A tour of Vatapi Chalukyan realm - part5

...continued from A tour of Vatapi Chalukyan realm - part4.

Day-2 of our holiday was almost ending. With an hour's daylight left, we entered Galaganatha temple complex. This place doesn't many tourists, probably we were the first of the day and surely the last. Galaganatha group is situated on the right bank of Malaprabha, just 250 meters to the north of Ramlingeshwar Gudi. However, this group is completely enclosed with no access to the river. My last visit here was Dec 2011 and the most remembered item is the dolmen which looks like a simple mantapa of a slab supported by six columns seen in the below picture. Galaganatha group consists of approximately 25 to 30 individual temples in three clusters. All temples here are inactive, no rituals happen here. The main temple is situated next to the dolmen, seen here. It has a Kadamba-Nagara Shikhara, a pyramidal tower with shrinking concentric square steps.

A Karnataka Tourism board planted at the enclosure entrance reads as below:

The Galaganatha Temple

This appears to be originally a Vishnu temple as the Shikhara of the temple has images of on three sides. though Vishnu on the Garbhagriha of this eighth Century temple has a Linga installed in it. The Rangamantapa has the image of Brahma on Ats inner ceiling. The Mantapa has a Saptamatrika panel.

Below is a collage of four images from the first cluster. Orientation of most temples here is east-facing but there are examples of temples facing the other three directions too. Also there are temples in different formats i.e. combination of features like Mukhamantapa, Sabhamantapa, Antharala, Sukanasi, Shikhara, etc. It is said that builders built model temples here and then replicated a larger version elsewhere. It would be an interesting project to map the models at Aihole & with replicas elsewhere.

Moving on to the next cluster which is to the southeast of the first cluster. The Thoranagallu here is the most unique item here. Though damaged, the columns & beams' features are preserved. In this group, temples seem to be built around a quadrangle, the open space is like a gathering place for devotees. I did not take closeups due to dim light and we were on a fast tour. Back home when I compared these pictures with the pictures shot in dry season, the older ones are clearer. Do take a look at Galagatnatha in Dec 2011.

Pushpa got a phone call which lasted several minutes before she asked me take it. The call was from a common ex-colleague from Yellapur side. I chatted with our friend and continued shooting. At one point it wasn't convenient, so I'd to say bye to our friend. During the call we had moved from cluster-2 to cluster-3. While clusters 1 & 2 are situated on level ground, cluster 3 is on a rocky slope. This slope which runs along the river bank goes on till Ramlingeshwara group. The temples here are smaller and more tightly packed. Also it looks little chaotic because the builders had to follow the undulations. We spent a few minutes here. To study these temples and find some unique or special or superbly preserved sculpture, one has to be look patiently. I realized that another visit is due between Oct and Jan.

Before leaving the place, I took a long look at the iconic tree of Galaganatha & Ramlingeshwara. The umbrella shaped Ficus which is almost a hundred feet in diameter. During my last visit I remember seeing a group of stoneworkers working on big blocks to be used for restoration here.

We headed back to our room at KSTDC lodge situated on Aihole-Amingad road. We had an early dinner and hit the bed. This place is so silent that city people might find it difficult falling sleep here. This is what I like about Aihole... no hotels, no big bus-stand, no maddening crowds. Pushpa slept well but my sleep was on & off due to the mattress. We woke up early morning, freshened up and went for a walk. The ambiance was just too good, very relaxing. Two friendly canines joined us, they too wanted to exercise their limbs I guess. Back at the lodge, we found two puppies as well. We got some biscuits from our room and fed them. Four happy canines :)

Our plan was to see Kunti Gudi and Charantimath complex and then start our return journey by noon. We headed to the main junction of Aihole, had a light breakfast, parked our car and found our way through the narrow lanes. Aihole had changed a bit in the past decades... the dirt paths of the village had been cemented. Now it was much cleaner and easier to walk.

Charantimath complex consist of four temples and a Thoranagallu. Of the three temples; one is a twin temple - a Dwikutachala; one is three interconnected temples - a Trikutachala; the third one a small structure, just a Garbhagudi; and the last one is very elegant, it has a Garbhagudi with a stepped Shikhara and a Mukhamantapa with Sukanasi (top-left in the collage below).

A Karnataka Tourism board planted here describes the complex as follows: Originally, a Jaina Basadi, now is a Matha. This XII Century Trikutachala monument has a common Mantapa to connect the three Garbhagrihas. The pillars are square, but circular at the top. The frontal entrance has an image of a Tirthankara flanked by the Gandharvas. There are twin Basadis in this complex with a common entrance Mantapa and the two Basadis have images of Tirthankaras, 12 in each, and only one Garbhagrihas has a Jaina image.

Photography is an impossible task at Charanti Matha. You try to shoot one, other temple's wall comes in the way. Shooting with a standard lens is a waste here, one has to have a wide angle lens. It's easier to shoot with a mobile phone here. Below pictures are of the twin Basadi. To my knowledge, the floor plan of this twin-Basadi is close to Veerabhadreshwara Gudi at Lakkundi.

After spending about 30 minutes, we moved on to Kunti Gudi which is a minute's walk away. This is one of my favorite spots and I was waiting to show-off the stone ladder to Pushpa. There she is after ascending, touching the temple's roof and descending. I must mention that this entire group is situated in a 6' deep rectangular pit. May be the top soil wasn't hard enough to take the load of these structures so the builders had it removed until a hard layer was met. Here we have four individual temples; a west facing Trikutachala, a east-facing Ekatachala, another east-facing Ekatachala and a north-facing Ekatachala. Apart from the temples, there's one tall Mantapa which kind of connects the Trikutachala to one of the Ekatachala.

That's the Mantapa. To my knowledge, there are smaller Mantapas like this at Galaganatha and Charanti Matha. Coming to the stone ladder, there are three- 1. Jaina Narayana Gudi, Pattadakal, 2. Chalukya Shiva Gudi (formerly Ladkhan temple), Aihole and 3. Kunti Gudi. I think ancient builders had made more stone ladders in Chalukyan temples, may be only these are remaining presently.

This is the interior of Kunti Gudi, the temple with three sanctums. As per the sculptures present here, these temples have been dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Shakti Devis. Most of the fine sculptures are damaged, either intentionally or by natural forces. The design and build of these temples are awe-inspiring. One will wonder about ancient builders' ability and the technology of that time. Sculpting pillars or columns or slabs is one thing but assembling the individual components without damaging them is another matter. Even if we assume that the finishing touches were given after the assembly, the sculptors had no margin for error.

This is the temple opposite Kunti Gudi. Its verandah is as wide as the temple. As you see its Sukhanasi has been damaged badly. The columns, beams and floor slabs have worn out significantly. In the foreground is one of the four columns of the tall Mantapa. Notice the geometric design on it's face, simple but elegant. An 6' tall inscription slab is kept in front of this temple which seems to be the only inscription here.

This is the third temple, its layout is similar to the second temple. The perforated windows are very stylish and functional. Inside the temple is a damaged sculpture of Garuda. So this could be a Vishnu temple. Here too erosion in floor stones is clearly visible.

This is the smallest temple of this group. Notice the steps construction. Instead of entering straight ahead, one has to climb sideways and then turn into the Mukhamantapa. The four pillars in the façade have couples in amorous positions. The canopy of this temple is well preserved. One thing here, none of these temples have pyramidal Shikhara but a cuboid like structure can be seen on two of the temples. May that was another design of Shikhara. 

A closer look at the step-ladder and the inscription featuring Gajalaksmi at its head.

I think we spent almost an hour at Kunti Gudi. When I come here next time, I need to study certain things and take a few more pictures. We walk back to our car parked close to Durga temple complex entrance and then drive to Chikki Gudi enclosure. Unfortunately the gates were locked. I could've jumped over the fence to take a proper look at the two temples here but that wouldn't be civil. So I had stand close to the fence and shoot a few pictures. Structurally this is similar to Kunti Gudi but here the width is shorter than its depth. In other words, Kunti Gudi floor plan is landscape and Chikki Gudi floor plan is portrait. Kunti Gudi has a wide Mukhamantapa and Chikki Gudi has a compact Mukhamantapa.

This is the second temple sans Mukhamantapa or Shikhara. Also this looks like a restored temple. The irony is those goats are close to the temple while they care a hoot about it and I'm here standing outside the fence.

There's another shrine to the far right of this enclosure. That shrine seems incomplete.. a Shivalinga on a pedestal, flooring, an arch standing on a platform and steps with balustrade are present. Apart from these, there are no walls at all. Going by another two rectangular plots paved with dressed slabs, looks like there were plans to build two more temples here. With no option to enter the enclosure, we decide to head back to the lodge and pack up.

We freshen up again, pack out stuff and check out. The accommodation was okay, for the tariff charged I did not want to complain. However, I felt things could be improved. Before leaving Aihole we decided to have one last snack & tea. This lady is the owner of the tea shop we visited since the evening we reached. Of all the shops here, this one is the cleanest and most spacious. We thanked the lady & her son and hoped to see them again. The other shop is right at Durga temple junction, there idli, puri, vada served in the mornings are better but the tables are out in the open and too close to traffic. Though traffic is light its not comfortable to eat there. One could always take away and eat elsewhere.

I wasn't really happy to be leaving but then... For the return journey, I had one last place to show. Couple of kilometers after Pattadakal, as we go towards Badami, on the left hand side of the road is this prehistoric dolmen. I'd been here several times but Pushpa was seeing this for the first time. During my previous visits this site was open, now its enclosed in a proper fence and a info board has been planted.

Below is the transcript of the description in English:

This megalith a dolmen-is a burial or memorial burial belonging to c. Millennium BCE to 3 century CE. It is a rectangular chamber formed by four large and thick orthostats on the sides. Bearing a larger capstone at the top. The side orthostats. At both the ends project laterally across the edges of the orthostats on the front and rear. The south-east facing front orthostat has a rectangular opening larger than a normal port- hole. On the front side. In continuation of the western orthostat. Is seen only the broken edge of another orthostat. There are three other huge fallen slabs in front of the chamber. These originally formed probably another north-south oriented compartment of the extant chamber. The present front slab with the rectangular opening is likely a segmental orthostat dividing the chamber into two compartments. Traces of cairn packing of stone rubbles and earth enclosing the chamber are visible on the northern side but this is a vague indication that the chamber was originally surrounded by a stone circle.

Adjoining this site are agricultural lands. The field to the right (facing this site from the road) are ruins of three or four more megalithic tombs. They are made of much heavier slabs of sandstone. They are not even like the ones seen at Aihole, rather the build is similar to the dolmen of Konnur near Gokak Waterfall. Like I said before the entire area surrounding Badami, Pattadakal and Aihole were active during Stoneage. There are lot of unknown artifacts hidden away. Only by chance we discover them. Close to this site is Bachangudda, a well known prehistoric site. Also atop the hill is Bachilingeshwara Gudi which I haven't seen till date. I've added it to the list of places to see during the next trip this side.

We continued with out journey... passed by the massive sandstone formations at Badami. We took Ramdurg road and drove via Saundatti back to Dharwad.

A year has passed by since our trip and I'm preparing for another visit, hopefully between October and December. I tried Pushpa to compose her version of the trip, no success so far but I haven't given up hope.

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