When the idea of Sokke visit came up a year ago I had researched the surrounding areas. A Hoysala monument at Baggavalli was discovered which is less than 5 km from Sokke. A year later the trip was finalized and I was looking forward to see yet another Hoysala temple.
Dec 9, 2026
I arrived at Ajjampura railway station around 9-45 am, met my host Sri Rajanna on the platform and we drove down to Sokke. The first thing we did at Sokke was visit Sri Lakshmi Ranganatha Swami Devastana and Ishwara Devastana. While the latter's history goes back to Hoysala times, the former seems to be built during Vijayanagara or Palegar times. Having visited the two temples of Sokke and with hours of day time ahead my hosts and I headed towards Baggavalli. The road connecting these two villages is flanked by farm lands and plantations, a treat for a city dweller like me. I was dreaming about cycling here.. flat terrain, silent and fresh air ..it would be a wonderful experience.
Sri Yoganarasimha Devastana is situated at the western edge of Baggavalli. We were the only people apart from the caretaker. I go around the temple first. The temple was recently repaired. A few older pictures on Maps were taken during the ongoing reconstruction.
The east-facing temple sits on a star-shaped pedestal, it's front-most section is the pillared hall- Sabha Mantapa -is where village meetings were held.
The structure's outer walls have three tiers, the lowest tier has five layers. Over the walls is the canopy. The rear-most part of the temple which is the sanctum has a pyramidal tower over it called the Shikhara. Such an elegant looking structure.
View of the structure from the west. The same view would be so much more interesting when Sun is closer to the horizon i.e. a couple of hours before sunset.
While I went around the temple, the priest had come and unlocked the doors. My hosts Vinay and Mohan had gone inside. I paused for a few more shots of this hall. This space would look so much different in early morning sunlight when it's lit up in direct light.
In addition the eastern entrance, this hall has two more entrances on its northern and southern sides.
The central dome with a very complicated sculpture of rings, spokes and a hub. This is a signature feature in Hoysala temples- the spoked dome's complexity is proportional to the temple's grandeur. One must see the domes at Somanathapura Channakeshava Devastana.
Only on stepping into the inner hall I realized this temple is a Trikutachala i.e. a temple with three sanctums. The three deities here are Sri Channakeshava Swami, Sri Yoganarasimha Swami and Sri Sharadambadevi. This is the four-pillared Natyamantapa or Rangamantapa. Hoysala temple builders had mastered the art of turned pillars. The surfaces were polished to such an extent that they were as smooth as mirrors. However, here the pillars are turned but not polished. The idol in the east-facing sanctum is Channakeshava.
Every sanctum is connected to this hall via an Antharala i.e. a vestibule. The Antharala and Garbbhagudi doorways have perforated screens. Every doorway in this hall has Dwarapala i.e. doorkeepers.
Sharadambadevi in the south-facing sanctum.
Yoganarasimha in the north-facing sanctum. Each of the idols are so well made that you can't take your eyes off them. Only dedicated minds can produce such sculptures.
We thank the priest for providing us darshan of the deities and step out. I go around the temple again but this time on the pedestal, checking out the relief sculptures on the walls. Most of the characters seen here are different forms of Vishnu. Then there are a handful of musicians playing drums, since the drum is played by both hands they seem to be mridang.
The left-most figure is Krishna in the act of slaying the dreaded serpent Kalia. The two drum players have different types of drums.
Here the right most figure is Govardhana Giridhari - Krishna in the act of lifting mount Govardhana in one hand. Sculptures in some temples show the mountain being lifted with one finger. Most of the sculptures have been vandalized, several times over.
Here we have another type of drum. On the right hand side is the Madhyama Pandava i.e. Arjuna aiming an arrow at a revolving wooden fish by looking at it's reflection in water below. In the middle is a couple, the male seems to be holding a sugarcane stalk. You think it's a sugarcane stalk?
The most eye-catching sculpture at this temple is Ugranarasimha. Vishnu in his half lion, half man form is in the act of ripping open Hiranyakashipu's belly. Notice that there are no other figures flanking Ugranarasimha. Perhaps it's a way of depicting his rage, it's so intense that no one wants to be nearby.
At the end of Ugranarasimha's wall is Shiva dancing and stomping on Apasmara the icon of negativity. This sculpture depicts the act of Shiva eliminating negative energy.
This is the northern wall next to the northern entrance. Here we have Mahishasuramardhini and two male figures.
One of the pillars of the north-facing entrance has a relief sculpture of Ganapati. With this I've covered the highlights of this temple. We relax for a few minutes and leave.
On the way back to Sokke, we stop at Gondedahalli Siddarameshwara Devastana to check out the inscription stone and memorial stone. However, the temple gates were locked. Vinay and Mohan inquired for the priest's contact number but the efforts were in vain. It was lunch time, it wasn't a good time to bother people, so we left with a couple of shots of the stones through the grilled gates. Mohan feels that Sokke has been mentioned in the edict on the inscription slab. Perhaps it makes sense to check with a historian who has studied this inscription.
On the short way back to Sokke, Vinay mentioned about the ancient temples at Hirenalluru- Mallikarjuna Swami Devatsana and Kalleshwara Swami Devastana. They too seem to be of Hoysala times. Vinay was willing to take me there but I declined. I hope to visit Sokke again and visit Hirenalluru then.
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