Feb 15, 2020

Horanadu the abode of Annapoorneshwari Devi

The first and the last time I'd visited Hornadu and Sringeri was probably 1976. Somehow I never got a chance to visit them again until Sridhar prompted Horanadu plan for December first week. After little discussion, we froze on Dec-19th. The plan was to leave Bangalore Dec-19th night by KSRTC, reach Hornadu 20th morning, visit Annapoorneshwari temple and then travel to Forest Homestay near Aldur. Sri booked the tickets. I'd not revealed the plan to Pushpa until a week to go. When I reveled my plan, mom told her plan of going out of town. Oh! Pushpa won't stay home alone, she'll have to join us. Another ticket was booked. How she poked me for trying to sneak away for the weekend.

Dec-19th morning, my nose started acting funny. By evening it was running. What a bad timing for a cold. Can't real travel in that state but I was in no mood to cancel the trip. Pushpa had packed the bags by the time came home from work. Dinner at usual time. We left home by 9-00 PM, took the Metro to KSRTC bus-stand. I was amazed to see the infrastructure connecting Metro, KSRTC bus-stand, BMTC and the railway station.. convenient for people commuting by public transport.

The bus left on time. Seated in the first row of Volvo B7R, we had a good view of the road. The journey was good until Chikkamagalur bus-stand. However, the cold air from the air-conditioner had worsened my cold, my throat was itchy,  Once the bus took the hilly roads, the bus was turning every 100 meters. The experienced driver maneuvered the agile B7R like a car. I was swaying like a tree in wind, had to grab on to the arm rests to stay still. Pushpa had curled up occupying both seats on her side. I was relieved to see her asleep. I did not fall asleep but kept my eyes closed, need whatever rest they could get. The roads getting more twisty, little after 5-15 AM, some of the bends were so tight, the bus had to be reversed little bit. The journey ended at 5-30, it was still dark. The bus-stop is right in front of the temple and the lodge we would be checking into was a minute's walk.

We checked into the lodge was simple and clean. Its balcony had a good view of the hills on the left, a valley straight ahead and the temple complex on the right. Horanadu as such is because of Annapoorneshwari Devastana, a sweet little place loved by people for its serene ambiance. This is how the day began..

Looking in the direction of the temple. Not many visitors at this time since the temple is not open to public. We freshened up and went down for a cup of tea.. needed one to distract myself from the nagging throat irritation and running nose. The weather was cool, air was clean, I was hoping to recover from the cold by end of the day.

The lodge was right besides the temple guest house. The water tank belongs to the temple which is fed by streams flowing through these hills, I think. There were fishes in the water, they keep the water clean, in fact its a small ecosystem in there. With the day getting brighter, the place was getting busier. On the other side of the temple is a three storied building which provides accommodation to visitors. A large group of children on a school trip had occupied the rooms.

This is the valley through which flowed a stream, the soft gurgling music mixed with the sounds of chirping birds..

Buildings on the other side of the lodge, they are mostly lodges and guest houses. Beyond these buildings are coconut & arecanut plantations, paddy fields, coffee plantation and jungles.


Quoting few lines from the temple's website- Sri Kshetra Horanadu: The great deity of Adishakthyathmaka Sri Annapoorneshwari’s Prathistapana was done by his holiness Agasthya Maharishi several centuries back. The hereditary Dharmakartharu of our family started 400 years back. Till the 5th Dharmakartharu, the temple was having a very small structure surrounded by full of natural vegetation and forest. Even then at least one or more people used to visit the temple, have pooja and were provided with free food (annaprasadam) and shelter and it is continued till date.

This is the temple's main entrance. A flight of steps rises to the temple courtyard. Photography is prohibited inside the temple.

The temple is being managed by a family for the past 400 years. The head priest is known as Dharmakartharu. The current priest is the VII Dharmakartharu. The name Annapoorneshwari is formed by two words Anna (food) and Poorna (perfect). Annapoorneshwari Devi is an avatar of Lord Shiva's wife Parvati, worshiped as the provider of food. I remember my parents telling about our visit here. The temple provided morning coffee, breakfast, lunch and dinner. Such hospitality was seen only here. Now, morning coffee seems to be off the list. We entered the temple around 7-15, there was a queue of some 250 people, by the time got darshan of the deity it was 8-30. The temple is connected to the choultry where food is served. We had to wait 20 minutes for our turn. Breakfast was avalakki and coffee. The choultry is well kept and service was efficient.

This little building is the guest house. I'm guessing this is where we stayed during our visit back in 70s.

Having done with the temple visit, had another round breakfast, packed up & checked out, and came to the bus-stand with our bags. The next was shopping. Sri had a list.. coffee powder, spices, pickles, etc. Pushpa picked up coffee along with edible coconut oil, pickles and a chunk of halwa. We had one extra back full of our shopping. In the mean time a bus was ready to leave to Kalasa from where we had to catch a bus to Aldur. We hopped in. As we drove out of Horanadu, we got to see the beauty of the place.. the age old tiled houses, the paddy fields ready for harvest.. wish we had come for a walk. Anyway..

Horanadu has few coffee processing shops, fresh coffee at very good price. This is one place to be visited during a rainy season.

The bus reached Kalasa in 20 minutes. We had two routes to Aldur, via Balehonnur or via Kottigehara and Mudigere. On inquiring a bus driver suggested us to take his bus going to Kottigehara. It was a short-chassis bus, proven vehicle for these hilly roads. The journey was more than uncomfortable.. one side my cold was getting worse and on the other hand Pushpa was dull, the rock & roll drive was a torture to her. Its far too difficult to see her in that state.. I just kept praying the journey ended as quickly as possible.
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1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Tank seems to be clean, I hope they don't ruin the greenary by bringing the concrete jungle in the name of God. God may also be residing outside the temple which is much more beautiful.