Gopalaswamy Honda, Chitradurga Kote

Chitradurga fort was one of the most formidable forts in southern India. The fort's seven tiers encapsulated an entire city. To my knowledge, the outer tiers were occupied by civilians and the core was reserved for the king's family and administrative & military personal. The crucial aspects of the kingdom like the treasury, arsenal, granaries and other essential needs were housed in the core. Of the essential items water is an important item. Chitradurga fort has several water tanks and wells, the largest waterbodies being Gopalaswamy Honda and Akka-Tangi Honda. Once can still see canal systems to direct rainwater to the tanks. Also, a stream flowed behind the fort i.e. on the western side. In fact the stream flows below a complex of rocks adjacent to the walls. The secret passage 'Obavvana Kindi' which is on the western side is right next to the stream. I think a few of the military personal were allowed to use the stream including Obavva's family.

Of all the water tanks, Gopalaswamy Honda is the largest. Its not a natural waterbody i.e. its a manmade one, its a mini reservoir nestled in a valley. A 45 meters long stone wall across the valley is the dam blocks the flow of rainwater in the valley creating a reservoir which is 50m at its widest point and 140m at its longest point. As to the depth it could be 10 to 12 feet in the middle.

The 1975 Kannada cinema Hamsageethe was shot in and around Chitradurga fort. A few scenes of were shot at Gopalaswamy Honda. The water tank is truly scenic, it has a special character to it.

The water tank gets its name from the neighboring Sri Gopalaswamy Devastana. The temple structure is quire simple, rectangular in plan. The temple site is situated on a gradient but the builders have created a level site with retaining walls. The temple must've been an important shrine given the effort behind its construction. Coming to think of it, I have a feeling the temple and water tank was one massive project. As per our traditions, a temple must have a source of fresh water nearby. This site was perfect for a temple and a water tank. High up behind Gopalaswamy temple is a massive rick formation with a standing rock- that spot too is an important shooting location for Hamsa Geethe. Since the lead character of the story happens to spend lot of time there, the stone is named after him- Venkatasubbayana Kallu.

This wall is the southeastern end of the tank. In the background are the ruins of a royal palace. The ruins are spread over a large area, perhaps it should be called a palace complex. Higher up in the background, is the highest point of Chitradurga fort.

This tank once filled could serve the needs for a year or year and half. I'm trying to visualize a scene during Madakari Nayaka's time... soldiers and temple priest bathing side by side and chatting about the siege... wishing it ends for their own good. On the southeastern end is a platform to draw water from the tank.

The corner is where palace attendants would draw up water since that's the closest to the palace complex. The palace complex is situated in such a place that its neither too low nor too high. It has a decent view of the surroundings yet not very conspicuous.

The water-drawing platform. Ancient builders sense of quality was pretty consistent. The rampart walls and this platform walls have the same look and build quality.

The northwatern end of the water tank. That straight wall is the dam which holds this water from flowing down the valley. I guess there's a gate system on the left hand side to let out water which also worked as an overflow system.

There's one arrangement to draw up water in the middle of the wall. I guess there was another one at this end of the wall as well.

As mentioned earlier, on the left hand side of the picture is a canal system to let out water. Or the overflow system.

This picture was shot from the open space in front of Gopalaswamy Devastana. The palace complex had a nice view of the temple. The soft light of early morning sun would light up the temple... what a sight that would be.

From the water tank, I climbed up to see Venkatasubbayana Kallu. On the way I happened to notice this row of granite slabs which happen to cover the canal system to control the flow of rainwater. The canal connects to the water tank.

This is a view of Gopalaswamy temple and a bastion beside it. A temple being a meeting place and also storage place of valuables like gold & silver needed security, hence the bastion where guards could keep vigil.

This picture was shot from a spot close to the passage leading up Venkatasubbayana Kallu. The rock hill on the other side of the tank is where Tuppada Kola is situated. To reach the top, one has to negotiate a steep face. Despite the foot-steps the climb looks daunting, I've never attempted it.

This is the passage connecting to the open yard of Venkatasubbayana Kallu. There are limitations to capturing the intricacies of the place, be it with pictures or words. Once must go and check out the place with own eyes.

Finally, this picture of the fort core was shot from a spot close the highest point of Chitradurga fort. The green surface of Gopalaswamy Honda is visible clearly.

If you ever plan a visit to Chitradurga Kote, do a thorough research, mark the places of your interest and see that the tour starts as soon as the fort is open for public. To tour the fort thoroughly, my estimate is 2 days. Every minute would be worth it and you would still want to come for another tour. Such is the power of Chitradurga.

.........