Sep 9, 2015

Fort Ratnagiri - part 2

...continued from Fort Ratnagiri - part 1

Ratnagiri hill fort has a perimeter of about 4.5 kms, it spans across two hillocks and plain land. On plain land, along the fort walls runs a moat. Within the fort is part of the village.. probably original settlers.. an online source says that after the fall of Vijayanagara kingdom several hundred Brahmin families settled at Ratnagiri. Coming back to the terrain, the hilly part of the fort has three levels and right now I'm at level 2 and about to climb to level 3 - the summit. In this picture, the steep flight of steps hewn out rock is visible clearly. Probably this is the only way to the summit. A closer view of upper half the stairway (see inset).

At the end of the stairway is a gateway, its in pretty bad shape, I'd to clamber over rocks to reach it. This part can be dangerous in wet conditions. For that matter, its best not to attempt this stairway if rocks are wet.

View from the gateway: Looking down towards level 2.. the two buildings are in fairly good condition, they might have been used as soldiers quarters or for storing food grains/armaments. Also there's a small temple. Probably more buildings were to be built.. abandoned for some reason.

Now I've entered the core fort, the summit, its not a large area here, one roofless structure and a conical bastion stand here. There's a small structure with sloped roof, probably a rest-house for soldiers. Tanks to harvest rain water is present. These structures seem to be built some time between Vijayanagara rule and Hyder Ali or Tipu Sultan's rule. The gateway seen here is a multi-storey structure.

Panning to the left the bastion comes into view. The bastion must have had a stairway to its top but I could not see one. On the bastions right side, on the walls are two vertical channels.. probably to direct rain water flowing down from the roof. On the left side, away from the walls is dome-shaped structure with a small opening, inside it has a shallow pit. I remember seeing similar domes at Madhugiri. I think they were built to store grains or oil.

I was quite surprised to see this group, was not expecting to see people here. They were Telugu and Kannada speaking folks from a nearby village, they had come to see the fort. I sat down in the shade few minutes, cooled off and had some water. Wind was pleasant up here.

Close where we sat was the rampart wall.. portions of which had fallen off. Level 2 wall is visible. Rampart walls run down this hillock and then climb up the neighbouring hill seen here. I won't be able to explore the entire fort :( time is always a constraint. The spot from where I shot is an extension of the wall.. not exactly a bastion but a watch point. See inset for a view of outer surface of the wall.

View of the fort in plain land, original Ratnagiri village is within the fort walls. The large square structure close to the center of the picture is the main gateway of the fort. I'd passed through it an hour ago. At the bottom right corner is another gateway. Besides gateways bastions are also seen. Running along the wall is a trench - that would be the moat..

View of the rampart walls joining the hill. On this part the trench is quite shallow, probably it was filled in.

Turning our attention back tot the summit; this is the western section of the summit. A sloped roof structure.. probably a rest-house for guards. Just behind the rest-house is a turret, design is typical to Tipu occupied-altered forts. View of the rest-house from the rampart wall (see inset).

Next to the rest-house are two water tanks of unequal sizes. Water lines of the rocks/walls indicate tanks were full often. Indeed very effective rain water harvesting systems.

Central bastion as seen from rampart wall, water tank in foreground. If you look beyond the structures, the neighbouring hill's peak is visible. Looks like the other hill is slightly higher than this hill. A closer look at the domed structure next to the central bastion (see inset).

A pair of feet engraved on the rock close to the central bastion. Behind the feet is a set of lines which look like text but the text is not engraved, rather it seems embossed. Is this pair of feet created in memory of some holy man who had visited this spot? I have a feeling this feet marks the stay of a Jain monk.. saying that because of the presence of the Jain Basadi in Ratnagiri village.

View of rampart wall and bastions connecting the two hillocks. I wish I had time enough to explore the entire fort.. might have required another hour and half easily.

I decide to leave.. paused a while at the gateway. Wondering what's the idea behind having a two storey gateway.

Descending the hill was fast, Soon I was on plain land between the two hillocks. I spent some time at this here at the Kalyani but skipped venturing into the Mantapa and temple.

This the fort's main entrance, it has the typical zig-zag path. I should have stopped and checked for inscriptions in the gateway. I must remember to visit this place whenever I'm in the vicinity.


A hero-stone close to the fort's main entrance; it shows four characters- a prancing horse, a royal couple, and an attendant. It looks quite recent.. may be 200 to 250 years old.

Truly Ratnagiri was a formidable fort during its heydays. No wonder it was a power center for Choals and Pandyas. Surely Nayakas would have controlled it at some point of time. Hopefull I'm here again and explore the remaining parts of the fort.

Ratnagiri fort coordinates: 13°48'52"N 77°7'45"E
.........

Sep 5, 2015

Fort Ratnagiri - part 1

June 7, 2013
While driving from Bangalore to Dharwad, I'd stopped at two forts- Sira and Bhasmangi, former is built on plain land while the latter is a hill fort. From Bhasmangi fort when you look towards north-east a hill range is visible.. in that area are several forts.. Ratnagiri, Gudibanda, Midigeshi and Madaksira. Towards the south of this group of forts is Madhugiri fort and in the north is Pavagada fort. One of the villagers at Bhasmangi had asked me to visit Ratnagiri but time was a constraint... some other day.

December 28, 2015
I set out from Tumkur with a plan to visit  three forts. Done with Channarayanadurga, we headed towards Midigeshi, however on the way I decided to visit Ratnagiri first and turned towards Rolla village. Rolla is about 4 kms from Karnataka-Andhra border and 2 kms from Rolla is Ratnagiri, a small village with lot of history. The village is surrounded by ruin of fort and moat but the main fort is on the rocky hill. My cabby Vinayak drove towards the hill, the road ended on the village outskirts near a Jain temple and an temple with a Kalyani.. from here I'd to proceed on foot. Few villagers were hanging around, they looked kind of unemployed. I asked one of them if he could show me the fort but he refused.. seemed unfriendly. I decided to move on..

I went past the fort wall and saw another Kalyani (towards left edge of this picture) much larger than the one seen earlier. Further away on the base of this hill were ruins of temples which looked Vijayanagara style. A day ago, I'd mentioned today's plan to my school friends, one of them had asked me to take pictures of the large Kalyani and share it with him. So this should be his Kalyani.. I decided to climb thee hill first and on the way back stop at the Kalyani.

It was around 11 AM, Sun was blazing down fiercely and I was walking alone following the footpath. This is the hill fort's main entrance.. a massive brick wall with an arched gateway- this wall was built during Hyder Ali or Tipu Sultan's rule. It is said that Ratnagiri fort was an important fort in Pandyas and Cholas kingdoms. It was also part of Vijayanagara kingdom, hence the presence of the temples. After the fall of Vijayanagara, the fort might have been under Nayakas. At some point in history the fort fell to Hyder or Tipu's forces. That's when the fort was renovated probably with the help of French engineers. The fort's perimeter is approximately 4.5 kms spanning over plains and two hillocks.

This is one of the lower peaks, besides the main entrance on the hill.

The massive red brick wall must be 40 feet high. Wonder how many bricks were consumed for this wall.. probably a brick manufacturing unit was set up nearby. The main gateway was badly vandalized.. probably by treasure seekers.

Past the main gateway.. a stone wall stands parallel to the brick wall. In this wall is a zig-zag entrance. Probably Hyder's engineers built the brick wall to strengthen the fort's entrance.

The slope ended and I reached some level surface. Here's an artistically created curved water tank wall.

Guess I can call this level 1. To reach the summit I have to pass through at least 3 gateways (two are in view here), reach level two  and then another climb to the penultimate level.

Closer look at the security office.

The gateway exterior and interior.

The second gateway. Looks like these walls were built some time between Vijayanagara and Hyder's time. Rampart walls built on slope, in the background is the neighbouring hillock (see inset).
Closer look of the inner entrance, exterior and interior. Note the steps have been hewn out of the rock itself, beautifully done (see inset). On the left is a raised platform, probably it was the inner security office. The flight of steps takes us up to level 2 of this hillock.

Level 2 has few buildings which were probably used as soldiers quarters or granaries or store houses. These must have been constructed around Hyder or Tipu's time. Wondering what the large circle enclosed in square is.. was it the first process of creating a grinding wheel? Probably the stone around the circle would be hacked away and the inner cylindrical part would be made into grinding wheels.

On level two there's a small temple (see inset), I don't remember checking if there was a deity inside. Time was 11-20, with Sun blazing down and rocks radiating heat I was getting roasted. I was eager to reach the top.. it would be cooler up there. That\s level 3.. see the narrow, steep flight of steps leading to the summit? It would be crazy climbing that bit..

This article will continue in Fort Ratnagiri - part 2.
.........