Jun 4, 2022

Mukteshwara Gudi, Vakkund - chapter 5


This is the finale of the 5-chapter article on the temples of Vakkund. The first part of this article covers the overall site, an island during the first visit and a hillock during the second visit. The second part covers the exterior of temples 1 & 2, third and fourth parts cover the interiors of temples 1 and 2 respectively. The fifth part will cover both exterior & interior of temple-3. Going by the looks of this temple, this too is incomplete apart from temple-2.

A Google Maps screen-shot of the site will help you understand the positioning of the three temples. Temples 1 & 2 are at the same. Temple-3 is situated at a slightly lower elevation. Temple-1 is a north-facing shrine, it called as Mukteshwara Gudi, is considered as the main item of this site. Temples 2 and 3 are east-facing and no names have been assigned to them.

Temple-3 has been built on a slope, a very tricky foundation laying work here. This temple was designed to create a sense to anyone looking at it. Compared to temples 1 & 2, here the Garbhagudi doorway is 1.5X, obviously the Garbhagudi volume would be more in comparison. We'll see the interior later, lets go around the exterior first. The Garbhagudi doorway connects to a space enclosed by two high walls, may be it could be called a roofless Sabha Mantapa. Had the construction of this hall been completed, it would've been a big space. The unusual feature of this temple is the circumbulatory path is outside i.e. it has been cut off from the Sabha Mantapa. The tunnel like entrances on either sides are the entry/exit of the circumbulatory (Pradakshinapatha).

Moving on the northwestern corner. The slopy ground on which the temple sits is clear from this spot. In the background, at a higher elevation sits temple-1. The slope in front of temple-3 is covered with several temple parts, finished and semifinished sculptures of various sizes. One of them is a 2½' x 2½' slab with a 3D star (see inset). I think this sculpture is a roof piece, it would've adorned the Sabha Mantapa ceiling or the Garbhagudi ceiling.
Moving on to the southwestern corner. The structure looks simple, solid, unshakable and handsome. Had it been complete, it would've been crowned by a grand looking Shikahara. it might have been the best looking temple of this site.

Coming to the front again but as seen from the southeasterly direction. Take a closer look at the threshold, it is higher than the usual thresholds.

The sanctum threshold too is high, as much as larger temples like Aghoreshwara Devastana. Considering the span of this hall, even if it had had a roof, there wouldn't be any columnar support to the roof beams - that's my guess. Also, there are no independent columns in this structure i.e. all the columns present here are part of walls, there aren't any pillar whose four sides are exposed.

This is a collage of Garbhagudi doorway and Pradakshinapahta exit. The circumbulatory is dark, the interior is a dark screen, more so because of the bright sunlight.

This is the Garhagudi floor, a very dusty surface. At the center is a pedestal for the deity. However, this sanctum's original design was to house three larger than life humanoid idols of Jaina Thirthankara. for three standing idols. 

The two overhangs seen here were meant to be shades for idols of Thirthankara. There are three such canopies in this Garbhagudi. I remember seeing such canopies over Thirthankara idols at Jaina temples on Chandragiri hill at Shravanabelagola. 

This is the Garbhagudi ceiling, a standard temple roof design. Imagine this roof with the lotus/star sculpture seen outside this temple. I think the square dimensions of the pocket here and the sculpture lying outside match.

View of the Garbhagudi-Dwara and Antharala. Reservoir water and left bank are seen in the doorway.

Silohoutte of the doorway and its Thorana. Notice the symmetry in this outline.

Almost done with temple-3 with this view of the reservoir through the Sabhamantpa. Seems like even the floor is unfinished, another layer is yet to be placed so that it has an even surface.

Now coming to the off-white block next to temple-3. Its a stone & mortar structure with the only opening at the top. A circular opening is there but the inner space is filled with rubble. I asked a villager about it. The answer I got was- they say it was a well. Probably a well or a water tank. When it was built is not known. My guess- it could be a century old. 

This spot here was concealed by temple-3 in the previous picture. The small notch like spot is a Sangama i.e. a stream merges with Malaprabha there. During this time, the stream is dry, one could see the confluence in the rainy season.

The pile of temple parts lying, waiting for attention from ASI team. Probably some of them will become part of these three historic temples. In the background a mound is seen, That's where Vakkud village is. People of this village are mainly into agriculture. The lands that get submerged are cultivated seasonally, probably cereals or vegetables are grown in the few months the land is exposed. The land that is away from the reservoir, sugarcane is the main crop.

The morning was very warm, in fact moving around in the sun was a tiring task. I was hungry as well. I walked back to the car, opened all five doors and let the heat escape. Meantime I washed my arms and face with water, felt refreshed. Bye bye Vakkund.

A kilometer away from Vakkund towards Anigol village, I noticed a pair of hero-stones, They are neglected relics but at least they are here.

A closer look at the hero-stones. Hope the villagers clear the boulders around them and place them in a neat rectangle as a boundary. That much care would be helpful... to those looking at them, the arrangement might portray a feeling of protected artifact.

I drove back towards Belavadi and then took the road towards Sangolli, in search of Sri Siddeshwara Vibhuti Gavi, a cave shrine in the hills near Kittur.
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2 comments:

The Untaught Historian said...

This temple seems to be more rectangular than most that I have seen. Is this typical of the style of this time period?

siddeshwar said...

Rectangular in plan is one of the designs in Chalukyan architecture. There are many temples which are square or rectangle in plan. In fact temple no.2 at this site is also rectangular.