The idea of this post emanated from Clive Ames' travels across Bali, a province of Indonesia. I've known Clive since Jan 2019 when I was contacted for information about Badami, Pattadakal & Aihole. Since then we are in touch by email and Whatsapp. We share a lot of stuff.. his travels, my travels, my bicycle rides and pictures of creatures of Nature. I've seen a bit of Bali through Clive's eyes, such a lovely place it is. Besides seeing Bali, I also learnt a bit about it's unique culture. One aspect of Balinese culture that appealed to me most is the day of silence- Nyepi. The day marks the Saka New Year on which everything shuts down- no lights, no travel, and no entertainment. Everyone must stay indoors including tourists. It's a time for fasting, peace and inward thinking. Even though Indonesia is a Muslim majority country with a miniscule Hindu population, it's rooted in Hindu culture. Indonesia's national emblem is Garuda Pancasila, a golden Garuda with a shield having five emblems representing the five principals of Indonesian ideology.
Speaking of Bali province is an island filled with volcanic mountains, valleys and a bit of plains. With it's wooded mountain slopes and terrace farming Bali is a photographers' and trekkers' paradise. Then there's the historical part- ancient Hindu temples and XIX Century Dutch buildings. Last but the least, ancient Hindu traditions are active to this day.. the captivating rituals and ceremonies many of which are open to the public viewing.
Here are a few pictures shot by Clive starting with Mount Batur, one of the active volcanoes of Bali, as seen from Kintamani town. The volcano last erupted in 1963. The dark patches on the slopes are lava fields of that time.
Bali has thirteen mountains of which two are active volcanoes- Mount Agung and Mount Batur. Mount Agung also happens to be the tallest. Info stated in the below table has been sourced from Bali.com. The website is a great place to know Bali from a tourist perspective.
Here's another view which has Mount Batur, Lake Batur and Mount Agung. So much wilderness.
That's Mount Agung the tallest peak of Bali literally kissing the skies.
Of the thirteen mountains, nine of them are trek-friendly. Sunrise trekking is very popular activity here. Imagine trekking Agung and Batur and reaching their caldera. What an experience that would be!
Between steep slope of Mount Agung and waters of Lake Batur is a village called Trunyan home of the indigenous Bali Aga people.
I guess this view of Agung peak is from another location, probably on the way to a resort situated on the hill seen in the foreground.
Nestled in those hills are a number of ancient monuments of which Pura Kehen is the most popular. It's situated in Cempega in Bangli Regency. The temple's history dates back to the IX Century CE however it got it's name Pura Kehen in the XIII Century during the Bangli Kingdom period. It is said that this temple was a venue for oath taking ceremonies for the royal officials.
Pura Kehen has three sections i.e. an outer courtyard (Nista Mandal), a central courtyard (Madya Mandal) and an inner courtyard. Most temples of Bali share this format. What we are seeing is the outer
That's Mrs. Ames posing at the base of the staircase. The orange garment is called sarong, it's worn to cover the legs. Visitors are also expected to wear a sash on their shoulders. Visitors are also expected to exercise restraint inside temple premises, like not touching idols, trees and any other object considered sacred.
A pair of Makara flank the base of the staircase. Makara is a mythical sea creature which seems like a combination of elephant, crocodile and fish are posted at entrances to keep evil spirits away. Makara is somewhat like Kirtimukha seen in Indian temples.
The entrance tower as seen from Madya Mandal. On the right hand side we have a small walled enclosure with small sculptures in it.
The inside of the enclosure. I don't know what these idols depict except for the farthest one which seems like a Shiva Linga. Wondering is this enclosure originally had an idol of Nandi too. Those checkered clothes have some significance, must be a local custom.
In the background is a stepped gateway which connects the middle courtyard with the innermost section. The steps are flanked by towering structures which is akin to waist-high balustrades seen in temples of southern India.
Another view of the towering structures. It looks like a Shikhara was split into two and then separated to create a passage. That's just my imagination.
The gateway is guarded by six Dwarapala, the gatekeepers. Again the function of Dwarapala is to keep out negative energies.
This shrine with a 11-tier pyramidal Shikhara seems to be the chief temple of this complex. This structure is known as Meru tower. The tower, like any other Hindu temple tower, is designed to draw cosmic energy into the sanctum.
I'm assuming the sanctum is enclosed by these richly decorated walls. Or possible the sanctum is housed inside with a circumambulatory. At shrine can be accessed by climbing up the seven-stepped staircase. Usually visitors are not allowed into the sanctum, entry is reserved for priests. A lot of sculptures on the pedestal. At every corner there's a winged female idol. Looks like all these idols are guards of the shrine.
Another view of the shrine. At the base of the steps are three mythical creatures. They are so fascinating in photographs itself, can't imagine seeing them for real. In the background are minor shrines, their Shikhara are three-tiered.
The head called as Kala or Bhoma seems to a combination of lion, pig and human features. Its popping eyes and bared teeth depict rage like Ugranarasimha, the enraged form of Narasimha.
The spacious courtyard has plenty of greenery too. The largest tree of this complex is Banyan tree which is said to be 400 years old. Then there are coconut palms and frangipani trees. In the below picture are two frangipanis on which are ferns. The presence of ferns is an indication of continuous rains. Also the lichen and moss coated stones here is an indicator of consistent rainfall.
This tiled roof mantapa seems like a shelter for ceremonial palanquins.
Here we have a stone sculpture of Garuda the eagle, Vishnu's mount. Vishnu is one of the Trimurti, the other two are Brahma and Shiva. In the Hindu traditions, Brahma is the creator; Vishnu is the protector; and Shiva is the destroyer. Garuda is identifiable by its wings. Feathers in the wings are beautifully sculpted. The sculptor has thrown in a lot of imagination.. fangs in the mouth and limbs like a human being. Garuda is decorated with elegant jewelry too. Truly an amazing artwork.
This multi-tiered structure seems to be an open shrine. It's called as pelinggih. If you study the base, it's a mythical creature, a combination of tortoise, lion and human features. It's carrying the shrine on its back. Flanking its head is a pair of sculptures similar to the one present at the chief shrine. This richly decorated structure must be of significance. It seems to be situated opposite another shrine. Probably this is like Stambha (pillar) seen in Indian temples. Stambha have specific names like Vijaya Stanbha (victory pillar). Deepa Stambha (lamp tower), and Garuda Stambha. If you think of Ellora Kailasanatha Mandir, there's a heavy-looking column. This pelinggih here and Stambha there could have a similar function.
Besides stone sculptures, there are some wooden sculptures too. The red-gold combination signifies sacred qualities.
Lastly we have this elaborately decorated wooden palanquin used for ritualistic processions during certain festivals. Those dragons create a feeling that they are pulling the sedan. The artwork seems so much like Buddhist art. For that matter, even the stone sculptures seen in this complex has a Buddhist influence. Let me say this here- personally I see Shaivism, Vaishnavism, Buddhism, Sikhism, Jainism and many other sects as branches of one giant tree called Hinduism.
After having seen Clive-shot photos closely and read about Bali culture, I'm tempted to make a trip there. I think Indian tourists, particularly Hindu people must consider Bali and Cambodia if and when they think of an overseas holiday. Bali offers almost everything a nature-loving tourist wants- greenery, treks, amazing resorts, and beaches. For the fun-loving types, Bali offers its own food & drinks and night-life. Overall, it's definitely a great holiday destination.
Thank you, Clive.
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