This particular visit to Golconda was in Oct 2014, that's almost a decade ago. It was Pushpa's first visit to Hyderabad, we decided to spend a part of a weekend seeing the magnificent ruins of Golconda. It was a partly cloudy day. We started the tour around 10AM, being a holiday we could see several groups of tourists already. All tourists have to enter the fort through the Bala Hissar Darwaza. Like most fortified gates, Golconda's main gateway is concealed behind a curtain wall, the purpose of which is to slow down enemies in case of an attack. Golconda is said to have seven other gates namely- Banjara, Fateh, Jamali, Mecca, Moti, Patancheru, and Yali. Each of these gateways are high enough to allow elephants to pass through.
This is Bala Hissar Darwaza, known for its stucco artworks depicting peacocks, lions and floral designs.
A closer look at the stucco artworks. The designs of this gateway are symmetric except for the circular floral pattern at the top. On the right we have a blank wheel with hub, perhaps that is left blank intentionally.. to ward off evil eyes or as an invitation to artists to produce a better design. I remember seeing similar lion images at Medak fort and Warangal fort which were Kakatiya power centers.
At the top are merlons and gun slots. These slots came in handy for archers too.
Close to this gateway is a board which states Golconda's brief history. Below is the transcript:
Golkonda derives its name from the Telugu word "Golla Konda" which means a shepherd's hill. Initially the fort was under the control of Kakatiyas but passed into the hands of Bahamanis in A.D.1363. After their downfall it was made capital in A.D. 1518 by Sultan Quli, the founder of the Qutub Shahi kingdom. He was succeeded by Jamshid (1543-1550), Ibrahim Qutub Shah (1550-1580), Muhammad Quli Qutub Shah (1580-1612), Sultan Muhammad Qutub Shah (1612-1626), Abdullah Qutub Shah (1626-1672).
Abul Hasan Tana Shah (1672-1687). Muhammad Quli Qutub Shah was a great patron of Telugu literature and a pioneer of Deccani literature. He built Charminar and founded the city of Hyderabad. Abul Hasan Tana Shah, the last sultan patronized a form of dance-drama, which subsequently became popular as Kuchipudi. In 1687 Aurangazeb annexed the kingdom to his Mughal empire and appointed Asif Jah who proclaimed independence as Nizam-Ul-Mulk in A.D. 1713. His successors are known as Nizams and ruled Hyderabad till 1948.
The massive fort with three-tiered fortification protected by a moat and eight entrance gates played a remarkable role in the medieval deccan. The Golkonda fort, with its impregnable citadel is characterized by armories, magazines, granaries, reservoirs, mosques and well-planned township and above all an immaculate water supply system. Some of the important structures of Golkonda include Balahissar, clapping portico, mortuary bath, Silai Khana, Nagina Bagh, Taramati mosque, guard lines, Akkanna-Madanna offices, Ramadas jail, Durbar hall, Ambar Khana, Ibrahim mosque, and Baradari on the summit.
Looking across the walls flanking Bala Hissar Darwaza, we get a glimpse of Aslah Khana, the two storied building which was the armory, the place where arms & ammunition were stored. Further in the background, higher up are the minars of Darbar hall building.
The inside of Bala Hissar. As mentioned earlier, this gateway is high & wide enough for fully grown elephants. The pair of swing doors are said to be made of teak wood.
A closer look at the doors reinforced with steel plates, bars and studs. The reinforcement slows down battering ram attacks. Also they deter ramming with elephants.
- Clapping Portico
- Mortuiry Bath
- Nagina Bagh
- Murda Gate
- Αkkanna-Madanna Offices
- Aslah Khana
- Rangeen Mahal
- Nakkar Khana
- Taramathi Mosque
- Bhagmathi Palace
- Dad Mahal
- Rani Mahal
- Kilwat
- Zanana Dressing Hall
- Zanana Mosque
- Zanana Body Guards
- Ramdas Prison
- Ambar Khana / Granary
- Ibrahim Mosque
- Devi temple
- Darbar Hall (Baradari)
- Camel Stable
- Roti Khana
- Dhobhi Ghat
This is one of the views from the clapping portico. This is where most guides hang around to hook tourists. The first thing they will demonstrate is acoustics of this fort. The guide will clap in a rapid succession and wait for a response from another guide at the summit. Apparently, clapping signals were used to communicate between the guards posted at this gate and the summit. From the portico tourists usually take right turn and proceed towards Mortuary Bath, Nagina Bagh, Army barracks which includes Αkkana-Madanna offices. However, some people take left towards Aslah Khana, the arsenal and proceed towards the palace complex.
Entry into the Aslah is out of bounds for regular tourists, maybe VIPs are allowed. Inside the building is a collection of canons, canon balls, and a pair of punt guns. The punt guns is a star attraction for those with a flair for guns.
The arsenal includes canons of various sizes, Here we can see both stone balls and steel balls.
We chose to take right from the portico and step into the aisle between two long low buildings- military barracks and maybe horse stables too.
The arched hall is purely functional, made to last centuries, capable protecting men, material and animals from enemy attacks & nature's forces.
Some arches, columns and portions of roof are gone. ASI restoration work has preserved these buildings from further deterioration. The upper floors of this building probably Akkanna and Madanna offices. It is said that Akkanna and Madanna were two brothers who were close aides of Abul Hasan Qutb Shah in the XVII Century. The brothers helped the Shah to gain power and served as ministers under him. Incidentally there's a historic spot named Akkanna Madanna caves in Vijayawada. It's not clear how the caves excavated during Chalukyan time i.e. VII Century came to be named after these two brothers.
During my first and second visits (early 2000s) here I remember seeing the iron weight of Golconda in here (see inset). This iron block weighing around 150 kg was used to test candidates' strength before recruiting them to the Shahi army.
At the end of the barracks starts the staircase, it zig-zags it up the hill to the summit. The eastern slop of this hill is almost completely covered in fortified structures... walls, bastions, stairs, stepped wells, shelters, etc.
On the left of the steps is a water body, not sure if it's a well or just a storage tank.
View of the ruins from about three-fourth way up the hill. Panning to the right here...
...Ramadasa prison comes into view. The building with a stepped roof and single door is the dungeon which kept Ramadasa imprisoned. I think Ramadasa was a relative of Akkanna and Madanna, apparently he was in charge of tax collection. He was charged with embezzling funds, incarcerated and released 12 years later when two young boys paid up money owed to the treasury. The building has only one door, and only one hole in it's roof for light and air. During the imprisonment, Ramadasa is said to have prayed for his release and sculpted images of Hindu gods on a rock. The images have survived to this day and revered by local people.
From the prison to the summit is a short climb which will be covered in the following post- Golconda fort, part-2.
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