It was 9 years since my last visit to Lalguli and Hanumana Kote. That trip happened because of my friends Sindhoor & Ravi from Hyderabad. During that trip, my friend Raghu Lalguli wasn't home, his father Shri Narayan Bhat took us to Hanumana Kote. The most memorable part of the visit was Ravi carrying out pooje in an orthodox manner. A colleague from my office, Malatesh had accompanied us. For him this was the first time experience of trekking in a jungle. The jungle weather is mostly sultry and humid, can be uncomfortable at times but the greenery and sights one cherishes.
Raghu and I were in touch. He kept asking me to visit Lalguli but somehow it didn't happen. During one of the conversations, I learned that Shri Narayan Bhat had left this world mid of May 2021. He was a silent person but a warm person, I miss him. A few days later, last week of May 2021 Malatesh passed away. Though we weren't in touch, I miss him. Back to my conversation with Raghu, I told him that we'll visit Lalguli soon. A thought of showing the jungles to my folks had formed.
Last week of June 2021, Durga was with us at Dharwad for a short vacation. Deepak joined us on July 2nd. July-3 we went for a 30+ km bicycle ride and the following day would be for Lalguli.
July 4, 2021
Dharwad to Lalguli is around 85 km, approximately two hours drive including a short stop. We left home by 6-30 am. After exiting Dharwad, I took the driver seat of Deepak's Duster. Of all the SUVs, I found Duster to be a practical vehicle. This opinion had formed even before driving it. Also, I was driving a diesel powered car after years. We weren't in a rush so never bothered to push the Duster beyond 80 kmph. By 7-30 we turned off Hubli-Karwar road and stopped, to stretch our limbs and feel the silence of the jungle. With ample rains, the jungle had a fresh feeling. This is Yellapur-Dandeli road.
Couple of kilometers on Dandeli road, we took a left, a single lane road going deep into the jungle. Another 12 km to Lalguli. We stopped again... this time to let Durga take a few snaps of the scarecrow in a banana plantation.
There are three or four such farms on this road. These lands which were either sold or leased to farmers a few decades ago. Most farms here grow crops organically... banana, betel nut, pepper, sugarcane, paddy, mango, grains, vanilla and few other crops. There are boards declaring that some of the hamlets are fully organic. The land is fertile, this area received plenty of rains, the soil hold water for a long time but the main challenge to the farmers is intrusion of wild animals.
By 8-20 we were at Raghu's home. I was happy to see Raghu's family. I was seeing Raghu's son Partha for the first time, in person. Then there was a pleasant surprise... Raghu's 3 month niece. A sweet little baby demanded all the attention. When she was made to lay down, she would cry. When held in arms, in vertical position, she would calm down. I'm no less than anyone :)
This is the front yard. These poles and beams are kind of permanent fixtures. During betelnut season, a platform is made for drying harvested produce.
Time for breakfast.. dosa, coconut chutney, jaggery, ghee and tea. Raghu told us that dosa is had 360 of 365 days of the year for breakfast. I ate less than normal, a light tummy is better while trekking. Pushpa liked the dosa so much that she had extra. Our hosts kept on bringing dosas, it was difficult to refuse. Just as we were getting ready, a light rain started pouring. we felt it was passing rain but we gathered a few umbrellas and raincoats.
Rain protection gear all set. Next was whether to wear shoes or not. The path would be slushy, shoes can be slippery, hold on to mud and mud ruins shoes. I decided to go bare foot. basis of my decision- its easier to clean muddy feet rather than muddy shoes. Even before I went vocal about my decision, Partha said he's going bare foot. That motivated the rest of the team. So all of us will be walking bare feet.
This is the little canal which flows across Raghu's farm. The canal is fed by a stream which flows close by. This water is filtered and used for cooking and washing. Excess water flows back to the stream. This is the arrangement in most farm lands in this area.
Partha was always at the front and I behind him. A hyperactive kid, always looking for ways to burn energy. Raghu and Deepak were chatting most of the way... guess what? Stocks & shares in the middle of a jungle! Raghu always had an eye on Partha.. his words were like invisible reins. Partha would slow down for a while and back to his usual self in minutes.
A fork in the road. The left branch goes to Hanumana Kote. Its my guess the other road goes to the stream. These jungles are actually plantations maintained by the Forest Department of Karnataka. The original forest is long gone.
Thankfully rain stopped and it was sunshine. The bright sunlight was evaporating rainwater on the trees, the air was getting thicker with humidity.
My feet were burning lightly because of the abrasive pebbles. It wasn't painful, it was like the feet were undergoing an intense massage. I'm sure most felt the same but none spoke of it.
From here the stream is hardly a hundred meters away. The spot had changed a lot because of the bridge construction activity. The machine crushed stones littered around was causing discomfort. We had to tread softly.
During our last visit, we had to wade through the stream to cross it. However after rains the water level is high and flow is faster, difficult or simply not possible to cross it. So a bridge has been made. Work is still incomplete but the bridge is usable. For curing the concrete, betelnut peels has been spread on the surface, to hold rainwater. Walking here was like walking on a carpet. The contrast of treading on pebbles and coir like peels was too much. Despite the warm weather, Durga opted to keep the raincoat on... as a shield to keep the mosquitoes away.
This stream is a major tributary of river Kali. With normal rains, the stream flows through the year.
During my last visit, while Sindhoor and Ravi took pictures, our host Shri Narayan Bhat found a cool spot, sat on a boulder and chewed pan. He was in his own world.. lost in thoughts. The scene is still fresh in my eyes. Hard to believe that he's not with us anymore.
This tree branch was just a foot away from the bridge railings. Partha plucked one or two of these lemon like fruits. I was wondering what fruit it was. I got the answer when Raghu cried at Partha to throw them right away. Partha obeyed promptly. It seems this fruit is like a pest/bug repellent, its poisonous.
The jungle, the stream, the bridge, and us.
From the bridge, its a sharp climb of 200 meters and then it levels off. This hillock is between the stream and river Kali. Because of its location, a fort was being built here but it remained incomplete.
The fort entrance is recognizable because of the stones walls however the walls are just mounds of dirt concealed behind vegetation. The gateway itself is L-shaped. As we step into the fort, the path turns left and this makeshift shelter comes into view. Under that shelter is a beautiful stone idol of Lord Hanuman. Hence this place is called Hanumana Kote.
...this article will continue in the following post- trek to Hanumana Kote - part 2.
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