ಧಾರವಾಡ-ಕಿತ್ತೂರು-ಧಾರವಾಡ ಸೈಕಲ್ ಸವಾರಿ

ಈ ಲೇಖನವು ಮೂಲತಃ ಆಂಗ್ಲ ಭಾಷೆಯಲ್ಲಿ ಲೈಫ್ ಅಟ್ ಧಾರವಾಡ ಬ್ಲಾಗ್ನಲ್ಲಿ- Dharwad-Kittur-Dharwad bicycle ride -ಪ್ರಕಟವಾಗಿತ್ತು. ಈಗ ನಾನು ಅದನ್ನು ಇಲ್ಲಿ ಕನ್ನಡದಲ್ಲಿ ಮರುಪ್ರಕಟಿಸುತ್ತಿದ್ದೇನೆ. ನಾನು ಕನ್ನಡದಲ್ಲಿ ಬರೆಯುವ ಅಭ್ಯಾಸವಿಲ್ಲದ ಕಾರಣ, ಅನುವಾದಿಸಲು ಗೂಗಲ್ ಮತ್ತು ಪುಷ್ಪಾಳ ಸಹಾಯವನ್ನು ತೆಗೆದುಕೊಂಡಿದ್ದೇನೆ.

ಮಾರ್ಚ್ 2021ರಿಂದ ಸೈಕಲ್ ತುಳಿಯುವುದು ಶುರುವಾದಾಗಿಂದಲೂ ಇದೊಂದು ಪ್ರಮುಖ ಹವ್ಯಾಸವಾಗಿಬಿಟ್ಟಿದೆ. ಆರಂಭದಲ್ಲಿ ನಾವು 10+ ಕಿಮೀ ಸವಾರಿ ಮಾಡಿದ್ದೇವೆ ಅದು ಕ್ರಮೇಣ 20+ ಮತ್ತು 30+ ಕ್ಕೆ ವಿಸ್ತರಿಸಿತು. ಕೆಲವು ಬಾರಿ ನಾವು 40 ಮತ್ತು 50 ಕಿಮೀ ಸವಾರಿಗಳನ್ನೂ ಮಾಡಿದ್ದೇವೆ. ಈ ಸವಾರಿಗಳಲ್ಲಿನ ಇನ್ನೊಂದು ವಿಷಯವೆಂದರೆ ನಾವು ಎಷ್ಟು ತಡೆರಹಿತವಾಗಿ ಸವಾರಿ ಮಾಡಿದ್ದೇವೆ ಎಂಬುದು. 20+ ಕಿಮೀ ತಡೆರಹಿತ ಸವಾರಿಗಳನ್ನು ಸಾಧಿಸಲು ನಮಗೆ ಹಲವಾರು ತಿಂಗಳುಗಳು ಬೇಕಾಯಿತು. ನನ್ನ ಪ್ರಕಾರ 27 ಕಿಮೀ ನಾವು ತಡೆರಹಿತ ಸವಾರಿ ಮಾಡಿದ್ದೇವೆ. ಆದರೆ, ಡಿಸೆಂಬರ್ 31 ರಂದು ನಾನು ಏಕಾಂಗಿಯಾಗಿ ಹೋಗಿದ್ದೆ, ನಿಲ್ಲಿಸದೆ 55 ಕಿ.ಮೀ. ಕ್ಯಾಲೆಂಡರ್ ವರ್ಷವನ್ನು ಕೊನೆಗೊಳಿಸಲು ಇದು ಉತ್ತಮ ಮಾರ್ಗವೆಂದು ನಾನು ಭಾವಿಸಿದೆ.

ಹವ್ಯಾಸವನ್ನು ಕ್ರಿಯಾಶೀಲವಾಗಿಡಲು ಪ್ರೇರೇಪಿಸುವ ನಮ್ಮದೇ ಆದ ಪುಟ್ಟ ದಾಖಲೆಗಳನ್ನು ರಚಿಸುವಾಗ, ನಾವು ಕಿತ್ತೂರಿಗೆ ಸವಾರಿ ಮಾಡ ಬೇಕೆಂದು ಮಾತನಾಡುತ್ತಿದ್ದೆವು. ಎರಡು ಬೈಸಿಕಲ್‌ಗಳಿಗೆ ಸರಿಯಾದ ಹೆಡ್‌ಲೈಟ್‌ಗಳು ಮತ್ತು ಟೈಲ್ ಲ್ಯಾಂಪ್‌ಗಳಿಲ್ಲದಿರುವುದು ಸವಾರಿಯನ್ನು ಮುಂದೂಡಲು ಪ್ರಮುಖ ಕಾರಣ. ಸುರಕ್ಷಿತ ಸವಾರಿಗಾಗಿ ಸರಿಯಾದ ದೀಪಗಳ ಅಗತ್ಯ, ಮತ್ತು ಕೆಲವು ಆಯ್ಕೆಗಳಿಂದ ನಾನು ದೀಪಗಳನ್ನು  ಖರೀದಿ ಮಾಡಲು ಆಗಲಿಲ್ಲಾ. ಹತ್ತಿರದ ಸವಾರಿಗಳಿಗಾಗಿ ಒಂದು ಪ್ರಕಾಶಮಾನವಾದ ಪುನರ್ಭರ್ತಿ ಮಾಡಬಹುದಾದ ದೀಪವನ್ನು ಹೊಂದಿದ್ದೇವೆ,  ಆದರೆ ಆ ದೀಪ  ಬೈಸಿಕಲ್‌ಗಳಿಗಾಗಿ ಮಾಡಲಾಗಿಲ್ಲಾ, ಅದನ್ನು ಬೈಸಿಕಲ್‌ಗೆ ಜೋಡಿಸುವುದು ಸುಲಭದ ಕೆಲಸವಾಗಿರಲಿಲ್ಲ. ತಾತ್ಕಾಲಿಕ ವ್ಯವಸ್ಥೆಯಾಗಿ ಅದನ್ನು ರಬ್ಬರ್-ಬ್ಯಾಂಡ್‌ಗಳೊಂದಿಗೆ ಜೋಡಿಸಿದ್ದೆನು. ಬೈಸಿಕಲ್ ತೆಗ್ಗು ದಿಣ್ಣೆ ಇಳಿದು ಹತ್ತಿದರೆ ದೀಪದ ಬೆಳಕು ದಿಕ್ಕುಗೆಡುತ್ತಿತ್ತು.

ಫೆಬ್ರವರಿ 19, 2022
ಅಂದು ಸಂಜೆ ಊಟ  ಮಾಡುವಾಗ ಕಿತ್ತೂರಿಗೆ  ಹೋಗಿಬರುವ ಮೌನ ನಿರ್ಧಾರ ಮಾಡಿದೆ. ಹೆಡ್‌ಲ್ಯಾಂಪ್ ಮತ್ತು ಟೈಲ್ ಲ್ಯಾಂಪ್, ಟೈರ್ ಇನ್‌ಫ್ಲೇಟರ್, ಪಂಕ್ಚರ್ ರಿಪೇರಿ ಕಿಟ್, ಬಿಸ್ಕೆಟ್‌ಗಳನ್ನು ಬ್ಯಾಗ್‌ನಲ್ಲಿ ಇಟ್ಟೆ. ಬೆಳಿಗ್ಗೆ ಮೂರು ಗಂಟೆಗೆ ಅಲಾರಾಂ ಇಟ್ಟು ಬೇಗ ಮಲಗಲು ಹೋದೆ.

ಫೆಬ್ರವರಿ 20, 2022
ಅಲಾರಾಂ ಹೊಡೆದ ಕೂಡಲೇ ಎಚ್ಚರವಾಯಿತು. ಬೇಗನೆ ಫ್ರೆಶ್ ಆಗಿ, ಬಟ್ಟೆ ಧರಿಸಿ, ನೀರಿನ ಬಾಟಲಿಯನ್ನು ತುಂಬಿಸಿ, ನನ್ನ ಚೀಲವನ್ನು ತೆಗೆದುಕೊಂಡು, ನಾನು ಸ್ವಲ್ಪ ತಡವಾಗಿ ಹಿಂತಿರುಗಬಹುದು ಎಂದು ಪುಷ್ಪಾಗೆ ಹೇಳಿದನು. ಹೊರಡುವ ಮೊದಲು ನಾನು ನನ್ನ ಕಠಾರಿ ತೆಗೆದುಕೊಳ್ಳಲು ನಿರ್ಧರಿಸಿದೆ, ಅದು ನನ್ನೊಂದಿಗೆ ಅನೇಕ ಸ್ಥಳಗಳಲ್ಲಿ ಪ್ರಯಾಣಿಸಿದೆ, ಈ ಸವಾರಿಗೆ ಅದೂ ಬರಲಿ. 3-45 ಕ್ಕೆ ನಾನು ಗೇಟ್‌ನ ಹೊರಗೆ ಇದ್ದೆ, ನನ್ನ ಫೋನ್‌ನಲ್ಲಿ ಜಿಯೋಪೊಕ್ಸಾ ಸೈಕ್ಲಿಂಗ್ ಅಪ್ಲಿಕೇಶನ್‌ನಲ್ಲಿ ಟ್ರಾಕಿಂಗ್ ಆರಂಭಿಸಿದೆ ಮತ್ತು ಸವಾರಿಯನ್ನು ಪ್ರಾರಂಭಿಸಿದೆ.

ಎಂದಿನಂತೆ ಸುತ್ತಿ ಬಳಸಿ ಹೋಗುವ ಬದಲಾಗಿ ನೇರವಾಗಿ ಬೆಳಗಾವಿ ರಸ್ತೆಯ ಕಡೆಗೆ ಹೊರಟೆ. ತಂಪಾಗಿದ್ದರೂ ನಾನು 5 ಕಿಮೀ ಕ್ರಮಿಸುವ ಮೊದಲೇ ಸ್ವಲ್ಪ ಬೆವರುತ್ತಿದ್ದೆ. ಕೃಷಿ ವಿಶ್ವವಿದ್ಯಾನಿಲಯದ ಬಳಿ ಗಾಳಿಯು ತಂಪಾಗಿತ್ತು. ಬೈಪಾಸ್ ಟೋಲ್ ಗೇಟ್ ಬಳಿ ಒಬ್ಬ ಟ್ರಕ್ ಡ್ರೈವರ್ ನನ್ನತ್ತ ಕೈ ಮಾಡಿದನು, ಅವನು ಬೇಲೂರು ಇಂಡಸ್ಟ್ರಿಯಲ್ ಏರಿಯಾಗೆ ಹೇಗೆ ಹೋಗಬೇಕೆಂದು ಕೇಳಿದನು.  ಈ ಹೆದ್ದಾರಿ ಇಂಡಸ್ಟ್ರಿಯಲ್ ಏರಿಯಾಗೆ ಹೋಗುತ್ತದೆ ಎಂದು  ಹೇಳಿದೆ. ಅವನು ಧನ್ಯವಾದ ಹೇಳಿದನು. ಆಗ ನನಗೆ ಮದ್ಯದ ವಾಸನೆ ಬಂದಿತು. ಹುಷಾರಾಗಿ ಓಡಿಸಿ ಎಂದು ಹೇಳಿದೆ. ಹೂ ಅಣ್ಣಾ ಅಂದಾ. ನೈಸ್ ಫೆಲೋ ಅವನು. ನಾನು ನನ್ನ ಸವಾರಿಯನ್ನು ಮುಂದುವರೆಸಿದೆ, ಕೆಲವು ನಿಮಿಷಗಳ ನಂತರ, ಅದೇ ಟ್ರಕ್ ನಿಧಾನವಾಗಿ ಹಾದುಹೋಯಿತು, ಡ್ರೈವರ್ ಒಂದು ಬಾರಿ ಹಾರ್ನ್ ಮಾಡಿದಾ, ನಾನು ಕೈ ಸನ್ನೆ ಮಾಡಿದೆ ..ನೀವು ಸರಿಯಾದ ದಿಕ್ಕಿನಲ್ಲಿ ಹೋಗುತ್ತಿದ್ದೀರಿ. ಬಸ್ಸುಗಳು, ಟ್ರಕ್‌ಗಳು ಮತ್ತು ಕಾರುಗಳ ಮಿಶ್ರಣದ ಸಂಚಾರ ಸಾಮಾನ್ಯವಾಗಿತ್ತು. ನಾನು ರಂಬಲ್ ಸ್ಟ್ರಿಪ್‌ಗಳ ಮೇಲೆ ಓಡಿದಾಗಲೂ ಹೆಡ್‌ಲ್ಯಾಂಪ್ ಭದ್ರವಾಗಿ ಹಿಡಿದುಕೊಂಡಿತ್ತು.

ಕೋಟೂರು ಕ್ರಾಸ್ ಮತ್ತು ವೆಂಕ್ಟಪುರ ನಡುವಿನ ಸರ್ವೀಸ್ ರಸ್ತೆಯಲ್ಲಿ ಕೆಳಸೇತುವೆವರೆಗಿನ ರಸ್ತೆ ನನಗೆ ಪರಿಚಿತವಾಗಿತ್ತು. ಪುಷ್ಪಾ ಮತ್ತು ನಾನು ಒಮ್ಮೆ ಅಲ್ಲಿಗೆ ಹೋಗಿದ್ದೆವು, ಅದು 50 ಕಿಮೀ ಸವಾರಿ. ಕೆಳಸೇತುವೆಯಿಂದ ಮುಂದೆ ಗೊತ್ತಿಲ್ಲದಿರುವ ರಸ್ತೆ. ಈ ಹಂತದಿಂದ ಗುಡ್ಡ ಕೊರೆದು ರಸ್ತೆ ಮಾಡಿದ್ದರಿಂದ ತುಂಬಾ ಏರು ಹಾಗೂ ಇಳಿಜಾರನ್ನು ಎದುರಿಸಬೇಕಾಯಿತು. ಹವಾಮಾನವು ಹೆಚ್ಚು ತಂಪಾಗಿತ್ತು. ಅಡ್ಡಾದಿಡ್ಡಿಯಾಗಿ ಅಂದರೆ ರಸ್ತೆಯ ಅಂಚು ಮತ್ತು ಬದಿಯ ಮಾರ್ಕರ್ ನಡುವೆ ಇರುವ ಜಲ್ಲಿಕಲ್ಲುಗಳು ಮಾತ್ರ ತುಂಬಾ ತೊಂದರೆ ಕೊಟ್ಟವು. ಬೆಳಿಗ್ಗೆ 6 ಗಂಟೆಗೆ ಕಿತ್ತೂರು ತಲುಪುವುದು ನನ್ನ ಗುರಿಯಾಗಿತ್ತು. ನಾನು ತಡೆರಹಿತ ಸವಾರಿ ಮಾಡಲು ನಿರ್ಧರಿಸಿದೆ, ಒಂದೇ ವೇಗವನ್ನು ತಲೆಯಲ್ಲಿಟ್ಟುಕೊಂಡು ಆಯಾಸ ಕಡಿಮೆ ಆಗುವಂತೆ ನನ್ನ ಸವಾರಿ ಮುಂದುವರೆಯಿತು.

ಬೋಗೂರ್ ಕ್ರಾಸ್ ನಂತರ, ಮತ್ತೆ ಗುಡ್ಡದ ಏರಿಳಿತಗಳನ್ನು ಎದುರಿಸುವ ಸಮಯ ಬಂತು. ಈ ಏರಿಳಿತಗಳು ಬೆರೆದವುಗಳಿಗಿಂತ ಕಡಿದಾಗಿದ್ದವು. ನನ್ನ ಸೈಕಲ್ ಗೆ ಹಾಕಿದ್ದ ಹೆಡ್ಲಾಂಪ್ ನಂಗೆ ಮುಂದೆ ಬರುವ ಸವಾಲಿನ ಸೂಚನೆ ಕೊಡುತ್ತ ಸೈಕಲ್ ಹ್ಯಾಂಡಲ್ ಮೇಲೆ ಚಳಿಗೆ ನಡಗುತ್ತ ಕುಳಿತಿತ್ತು. ಈ ಎಲ್ಲ ಸವಾಲುಗಳ, ಏರಿಳಿತಗಳ, ಮನಸಿನ ದ್ವಂದ್ವಗಳ ಜೊತೆಗೆ ಕೊನೆಗೂ ಕಿತ್ತೂರಿನ ತಿರುವು ಬಂದೆ ಬಿಟ್ಟಿತು ಮತ್ತು ಮುಂದಿನ ನಿಮಿಷಗಳಲ್ಲಿ ನಾನು ರಾಂಪ್ ಇಳಿದು ಬಲಕ್ಕೆ ತಿರುಗಿ ರಾಣಿ ಚೆನ್ನಮ್ಮನ ಪ್ರತಿಮೆಯ ಮುಂದೆ ನಿಂತಿದ್ದೆ. ಬೆಳಗ್ಗೆ 5-45 ಆಗಿತ್ತು.

ಮತ್ತೊಂದು ದಾಖಲೆ ಸೃಷ್ಟಿಸಿದ ಸಂತೋಷದಲ್ಲಿ ಹಾಗೂ ನೆನಪಿಗಾಗಿ ಸೈಕಲ್ ನಿಲ್ಲಿಸಿ ಒಂದು ಫೋಟೋ ತೆಗೆದುಕೊಂಡೆ. ನಂತರ ಕೋಟೆಯ ಗೇಟ್ ಕಡೆ ನನ್ನ ಸವಾರಿ ಹೊಂಟಿತು, ಮತ್ತೆರಡು ಚಿತ್ರಗಳನ್ನು ತೆಗೆದುಕೊಂಡು  ಮತ್ತು ಎರಡು ಗುಟುಕು ನೀರು ಕುಡಿದು, ಟೈಲ್ ಲ್ಯಾಂಪ್ ಅನ್ನು ಬದಲಾಯಿಸಿಕೊಂಡು ಮರಳಿ ರಾಣಿ ಚೆನ್ನಮ್ಮ ವೃತ್ತಕ್ಕೆ ಹಿಂತಿರುಗಿದೆ.  

ಕಮಾನಿನ ನೋಟವು ತುಂಬಾ ಚೆನ್ನಾಗಿತ್ತು, ಆದ್ದರಿಂದ ಮತ್ತೊಂದು ಫೋಟೋ ತೆಗೆದುಕೊಂಡು ಮುನ್ನಡೆದೆ.

ಬೆಳಿಗ್ಗೆ 6-02 ಗಂಟೆಗೆ ಹಿಂದಿರುಗುವ ಪ್ರಯಾಣ ಪ್ರಾರಂಭವಾಯಿತು. ನಾನು ಸರ್ವೀಸ್ ರಸ್ತೆ ಬಿಟ್ಟು ಮತ್ತೆ ಹೆದ್ದಾರಿಗೆ ಹೋದೆ. ಇನ್ನೂ ಕತ್ತಲಿತ್ತು, ಹೆಡ್‌ಲೈಟ್ ಹಚ್ಚಿಕೊಂಡೆ ಹೊರಟೆ. ದೀರ್ಘವಾದ ಇಳಿಜಾರಿನಲ್ಲಿ, ಗಂಟೆಗೆ 40 ಕಿಮೀ ವೇಗದಲ್ಲಿ, ಹೆದ್ದಾರಿಯ ಅಂಚಿನಲ್ಲಿರುವ ಜಲ್ಲಿಕಲ್ಲುಗಳ ಮೇಲೆ ಗಾಲಿಗಳು ಉರುಳುವಾಗ ಸೈಕಲ್ ನಿಯಂತ್ರಣ ತಪ್ಪುವ ಸಾಧ್ಯತೆ ಹೆಚ್ಚು. ಬ್ರೇಕ್ ಹಾಕುವ ಯೋಚನೇನೂ ಮಾಡಬಾರದು. ಕ್ರಮೇಣವಾಗಿ ಒಳಗಿನ ಲೆನಿಗೆ ಹೋಗಿ ಬ್ರೇಕ್ ಹಚ್ಚಿ ಸ್ವಲ್ಪ ನಿಧಾನವಾದನಂತರ ಮತ್ತೆ ಬೈಕ್ ಲೆನಿಗೆ ಬಂದೆ. ನಾನು ಎಂದೂ ಎದರಿಸದಿರುವ ಸಂದರ್ಭಗಳನ್ನುಇಲ್ಲಿ ಎದುರಿಸುತ್ತಿದ್ದೆ, ಬೈಕನ್ನು ನಿಯಂತ್ರಿಸುವ ಹೊಸ ರೀತಿಗಳನ್ನು ಕಲಿಯುತ್ತಿದ್ದೆ. ಶಿಗ್ನಳ್ಳಿ ಕ್ರಾಸ್‌ನಲ್ಲಿ ವಿಶ್ರಾಂತಿ ಪಡೆಯಬೇಕೆಂದು ಅನ್ನಿಸಿತು.  ಸರಕಾರಿ ಬಸ್ ನಿಲುಗಡೆಯಲ್ಲಿ ನಿಲ್ಲಿಸಿ, ಎರೆಡು ಮೂರು ನಿಮಿಷ ವಿಶ್ರಾಂತಿ ತೆಗೆದುಕೊಂಡು, ಮೂರು ಗುಟುಕು ನೀರು ಕುಡಿದೆ. ಸಮಾಧಾನವಾಯಿತು. ಆಗತಾನೆ ಬೆಳಕಾಗಿತ್ತು, ಸೂರ್ಯದೇವ ಇನ್ನು ಇಬ್ಬನಿಯ ಪರದೆಯ ಹಿಂದೆ ಇದ್ದ. ಹವಾಮಾನ ಇನ್ನೂ ತಂಪಾಗಿತ್ತು. 19 ಕಿ.ಮೀ ಬಾಕಿ ಇತ್ತು.

ನಾನು ಕೋಟೂರ್ ಕ್ರಾಸ್‌ನಿಂದ ಹಾದುಹೋದಾಗ, ಸೂರ್ಯ ಇಬ್ಬನಿಯಿಂದ ಹೊರಬಂದನು. ಅಧ್ಬುತವಾದ ದೃಶ್ಯ ಅದಾಗಿತ್ತು.

ಕರ್ನಾಟಕ ಹೈಕೋರ್ಟ್ - ಧಾರವಾಡ ಪೀಠದ ಹತ್ತಿರ ಹೆದ್ದಾರಿಯನ್ನು ಬಿಟ್ಟು ಸೇವಾ ರಸ್ತೆಗೆ ಹೋಗುವ ವಿಚಾರ ಬಂತು ಆದರೆ ಆ ಚಿಕ್ಕ ರಸ್ತೆಯಲ್ಲಿ ಗುದ್ದಾಡುವುದು ಬೇಡವೆಂದು ಹೆದ್ದಾರಿಯಲ್ಲೇ ಮುಂದುವರೆದೆ. ಹೆದ್ದಾರಿಯು ಹೆಚ್ಚು ಸುರಕ್ಷಿತ ಮತ್ತು ವೇಗವಾಗಿ  ಸಾಗಬಹುದು. ಧಾರವಾಡ ಬಸ್-ಸ್ಟ್ಯಾಂಡ್ ಹತ್ತಿರ ಸತತ ಟ್ರಾಫಿಕ್ ಗದ್ದಲವಿರುದು ಆ ಕಾರಣದಿಂದ, ಪೆಪ್ಸಿ ಫ್ಯಾಕ್ಟರಿ ಕ್ರಾಸಲ್ಲಿ ಮುಖ್ಯ ರಸ್ತೆಯನ್ನು ಬಿಟ್ಟು ಒಳಗಿನ ರಸ್ತೆ ಹಿಡಿದೆ. ಪೊಲೀಸ್ ಕ್ವಾರ್ಟರ್ಸ್ ಮೈದಾನದ ಹತ್ತಿರ ಕಾಲುಗಳು ಹಾಡಲಾರಂಭಿಸಿದವು. ಮೈದಾನದ ಅಂಚಿನ ಬಳಿ ನಿಲ್ಲಿಸಿದೆ. ಭಾನುವಾರ ಬೆಳಿಗ್ಗೆ ಮೈದಾನದಲ್ಲಿ ಜನಜಂಗುಳಿಯನ್ನು ನೋಡುತ್ತಾ ನೀರು ಕುಡಿದೆ.

ಲೈನ್ ಬಜಾರ್ ಹನುಮಂತ ದರ್ಶನ ಮಾಡಿಕೊಂಡು ಮನೆಯ ಕಡೆ ಬಂದೆ. ನಮ್ಮ ಅಪಾರ್ಟ್‌ಮೆಂಟ್ ಗೇಟಿನ ಮುಂದೆ ಝಿಯೋಪೋಕ್ಸಾ ನೋಡಿದಾಗ 8-09 ಸಮಯವಾಗಿತ್ತು. 4 ಗಂಟೆ 4 ನಿಮಿಷಗಳಲ್ಲಿ 71 ಕಿ.ಮೀ! ಈ ರೈಡ್‌ನ ಸರಾಸರಿ ವೇಗವು 17.5 kmphಗೆ ಬಂದಿತು.

ಪುಷ್ಪಾ ಮತ್ತು ನಾನು ಬಿಸಿ ಚಹಾ-ಪಾರ್ಲೆಜಿ ಸೇವಿಸುತ್ತಾ ಸವಾರಿಯ ಬಗ್ಗೆ ಮಾತನಾಡಿದೆವು. ನಾನು ಒಂಟಿಯಾಗಿ ಹೊಸ ದಾಖಲೆಗಳನ್ನು ರಚಿಸುತ್ತಿದ್ದೇನೆ ಎಂದು ಪುಷ್ಪಾ ಅಸೂಯೆ ಪಟ್ಟಳು ...ಹಿ ಹಿ ಹೀ.

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Golconda fort, part-3

...continued from Golconda fort, part-2.

In the previous parts we got to see Golconda fort's main entrance known by the name Bala Hissar Darwaza. The tour begins from Bala Hissar portico which is known as the clapping portico, a proper clap from here can be heard at the summit which is 200 meters away. From the portico, tourists can take two routes, clockwise and anticlockwise. The advisable route is anticlockwise since you get to ascend via a less inclined face of Golconda hill and descend by a rather steep flight of steps which will seem  like a daunting task to most tourists. During my four visits, I've taken the anticlockwise route which first passes by military barracks & Akkanna Madanna offices. The path starts ascending passing by a water tank, Ramadasa prison, Ambarkhana, Sri Jagadamba Mahakali Mandir and lastly the Baradari at the summit. In between there are several unnamed bastions, turrets and buildings. The other path starts at a gateway and descends steeply. The flight of steps when seen from a side looks like a bridge supported on a dozen massive columns. This route was probably used as an escape route, not on a daily basis. As the path touches ground level, you enter a sprawling complex of walls, columns, arches, domes and courtyards.

These 30' walls have inbuilt water supply pipelines. Also I remember seeing wooden beams embedded into the walls, probably they are remains of a wooden staircase. Going by the height of these walls, this seems to be a multistoried palace. Probably the upper floor was wooden, so was the roof. I feel this was the Zanana, the harem building.

From the Zanana ruins we move towards another cluster of ruins which might've been royal living quarters- Rani Mahal & Dad Mahal.

Stucco artwork decor walls of a royal space. I think this coat of beige paint is recent. The original might've been colorfully painted.

One of the courtyards. In the middle there's a rectangular pit, may be a fresh water pool.

Here we have half columns. Looks like on top of the half columns stood wooden columns which in turn supported the roof. Originally all these structures- columns, arches, walls -were plastered and had a smooth shiny surface so that the interior is bright.

Now we are in the largest courtyard, as I remember. At the center is the dodecagonal stepped pool with a fountain at its center. The floral fountain seems like an alloy casting, maybe brass. This picture can't do justice this wonderful piece of art. Neither the caretakers of Golconda have done much to keep it presentable. That rubber hose dangling on it is an eyesore. This fountain was in a much better condiion during my first visit i.e. before Y2K.

We exit the palace complex and step into an open space with another view of the ruins atop the hill.

Adjoining the palace complex is an open space, maybe this was a garden once upon a time. On the western side of the space is Taramati mosque. Taramati was a dancing girl and courtesan during the seventh sultan Abdullah Qutub Shah's time. There was another girl names Premamati. It is said that both were ravishingly beautiful and often dance on ropes tied between their pavilion and the sultan's balcony.

The mosque has some delicate stucco work on its crown.

Taramati & Premamati were so close to the sultan that tombs were built over their graves which is within the Qutb Shahi Necropolis near Golconda fort. Also there's another grand structure called Taramati Baradari built on a hillock situated two kilometers away from Golconda.

Moving on, next we have a two-story structure which might've been the Nakkar Khana, the place where drums and other percussion instruments were played. It was also called as Naubat Khana.

The other side of the structure. In the background are several older structures which are part of the fortifications.

The cloudy weather of that morning was humid as well. Also with the heat radiating off these stone structures, we were tired and ended the tour.

The following picture was shot from a road passing next to the fort boundary. I think we shot this while on the way to Taramati Baradari.

Back at the parking area we inquired about the ancient Baobab tree here. We learnt that the tree was inside Naya Qila, a couple of kilometers away. We hired an autorickshaw to reach this living heritage of Hyderabad known as Hathiyan ka Jhad meaning elephant-tree. It's called so because the tree bark resembles elephant hide. This Baobab is said to be 400+ years old. A caretaker incharge of this tree told us about the hollow space in the trunk which is large enough to hold 40 men.

Besides this Baobab is a mosque known as Mulla Khayalis Masjid. It was built in the year 1569 CE by Mulla Khayali a noted courtier poet and well-known calligraphist who flourished during the reign of Sultan Ibrahim Qutub Shah.

With this we complete our tour of Golconda for the day. A few months later we visited the Qutb Shahi tombs and spent a couple of hours seeing the place in detail.

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Golconda fort, part-2

...continued from Golconda fort, part-1.

On the left of this staircase is the dungeon where a civil servant Ramadasa was imprisoned for 12 years on the charges of embezzling funds. These steps lead up to Ambarkhana the granary.

To the left of Amabarkhana is a tower with clear views of spaces on either sides, a vantage point.

Builders have utilized the natural formations to the fort's advantage. If I'm not mistaken, there's a canon on the bastion atop the rock formation. The turret has a commanding view of the northern and eastern parts of the fort and the areas beyond. The footpath zigzags leading to Sri Jagadamba Mahakali Mandir. This footpath is good for horses in dry weather.

The short flight of steps leads to Sri Jagadamba Mahakali Mandir. Never been inside the temple. I feel the deity is embossed on the boulder.

There's another set of steps which leads to a doorway beyond which is the circumambulatory path around the temple, I think. The painting of Mahakali is a superb piece of artwork. On the opposite boulder is an equally large painting of Durgadevi. Don't know why I missed capturing a picture of Durgadevi. Both paintings are eye-catching. The artist(s) have created these artworks with lots of devotion.

The twin boulders of Sri Jagadamba Mahakali Mandir.

Adjacent to Devi Mandir is the penultimate structure, Darbar hall also called Baradari. This gateway might've been elegant during its heydays. Guards would've been posted here to restrict entry only to authorized people.

The Darbar hall is a two storied structure built on a high platform. Tourists were allowed into the building earlier. I remember seeing the interior during my first two visits. For some reason entry into the building has been barred now. It's a high ceiling building with massive columns and arches. However, the building is bereft of decor.

The side walls of Baradari. The halls has large openings in it's walls allowing free flow of air and light. Hyderabad weather is mostly dry, summer days can be brutal. Thick stone walls with high roof and open windows can provide relief from cruel dry heat. To beat heat, people would definitely need water, so there has to be a source of water up here.

While the buildings at Golconda were built by Kakatiyas, Bahamanis and Qutub Shahis, there's one artifact which is relatively recent- this cast iron bench. It's a perfect bench for warm weather conditions provided it's placed in shade. The bench features Nizam logo on the backrest. Similar benches can be seen at Chowmahalla Palace complex which is situated close to Charminar. I've not dedicated a post to the palace but the related post Cannons of Chowmahalla palace should be interesting.

View of the ruins below.. the palaces, mosques, stables, courtyards, armory, fortified walls and what not.

View of the northern path as we take the southern path.

This gateway is the beginning of the steep steps. One needs to be careful on rainy days.. one misstep could end up in a disaster.

The path has several stages connected by steep & narrow steps. Looking back at the Baradari and the massive rock-fomation.

Some sly guides here try to bring tourists this way up. The steep steps looks pretty daunting discouraging tourists and they abort the tour at the base itself.

Side view of the staircase. It looks like a bridge supported on massive columns. The looks of this structure reminds me of structures at Bhuvanagiri fort better known by it's corrupt name Bhongir fort.

Light & shadow play inside a short tunnel connecting two levels.

Now we are on the ground level, inside one of the massive structures of the palace-courtyard complex.

During my first visit I'd noticed water pipelines built into the walls. Actually I could spot several pipelines running parallel to each other. Also there has to be a drainage system to transport sewage. The pipeline network supplied water to palaces, stables and courtyards.

Looking up again towards the summit through a gap in the ruins.

Talking about water pipeline systems, Adil Shai capital the fortified city Bijapur, and Bahamani capital Bidar's fort had advanced water supply systems. While Bidar fort is a tourist monument, Bijapur city is well occupied i.e. people live among the ruins within the fort walls. Bijapur main source of water was Bhutnal lake, for that matter even to this day it remains so. Distance between the city and lake is 5 km, a pipeline connected the two, water was supplied to the moat surrounding the fort, a dozen palaces, even mosques and homes. The city had a system to drain away excess rainwater too. In the present day, ancient underground pipelines and drainage lines were meddled badly causing water shortages and flooding during a heavy downpour.

I'll continue this tour in the following post- Golconda fort, part-3.

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Golconda fort, part-1

This particular visit to Golconda was in Oct 2014, that's almost a decade ago. It was Pushpa's first visit to Hyderabad, we decided to spend a part of a weekend seeing the magnificent ruins of Golconda. It was a partly cloudy day. We started the tour around 10AM, being a holiday we could see several groups of tourists already. All tourists have to enter the fort through the Bala Hissar Darwaza. Like most fortified gates, Golconda's main gateway is concealed behind a curtain wall, the purpose of which is to slow down enemies in case of an attack. Golconda is said to have seven other gates namely- Banjara, Fateh, Jamali, Mecca, Moti, Patancheru, and Yali. Each of these gateways are high enough to allow elephants to pass through.

This is Bala Hissar Darwaza, known for its stucco artworks depicting peacocks, lions and floral designs.

A closer look at the stucco artworks. The designs of this gateway are symmetric except for the circular floral pattern at the top. On the right we have a blank wheel with hub, perhaps that is left blank intentionally.. to ward off evil eyes or as an invitation to artists to produce a better design. I remember seeing similar lion images at Medak fort and Warangal fort which were Kakatiya power centers.

At the top are merlons and gun slots. These slots came in handy for archers too.

Close to this gateway is a board which states Golconda's brief history. Below is the transcript:

Golkonda derives its name from the Telugu word "Golla Konda" which means a shepherd's hill. Initially the fort was under the control of Kakatiyas but passed into the hands of Bahamanis in A.D.1363. After their downfall it was made capital in A.D. 1518 by Sultan Quli, the founder of the Qutub Shahi kingdom. He was succeeded by Jamshid (1543-1550), Ibrahim Qutub Shah (1550-1580), Muhammad Quli Qutub Shah (1580-1612), Sultan Muhammad Qutub Shah (1612-1626), Abdullah Qutub Shah (1626-1672).

Abul Hasan Tana Shah (1672-1687). Muhammad Quli Qutub Shah was a great patron of Telugu literature and a pioneer of Deccani literature. He built Charminar and founded the city of Hyderabad. Abul Hasan Tana Shah, the last sultan patronized a form of dance-drama, which subsequently became popular as Kuchipudi. In 1687 Aurangazeb annexed the kingdom to his Mughal empire and appointed Asif Jah who proclaimed independence as Nizam-Ul-Mulk in A.D. 1713. His successors are known as Nizams and ruled Hyderabad till 1948.

The massive fort with three-tiered fortification protected by a moat and eight entrance gates played a remarkable role in the medieval deccan. The Golkonda fort, with its impregnable citadel is characterized by armories, magazines, granaries, reservoirs, mosques and well-planned township and above all an immaculate water supply system. Some of the important structures of Golkonda include Balahissar, clapping portico, mortuary bath, Silai Khana, Nagina Bagh, Taramati mosque, guard lines, Akkanna-Madanna offices, Ramadas jail, Durbar hall, Ambar Khana, Ibrahim mosque, and Baradari on the summit.

Looking across the walls flanking Bala Hissar Darwaza, we get a glimpse of Aslah Khana, the two storied building which was the armory, the place where arms & ammunition were stored. Further in the background, higher up are the minars of Darbar hall building.

The inside of Bala Hissar. As mentioned earlier, this gateway is high & wide enough for fully grown elephants. The pair of swing doors are said to be made of teak wood.

A closer look at the doors reinforced with steel plates, bars and studs. The reinforcement slows down battering ram attacks. Also they deter ramming with elephants.

A map of Golconda with an index of spots to see has been posted inside the portico. This information is helpful to tourists. So, here's what to see inside Golconda Purana Qila:

1. Clapping Portico
2. Mortuiry Bath
3. Nagina Bagh
4. Murda Gate
5. Αkkanna-Madanna Offices
6. Aslah Khana
7. Rangeen Mahal
8. Nakkar Khana
9. Taramathi Mosque
10. Bhagmathi Palace
11. Dad Mahal
12. Rani Mahal
13. Kilwat
14. Zanana Dressing Hall
15. Zanana Mosque
16. Zanana Body Guards
17. Ramdas Prison
18. Ambar Khana / Granary
19. Ibrahim Mosque
20. Devi temple
21. Darbar Hall (Baradari)
22. Camel Stable
23. Roti Khana
24. Dhobhi Ghat

This is one of the views from the clapping portico. This is where most guides hang around to hook tourists. The first thing they will demonstrate is acoustics of this fort. The guide will clap in a rapid succession and wait for a response from another guide at the summit. Apparently, clapping signals were used to communicate between the guards posted at this gate and the summit. From the portico tourists usually take right turn and proceed towards Mortuary Bath, Nagina Bagh, Army barracks which includes Αkkana-Madanna offices. However, some people take left towards Aslah Khana, the arsenal and proceed towards the palace complex.

Entry into the Aslah is out of bounds for regular tourists, maybe VIPs are allowed. Inside the building is a collection of canons, canon balls, and a pair of punt guns. The punt guns is a star attraction for those with a flair for guns.

The arsenal includes canons of various sizes, Here we can see both stone balls and steel balls.

We chose to take right from the portico and step into the aisle between two long low buildings- military barracks and maybe horse stables too.

The arched hall is purely functional, made to last centuries, capable protecting men, material and animals from enemy attacks & nature's forces.

Some arches, columns and portions of roof are gone. ASI restoration work has preserved these buildings from further deterioration. The upper floors of this building probably Akkanna and Madanna offices. It is said that Akkanna and Madanna were two brothers who were close aides of Abul Hasan Qutb Shah in the XVII Century. The brothers helped the Shah to gain power and served as ministers under him. Incidentally there's a historic spot named Akkanna Madanna caves in Vijayawada. It's not clear how the caves excavated during Chalukyan time i.e. VII Century came to be named after these two brothers.

During my first and second visits (early 2000s) here I remember seeing the iron weight of Golconda in here (see inset). This iron block weighing around 150 kg was used to test candidates' strength before recruiting them to the Shahi army.

At the end of the barracks starts the staircase, it zig-zags it up the hill to the summit. The eastern slop of this hill is almost completely covered in fortified structures... walls, bastions, stairs, stepped wells, shelters, etc.

On the left of the steps is a water body, not sure if it's a well or just a storage tank.

View of the ruins from about three-fourth way up the hill. Panning to the right here...

...Ramadasa prison comes into view. The building with a stepped roof and single door is the dungeon which kept Ramadasa imprisoned. I think Ramadasa was a relative of Akkanna and Madanna, apparently he was in charge of tax collection. He was charged with embezzling funds, incarcerated and released 12 years later when two young boys paid up money owed to the treasury. The building has only one door, and only one hole in it's roof for light and air. During the imprisonment, Ramadasa is said to have prayed for his release and sculpted images of Hindu gods on a rock. The images have survived to this day and revered by local people.

From the prison to the summit is a short climb which will be covered in the following post- Golconda fort, part-2.

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