Oct 30, 2021

Nandi and Hanuman of Savandurga

Savandurga is first known for its size- one of the largest monoliths of Asia. Then its known for its fortifications which are spread over the two hills (Biligudda and Karigudda) and also on the sprawling rock bed at the base of the hill. The other noticeable manmade item on Savandurga is Nandi Mantapa standing at the summit of Karigudda. The four pillared and  crowned structure can be seen from the base of the hill itself. Here's one picture of the monolith shot from a kilometer away. At the tip of the peak is a speck. That speck is Nandi Mantapa.
sometime 1995
Once you start ascending the hill, it goes out of sight until you reach the top of Karigudda. The tip of Nandi Mantapa Shikhara is visible from a point close to the start of a narrow path passing between and under huge rocks. This is my cousin Ashwini standing with two boys we met during the climb some time early 2000s.
The following pictures were shot on Aug-17-2011. Deepak, Vijay (Deepak's colleague) and I had reached Savandurga at 6-30. It was rainy season, the hill was wet and shrouded in mist. This is the rear of the Mantapa. Nandi facing away, looking towards his Lord somewhere far away. During my first visit the Mantapa was in its original form, plain stone look. Someone decided to cover it with a thick layer of lime which wasn't necessary. The Shikhara is brick & mortar, a coating of lime helps preserve it. But lime has a damaging effect on stone. Hoping the people here realize it and remove the lime somehow.
Most of climbs are nonstop. We pause to catch our breath but never sit down until we reach this spot. The moment I reach the Nandi Mantapa, I climb onto it, touch Nandi and then take rest. This spot has its moods depending on the conditions... sunrise, sunny, cloudy, misty, windy. It feels most serene when its misty,. That's Deepak staring into the mist, listening to the sound of silence, as though in a trance.

Here's a closer view of Nandi sitting in his Mantapa. The architecture of the Mantapa is Vijayanagara. It's a well built structure to have stood there centuries absorbing the forces of Nature.. heat, cold, rainwater, mist and wind.
I would like share another picture of Nandi Mantapa, shot in Dec-2007 during my fifth overnight stay atop Savandurga. The Mantapa is seen in early morning light. Imagine the scene minus the flag pole and electric pole.
Every fort in the Indian subcontinent has a shrine dedicated to Lord Hanuman known for his perseverance, pragmatism, strength, sense of humor and selflessness, loyalty & humility. The idol could be small or big, but you'll find one shrine at least. Savandurga too has a shrine dedicated to our god of strength. The idol is sculpted on a rock, facing northerly direction. The idol is unknown many since it is off the main path. During rainy season the narrow path is slippery and hidden behind vegetation. With a little effort one can reach the shrine.
There's our lord in company with Sun and Moon. This is the pose in which Hanuman is usually seen. The lord's disciples have painted the image which is not really required. The natural look of stone is most beautiful.
Here's an older image of the lord, probably 2004, shot in dry weather.
To my knowledge these are the two shrines on Karigudda. I've heard there's a shrine dedicate to Ganesha on Biligudda which is visited once a year by the people of surrounding villages. Then there are temples dedicated to Veerabhadreshwara and Laxminarasimha at the base.
.........

No comments: