Oct 29, 2022

Kunti Gudi complex, Aihole part-1

The last time I was at Aihole was on the last day of August 2013. I think Kunti Gudi complex was one of the spots visited on that day among other seldom visited monuments of Aihole like Yeniyar Gudi, Rachi Gudi, Charantimath, Tryambakeshwara complex, etc. For some reason I hadn't taken enough pictures to draft a blog post on Kunti Gudi complex on that day, and also forgotten the details except for the fact it was situated in a rectangular pit. A revisit to the temple was in need.

July 19, 2022
This was the last of our 3-day visit to the Vatapi Chalukyan realm ...the prominent places being Badami, Banashankari, Mahakoota, Pattadakal, Siddanakolla & Aihole. In fact we had reached Aihole on 17th evening, 18th was spent at Aihole and Siddankolla, and 19th morning we visited Charantimath complex, Kunti complex and lastly Chikki Gudi. It was around 8-30 in the morning when we entered Kunti Gudi complex, sunlight was low but already bright. The very first thing we noticed was the stone-step-ladder leaning against the side wall of the presumably main temple of Kunti temple group. The ladder is approximately 13' tall, 1.25' wide, has 8 steps and weighs a ton. The ladder connects the ground floor and the roof. The smaller substructure on the roof is large enough to be considered as a second storey, however I have no idea what's inside it. Whatever was up there, the ladder is a fascinating creation, the brilliance of ancient temple builders is awe-inspiring. 

Kunti complex has four temples, three are more or less of the same size in plan, the fourth temple is slightly smaller. Besides the four individual structures, there's a fifth structure- a four-column mantapa -which is almost as tall the other four. This mantapa seen below connects two temples. On the left of the mantapa is the temple with the step-ladder, and on the right is another temple. Since the actual names of these temples are unknown, I'll call the former as temple-1 and latter as temple-2.

This is the diagonal view of temple-2. This too has a substructure over its roof. In fact all four temples have substructures on their roofs. There are other temples in this format like Lad Khan temple and Chikki temple. We'll see the come to the details later.

This is temple-3. As you see this temple is rectangular in plan, similar architecture and made of sandstone. I feel all these temples have been built around the same time, probably within a 50 year period. My assumption is based on the wearing off of the sandstone surfaces.

This is temple-4, the smallest in this group. All four are have the same extent of decor. The difference is in individual design.

Here's a screen-shot of Kunti complex in Google Maps with numbers marking positions of five structures. 1, 3, 4 and 5 are temples, 2 is the mantapa connecting 1& 2. The temples are positioned on the corners of an imaginary square. Coming to the orientation and configuration of the temples-
  • Temple-1 is a west facing Trikutachala
  • Temple-2 is a east-facing Ekatachala
  • Temple-3 is a east-facing Ekatachala
  • Temple-4 is a north-facing Ekatachala
Now lets check out the details of each of the temples. Another view of the step-ladder leaning on the northern wall of temple-1. In this well is a small doorway. Since its a west-facing temple, the builders must've added another entrance facing north.

Since the front of temple-1 is partially concealed, we'll have to do with a diagonal view. Anyone entering the temple has to pass through the mantapa. I feel this idea of the mantapa connecting two temples is an attempt to create a single temple. May be the objective was something else.

Stepping into the temple. Four 'large than usual' pillars form a Rangamantapa between the temple entrance and Garbhagriha. This pillar design is very close pillars seen at rock-cut temples (cave temples) of Badami. If we study pillars of different centuries, we could be mapping the evolution of pillars.

Comparing these pillars to the pillars seen in Dharwad or Lakkundi or Itagi or Chalukyan temples, the reduction of size is the most noticeable thing. Of course , raw material is soapstone in the latter barring a few temples. Coming to this temple's configuration, this has two Grarbhagrihas and there's space yet another Garbhagriha. Factually this is a Dwikutachala but theoretically this could be a Trikutachala.

This is the blank space left of the middle Garbhagriha. This situation leaves scope to imagine the process or construction process. Seems like builders had already developed modular construction methods. It wouldn't be wrong to say that ancient building blocks were like the present day Lego blocks.

A closeup shots of floral patterns on the pillars. The straight band is a series of rhombuses enclosing petals - this is a apt design for a ladies' waist band made in gold. The upper part is a lotus surrounded by creepers. The lotus' petal shapes are realistic. The two arcs sandwiching a series of progressive circles gives a classy touch to the ensemble.

The outline of these arts are trapezoidal. Here at the head is a Keertimukha. Features of the Keertimukha are sharp, so clear even this picture which is a third or fourth of the actual size. The horizontal band features lotus petals and the circle encloses parts of a creeper. There could be some message hidden in these patterns which we are yet to figure out. There's a lot more to see in these ancient marvels but I'll move on for time being.

Coming to temple-2, we are seeing its rear end. The external walls are bare, as are the other temples. The only touch of décor is at the base of the walls. The side of this temple- front half is the semi-open hall and the rear half is a proper wall. The front half- the pieces between the pillars are backrests of seats inside. 

A glimpse at the substructure on the roof. From what I can see, the corner piece is a dwarfish column. There would be four such pillars. On the sides, there are more dwarf pillars. At the middle is a niche with a humanoid image in what seems like dancing posture. The features have faded- effect of erosion.

Coming to the front of the temple. Unlike temple-1, temple-2 has two entrances, both in the front. One entrance is through the mantapa connecting the temples. The pillars seen here seem rough cut. No they were finished well, the relief works have faded so much it seems like rough work. Also the flooring in these temples are uneven, edges and corners are rounded - again effect of erosion. In the foreground, on the left is a pillar with geometric designs. This is one of the pillars of the connecting mantapa.

This is the entrance of the Garbhagriha. I just realized I'm missing something important here. From the exterior, half the side wall seemed like Garbhagriha but that's not the case in here. Which means, the space inside the Garbhagriha is as wide as this structure.. How I wish I had noticed it. During my next visit I'll make sure to check this temple again, with a lamp bright enough to light the inside of Garbhagriha. Turning our attention to the doorframe.. despite the multi-tiers, it's simple compared to temples of post X Century. At the head of the doorframe is a winged creature- that must be Garuda. So this must be a temple dedicated to Vishnu. The four armed Dwarapalas are also interesting. The right hand side Dwarapala must be Shiva since there is a Trishula and a serpent. On the left there's a serpent but no Trishula - is that Vishnu? One little detail one might miss is the small niche next to the doorframe, I guess its a oil lamp holder.

While I was busy seeing the walls, pillars and floor, Pushpa had noticed sculptures in the ceiling. Three massive sculptures of the three supreme lords of Hindu legends- Brahma, Vishnu and Maheshwara. Before we see the collage of the Trimurthy, I would like to point out to a sculpture of peacock on the foremost pillar on left hand side. These pillars are rough but the details are clear.

The collage: four faced Brahma on lotus seat; four armed Shiva in company of Parvati; Vishnu reclining on Sheshnag, surrounded by several characters including his consorts. These sculptures have experienced effects of rainwater for centuries, the white patches seem to be calcium accumulation. Hope ASI takes steps to control further damage by water. Coming to the dark patches, I think its layers of soot when these temples were used as homes by locals. In fact most names of Aihole temples are derived from the people or families which resided in them.

Coming back to the temple entrance, a 8' tall slab leans against the Sukhanasi. The face of the slab is completely inscribed in Kannada text. I have no idea what the inscription states. Guessing it could related to grants to the temples at some point of time.

Lastly, this is a diagonal rear view of temple-2. The side and rear walls are plain, mostly functional with a basic touch of decor.

That's all I have for temple-2. We'll move on to temple-3 in the next part of this article... Kunti Gudi complex part-2.
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