Here in the foreground is another long hall. I'm guessing this to be a dormitory.

Another long hall. Outside the hall, along the wall is a platform meant for sitting. I was wondering what this stone lined pit was for. It seems to create by caretakers to let rain water in so that the ground dries faster.

A similar seat along a row of cells is finished with stone slabs. Trying to imagine a small group of monks seated here engrossed in a serious discussion. I don't think they engaged in idle chatter but can't say they lacked sense of humor.

At the end of the long seat is the door to the central area. The entrance is decorated with a half-moon step and flanked by a pair of simple sculptures. Half-moon slab at entrances seems to be a standard design here. In the background, towards the left is the statue of standing Buddha.

The central hall with its remaining pillars. These pillars are referred to as Ayaka pillars. In the foreground is another half-moon stone and the sculpted slabs.

Closer look at the arrangement. It seems like a dragon's head with its tongue stretched out and curled. This is the Buddhist version. Hindu temple steps too are flanked by a pair of similar sculptures which are much larger and grander. The tongue actually curls into a deep spiral. On the fly I can quote one example at Shambulingesvara Devasthana, Kundgol.

The central area is enclosed by rows of meditation cells, or they could be monks' living quarters.

While most of the calls are mud-floored here's one with tiled floor. The archaeology department could have created one cell or dormitory completely, I mean full height walls, roofing and windows.

Front view of the tiled floor cell. I think the idea behind the half-moon stone is to avoid sharp edges so that one hurts their feet accidentally.

Lets turn our attention to the two most important parts of this monastery, the two apsidal Chaitya Griha. This one is the Uddesika Chaitya. Griha means house.

The Uddesika Stupa. Physically its a cylindrical structure with a domed top. Notice how carefully the individual pieces are assembled to form a circular wall and the dome. At its a base is a white ring with detailed etchings. I think monks go around the Stupa in clockwise direction. Wondering if this Stupa originally was built to rotate on its axis like a huge Buddhist prayer wheel.

Right opposite to the Uddesika Chaitya Griha is the Boudha Chaitya.

The larger than life-size Buddha is made of white stone, symbolizing peace. Buddha's posture exudes serenity. He seems to be meditating while standing, holding the free end of his clothing with the raised left arm. The detailing of Buddha's robe is amazing. The Chaitya Griha's apsidal design helps focus on the idol i.e. the view converged into Buddha. A square or rectangular chamber\s corners could be distracting but a rounded wall has the opposite effect.

The rear-side view of the Boudha Griha. Of all the temples I've seen there's only temple which is apsidal and that's at Halae Mahakoota near Badami.

One last look at the Stupa of Simhala Vihara. This is the only monument with an idol of Buddha on this island.

From here we go to Bodhisri Chaitya. The tour continues in the next post - Nagarjunasagar and Nagarjunakonda - part 3

.........