sights from Bali

The idea of this post emanated from Clive Ames' travels across Bali, a province of Indonesia. I've known Clive since Jan 2019 when I was contacted for information about Badami, Pattadakal & Aihole. Since then we are in touch by email and Whatsapp. We share a lot of stuff.. his travels, my travels, my bicycle rides and pictures of creatures of Nature. I've seen a bit of Bali through Clive's eyes, such a lovely place it is. Besides seeing Bali, I also learnt a bit about it's unique culture. One aspect of Balinese culture that appealed to me most is the day of silence- Nyepi. The day marks the Saka New Year on which everything shuts down- no lights, no travel, and no entertainment. Everyone must stay indoors including tourists. It's a time for fasting, peace and inward thinking. Even though Indonesia is a Muslim majority country with a miniscule Hindu population, it's rooted in Hindu culture. Indonesia's national emblem is Garuda Pancasila, a golden Garuda with a shield having five emblems representing the five principals of Indonesian ideology.

Speaking of Bali province is an island filled with volcanic mountains, valleys and a bit of plains. With it's wooded mountain slopes and terrace farming Bali is a photographers' and trekkers' paradise. Then there's the historical part- ancient Hindu temples and XIX Century Dutch buildings. Last but the least, ancient Hindu traditions are active to this day.. the captivating rituals and ceremonies many of which are open to the public viewing.

Here are a few pictures shot by Clive starting with Mount Batur, one of the active volcanoes of Bali, as seen from Kintamani town. The volcano last erupted in 1963. The dark patches on the slopes are lava fields of that time.

Bali  has thirteen mountains of which two are active volcanoes- Mount Agung and Mount Batur. Mount Agung also happens to be the tallest. Info stated in the below table has been sourced from Bali.com. The website is a great place to know Bali from a tourist perspective.

Mounts of Bali
Mount	Height (m)	Can be hiked	Volcano status
Agung	3148	Yes	Active
Batukaru	2276	Yes	Dormant
Abang	2151	Yes	Dormant
Catur	2096	Yes	Dormant
Sengayang	2087	No	Dormant
Pohen	2063	Yes	Dormant
Lesung	1865	Yes	Dormant
Adeng	1826	No	Dormant
Patas	1780	Yes	Dormant
Batur	1717	Yes	Active
Merbuk	1384	No	Dormant
Musi	1350	No	Dormant
Lempuyang	1058	Yes	Dormant

Here's another view which has Mount Batur, Lake Batur and Mount Agung. So much wilderness.

That's Mount Agung the tallest peak of Bali literally kissing the skies.

Of the thirteen mountains, nine of them are trek-friendly. Sunrise trekking is very popular activity here. Imagine trekking Agung and Batur and reaching their caldera. What an experience that would be!

Between steep slope of Mount Agung and waters of Lake Batur is a village called Trunyan home of the indigenous Bali Aga people.

I guess this view of Agung peak is from another location, probably on the way to a resort situated on the hill seen in the foreground. 

Nestled in those hills are a number of ancient monuments of which Pura Kehen is the most popular. It's situated in Cempega in Bangli Regency. The temple's history dates back to the IX Century CE however it got it's name Pura Kehen in the XIII Century during the Bangli Kingdom period. It is said that this temple was a venue for oath taking ceremonies for the royal officials.

Pura Kehen has three sections i.e. an outer courtyard (Nista Mandal), a central courtyard (Madya Mandal) and an inner courtyard. Most temples of Bali share this format. What we are seeing is the outer 

That's Mrs. Ames posing at the base of the staircase. The orange garment is called sarong, it's worn to cover the legs. Visitors are also expected to wear a sash on their shoulders. Visitors are also expected to exercise restraint inside temple premises, like not touching idols, trees and any other object considered sacred.

A pair of Makara flank the base of the staircase. Makara is a mythical sea creature which seems like a combination of elephant, crocodile and fish are posted at entrances to keep evil spirits away. Makara is somewhat like Kirtimukha seen in Indian temples.

The entrance tower as seen from Madya Mandal. On the right hand side we have a small walled enclosure with small sculptures in it.

The inside of the enclosure. I don't know what these idols depict except for the farthest one which seems like a Shiva Linga. Wondering is this enclosure originally had an idol of Nandi too. Those checkered clothes have some significance, must be a local custom.

In the background is a stepped gateway which connects the middle courtyard with the innermost section. The steps are flanked by towering structures which is akin to waist-high balustrades seen in temples of southern India.

Another view of the towering structures. It looks like a Shikhara was split into two and then separated to create a passage. That's just my imagination.

The gateway is guarded by six Dwarapala, the gatekeepers. Again the function of Dwarapala is to keep out negative energies.

This shrine with a 11-tier pyramidal Shikhara seems to be the chief temple of this complex. This structure is known as Meru tower. The tower, like any other Hindu temple tower, is designed to draw cosmic energy into the sanctum.

I'm assuming the sanctum is enclosed by these richly decorated walls. Or possible the sanctum is housed inside with a circumambulatory. At shrine can be accessed by climbing up the seven-stepped staircase. Usually visitors are not allowed into the sanctum, entry is reserved for priests. A lot of sculptures on the pedestal. At every corner there's a winged female idol. Looks like all these idols are guards of the shrine.

Another view of the shrine. At the base of the steps are three mythical creatures. They are so fascinating in photographs itself, can't imagine seeing them for real. In the background are minor shrines, their Shikhara are three-tiered.

The head called as Kala or Bhoma seems to a combination of lion, pig and human features. Its popping eyes and bared teeth depict rage like Ugranarasimha, the enraged form of Narasimha.

The spacious courtyard has plenty of greenery too. The largest tree of this complex is Banyan tree which is said to be 400 years old. Then there are coconut palms and frangipani trees. In the below picture are two frangipanis on which are ferns. The presence of ferns is an indication of continuous rains. Also the lichen and moss coated stones here is an indicator of consistent rainfall.

This tiled roof mantapa seems like a shelter for ceremonial palanquins.

Here we have a stone sculpture of Garuda the eagle, Vishnu's mount. Vishnu is one of the Trimurti, the other two are Brahma and Shiva. In the Hindu traditions, Brahma is the creator; Vishnu is the protector; and Shiva is the destroyer. Garuda is identifiable by its wings. Feathers in the wings are beautifully sculpted. The sculptor has thrown in a lot of imagination.. fangs in the mouth and limbs like a human being. Garuda is decorated with elegant jewelry too. Truly an amazing artwork.

This multi-tiered structure seems to be an open shrine. It's called as pelinggih. If you study the base, it's a mythical creature, a combination of tortoise, lion and human features. It's carrying the shrine on its back. Flanking its head is a pair of sculptures similar to the one present at the chief shrine. This richly decorated structure must be of significance. It seems to be situated opposite another shrine. Probably this is like Stambha (pillar) seen in Indian temples. Stambha have specific names like Vijaya Stanbha (victory pillar). Deepa Stambha (lamp tower), and Garuda Stambha. If you think of Ellora Kailasanatha Mandir, there's a heavy-looking column. This pelinggih here and Stambha there could have a similar function.

Besides stone sculptures, there are some wooden sculptures too. The red-gold combination signifies sacred qualities.

Lastly we have this elaborately decorated wooden palanquin used for ritualistic processions during certain festivals. Those dragons create a feeling that they are pulling the sedan. The artwork seems so much like Buddhist art. For that matter, even the stone sculptures seen in this complex has a Buddhist influence. Let me say this here- personally I see Shaivism, Vaishnavism, Buddhism, Sikhism, Jainism and many other sects as branches of one giant tree called Hinduism.

After having seen Clive-shot photos closely and read about Bali culture, I'm tempted to make a trip there. I think Indian tourists, particularly Hindu people must consider Bali and Cambodia if and when they think of an overseas holiday. Bali offers almost everything a nature-loving tourist wants- greenery, treks, amazing resorts, and beaches. For the fun-loving types, Bali offers its own food & drinks and night-life. Overall, it's definitely a great holiday destination.

Thank you, Clive.

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Why You Must Visit Egypt & South East Asia

Mail from my Uncle, Brigadier Vijay Kumar, my father's elder brother.


I happened to tour Egypt just before the recent upheaval & some SE Asian countries last month & I found some interesting & at times amusing observations which we normally do not read in the books. Some of you may travel to these Regions, so here are my observations.

EGYPT

Egypt has the top of the list of the wonders of the World, the Pyramids. They are Wonders not because of the Massive Rock structures but the ingenuity which the Pharaohs used in transporting huge Rock slabs from quarries in upper regions to Pyramid sites when The Nile was in spate & reached the foot of the sites, using massive boats to ferry them. That is the time when farmers had no work & the entire population was diverted towards construction of the Pyramids. They were not the whip lashed slaves we see in some Hollywood Movies.

The Sound & Light shows in Luxor or Giza are unique with Laser Technology used liberally which depicts their History in convincing details. Our parallel shows in the Red Fort or Cellular Jail in Port Blair are no match; you have to struggle to keep off yawning.

War Museum in El Elamin is interesting, constructed on the site of what is considered as the Turning point of the 2nd WW, but they have not preserved the remnants of the Defence Lines on ground which we as soldiers would have appreciated.

6 Oct is their Victory Day & they have 6 Oct Towns & Roads signifying their victory over Israel. Well, the World knows what really happened!

Aam Aadmi of Egypt is wary of the misrule of Husn e Mubarik & family for decades but turns away when questioned as to why they did not opt for a change. There are no jobs & living is expensive, a KG of meat costs an equivalent of Rs 700/-. Tips are mandatory as most of those in tourism industry including Govt employees survive on tips offered by foreigners. We hope the present Revolution & change in Govt will usher in better life for their people. A Nation which gave birth to Muslim Brotherhood that ultimately evolved into Al Qaida ironically could not displace its own ruler till now.


CAMBODIA

Angkor Vat known to be the largest Hindu Temple in the World is large because of the Area it occupies. Their Idols have also been destroyed by marauders (from Thailand) like many temples in India. Some say it is a Wonder of the World but I find that many Temples in India , say Belur & Halebidu temples which are less known, have better & finer sculptures that too made from Black Granite which is harder substance than Sandstone which fills the Angkor Vat Temples. Cambodia, a small & poor country can sell their heritage more effectively than India. There is no mention of Indian Rulers who spread Hinduism to these Regions or Budhism by Emperor Ashoka . Ramayana & Mahabharata are proudly depicted though Cambodia is wary of talking about their origin

Here again the people of Cambodia who suffered Genocide from Pol Pot Regime helplessly watched themselves being killed till they realized that they were helping Pol pot by providing him with Rice by which he bought weapons from China. They united ultimately to stop supplying rice which resulted in the collapse of the Regime. US recovering from the wounds of Vietnam were helpless bystanders.


VIETNAM

A great country that fought the might of America & its allies in 60s & early 70s , comparable to Japan in the WW 2. It is over 30 years since their Inception but the country continues to reel in poverty unlike Japan which in 2 decades of the War rose to be an Economic Super power. This can be attributed to the form of communism that prevails in the Region, highly corrupt Govt, disorganized spending & a foreign policy that keeps the Western world away. Their War Museum in Ho chi Minh City depicts the highly exaggerated atrocities committed by the Americans during the War but say little of their own. Land & sites are not owned by the people but are given as long lease by the Govt which serves as a disincentive for any good development or construction. South Vietnamese were happy till the North took over & cancelled all their ownerships.

Two wheelers are a great sight on the roads. They have separate lanes & move in a constant speed like an Army of Ants.

Tunnels dug by the Vietcong during the war are not just tunnels but underground Townships. Our Field Engineering in the Infantry does not go beyond 3 Man Trenches & Fox holes. I would vote for their tunnels to be chosen as a wonder of the world.


MALAYSIA

A Hindu Kingdom which strangely became a Muslim country surrounded by Buddhist countries. Go back to the times of 11th to 16th centuries when Malacca was the main trading route for the Arab vessels trading with China. In order to establish a better rapport with the Arabs , the Hindu ruler in the 11th century converted to Islam, so by the natural order of things, the people too converted. Rule of Tunku Abdul Rahman , though Autocratic was secular & brought the country on Western lines with beautiful Roads & buildings ( Twin Tower for Example ), but his followers have been fundamentalists, thus preference is given to Muslim population, so the Hindu & Chinese feel rather neglected bur they have their own organs for development such as schools & Hospitals. Notably it is the Chinese & Indians who are the Elite society.

A lot of Indian Agencies are working in Malaysia such as IRCON building their Railway network but they too are not devoid of scandals & scams.


INDONESIA

Bali strangely is an Island with 90 % Hindus amidst a country with 90 % Muslims. Though Al Qaida has its influence in Indonesia, there has been only one bombing incident in Bali which killed 55 Australian tourists, since then the Al Qaida seems to have disintegrated as the Govt has come down hard on them. Al Qaida tried to enhance their net work to Malaysia too but the ring was trapped in Indonesia with cooperation of both the Govts.

Some of the temples in Bali particularly the ones on sea cliffs are awesome for their panoramic profiles, though the quality of sculptures here too is not worth talking about. Don’t give much to their Dances which have been hyped out of proportion.

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