Oct 17, 2020

Keladi Rameshwara Devastana - part-2

...continued from Keladi Rameshwara Devastana - part-1.

In the first part we covered the exterior of the three temples in the enclosure. The three temples are Rameshwara Devastana, Veera BHadreshwara Devastana nd Parvati Aalaya. The first two temples are merged into one structure, but their Garbhagrihas are separate, even their Navaranga Mantapas are separate. Parvati Aalaya's Garbhagudi is built of stone but its Navaranga Mantapa is made of stone, brick & mortar and covered in off-white lime.

This is the Navaranga Mantapa of Veera Bhadra Devastana. This the aisle between two lines of columns. On the far end is Garbhagudi wall, on it is a sculpture of Naigamesha, a character from Hindu legend who has human body with goat's head.

The interior walls, just like the external walls are covered with models of temples. Different types of Shikharas have been featured here.

Wondering if the sculptors tried to represent any of the temples that existed or is these are imaginary.

The temple's ceiling is also covered with interesting artwork such as this serpent maze. The sculptor has cleverly looped the serpent's body into a circular maze. One can actually trace the body from head to tail. I tried three times but lost track. May be I must print it on paper and trace the path with a pencil or pen. The diameter of this maze could be 3 feet. If the serpent's body is laid in a straight line it could be 25 feet long. I'm  sure there's science and math behind this maze.

Another serpent maze, this time its lopped into an octagon. This maze is tighter compared to the circular one, my attempt to trace the body went in vain. Let me try it some other time. The other image features six Langur (long tailed monkey), a man and a plant. The top four monkeys seem to be worried of something, even the man is lost in thoughts. The monkeys sitting besides the man are distracted from their worrisome thought. This is a peculiar image, no idea what it conveys.

Probably this is the most important artwork in the ceiling. Gandaberunda, the imaginary two-headed bird which is much more powerful than a lion or an elephant. The bird has held lions in its beaks and elephants in its talons. Gandaberunda is the royal insignia of Mysore Kingdom and offical emblem of Karnataka state government.

This is an elegant piece of artwork. The artiest has made a maze of a creeper. The creeper is looped gracefully and fit into a circle. At the center is a lotus. In fact the ceiling is covered with eye pleasing, clever works of art..

This sculpture features the beauty of geometrical designs. The panel is quite large, probably 40 or 50 such flowers. Ech flower is enclosed in an octagram which in turn is inside an octagon. Four such octagons form an Isotoxal (four pointed star) and each isotoxal holds a flower. Each octagon and  octagram together form eight rhombuses. Even to draw this on paper is not an easy task for us and our ancient sculptors drew it on stone.

One has to sit and look up to these sculptures. Something like day time sky gazing. One can get engrossed in those art and mazes, it can be as good as meditation.

The priests were busy wit the ritual, meaning busy chanting Slokas. So the musical team was taking a break. In think its a family team, father and sons. In the background is the Dhwajastambha. This face features Ganapathi. The other three faces have Veerabhadreshwara, Parvati and Shiva astride Nandi.

This image could be representation of Veerabhadreshwara, an incarnation of Shiva. Veerbhadra depicts anger and ferocity of Shiva. The image features Sun & Moon, locks of matted hair, Trishula, Damaru and a staff like object. Also, there are two other characters- 1. warrior wielding shield and machete and 2. creature with human head on dog's body. They could be Bhringi and his dog. Before moving on, let me point out the scorpion on the pedestal. The scorpion image is quite realistic. If its seen in moonlight, it might looks like a real one.

At the south-east corner of the enclosure are two hero-stones. The larger one is in memory of a warrior who gave up life in a battle. The smaller one is also dedicated to a warrior.

We were done with the tour of the temple and came towards the exit. I noticed a big wooden tank like structure. On checking with one of the temple staff members, I learnt it was a granary to store paddy or rice. Originally there were two such tanks. The temple's lands produced enough paddy to fill in both tanks. The second tank was dismantled few years ago since paddy production is much lesser.

Lastly, the four figurines - two couples of this temple. The two fierce looking characters and two gentle looking female partners. The pegs below their feet indicated they are detachable. I'm guessing these figurines would be mounted on the Devastana Theru ~ temple chariot, during the procession. In fact the chariot was being decorated on this day. The figurines look freshly painted and ready for the annual fair.

Outside, the temple garden is dominated by this Aaladamara.

One last look at the temple before we said bye. Oh, almost forgot telling that the temple entrance has two open halls on either sides. Comfortable place to relax there. Also the wooden beams and rafters of the roof is impressive. There was a man sitting in the hall, suddenly he said photography is not allowed in Hindi. Apparently he was ASI caretaker of this temple, did not speak Kannada. I suggested him to learn Kannada since he's working in Karnataka. His response- its not mandatory to know Kannada. Why are such people even employed where tourism is involved. They need to be trained appropriately. And why restrict photography? Quite baffling.

Stone's throw from the temple is Keladi museum. It looked closed and even were not a mood to inquire. We were hungry, went in search of a spot for lunch.

A kilometer before Sagar town, we saw a new housing layout. We found a spot under a tree, parked the car and pulled out the lunch bag. We sat on the ground, spread newspapers, unpacked jolada rotti, chatni, curds, tomato and cucumber. It was a satisfying lunch followed by yeli-adkee.

Our next stop would be Agoreshwara Devastana at Ikkeri.
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